An ancient Georgian legend tells that the Rabbi Longinus of Mtskheta embarked on a pilgrimage to Eretz Israel about two thousand years ago. He arrived in Jerusalem on the days when they crucified Jesus. Rabbi Longinus bought from a Roman soldier the robe of the crucifix. In those early days, Christianity did not yet exist, but Jesus presided over a small Jewish sect that was considered legitimate, like the caste of the Pharisees and Zedokim at the time. When Rabbi Longinus returned to his hometown, which was the capital of Georgia at the time, he gave the robe of Jesus as a gift to his sister, Sidonia. Sidonia excitedly embraced the robe, and puffed her soul on the spot. She was buried in the local Jewish cemetery with the coat of Jesus in her arms

Since many generations there have been links between Georgia and Jerusalem and Judaism. If we are planning a trip to Georgia, there are important Judaism points that we should know and consider

Tbilisi

We'd start our visit of Georgia in Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia. I recently visited there, and everywhere I saw Israelis and locals wearing kippah on heads and T-shirts with Hebrew prints. A lot of Hebrew is heard on the streets of Tbilisi.  Even some of the street names in Tbilisi are related to Judaism. I saw "Jerusalem" street, and "Etz Hayim" street, and the like. Some of the major churches have Hebrew names such as "Zion," "B'Tlamemy" (Bethlehem), "Sioni" (Zioni), the "Shiloah", and more

After Kabalat Shabbat prayer, I went for a Shabbat dinner at the local Chabad House. People who passed me greeted me "Shabbat Shalom" in Hebrew, as if we were hiking in Jerusalem. Masses of Israelis visit Georgia in the summer, many of them religious on a trip before being drafted into the army. There're so many Israelis are in the city, that the Chabad House holds two shifts of Friday dinner, each for a hundred diners, because the place is narrow to accommodate all who wish to hear Kiddush and to bless on Challah

Georgia offers incredible views and challenging attractions such as India and South America, but in Georgia it is closer to home, only two and a half hours' flight from Tel Aviv

Georgia is the only European country where we can walk around the streets with a Kipah, without any fear. Georgia is a Religious Cristian state that respects all religions and is tolerant of other religions as well. Georgia villagers often wear large velvet Kipah. The villagers come to the cities, and their domes hats are accepted naturally and indifferently as part of the landscape. So are our Kipahs

Tbilisi capital is an amazing city, where the old and the new are mixed. In the Old Town we see old houses with wooden balconies, and Khammam baths in centuries-old buildings

Not far away we can see ultra-modern buildings such as the Peace Bridge, the concert halls in the adjacent garden, the Courthouse with the roof in the form of domes, and more

Not everyone in Georgia likes the modern style of construction. They derisively call the concert hall "the trumpets," because that's what the building reminds them of. The charming Peace Bridge built eight years ago, is called also "Always Bridge", because its beautiful glass roof reminds them of the form of a hygienic pad for women

We take a walk in the old city of Tbilisi. From the bathing area we reach the central synagogue, and continue down the alleys of the Old City. We should also visit the Jewish Museum, housed in a building that used to be a synagogue, with a roof in the form of a prominent dome in the city skyline

We should also visit the strange building of the ‪Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater. Parts of the building looks like floors taken from other houses, and children set them on top of each another like a dice tower, about to collapse. The top floor has a clock, and every hour, a figure of an angel comes out onto the porch, striking the bell and returning in. At 19:00 and 12 o'clock that figure is joined by other puppets. Although the structure looks like a theater for children, in fact it is an adult theater that raises plays with a communist aroma

The Jewish Museum is also located in the Old City. A "Must-See" for every Jewish traveler. The museum was erected within a circular synagogue building, that its dome stands out in the skyline of the Old City. It has a wealth of exhibits from the history of Georgia Jewry, and testimonies and documents from the eighth century AD

Wherever we stop in the Old City, we can descend towards the Kura river that crosses the city, and enjoy walking on its beautiful promenade. As we look up from the river up the mountain, we will see the walls of the ancient fortress of Narikala

Beside it there is the giant statue of "Mother Georgia" which is about 20 stories high. Locals say Mother Georgia is guarding the city, and welcoming the incomers. In her left hand, she holds a bowl of wine to give to those coming with peace, and in her right hand is a great sword against enemies

There is an Aerial Tramway cable car that takes us from the riverbank to the top of Narikala Fort. The fortress was built in the seventh century and destroyed during the wars, and the current buildings we see today are built in the 15th century. We should wander there and feel the special atmosphere. On the other side of the mountain are the botanical gardens

A beautiful large Main Synagogue is located very close to the river. It is called "the Georgian Synagogue", and also the "Synagogue of the Alkhaltzliches". From the outside it is built of red bricks, and its facade is decorated with a large Star of David

The interior walls and the ceiling are painted in shades of light blue and dark blue, with beautiful brown and crimson decoration. The decorations also added a kind of gray shade that gives the feeling of depth as if they were embossed and not just a flat wall

Above the Holy Ark is a wooden canopy in the shape of a ball. I was surprised to see that no women's section was built in this synagogue. They put for the women who come to pray a portable wooden partition inside a men's section, to the left of the front door

On Friday night, the synagogue is full to the people. I was impressed that Tbilisi Jews do not like the Israelis who come to pray with them, and talking during the prayer (as is customary in Israel). Therefore, the Israeli tourists are sent upstairs to pray on the second floor, where there is an even more magnificent synagogue

The prayer in this synagogue is in Nusach Edot Mizrach, with special "Nigunim" melodies of the Georgian Jewry. I saw in this synagogue some unique customs. After the Cohanim's blessing, the Cohen descends from the stage, passes among the worshipers, shakes hands with each one and welcomes him in Hebrew "Beruchim Tiheyu" (Be Blessed). On the Sabbath when I was praying there were about 200 worshipers in the synagogue, and this took a long time

Another local custom is before reading the Torah on Sabbath, firstly read chapters of Psalms from chapter 25 to chapter 29

They usually say "Mi Sheberach" greeting in a special etiquette. The Gabay and the "Ole La-Torah" are standing next to the Torah scroll, placing their hands on each other's shoulders, and whispering silently between them, that the audience cannot hear. I approached and heard that the Gabay quietly says the first verses of the "Mi Sheberach", and then the Oleh quietly says the names of the people he would like to bless, and in the end the Gabay silently says the verse that concludes the "Mi Sheberach" we're familiar with

Another unique thing I noted in the Tbilisi synagogue in that there are no police officers at the entrance of the synagogue, and there are no guard posts like we have seen in every synagogue in Europe. The Jews of Tbilisi feel secure, and have no need for guards

The address: 45 Leselidze Street

The synagogue courtyard also has a kosher restaurant "King David" and further down the street there are more kosher restaurants

A short distance up the street there is the Beit Rachel Synagogue, located inside a commercial passage, opposite of an Arabic restaurant. A beautiful marble-plated modern synagogue, but not interested as a tourist site. It looks like any regular synagogue, and also our style of prayer, with no uniqueness and special melodies. Most worshipers here are natives of Georgia who immigrated to Israel and moved back to Tbilisi, but prefer to pray in the style which they prayed while in Israel. In fact, it has its uniqueness – services here are quickly, and are finished long before in the main synagogue

When we come to a week-long trip in Georgia, we must spend at least the first two days in Tbilisi, and then take trips elsewhere in this wonderful country

Kutaisi

Kutaisi is Georgia's second largest city. It is located in the western part of the Kolkheti Plains on shores of the Rioni river, 220 km from Tbilisi. Here was functioning the second largest Jewish community in Georgia. The Jewish Quarter has a synagogues complex

The main synagogue was built in the 19th century and is still used for prayers. Sometimes the small synagogue in the same complex also in use

This synagogue had crowns of "Kiddush Hashem". During Russian rule, the authorities demanded that the Jews evacuate the synagogue, in order to utilize it as a cultural center. The Jews of Kutaisi tried to prevent the evil of decree by various attempts and money bribery. It did not work. The Jews did not obey the ordinance and did not evacuate the Torah scrolls from the synagogue. When trucks approached in order to load all the contents of the synagogue. The local Jews fled on the roads leading to the synagogue, preventing the trucks from approaching the synagogue. Finally, the Russian authorities surrendered and clear the place

During World War II, many Jewish refugees arrived in Kutaisi from Polin and Hungary. One of them was the writer Dov Gaponov, who translated the Georgian epic "The Man in the Panther's Skin" by Shota Rusthavili. On that translation he was awarded the Tchernichovsky Prize, but was not allowed to leave the USSR to Israel for receiving the award. Despite this, the translation has echoed in Georgia. The press reported extensively on the translation of their culture around the world. Following the publication, Gaponov became a symbol for Zionists in Georgia and inspired many Jews to immigrate. In Kutaisi, a memorial site was erected in his name on "Shumayani Street".         i

One of the shaping events of the big immigration from Russia to Israel was a letter that was sent to the United Nations by 18 families from Georgia, and got a worldwide publicity. 13 of those families were from Kutaisi

Beautiful Georgia

After two or three days of visiting Tbilisi and Kutaisi, we should also travel to other regions of beautiful Georgia

The Georgians are very proud of the beauty of their country. Folk legend says that when G-d divided countries for all nations, the Georgians were busy with a wine-drinking party as usual. When they finally arrived to divide the lands, God had no longer anything to offer them. The Georgians protested in sorrow, and then G-d offered them: "Take the land I have saved for myself". And this is how the Georgians won the beautiful piece of land in the world – the little plot of God

The word "Georgia" means "agricultural land," and for travelers here, that name seems appropriate for the country. Everything is green all around, in fields, trees, shrubs, forests, and streams

The most recommended destination is for the town Kazbegi north in the Caucasus Mountains. The road from Tbilisi to Kazbegi goes through the "military route". This road was named on the path that the Russians army paved in their campaign of Georgia occupation two hundred years ago. The road crosses Georgia from the north to the center, and whoever controls it is actually controling Georgia. Part of the road passes through the high Caucasus Mountains, continuing parallel to the Araki River and beautiful streams with abundant vegetation and trees and green forests. This route crosses ancient towns and churches and monasteries and many tourist attractions

Shortly after leaving Tbilisi we see Jvari Monastery on the top of the mountain

It was built in the sixth century near an ancient wooden cross that was placed at the top of the cliff, to mark the entrance of Christianity to Georgia. There is a great view of the town and its riverside meeting

About 30 km from Tbilisi is the city of Mtskheta, which was the capital of Georgia. The largest and most important building is the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. It was built above the old Jewish cemetery. At the first century the chief Rabbi's sister was buried there, with the robe of Jesus in her arms. About 300 years after her death, the Christians came to the Jewish cemetery and opened a grave after grave, until they found a grave with a skeleton embracing a fabric. Above that grave they built a wooden church. A hundred years later they replaced the wooden building with stones, and on that occasion destroyed the Jewish cemetery. The great cathedral we see here today was rebuilt in the 15th Century. All the large courtyard that surrounds the church was once a Jewish cemetery

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This church is the most important one in Georgia, where Georgia's chief patriarch is serving. The palace of Georgia's kings has also been here for many generations, and it was also the capital city. The place is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site

We continue northbound on the military road, stopping at a meeting of two large rivers. The view is stunning. A huge dam called Zhinvali was built near the riverside. Its name is given to a small village in the valley, that was flooded with water that has risen because of the dam

The water cover all the village houses. Sometimes in a low tide, two pillars can be seen above the surface of the water. These are the edges of the crosses that were located on the roof tops of the village's churches

Further down the road, about 90 km from Tbilisi, we will stop for another meeting of two smaller rivers in the Pasanauri area. The color of the water in the two rivers are different, and at the point of encounter is a flow of dark black water in parallel with clear white water. The differences in shades are due to differences in water temperature and soil type and erosion along the channels in the last few kilometers before the meeting point

After about half an hour drive we arrive at Ananuri Fortress. This is one of the many ancient guarding fortresses, but this one is the only that were left intact. From the backyard of the fortresses we can see a spectacular view of the lake and stream. In the 13th century the site was used as a residence of the duchy of Aragevii dynasty. None of them died of natural death, and they are buried in a church located in the compound

We continue northbound on the military road and arrive at the Gudauri ski town, 2,200-meter-high. The road to Gudauri is winding down the mountainsides, and we should stop on the way to a spectacular view of the landscape of the steep and green Caucasus mountains. A pastoral landscape reminiscent of Switzerland. Everything is green, but without trees, only bushes and grass. Gudauri has many ski hotels and cable cars for skiers. In winter it is full of surfers, including Israelis. In summer there is not much to do here. Most hotels are closed, and many cable cars do not work. But it can be pleasant to take a short walk in the charming mountain scenery. There are also bike paths, and bike rental shops

From there, continue for about 10 minutes' drive, and arrive at the "Friendship Monument" built on the edge of the cliff overlooking the Aragbi River

It's marking 200 years of friendship between Russia and Georgia. The "Friendship Monument" is a large, round structure with a colorful mosaic, on which Georgian civilians and Russian soldiers are illustrated. The big woman in the center symbolizes "Mother Russia" and the children around her represent the people of Georgia. On the left we see Russian soldiers

Our guide sarcastically and bitterly mocks this "friendship". "The Russians came, conquered us, trampled us brutally, robbed our treasures, and these activities they're calling 'friendship" he says

When the Russians conquered Georgia about 200 years ago, they changed its name to Gruzia. When Georgia gained independence with the fall of the Soviet Union, the name Georgia was reclaimed. In 1992, after the demolition of the Berlin Wall, young Georgia's men tried to smash and destroy the Friendship Monument as well, but they didn't succeed. The government later renovated and restored the beautiful mosaic tiles on the interior wall of the monument

The memorial balconies have stunning views of the deep valleys beneath it, and of the high mountains across

The area has plenty of challenging sports activities, especially paragliding. We can rent an ATV for a surface trip, and rent horses for self-riding accompanied by a local guide

Those who're staying here for a few days can take a horse riding trip, as in ancient times. At the synagogue in Tbilisi, I met on Shabbath a group of Hesder Yeshiva students from Israel, who told me that on Sunday they'll go on a 5-day ride from Tbilisi to Gudauri. They load tents for accommodation and prepare food to cook on their way. The riding route to the Caucasus Mountains passes through lanes in fascinating mountain scenery, forests, narrow crevices, and across streams, in which vehicles cannot get into. It is said that this road is much more beautiful as the charming military road in which we traveled. Young people who come to Georgia for three weeks of "Beyn Ha-Zmanim" can afford to spend a five-day horse riding trip

Kazbegi

The last beautiful stop on the military road is the Kazbegi village. In the 14th century, King George V expanded the territories of Georgia, and established transit check points to collect taxes from passersby. When the tax collectors were attacked, soldiers were brought to guard them. The king gave his military officers lands to build a village and a guard post. They named this village "Gurgati" after King George, and over the years the name was changed to Kazbegi

On the mountain above the village stands a beautiful church Gergeti Trinity 2,200-meter-high. To get there we have to rent a 4X4 car in the lower village, because the path to the mountain is very winding and disruptive. Traveling on these vehicles is a big experience. There is also a 4 hour hiking trail to the mountain. A monastery was initially built on the mountain. The army chiefs used its rooms as a "safe" for keeping the funds for salaries and to purchase food and equipment for soldiers. It is easier to keep money in a remote location on the mountain ridge, where it is difficult for robbers and enemies to reach it. Over the years, a church has been built in close proximity. The church and monastery courtyard has a breathtaking view to every direction. The valley below is spectacular, and on the other side is the Mount Casbec summit. The mountain rises to a height of more than 5,000 meters. The name Casbec means "snowy dome", because at its summit there is snow-up even in the summer

Along the military road from Tbilisi to Kazbegi there are many complexes for different types of challenging sports. Rafting can also be done here. Recommended!               i

We can stop at restaurants and buffets along the way. I was traveling with a group of Israeli journalists, and we stopped for lunch at one of the non-kosher restaurants along the way. I had a special Jewish experience in that restaurant, that you might find it interesting

Usually in most restaurants abroad I order just fish, and asking to wrap it in aluminum foil while heated or roasted

At this restaurant they served me a fish in a plate without aluminum foil. I asked the waitress if I could get a baked fish in aluminum foil. She answered "yes", and took back the plate she brought me. Immediately, the restaurant manager came to our table, returned the plate to the table, and sent her to the kitchen to order another baked fish in aluminum foil. When the wrapped fish dish arrived, I asked the restaurant manager why he had left the first fish on the table? He replied: "I wanted you to be sure it is another fish, and we didn't just wrap the first fish we already served."            i

I asked this kind gentile, how does he understand kosher rules? He explained that the Georgian Ministry of Tourism trains all the tourists' restaurant owners about the needs and tastes of all kinds of tourist groups. In that course they're also teaching them the special Kosher limitations of Jewish travelers, and how to identify us by the Kipah

So far, a two-day or one-day trip from Tbilisi to the north is a must. Than we'd return to Tbilisi. It is advisable to return not in the way we arrived in, but in another route where we will see more interesting sites. My favorite route is the path of the historic "Silk Road" and from there back to Tbilisi. Here are other places worth going through at least one of them

Akhaltsikhe

On the hill that dominates the Akhaltsikhe city is a huge ninth-century Rabati fortress with a wall that surrounds the entire city. The fortress was built to guard against southern Turks invaders, and is part of a chain of guarded fortresses along the Silk Road. For 400 years, the Jacquelie family ruled, which one of its rulers was Queen Tamar. The fortress features paintings and statues of lions, the Jacqueline royal emblem. We can also see inside the fort several places with David's shields. This is because the royal family considered themselves descendants of King David

In the 16th century the Turks conquered the place and the Georgians conquered back and so it passed from hand to hand until finally the Turks won, and ruled here 300 years. The Turks forced the landlords to convert to Islam, and renamed the city "Rabati". About 200 years ago, the Russians conquered Georgia as well as Rabati, and renamed it Akhaltsikhe

One of the largest and most impressive buildings in the complex is the mosque. It was originally built as a church, but the Muslims changed it to be their mosque. This is a usual practice of Muslims. They do not build and innovate by themselves, but stealing and taking over things of others. The beautiful mosque has an oriental architecture, reminiscent of the great mosque Ayia Sophia in Istanbul (that also was a church first). Some of the ruins of the original church are displayed by the inner walls of the building

Inside the complex there is also a museum that houses archaeological exhibitions of more than 5,000 years, and modern ones too. The museum also has a Jewish section. It features a mantel coat of Sefer Torah, silver bells, few Siddurim, and various pictures. It is interesting to see that that the Torah scroll has Ashkenazi handcript, while in all the Georgia synagogues we see only Sephardic Torah scrolls, with Sephardic stule box, and a Sephardic handwriting as by the "Beit Yosef" system

Behind the exhibits we'd notice the fact that Georgia Jews are important in the eyes of state leaders and cultural leaders, so they bother to devote a place for Judaism too in their museum

The most exciting Jewish spot in Akhaltsikhe is a visit to the Great synagogue. There once was a large and prosperous Jewish community here. Most of the Jews were wise traders, and in the 19th century Turkish rulers used the Jews and their connections to develop the economy on the periphery. Members of the Jewish community in Akhaltsikhe are the ones who built the Great Synagogue in Tbilisi too

In Akhaltsikhe there is an ancient synagogue that was built in 1863, and is now maintained by the Gabay, Shimon Levy. There is not much left of the large and prosperous Jewish community. By 1970s, about 3,000 Jews had lived in Akhaltsikhe, but most of them immigrated to Israel, and a minority emigrated to Vienna. Only three Jews remained in the city

The synagogue floor and its ceiling are made of wood. The Holy Ark is built of stone in the shape of the two tablets, each with its own Torah Ark doors and Parochet. Inside there are 15 Torah scrolls, one of them is 500 years old. Israeli flags hang above the Holy Ark and the reading booth

There are 6 large chandeliers with lots of light bulbs. But in each chandelier only one light bulb is lit and illuminated. Evidence of the poverty of the small community

Occasionally there are Shabbat prayers in Minyan, which consists mainly of Jewish tourist groups from Israel or USA. These Sabbaths fill the three local Jews with joy and delight

A rabbi from Tbilisi is coming once a week to give a Torah Lessons "Shiur". Shimon Levy proudly shows me the "Ein Yaakov" books printed in 1874, which they are currently studying with the Rabbi from Tbilisi

I wanted to pray Mincha in this synagogue. I took one of the communist-era Siddurim from the bookshelf. No Mincha text prayer was printed in these Siddrim. I saw there are only Shakharit morning and Ma'ariv evening prayers in it. I wondered aloud, and Gabay Shimon Levy explained that the Communists regime demanded that all workers must work during the timing of the Mincha prayer, rather than "wasting" working time on praying in synagogues. Therefore, the communist government ordered not to print the Mincha prayer in the Siddurim. In contrast, there is a very prominently printed "God bless the kingdom of SSSR" which it's said after reading the Torah on Shabbat

There was another smaller synagogue down the street. The Little Synagogue was built in 1902, and operated until Stalin closed it in 1950. After Stalin's death, the Jews reopened the small synagogue, but with the deterioration of the Jewish community it was closed again. The municipality made it a sports hall. The Holy Ark from the small synagogue was brought to the main synagogue, where it is located on the corner of the eastern wall

Up the hill behind the synagogue is the Jewish cemetery of Akhaltsikhe. Inside it we see many scattered tombstones, some of them very ancient. It is difficult to read the writing on the tombstones, because of the damage of time. On the sides of most of the tombstones there are beautiful decorations, according to a special tradition of Georgia Jews

Some tombstones look like several stories on each other. Probably of the rich or important people. Here and there are also new tombstones of recent decades. Some of the headstones are surrounded by an iron fence. It seems that someone maintains the cemetery

Before we left the cemetery, a group of Israeli journalists stood at the gate, holding hands with each other, and together we said Kaddish in memory of the deceased, that no one came to visit their graves any more

Khertvisi

From there we continue south into the valley where the Kura River flows, where the famous Silk Road also passes. Along the route were built fortresses to keep passengers, to collect taxes, and for lodging and refreshments of merchants and horses in the trade convoys. Three of the fortresses have survived. The fortress at Akhaltsikhe is the best known of them. In a distance of one-day horse riding, which is now half an hour's car drive away, there is another beautiful fortresses of Khertvisi. It is a very ancient fortress that is also mentioned in the books of Alexander the Great

Further on the Silk Road southbound we will see the remains of the Tamogbi Fortress. Its construction began in the seventh century, and completed at the 12th century. It was built at a very strategic point on one of the straits that the silk way was crossing through. Up in the mountain was the fort where the soldiers lived and trained, and down in the valley were Khan's lodge buildings to host the convoys of merchants passing by

Vardzia

Vardzia is a small town carved into the hillside. It began as a monastery, built and excavated during the reign of Queen Tamar in 1185. Over the years it was expanded into a formidable economic project, in which employed thousands of workers for years

Nowadays there are about a thousand rock-hewn rooms behind each other, including corridors reminding us of the Western Wall tunnels in Jerusalem. Only about 600 rooms have been exposed so far. Some rooms are small, and some are large. We can see here a big tall church, and also halls that served as dining rooms and study rooms and conference halls. The locals carved their homes in the mountain because it was easier than building a stone house. It is also very comfortable in terms of the weather. Inside in the mountain belly the temperature is always 15 degrees, in summer and in winter. No heating and no cooling needed. It is also protected from burglars and robbers

There used to be more rooms. In the 13th century, there was an earthquake, which "shaved" down the mountain, and swept hundreds of outer rooms that collapsed

The pedestrian climbing up is not easy. There is a van that takes people from the entrance area down the valley to the departure point for mountain tours

Gori

The Gori's most important tourist site is the Stalin Museum. Stalin was born and raised in Gori, joined the soviet revolution, and became the cruel ruler of Russia. Stalin initiated the construction of a Communist Revolution Museum to be built in the backyard of his parents' home. But he died before the project was completed. When the building was completed they made it a museum of Stalin himself. Mainly to show negative aspects of his actions and personality. The display is not very impressive. Lots of his pictures on the walls and also some maps. Very few exhibits from his era that could interest us. What is notable here is the lack of air conditioning for visitors

Outside the front of the museum entrance is a pillar structure with a flat concrete roof. it covers a shabby little house where Stalin grew up as a child

In the museum courtyard stands a "royal" train car used by Stalin on his travels throughout Russia and elsewhere

About 150 Jews live in the city of Gori nowadays, out of about 3,500 who lived there until the great Russian immigration to Israel times in the last quarter of the 20th century. Gori's chief rabbi was Rabbi Raphael Elashwili, immigrated to Israel and he's currently the leader of the Georgian community in Ashdod, and one of the most important Georgian rabbis in Israel

Guri's synagogue is located below the southern fortress wall. Every Shabbat eve and Shabbat morning prayers are held in Minyan. Sometimes they don't get 10 Jews for a Minyan, so they recruit one or two non-Jewish neighbors as "Shabbos Goy".         i

It is difficult to identify the synagogue from the outside, even when we're very close to it. It is enclosed in a gray iron fence, and the only sign is a Star of David on the gate top. The address: Castelli Street 25. On the fence, it's written the telephone number of the Gabbay to come to open for us. 551-9820

Borjomi

A recreational wellness and healing town in central Georgia, which is also a popular tourist destination. It based on a fountain spring of mineral water, famous all over the world, and distributed mainly in the communist regions. This water has a salty sour taste of sulfur. I tasted and spited. It wasn't good for me, but we can't argue with millions who buy and drink it

A public park was set up around the spring. At its fringes there is also a cable car that takes us up to the mountain, where there is a resting area with an amusement park and various children's facilities

Uplistsikhe

On the limestone hill and inside it there are the remains of a small town that was carved into the soft rock in the 15th century. Magnificent theater halls and churches were also exposed inside, among the many living rooms. The place was once a bustling commercial center. On the hilltop is the "Prince's Cathedral" built in the 19th century on the ruins of the old cathedral restored

Sevaneti

One of the hallmarks of Georgia is watchtowers that are seen everywhere, especially in the Sevaneti region. About a thousand years ago, wealthy families would build a watch tower in their private estate. Soon their neighbors did too, and these towers were a sort of proclamation of importance and wealth of the landlords

This created a situation that in many southern Georgia villages we see about a dozen such watchtowers. But in the northern villages there is only one tower in each village

Georgians have a tradition of drinking wine not from a cup, but from an animal horn, or plastic in the form of a horn. The reason: We can't put the horn on the table, so we have to drink all the wine before we put the horn on the table

When I came back home I was asked "What have I seen the most in Georgia?" I replied "Water! Everywhere there are rivers and streams of water."                     i

"And what's the second most common thing there?" I was asked. I replied "rusty". Lots of rust can be seen everywhere

"And what didn't we see in Georgia?" I have not seen freeways interchanges, and almost no traffic lights

Traveling across Georgia seems like that life have stopped since the Russians conquered Georgia two hundred years ago. It looks like this warm country has been put in the freezer. Many houses and roads look neglected

Outside of cities, houses in villages and towns are not plastered from the outside. We can see the building blocks and the cement adhesive bonded them to each other. Most roofs are made of corrugated metal, and in most places it is rusty. Rust has also risen in most of the electric pillars, house fences, gas pipes, and just about anything made of iron

On the one hand it seems neglected and backwardness, and on the other hand – when practiced, there is in it something as beautiful as another shade of soil. On the roads we see many old trucks, which in Israel would be considered scrap

The roads are relatively neglected compared to what we know in Israel. Lots of cracks, potholes and small pits on the roads. In addition, cows and horses can also be seen on the road in many highways. Single cows or whole herds roam the road, interfering with traffic

It looks like a time-travel to Israel of the middle of the last century. It has a special beauty of authenticity. In addition, it causes a sense of patriotic feeling to appreciate the high standard of living we enjoy in the State of Israel

Photos: Liron Almog, Alon Melamed, and Jacob Maor

The writer was a guest of the Georgia Embassy in Israel

and of the Georgian airline, which operates two flights to Tibilisi every day