In the town of Sopot, Poland, less than a century ago, a poignant tragedy unfolded involving Freidel, an Orthodox young woman and daughter of Rabbi Shmuel. She found love with a young officer in the Polish army, much to her parents' disapproval. Desperate to separate the lovers, her parents arranged an engagement with a yeshiva boy from their community. On the eve of the engagement ceremony, after the guests had departed, Freidel tragically ended her life by consuming cyanide, which had been provided by her beloved Polish officer

News of Freidel's death reverberated throughout Sopot. Upon learning of his beloved's demise, the officer, stricken with grief, also ingested the poison he had given her, succumbing on the spot

This heartbreaking episode, a real event and not a tale akin to Romeo and Juliet, unfolded in the historical backdrop of Sopot, situated close to the city of Gdansk. My journey to Gdansk wasn't prompted by tragedy but rather by a celebration of life—a quest intertwined with the teachings of the book "Chayey Adam" by Rabbi Avraham Danzig, who resided in the city known as Danzig

Gdansk played a pivotal role in World War II, witnessing its onset when a German warship bombed the port on September 1, 1939, leading to the city's occupation. My arrival in Gdansk, aboard the Costa Pacifica as part of the "Kosherica" company's cruise, echoed the historical significance of this port city

When Poland gained independence after World War I, there was a problem exporting goods because Poland did not have a port. So they decided to build a port in a small village near Gdansk called Gadanya. The small village grew, connecting with the nearby city of Gdansk and the city of Sopot. Together they are called "Tricity

World War II started here in Gdansk. On September 1, 1939, a German warship bombed the port of Gdansk on the Westphalia platform, and occupied the city. Through this port I also arrived in Gdansk as part of the Cruise of "Kosherica" company, on board of the ship Costa Pacifica

Despite the devastation it faced during the war, Gdansk emerged as one of Poland's most breathtaking cities, if not all of Europe. Its reconstruction meticulously restored the 17th-century architectural charm that defines its streets. The vividly painted houses of the Old City exude a unique beauty and allure, inviting me to wander through its narrow alleys and streets, marveling at their facades. The experience was so captivating that I found myself admiring them until my neck nearly grew stiff. And if ever feeling overwhelmed by bustling pedestrian streets, retreating to the quieter, adjacent alleys offered solace

the old City

To reach the Old City, follow the skyline until you spot the tallest building, a striking red brick structure that once served as Europe's first prison during Napoleon's era. Part of the city's original wall, it now houses the Museum of Amber

Opposite this prison tower stands the magnificent city gate. Not long ago, tragedy struck this spot when the mayor of Gdansk was fatally attacked in the square between the tower and the gate. Inside the gateways, poignant images depict the ruins left behind by Russian bombings. Stepping out from the gate leads you to Dlugou Street, translated as "the long street," the perfect starting point for exploring Gdansk

A highlight within the Old City is the former town hall, transformed into a museum of history. Above its entrance gate proudly sits a stone slab bearing the city's emblem: two crosses and a royal crown, held by two lions. Curiously, these lions gaze in the same direction—toward the city gate—rather than at each other, a departure from typical symbolisms seen in Torah arks and similar emblems. Local lore jests that these lions await a day when a prince will unite Poles and Germans, prompting them to turn the other way

The town hall boasts an observation tower offering sweeping views of the city. While the ascent entails a daunting 10-story staircase (sans elevator), it's a highly recommended endeavor for the more adventurous visitor. Adjacent to the town hall lies a spacious square adorned with a fountain featuring a Neptune statue, an iconic symbol of Gdansk

Nearby, a glass cabinet showcases a bulky measuring instrument—a relic once utilized by Daniel Fahrenheit, the physicist renowned for inventing the temperature measurement system bearing his name. Born in Gdansk before relocating to Germany, Fahrenheit remains a source of pride for the city. His childhood home now serves as a revered tourist attraction

One of the most picturesque streets, ulica Mariacka, charms pedestrians with its array of stalls vending amber jewelry, yet another symbol synonymous with the city. Notably, unique gutter endings culminate in stone dragon head figurines that spout rainwater—referred to as "gargoyles" locally

Veering off the main pedestrian Ulica Długa within the Old City leads to a house adorned with graffiti inscribed in Yiddish, Hebrew, and Latin letters

This historic building once housed the Jewish theater from 1900 to 1938. A memorial plaque within honors Hillel Zweig, a prominent figure in the Jewish theater

Its address: Sleroka 82

Traversing the city, the Motlawa River graces both sides with scenic promenades. Along the riverbanks, numerous cafes and restaurants thrive amidst picturesque houses. Two antique-styled ships offer tourists a delightful two-hour cruise complete with refreshments and informative commentary on the sights along the way

 

The Jewish points

Jewish history within Danzig/Gdansk traces back to the 15th century, marked by restrictions on Jewish residence in the region until 1814. Upon the removal of these restrictions, numerous Jews migrated here, including esteemed rabbis like Rabbi Avraham Hacohen, author of "Uri Veyishyi," and Rabbi Meir Posner, author of "Beyt Meir" In 1837, Rabbi Yisrael Lifshitz, renowned for the commentary "Tiferet Israel" on the Mishnayos, assumed the rabbinate in Danzig

         

My daily study of 'Mishna Yomit' often references "Tiferet Israel." It was only upon my arrival in Gdansk that I discovered this revered interpretation was penned here

During the Russian pogroms, Danzig became a crucial stop for Jews en route to America, with some choosing to remain. Between the World Wars, approximately ten thousand Jews resided in Gdansk. In 1930, the Beytar movement established an office here, drawing visits from Zionist leaders like Ze'ev Jabotinsky and David Ben Gurion before the 18th Zionist Congress

Following the Nazi ascension, most Jews departed, leaving only 1,600 by 1939. Tragically, in March 1941, all remaining Jews were deported to German death camps

Danzig was once a significant center influencing global Jewish culture. Despite this rich heritage, today's Gdansk holds little of its former Yiddishkeit cultural abundance. Several synagogues thrived before the Holocaust; however, only one remains active now. An annual Jewish cultural festival in September commemorates this legacy

The synagogues

One notable synagogue stood where the Shakespearean theater now resides, with a recent monument erected at its former entrance spot. This monument, a bronze replica, commemorates the Great Synagogue's legacy, demolished by Nazi Germans in May and June 1939

Address: Boguslawskiego 1

On the stone stage on which the synagogue model stands are engraved explanations and verses in various languages:       i

Here stood the Great Synagogue, which was opened on 15.09.1887, initiated by the leaders of the Gdansk Synagogue, Gustav Davidson and Rabbi Kusman Werner. The Prayer Home of the Jews of Gdansk, the symbol of their unity and presence in Gdansk, was demolished in May and June 1939 by Nazi Germans

During the Holocaust, the Nazis demolished the abandoned synagogue. After the war, the municipalities considered rebuilding it. But there was no Jewish community anymore to utilize it. The lot remained vacant for many years, and finally they built on the field the black building of the Shakespeare Theater

Another memorial of the synagogue was made on the pavement and on the road that was paved in the lot where the synagogue stood before. Black stones were imprinted among the white cobblestones exactly where the synagogue walls once stood. It is nice to step inside this frame, close our eyes, and imagine the walls that stood here in the glory of the synagogue

Another tribute lies on the pavement, marked with black stones where the synagogue's walls once stood—a poignant reminder of its past glory

In 1938, the Jewish community sold the synagogue to fund the "Kinder Transport," rescuing around ten thousand Jewish children from Gdansk and other European cities, sending them to England and safer havens

A moving tribute by artist Frank Meisler near Glowni railway station commemorates the Kinder Transport, depicting five children with suitcases, symbolizing those saved, including Meisler himself, separated forever from their parents during the Holocaust

Photo: Carmit Weiss, GOTRAVEL

The "New Synagogue," built in 1927, holds historical significance as Rabbi Avraham Danzig's youthful place of worship. Spared from demolition by serving as a German warehouse during WWII, it later became a music school and, in the 1990s, returned to the Jewish community. Today, it houses communal offices and remains an active synagogue

Part of his importance stems from the fact that Rabbi Avraham Danzig prayed there in his youth, and part of the period in which he wrote the Halachic books "Chayey Adam". After moving from Danzig to Vilnius, he wrote more books like "Human Wisdom", "Binat Adam", "Toldoth Adam" and more. One of his most important writings is the book "Sha'arei Tzedek", which deals with the mitzvot that depend on the land

This site features Judaica artifacts found in Gdansk and hosts exhibitions showcasing the city's Hebrew-printed books, halachic texts, and commentaries penned by Danzig's rabbis

Every Saturday there are Minyan prayers in the synagogue, and weekdays conferences and lectures on Jewish sunjects

Address: Partyzantów 7

Despite its historical value, the synagogue faced an unfortunate incident last Yom Kippur when a stone thrown by an unidentified individual shattered a window, narrowly avoiding casualties. The mayor condemned the act and apologized to the Jewish community

Gdansk Shipyards

A visit to Gdansk remains incomplete without exploring its renowned shipyards. In the 1980s, Lech Walesa and the 'Solidarity' movement drew global attention here. Walesa, a shipyard electrician dismissed from his job, organized a non-violent protest that led to widespread factory shutdowns, pressuring the Soviet government to concede to workers' demands. This historic event marked a turning point, leading to the collapse of the communist bloc in the following decade

A monument outside the shipyards commemorates those who lost their lives in the demonstrations, immortalizing the success of the 'Solidarity' movement

 

The Jewish cemetery

The Jewish cemeteries in Gdansk County carry a storied history, with one situated in the resort town of Sopot near Gdansk, once home to a thriving Jewish community. Established in 1913, this cemetery served until the Holocaust, but today, deciphering the identities of those buried beneath the tombstones proves challenging. Over time, iron or marble plates detailing the deceased have been stolen by vandals, leaving the tombstones bare. Yet, a few have undergone recent renovation, with added inscriptions, preserving a fragment of their history

Amidst this cemetery lies a peculiar grave, distinct from the others. Enclosed by a low fence, adorned with fresh bouquets and lit candles, it stands out, meticulously tended compared to the surrounding neglected plots

What's intriguing is that there are no Jews residing in Sopot today, prompting curiosity about who tends to this singular grave

This grave marks the resting place of "Freidel Bat Rabbi Shmuel," whose tragic tale was recounted earlier. Despite her Orthodox upbringing, Freidel's forbidden love with a Polish officer led to her engagement against her will, culminating tragically in her suicide using cyanide. Jewish tradition dictated her burial "outside the fence," evident as the cemetery's final resting place. Her father, consumed by remorse, erected a lavish tombstone, marking her grave

According to Jewish law, suicide Freidel was buried "outside the fence". Indeed, we can see this is the last grave in the cemetery. Her father, Rabbi Shmuel, was filled with grief and regretted his intervention in his daughter's love life. On her grave he built a  luxurious tombstone, and delineated it

Surprisingly, this grave has become a focal point for local young couples. Even non-Jewish romantic pairs visit, often lighting candles or leaving flowers. To me, it's a must-visit for any Israeli romantic tourist, located at Malczewskiego 20

While tourists flock to Verona's fictitious "Romeo and Juliet balcony," Poland offers a genuine site—a testament to a real tragedy—in Sopot's Jewish cemetery

Sopot itself is a resort town deserving of exploration, with its grandeur, extensive pier stretching into the Baltic Sea, and well-maintained streets dotted with numerous hotels

Renowned Gdansk author Paweł Marek Huelle delves into the interwar period with two compelling books, notably "Castorp" and "Who was David Weiser?" The former details Jewish life post-war, offering an enriching prelude or accompaniment to a visit to Gdansk. Additionally, Günter Grass's "The Tin Drum" vividly portrays life in the city and is another recommended read, translated into Hebrew. These literary works added depth and spirituality to my journey and might enhance yours too

After the trip to Gdansk, I identify with one quote from the book Castro: "The city that has not yet woken up, but has already dipped in the sunlight, offered him new horizons, opened him to unfamiliar gates and secret passages". This is how I felt when I said goodbye to Gdansk