For those seeking new destinations and thrilling adventures, the Bicol Islands in the eastern part of the Philippines are a hidden gem worth exploring. While popular among travelers from Asia, these islands remain relatively unknown to European and Israeli tourists. Having recently embarked on a familiarization tour organized by the Philippine Tourism Office, I came back captivated and brimming with excitement. I now affectionately refer to these islands not by the name "Bicol", but rather as "Be Cool," a moniker that holds true to their essence.

A local proverb aptly states, "In the Philippines, the land is adorned with beauty, and the people possess an inherent kindness and warmth. To maintain balance, the gods created the typhoons to temper these abundant advantages." This adage resonated deeply during my visit, as I witnessed both the breathtaking landscapes and the resilience of the locals. Year after year, they endure a barrage of typhoons from August to November, which tear through roofs, demolish straw houses, and unleash devastating floods. Astonishingly, the locals face these destructive forces with a remarkable sense of calmness. They have grown accustomed to the shelters they must seek an hour before the typhoon arrives, and following its passage, they swiftly rebuild their homes with new straw roofs within a day or two

Allow me to recount the wonders that left an indelible mark on my soul during my journey through Bicol:   I

 The Majestic Mayon Volcano

Nestled near the capital city of Legazpi, this active volcano is accessible via a one-hour flight from Manila. As our plane prepared to land, the volcano greeted us with a timely eruption, as if beckoning us toward its enchanting presence. Mayon Volcano, aptly named "beautiful" in the local Filipino language, is a sight to behold. With its symmetrical slopes rising high above the flat terrain, it resembles an equilateral triangle, standing tall and proud. While most volcanoes around the world blend seamlessly into the surrounding mountain ranges, Mayon stands singularly, leaving no room for doubt about its volcanic nature. Bicol is also home to two other active volcanoes, Bulusan and Iriga, though they pale in comparison to the magnificence of Mayo

Mount Mayon offers numerous observation points, including the picturesque promenade of Legazpi, located along the ocean's edge. Another notable viewpoint can be found within the grounds of the Draga Church. Built around 1500 using basalt stones and white sea sand, the church's sturdy walls, adorned with intricate carvings, pale in comparison to the breathtaking beauty of Mount Mayon, visible from the entrance steps and parking lot

 Diving with Whales

Donsol Bay, a sanctuary to majestic whale sharks, comes alive from March to June. These gentle giants gracefully navigate the waters, unbothered by human presence, provided we respect their space and refrain from touching them. Several tourism operators offer boat trips to the bay, allowing visitors to dive and swim alongside these magnificent creatures. This profound encounter with the largest fish in the world offers a fresh perspective, reminding us of our small place in the grand tapestry of creation. It's akin to riding a bicycle next to a mammoth truck. I've dedicated a separate article to this awe-inspiring experience, which can be found at the provided link

For me, the allure of the whales and the splendor of Mount Mayon alone make a journey to the Philippines worthwhile. However, let us not forget the additional marvels that await us in Bicol

 Conquering the Lava Wall on ATV

One of the most exhilarating experiences in Bicol is an ATV tour, where visitors can venture along various trails up Mount Mayon. Accompanied by a guide, we embarked on an adventure through a valley adorned with shallow water. We eagerly navigated the flowing channel, sometimes driving through it, and occasionally splashing along its edges. After a thrilling half-hour ascent, we reached a refreshment station. Unfortunately, due to the recent eruption, we were forbidden from venturing further towards the crater's edge, yet in calmer times, one can continue along the mountain paths, almost to the very summit

From the station, we embarked on a 400-meter trek along the valley channel. And there, before our eyes, a colossal black wall loomed large. Reminiscent of the Western Wall, this immense structure is a stark contrast, engulfed in darkness. As we draw closer, we realize it surpasses the proportions of the Western Wall in both height and width. Standing approximately 40 meters tall (more than double the height of our revered landmark) and stretching nearly 500 meters wide (compared to the Kotel Western Wall's 60 meters), this lava wall is an extraordinary sight. Unlike the Western Wall's meticulously carved hewn stones, this natural phenomenon showcases massive rocks precariously stacked upon one another, forming a sharp slope. Ascending the wall's steep trail allows us to glimpse into the heart of its power

In 2006, during a tremendous eruption, Mount Mayon unleashed a two-month-long flow of lava, cascading down its slopes. The intense heat incinerated everything in its path, leaving behind a river of searing red and orange hues. Eventually, the river solidified, transforming into enormous black rocks. The lava journeyed for six kilometers before halting at this specific location. The result is the breathtaking lava wall we now stand upon. From this vantage point, we can witness the sheer scale of the eruption, as the tops of towering coconut trees peek out beneath us, reminding us that even these tall sentinels were once engulfed in molten lava. Nature's might unfolds before our eyes, revealing the colossal force that flowed like a river, standing as tall as an eight to ten-story building

Look ahead, and we behold the expanse of the lava river, stretching as far as the eye can see, snaking through the forest like a bustling interstate. Its width extends far beyond a few lanes, spanning half a kilometer. The sheer magnitude of this sight is difficult to fathom, serving as a humbling reminder of our insignificance against the vast power of nature

Returning from the lava wall can be accomplished either by retracing our steps on foot or utilizing the long serpentine path that leads to the refreshment station, where our ATVs patiently wait

Bicol surpasses expectations, delivering an enchanting blend of natural wonders and the unwavering spirit of its residents. Mount Mayon's grandeur, swimming alongside gentle whale sharks, and conquering the lava wall on an ATV are just a glimpse of the many "bonus" attractions that await you in this captivating destination

 The city of Legazpi

Legazpi is the capital of Bicol. It lies on ALBAY Bay. A Spanish general gave it his name. The land is green and black. Green from the coconut and banana trees and the jungle. Black from the lava stones. It is like the Golan Heights. The houses are low. The streets have no sidewalks or narrow ones. Wires hang from the poles. It is hot. People walk with umbrellas for the sun, not the rain

There are many churches in Legazpi. Some are old and beautiful. There are monuments for the heroes of the Philippines

I saw a monument of a man with no head kneeling on his knees. A local man told me it was for the Japanese. They came in the forties and killed many people. The Filipinos hate them still. He said, “You Israelis have it easy. Hamas and ISIS are nothing. The Japanese were worse. They shot people in the streets. They cut off heads for fun. We made this monument to remember. We will not forget.” He told me more. “The Japanese had a game. They took babies from their mothers. They threw them in the air. They stabbed them with their bayonets. The one who got the baby got the mother too. If he did not like her, he could pick another girl.”        i

The Japanese killed a million Filipinos in three years. Ambassador to Israel, Nathaniel Imperial, lost half his family

In the park of Legazpi, there is an old church. Only the bell tower and some walls are left. It was built in 1587 in a town called Cagsawa (like Kfar Saba). On February 1, 1814, Mayon Volcano erupted. It was a big eruption. It covered the city and the houses with lava. Some people ran to the church. They lived. Many people stayed in their homes or in the streets. They died. The church was broken. They fixed the bell tower. The park is a memorial for the dead

Legazpi is home to about a quarter of a million permanent residents. The mayor of Legazpi says there are around another hundred thousand transient residents, mostly Americans who came to work or foreign students, with a minority being American and also Israeli Jews. Anyone staying in the Philippines for more than two months must register for security purposes. The registration forms require them to write their place of residence and their religion, which is how they identify Jews and Israelis. In Ticao, there is a research station where Tel Aviv University conducts marine research. The head of the Israeli research team has been living there for about two years, and his research assistants from Israel come for periods of two to three months, rotating among themselves

 Tours in Exotic Islands

The Philippines has more than 7,500 islands. Most are small and have no names. No one lives on them. We go to Misibis Island. It has a resort on a bay. The beach is clean and white. There are fish in the water. You can see them when you snorkel. I like it there. I do not want to leave. But we have to go to other islands

The first island is Catanawan. It has rocks and cliffs. There is a strip of sand on the front. It is soft and white. It is a dream

The second island is Catanawan Grande. It is green and beautiful. Six families live there. They are fishermen. They have huts and a well. The windows are open. There is no glass. They do not need air conditioning. The weather is good. There is no electricity or internet. They eat fish and coconuts. They are poor but happy. It is paradise. I tell the others to go on without me. I want to stay

Every island is more beautiful than the last. The third island is Matukad. It means beautiful. It has two mountains with trees. There are beaches with sand. The water is clear and blue. There are boats with bamboo. They are colorful

We see these things in pictures and on screens. But they are better in real life. There is a breeze that touches the face and the hair. The sea smells of salt and seaweed. The wind brings the smell of fruits. They grow here. Pineapple and mango. We hear the waves on the shore. They are small and quiet. Sometimes there is a boat engine. It is far away. It is peaceful and good. There are no words for it

We visit these islands. But you can visit others. There are many companies that take you there. You can go for half a day or three days. You choose what you like

The Jungles in the Sorsogon District

We are on Gota Island. This is where they film the popular TV series 'Survivor.' TV crews from Israel and worldwide come here to shoot the series, not just for viewers in Israel. In the first resort where we're staying, production crews and cameramen reside, while competitors stay in a nearby resort

The resort has 130 cabins. They are on a hillside. The cabins have two rooms and a bathroom

On TV, we see the jungle. We think the competitors have no civilization. But TV does not show us the resorts and hotels. They are comfortable and luxurious. The jungle is not far from the hotel. You can walk there in minutes. The hotels make facilities in the jungle. They want the TV people to come. They want the tourists to come too. They like the show. The tourism people make new things for the show. They give new ideas to the TV people

Sometimes the competitors go to other islands. They are small and isolated. Like the island on the logo. It is not as hard or scary as it looks on TV

The land is beautiful. The mountains are high and green. They have coconut and banana trees. And other trees. The water is blue. The sunsets are good. They make you happy

 Sumlang Lake

One of the gorgeous lakes in the Bikol region. Sumlang Lake is surrounded by green fields of rice and other vegetables, along with tall coconut trees along its shores. There's a tourist center with a non-kosher restaurant on the lake's bank. However, the restaurant also offers activities for tourists, like serene rafting on the beautiful lake. A very pleasant experience. The rafts are spacious, with comfortable seating. The lake's waters are calm and smooth as glass. Not a single ripple disturbs us. Ultimate tranquility and peace for travelers seeking respite from the hustle and bustle. A delightful stop

Japanese Tunnels

A short drive from Sumlang Lake lies the Quintuinanan Farm, with picnic areas and horse riding tours in the surrounding area. From the farm, there's a breathtaking view of Mount Mayon on one side and Albay Gulf on the other. The farm is situated on a hillside with tunnels and passages that are worth visiting. These tunnels were carved by the Japanese in the mid-20th century to hide from American soldiers patrolling the area and to ambush them as they passed by. To see the tunnels, one must descend a path along the hillside with about a hundred steps. The entrance to the tunnels is well hidden amidst vegetation. Inside, one can walk through the tunnels, seeing sleeping quarters, dining areas, and command centers. It's warm inside, with thick, humid air filling the space. It's a unique experience to get a sense of what it was like to operate in a military tunnel. Hamas in Gaza hasn't invented anything new; they just copy from others, including these tunnels. Until now, I'd only read about their tunnels, but here in Quintuinanan, I experienced firsthand what it's like to live and function in such a tunnel

Solong Eco Park

A beautiful park perfect for relaxation and picnics. A well-maintained and steep trail leads up the mountain ridge. This trail is only suitable for dedicated hikers. Upon reaching the summit, a stunning panoramic view justifies the effort of the climb. From the peak, there's no forest obstructing the view, allowing an unobstructed gaze at Mount Mayon in all its splendor. Closer by, one can see other lower ridges, including the "Chocolate Hills." These hills got their name from their chocolate-like appearance due to volcanic activity and are covered in vegetation or soil with shades of brown resembling chocolate balls. While the famous Chocolate Hills are in Bohol Island, these can also serve as a decent substitute

 Bulusan Nature Reserve

Bulusan is a volcano. It is alive. It has trees and plants on it. It has two lakes. The big one is three kilometers across. You can do things on the water. You can rent boats. There are different kinds. Rowboats, paddle boats, kayaks, and boards

Legend tells of a love story between a young officer named Bulusan and a girl named Abinai, the daughter of a very wealthy man. The father disapproved of their relationship due to their differing social statuses. The father murdered Bulusan at this spot, and from his tears, the first lake was formed. The next day, Abinai arrived at the new lake's shore, saw her beloved's body, and burst into tears

From her tears, the second lake on the mountain's summit was formed. She committed suicide by jumping into the lake, drowning within her tears

Both lakes' banks are covered with many "Turquoise Vine Trees," scientifically known as Strongylodon macrobiotic or emerald creeper jade vine. A rare plant with beautiful flowers. When two leaves are joined together, they form a heart shape, reminiscent of Bulusan and Abinai's love

You can take a boat to the second lake. There is a bridge there. It is in the trees. It is 350 meters long. It has five stations. They are high like buildings. The bridge is made of wood and ropes. It moves when you walk on it. It moves when the wind blows. It is scary at first. You have to be brave. You have to wear a harness. It is like a belt

The guides say not to look down. They say to look ahead. But I say to look around. You can see the lake and the jungle. They are beautiful. The bridge goes along the lake. It ends where we get off. The boat is there. The staff take care of it

  Surfing at Gubat Beach

Gubat Beach is in Sorsogon. It has good waves. Surfers like it. It is famous for surfing. You can stay and eat there. There are many places. They have different prices

 Public Transportation

Public transportation in the Philippines differs from the West, and it's worthwhile to try it for the experience. The buses are called "Jeepneys." Originally surplus jeeps from the American army after World War II, when the American army didn't bother transporting the jeeps back to the US, they sold them cheaply to traders upon leaving the Philippines. As traders had more jeeps than needed, they found a new use for them. They replaced the back with a longer frame and assembled a bus body onto it. These Jeepneys have been operating for 70 years. Drivers paint their buses in vibrant colors, creating a unique atmosphere in the Philippines. Jeepneys have no windows. On routes to distant areas from the city, sometimes Jeepneys get crowded, and passengers sit on the roof. Amazing

The taxis are motorcycles with a sidecar. They are called “Tricycles.” Two people sit behind the driver. Four people sit in the sidecar. They squeeze in.  amazing. You should try it

Some taxis are bicycles with a sidecar

You can also go by boat. There are many islands. Some are small. Some have villages. The boats are different sizes. Most have bamboo on the sides. There are speedboats too. We took one from Gota to Sabang. They are on the same island. But the island has mountains. The road is long. It takes four hours. The speedboat is fast. It takes an hour and a half. Some places have no road. You have to go by boat. It is good to see how they live

Around 20,000 Israelis traveled to the Philippines last year, while about 200,000 visited neighboring Thailand. Tenfold. The landscapes and prices are quite similar, so how can the difference be explained? My (non-professional) explanation is two reasons: A – Bangkok has a direct flight, and Manila doesn't. B – The second reason: Dov Kalmann. The Thai embassy was wise enough to appoint their tourism office in the hands of an Israeli lieutenant colonel, Dov Kalmann, who knew how to turn Thailand into an iconic tourism brand

The Honorary Consul of the Philippines in Israel is Mr. Boaz Waxman of 'Ophir Tours.' Two Israeli tourism companies have already established representatives in the Philippines. These are 'Flyeast,' managed by Yoav Golan, and 'Turismo Filipino,' recently acquired by the Disneyland network. Additionally, there are four Chabad Houses in the Philippines. All of these can assist us during our travels in the region

There are no kosher restaurants in the Philippines except in Chabad Houses. Further details about Judaism can be read in a separate article in this link. Nevertheless, for observant travelers, it's not difficult to manage there. Along the roadsides, there are many stalls with fruits, vegetables, and rice dishes. The rabbi told me there's no issue with uncooked rice, just to be cautious with cooked rice. Supermarkets also have kosher products

If you're among those who love to explore new places and tell yourself and your friends that you were among the first there, then this location is for you. But respect the place and the local residents. They are hospitable, the Filipinos. A local saying suggests that God created typhoons to balance the beauty of the place and its residents. We don't want them to say that God created Israelis for the same reason

Photographs by: Ori Magness Dotan, Guy Pribbs, Bastian Hansen, Yaakov Maor, and Golan Yosifon