For centuries, Hungary was an important Jewish diaspora. In Hungary, there were Hassidic courts, including the Munkacz Hasidism, Sighet, Sphinka, Tash, and the Pepah Hassidim. Some of the Jewish towns are no longer part of Hungary following the 1920 Trianon Treaty, which transferred territories from Austro-Hungary to Romania and the Czech Republic. The remnants of buildings and sites associated with these communities stand as powerful testaments to a once-thriving past

About 50 Chassidic courts were established within a radius of about 100 km from Debrecen, and now Debrecen is an exit point for Jewish trips that take half a day or a whole day to complete.  The route is about 150 kilometers long, and crosses villages and towns with large Hasidic communities and courtyards. The establishment of the "FOOTSTEPS OF THE WONDER RABBIS" tour by Hungarian tourist authorities is a commendable effort to honor and preserve this heritage. The tour's three stations – closest, most important, and most beautiful – serve as waypoints, guiding visitors through significant locations connected to the Jewish history of the region

The closest: Nagykallo (Kalib)

Nagykallo (Kalib) holds immense significance as the burial site of Rabbi Yitzhak Taub, the first Rebbe of Kalib. Located about a half hour drive from Debrecen, His blessings, including the renowned "Szól a kakas már" folklorist song, have left an indelible mark on Hungarian culture. The Rebbe's tomb, situated in a cave above an impressive 'tent,' remains a site of pilgrimage, drawing Jewish tourists who come to pay their respects, light candles, and offer prayers

   

An advanced visit in order to open the door and the gate must be arranged. The Rebbe's yahrzeit is on the seventh of Adar, which was when hundreds and thousands of Hasidim arrive by buses mainly from England, as well as from Israel, and the United States

The continuation of Kalib Hasidism in Bnei Brak and Brooklyn under the leadership of Admor Menachem Mendel Taub signifies the preservation of tradition despite the dwindling numbers of its followers. Rabbi Menachem Mendel's outreach efforts, opening Chasidut and Torah teachings to wider audiences, mark a departure from the exclusivity sometimes associated with other Amorim. Rabbi Menachem Mendel used to perform lectures and sermons throughout Israel. Also secular, he appeared before the IDF soldiers. He now often speaks and pleads at yeshivas of other Hasidism, as well as in Bnei Akiva yeshivas and Hesder yeshivas. One of his Shamashs told me that in the last fifty years, the rabbi was heard by about half a million Israelis

Almost every day, Jewish tourists come to visit the Kalib and pray in the tomb of Rabbi Yitzhak to light candles, and to lay down Kvitelach. Some of them also stay there for the weekend. The renovation of the old Yeshiva of Kalib into a hostel, offering accommodations and facilities for visitors, serves as both a tribute to the past and a space for contemporary engagement. It's a place where Jewish tourists can connect with their heritage, pray at Rabbi Yitzhak's tomb, and learn about the history of the area, including the tragic events of the Holocaust

The resilience and continuity displayed by the Jewish tourists who visit Nagykallo and the efforts to maintain these sites as cultural touchstones are a testament to the enduring legacy of these communities despite the harrowing events of the past

The narratives about these sacred sites offer profound insights into the enduring spiritual significance and cultural heritage associated with these locations

The tomb of Rabbi Yitzhak Taub in Nagykallo (Kalib) holds a revered place among both Jewish and non-Jewish communities, with belief in miracles attributed to the Rebbe persisting even after his passing. The stories of barren women seeking blessings and subsequently welcoming children, along with the instances of gratitude expressed toward the cemetery guard, echo the enduring belief in the Rebbe's spiritual influence transcending religious boundaries. The inclusivity of these miracles, extending to non-Jewish individuals, reflects a shared reverence for the Rebbe's perceived holiness

The most important: Satoraljaujhely

Satoraljaujhely (Aujhely) stands as a significant pilgrimage site, particularly due to the tomb of Rabbi Moshe Teitelbaum, a pivotal figure in Satmar Hasidism. The renovations and reverence displayed by Satmar Hasidim from the United States and Israel highlight the ongoing devotion to these historical figures and their lasting impact on Jewish culture. The annual pilgrimage during Rabbi Moshe Teitelbaum's yahrzeit underscores the massive following and reverence for his legacy. The Hasidic Dynasties was founded by Rabbi Yoel Teitelbaum of the village of Sighet, who settled in the town of Satmarnemeti, which is called "Satmar" by the Jews

The Satmar Hasidim in the United States renovated the tomb of Rabbi Moshe Teitelbaum and built a prestigious tent above it, and Judaism lovers would love to visit the tomb of one of the rabbis who has had a tremendous influence on Jewish culture

His yahrzeit takes place during the month of Tamuz, and about 500 buses arrive from all over Europe to visit during this time. On one specific day during the month of Tamuz, the number of visitors is several times greater than the number of citizens in the entire village. Therefore, the organizers restrict the visit and the pilgrimage to the grave for only a few hours, and then coordinate the arrival and departure times of buses so that there will not be more than 50 buses in the area at once.

            

The most beautiful: MAAD

In the Tokaj borvidék, famous for its quality wines, there is the village of Maad, where about 300 Jews lived until the Holocaust. In the summer of 1942, they were all concentrated in the synagogue, where they were locked for three days without food, and from there they were taken to Auschwitz. Only about 40 survived, and they all left Hungary forever. Today, there is a synagogue in Jerusalem for the ex-Maad community

The village of Maad, despite its tragic history during the Holocaust, stands as a testament to resilience and restoration. The restoration of the synagogue to its former glory, its recognition among the "100 most beautiful synagogues in the world," is a tribute to the rich cultural heritage of the local Jewish community. The transformation of the synagogue into a museum and the preservation of the yeshiva and Beit Midrash as educational and historical spaces serve as poignant reminders of the community's past and a platform for cultural preservation

          The synagogue of Maad was built in the 18th century on Táncsics utca in the Louis XVI style. This synagogue has been desolate since the Holocaust, unlike other abandoned synagogues in Europe that have become warehouses or local clubs. The synagogue was renovated and reconstructed, and opened to the public last summer. Today, he is admirable in his splendor, arousing thoughts of the cultural and physical wealth of local Jews before the Holocaust. The walls and ceilings are painted with magnificent frescoes, and the Aron-Kodesh was reconstructed with stunning carvings, and painted in the style of the beginning of the last century.

Above: The interior of the synagogue.

Below: the Holy Ark and sections of the painted ceiling

           

Behind the synagogue, there is a yeshiva and a Beit Midrash study hall. This building has also been renovated, and is now used mainly as a museum of Judaism, to which non-Jewish students from all over the region come as part of their curriculum. For Jewish visitors who have family roots in Maad or in the surrounding villages, a computer is set up with details of almost all the local Jews, in which homes they lived, and the precise location of each grave they reside in.

The Rosh Yeshiva's office has also been renovated and restored. It contains books written by rabbis who are also buried there, such as the book, "Kol Aryeh" by Rabbi Avraham Hacohen, and the book "Levush Mordechai", by Rabbi Mordechai Leib Winkler. These books were recently published in a new edition in the United States by the offspring of former Jewish villagers.

I had a very exciting experience sitting there right at Rabbi Winkler's desk, trying to learn a chapter from the book he had written on the very table I was sitting at. It was an especially empowering and unforgettable experience. And, I recommend it to anyone who is preparing to visit Maad to buy in advance one of the books that has been composed here, and to read aloud one or two pages in them.

   

Top: The book "Kol Aryeh" in an original edition and a new edition.

Below: The book "Levush Mordechai"

           

These stories reflect not just historical monuments but living legacies, fostering connections between past and present, and inviting visitors to engage with the profound cultural, spiritual, and educational heritage of these sites

The narratives about these lesser-known Jewish sites, although not as popular as the previously mentioned ones, hold significant historical and cultural importance for those seeking to explore their roots and heritage

In recent years, about 10,000 Hassidim have arrived at the end of April in honor of yahrzeit for Rabbi Sheiyele Steiner.

There is also a kosher kitchen and dining room for Jewish tourists who bring their own food and want to warm it up and eat in non-plastic plates. The building has also allocated several rooms for double occupancy and hostel rooms with 16 beds for students on an organized trip. Rooms at this hotel are furnished in the style of the beginning of the last century. A bed for the night costs only $15 per night. And of course, every weekend, the hostel is full.

     

The restoration project director is Mrs. Marianne Frank, from the "Following the Wonders Rabbis footsteps" organization. During this period, they are also working on a project to restore a kosher winery and mikveh in the village of Maad.

Nearby is the well-tended Jewish cemetery. Anyone can visit the tombstones of the village rabbis Avraham Schwartz and Mordechai Winkler.

More Jewish sites

The rabbi of Debrecen, Rabbi Asher Ehrenfeld, told me that besides the three sites recommended by the Debrecen municipality, there are other Jewish sites within an hour and a half drive from Debrecen, but are less popular. Many Jewish people are coming on a "roots trip" to see where their grandparents lived, where they prayed, and where they were buried. However, it seems that many Jewish and Israeli tourists are also interested in the existence of these sites.

Here are other Jewish sites that I recommend to those who have time to explore the area:

 Ujfeherto

Ujfeherto, known in Yiddish as "Rázpért," carries the legacy of Rabbi Shalom Eliezer Halberstam, a revered figure in the Tzanz Hasidic dynasty. Despite the village's omission from the Hungarian Ministry of Tourism's recommendations, it holds immense significance for followers of the Tzanz Hasidic tradition, particularly due to its historical ties to Rabbi Shalom Eliezer Halberstam, son of the founder of the Tzans Hasidism. While the village and its once-thriving community were tragically destroyed during the Holocaust, the memory of the Admor's teachings and influence persists among the Tzanz Hasidim, scattered across various regions, especially in Israel, England, Belgium, and the USA

     

The cemetery in Ujfeherto/Rázpért serves as a place of pilgrimage for Tzanz Hasidim and others interested in the world of Hasidism, where followers pray, light candles, and pay respects to their ancestors. Although Rabbi Shalom Eliezer Halberstam's grave cannot be found, the cemetery remains a symbol of the spiritual connection to the Tzanz Hasidic legacy

The absence of Rabbi Shalom Eliezer Halberstam's grave, as he was tragically murdered and cremated in Birkenau, stands as a stark reminder of the atrocities of the Holocaust. However, the cemetery in Ratzfert holds the resting place of many Jews, including Rabbi Herzka Halevi Zilberman, a disciple of Rabbi Chaim of Tzanz. The descendants of Rabbi Herzka Halevi Zilberman maintain the cemetery and have established facilities nearby, such as a Mikve, to accommodate visitors paying homage to their forefathers

These sites, though less frequented by tourists, represent vital connections to the history and spiritual legacy of the Tzanz Hasidic dynasty, offering a glimpse into the world of Hasidism and serving as places of reverence and remembrance for those seeking to honor their ancestry

Olaszliszka

The narratives of Olaszliszka and Erdbbénye highlight the poignant history of Jewish communities in these villages, emphasizing both tragedy and preservation of memory

Olaszliszka, once home to about 400 Jews, notably had Rabbi Tzvi Hirsch Friedman as its spiritual leader. His scholarly contributions and influence on Hasidism attracted followers from various regions, fostering the growth of Hasidic communities in Hungary. The village's name, meaning "Italian Lilac," derived from the residents' involvement in the Italian winemaking business. Tragically, the Holocaust led to the deportation of the entire Jewish population, and the Great Synagogue lay abandoned and later destroyed. The renovation efforts by the United Jewish Communities in Hungary, while not reconstructing the synagogue, serve as a powerful memorial. The symbolic elements, such as the engraved map of towns with Jewish communities and the names of deported families, pay homage to the lives lost during that dark period. The artistic beauty and respectful illumination of the site create a space for remembrance and reflection

The reconstructions did not rebuild the walls or erect a new roof, as they only cleaned and reinforced the remaining walls. On the entrance wall, they drew a map with the names of the towns in the Tokaj district where there were several Jewish communities. On the inner side of the entrance wall are the names of 63 Jewish families who were deported from the village of Olaszliszka during the Holocaust and taken to the death camps.

In the eastern wall, in place of the curtain on the Ark, a stone inscribed in Hebrew and Hungarian said: "And Moses wrote this Torah and gave to the priests the sons of Levi who carried the ark of the covenant of the LORD and all the elders of Israel. And now write this song to you, and teach the children of Israel to speak in their mouths, so that this song may be for me forever in the children of Israel. "

In addition, on the floor of the synagogue, where the Bimah was to be read in the Torah, they erected a stone platform. At night, the place is illuminated by dim lighting from the bottom up, in a way that awakens much awe and respect.

The site is spectacular in its artistic beauty. Opened to the public last summer. (Photo: Andre Meyer).

The upkeep of the Jewish cemetery in Liska, where Rabbi Zvi Hirsch Friedman is buried, reflects the reverence of Satmar Hasidim from the United States, who have renovated his tombstone and built a tent over his grave. This site draws visitors, especially during Rabbi Friedman's yahrzeit, symbolizing the enduring connection and respect for his legacy

             

Rabbi Friedman's grave in front and back

Liska

Erdbbénye, once home to a small Jewish community destroyed in the Holocaust, is the focus of a future renovation project by Marianne Frank and the "Following the Wonders Rabbis." The restoration of the village's mikveh, constructed over a river's stream, serves as both a monument to the Jewish community and a tribute to the victims of the Holocaust. Despite the absence of Jews in the village today, this restoration project aims to preserve the historical and cultural significance of the mikveh, fostering remembrance and awareness of the village's Jewish past

          

The ruined building was the village mikveh. Looking outside and inside

Bodrogkereszteur 

 The rebuilt rebbe's home

   

The gravestone on his grave

  One of the leaders of Hungary was Rabbi Shiayle (Yeshaya) Steiner, the founder of the Chassidic sect of Kerestir. He served as the trustee of the home of Rabbi Zvi Hirsch of Liska, and the disciple of Rabbi Chaim Halberstam of Tzanz. After the death of his teacher, Rabbi Tzvi Hirsch, he became famous and many Hassidim came to him. His grandson, Rabbi Rubin of America, renovated his grandfather's grave and built a huge tent there, and also at a mikveh nearby. Rabbi Rubin also purchased the residence of his grandfather, the Admor, and another house next to him, and established a synagogue for Jews coming to stay there every Shabbat.

These sites, though marked by tragedy, serve as poignant reminders of the vibrant Jewish life that once thrived in these villages. The restoration efforts not only honor the memory of those lost but also stand as testaments to the enduring legacy and cultural heritage of these communities

How do you get to these sites?

  • The cheapest – Public transportation, but it is not recommended for those who do not speak Hungarian. Most of the villagers in and around Debrecen do not speak English or any other language but Hungarian.
  • The most expensive – Hire a taxi for the day.
  • The most convenient – Hire a Yiddish-speaking driver from the Jewish community in Debrecen. In the community building in Debrecen, there are pensioners who Rabbi Ehrenfeld guided where the graves of the righteous are, and they are willing to transport Jewish tourists to any Jewish site. It is advisable to order a driver two weeks in advance. The fee is lower for hiring a driver than for renting a taxi for the whole day.
  • You can also rent a car. At the Jewish community offices, you can get guidance and precise reference for how to navigate, which can be inserted into the GPS, which will lead you exactly to the desired location or grave you are interested in going to.
The study tour was organised and hosted by the City of Debrecen and the Association for the Tourism of Debrecen and Hortobágy, with the kind support of Wizz Air
43 thoughts on “Footsteps of the ADMORIM RABBIS of Hungary”

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