In the midst of the Holocaust, a remarkable chapter unfolded in Helsinki, the capital of Finland. Mere meters from the main synagogue, there existed an unusual gathering place for German SS soldiers. As Jewish worshippers donned their Talitot and congregated in the synagogue on Shabbat, one can only speculate on the emotions that coursed through the minds of those SS soldiers

World War II further wove a tapestry of complexity as Jewish officers actively served within the Finnish army. Amidst the wartime alliance, German soldiers, including those from the Nazi regime, found themselves integrated into Finnish military bases. Remarkably, German units even had Jewish officers from the Finnish army in command, leading to surreal scenes of Nazi soldiers saluting Jewish officers. The profound question persists: What emotions stirred within the hearts of those in the Nazi army during such encounters?     i

Adding to the paradoxical narrative, the German army awarded the prestigious "Iron Cross" decorations to three Jewish officers for acts of exceptional heroism during World War II. However, these Jewish recipients defiantly rejected the decorations, symbolizing a poignant moment of resistance against the very force honoring them. What emotions must have surged through the hearts of these Jewish officers as they turned away such recognition from the Germans?    i

These perplexing and captivating anecdotes may seem like surreal fabrications within the historical tapestry of the Holocaust. Yet, they serve as a testament to the unique and diverse experiences of Finnish Jewry—then and now. Approaching the entrance of the Helsinki synagogue, visitors encounter marble memorial tablets bearing the names of Jewish soldiers who valiantly "fell for the homeland" while fighting alongside the German army in World War II. These tales, both strange and compelling, contribute to the rich and multifaceted history of Finnish Jewry

The Jewish community in Finland stands out as a unique narrative amid the grim backdrop of the Holocaust. Remarkably, they escaped the horrors faced by their counterparts in other European countries. Even today, they thrive and enjoy a notably high standard of living, a fact that became evident during my recent visit to this captivating northern nation

Touching down in Helsinki in the midst of summer, I was met with a stark contrast to the scorching temperatures of Israel, which I had left behind. The cool and charming atmosphere of Finland became immediately apparent. Clad in a leather jacket, I found myself still feeling the chill—a testament to the refreshing coolness of this enchanting land

Finland, a country boasting an expanse 18 times larger than Israel, is home to a population of approximately 5.5 million. Its vast landscape is characterized by dense forests and around 200,000 lakes, a natural backdrop that has fueled the dominance of the wood products industry in the nation. Despite this, Finland's global recognition often stems from the technological giant, Nokia

The Jewish population's resilience and prosperity in Finland contribute to the overall sense of well-being within the country. As I explored its expansive terrain and experienced its unique climate, I couldn't help but marvel at the harmonious coexistence of nature, industry, and a thriving community—a testament to the multifaceted allure of Finland

In my exploration of Finland, I couldn't help but sense an atmosphere of open hostility towards neighboring Sweden, a sentiment deeply rooted in a complex historical backdrop

For over 700 years, Sweden ruled Finland, exploiting its abundant natural resources. The Swedes, however, held a condescending view of the Finns, branding them as an "inferior race" due to their non-"pure Scandinavian" origins, tracing back to Hungarian tribes. Notably, the Finnish language bears a resemblance to Hungarian. This historical dynamic has left an indelible mark on the relationship between the two nations

A manifestation of this historical tension surfaces in the realm of sports, particularly in Finland's national sport, ice hockey. Competitions and sporting events between Finland and Sweden garner disproportionate interest, transforming each victory of the Finnish national team over Sweden into a cause for national celebration

Strolling down the main street of Helsinki, leading to the central square, it's intriguing to note that numerous clothing stores are owned by Jewish proprietors. Moreover, the city's second-largest supermarket is under the ownership of a Jewish family, emphasizing the diverse economic contributions of the Jewish community within the city

A focal point in Helsinki's city center is the expansive Senate Square, featuring a statue of Czar Alexander II at its core. The czar played a pivotal role in conquering Finland and displacing the Swedish regime. Locals humorously remark that "only birds love the Russians, because they can shit on the heads of their statues", underscoring the ambivalence and layered history encapsulated in public spaces

The iconic Senate Square in Helsinki not only holds historical significance but has also played a surprising role in Hollywood. This square, adorned with buildings reminiscent of Moscow and St. Petersburg, served as a stand-in for "Russia" in Hollywood movies during the Cold War era. At that time, when Americans were barred from entering Communist Russia, the square provided an architectural backdrop that closely resembled the Russian style

Encircled by grand and imposing structures, all designed by the same architect, each building contributes to the square's majestic ambiance. Directly in front stands the ancient cathedral, a striking white edifice. To the left, the yellow building houses the Finnish Parliament, notable for its unique feature—windows on each floor designed in diverse styles. Notably, in the 1980s, Ben Ziskovich, a Jewish individual, was elected as a Member of Parliament, . Finland's Parliament has 200 seats. 40% of MPs are women. Half of the Finnish government is made up of women as well. underscoring the inclusive nature of Finnish politics

As we absorb the architectural splendor of Senate Square, we gain insight into its dual role—historical landmark and cinematic surrogate for a bygone era when geopolitical constraints influenced creative choices in the film industry

In the corner, a nondescript gray building may appear unremarkable to the casual observer, but for locals, it holds profound historical significance. This unassuming structure stands as the very first stone house ever built in Finland, weathering the ravages of numerous fires that have swept through the city over the years

Finland, a country abundantly endowed with vast forests, traditionally constructed the majority of its houses from wood. This architectural choice, driven by the ample availability of timber, contrasts sharply with the enduring resilience of this stone building, symbolizing a unique chapter in the evolution of Finnish construction practices. Amidst the wooden facades that dominate the landscape, this unpretentious gray structure stands as a testament to durability and endurance, having withstood both the passage of time and the destructive forces of fire, embodying a living link to Finland's architectural heritage

Adjacent to the historic stone house, a descending street unfolds, leading toward the bustling port of Helsinki, just a short stroll of about ten houses away. At the waterfront lies the vibrant Market Square, adorned with an array of stalls and tents. The white tents showcase an array of tourist souvenirs, offering visitors a chance to take home a piece of Helsinki's charm. Meanwhile, the orange-roofed tents specialize in an enticing array of food, particularly fresh fruits and vegetables

Among the local treasures, the strawberries at this market are hailed as the tastiest in the world, according to the proud proclamation of Helsinki's residents. It's an invitation worth accepting—immersing yourself in the sensory delight of sampling these renowned strawberries firsthand. As you navigate the market's lively atmosphere, the tempting aromas and vibrant colors create an experience that captures the essence of Helsinki's maritime charm and culinary delights

In the harbor area, the skies are alive with the raucous calls of numerous seagulls, their constant flight adding a dynamic energy to the scene. A unique feature of the harbor landscape is the presence of concrete statues depicting turtles, scattered throughout the surroundings. The symbolism behind these statues is a subject of contemplation—do they represent the unhurried pace of life here, moving as steadily as a turtle, or perhaps signify the sense of personal security that locals feel, as if they carry a protective turtle's shell with them?   i

The turtles, frozen in concrete, become both an artistic element and a source of intrigue, inviting passersby to ponder the deeper meaning embedded in their presence. Whether it's a reflection of the unhurried nature of the surroundings or a metaphor for the secure and sheltered feeling experienced by the locals, the turtle statues add a distinctive touch to the ambiance of the harbor, contributing to the rich tapestry of symbols that define Helsinki's waterfront

Perched on a hill to the left of the main pier, a striking cathedral dominates the skyline. Its tall silhouette is adorned with red walls and a distinctive green roof featuring gilded corners. This architectural gem is none other than the Uspenski Cathedral, a notable landmark in Helsinki that not only serves as a place of worship but also houses captivating artwork that draws the attention of tourists from near and far

The vibrant colors and ornate details of the Uspenski Cathedral make it a visual spectacle against the backdrop of the harbor. Its cultural and historical significance, combined with the allure of the artistic treasures within, create an inviting magnet for visitors eager to explore the rich tapestry of this iconic religious and artistic hub. The cathedral stands as a testament to Helsinki's diverse cultural heritage and the harmonious blend of architectural beauty and artistic expression

Situated proudly on the promenade opposite the harbor, the town hall emerges as a distinctive architectural presence. The building, adorned in subtle yet captivating shades of azure and gray, stands as a visual testament to the town's character and charm. The harmonious blend of these calming hues not only complements the surrounding coastal landscape but also lends an air of sophistication to this civic hub

With its prime location along the promenade, the town hall becomes a focal point, offering both locals and visitors a visual anchor against the maritime backdrop. The azure and gray tones of the building reflect the tranquil spirit of the waterfront, inviting passersby to appreciate not only the administrative functions it houses but also the aesthetic appeal that contributes to the overall ambiance of this picturesque town

A beloved attraction among the city's tourists is the memorial dedicated to the national composer, Young Sibelius. Dominating the scene is a large statue intricately depicting his visage. Adjacent to this striking sculpture stands a unique and poetic installation—a tree-like structure whose branches are crafted from church organ tubes

This artistic creation becomes a living homage to Sibelius's musical legacy. Occasionally, when a strong wind graces the memorial, the tubes come to life, emitting enchanting musical sounds. In these moments, the statue seemingly becomes a vessel for the composer's spirit, serenading those who pause to listen with an impromptu and ethereal melody. It's a whimsical yet deeply moving experience that encapsulates the connection between art, nature, and the enduring impact of a national musical icon

 

Finnish Jewry

Finland's Jewish history unfolds against a backdrop distinct from other European communities, emerging in the 19th century during a pivotal period of political transformation. Throughout the 700 years of Swedish rule, Jews were prohibited from residing in Finland. Even when Russia conquered the territory in 1808, the laws against Jews remained unchanged

A significant turning point occurred with the presence of Russian "Cantonists"—liberated soldiers allowed to stay in places they served. Some of these soldiers, known as Cantonists, chose to make Finland their home, forming a Jewish community. In 1906, they inaugurated a synagogue, later adding a small school and a mikveh

The year 1917 marked Finland's independence, accompanied by a policy shift abolishing all restrictions on Jews. Eastern European Jews began immigrating, joining the Cantonists and their descendants

Remarkably, during World War II, Finnish Jews in Helsinki stood out as one of the few Jewish communities in continental Europe spared from the Holocaust. Enlisting in the Finnish army, they served alongside German soldiers due to the alliance against a common enemy—Russia. Despite this unusual situation, the Finnish Jewish soldiers were protected from Nazi actions, preventing their deportation

However, not all Jews in Finland were Finnish citizens. Some refugees faced extradition to the Germans and, tragically, eight non-citizen Jewish residents were sent to Auschwitz. Learning of their fate, the Finnish president halted further extraditions

A poignant memorial, erected in a public garden, commemorates the eight victims. Designed by Joseph Verdi, the monument bears their names and a verse from Isaiah in Hebrew, Finnish, and English. Inaugurated in 2000, the memorial serves as a somber reminder, hosting an annual service on November 6—the day the victims were taken from a nearby platform. The presence of the Finnish Prime Minister at the inauguration, seeking forgiveness, reflects a commitment to remembrance and reconciliation

Address: Tahni Torni- Observatory Hill Park

nearby platform

In a symbolic gesture towards the Jewish people, Finnish Christians established the settlement of Yad HaShmona near Abu Ghosh on the road to Jerusalem. This community stands as a testament to the enduring connections and friendships forged between Finland and the Jewish people

In 1979, Ben Ziskovich made history by becoming the first Jewish representative elected to the Finnish Parliament, marking a milestone in the nation's political landscape. Notable Jewish figures in Finland include Max Jacobson, who served as Finland's ambassador to the UN and was nominated for the position of UN Secretary-General. Jacobson also held the prestigious role of Finnish ambassador to Sweden. Other prominent Jewish individuals in Finland include the artist painter Sam Vanni and the musician Simon Fermat. Seelah Selah, the first actress in the National Theater, adds a unique dimension to this roster—she, a local convert to Judaism, found love and partnership with the cantor of the Jewish community

As of today, the local Jewish community boasts 1,300 members, including 200 Israelis. Additional small Jewish communities exist in Turku, while the community in Tampere has regrettably faded away over time

The heart of Jewish communal life in Finland beats at the main synagogue located at 26 Malminkatu Street, a brief walk from the central train station. This synagogue serves not only as a place of worship but as a vibrant hub for cultural and communal activities, anchoring the Finnish Jewish community in its rich heritage and traditions

The synagogue stands gracefully on Runeberginkatu Main Street, nestled between the two expansive wings of the Radisson Hotel. An interesting facet of this coexistence emerged during the hotel's planning phase when objections were raised by the Jewish community. Concerns were voiced about the proposed structure potentially obscuring and overshadowing the synagogue

In response to these concerns, the authorities displayed commendable sensitivity and responsiveness. A decision was made to alter the hotel's plans, resulting in the construction of the hotel in two wings. This thoughtful adjustment ensured that the synagogue's prominence and architectural significance remained unaffected, allowing it to be visible and appreciated by all. Today, this harmonious juxtaposition stands as a testament to the community's commitment to preserving and respecting the cultural and religious landmarks that contribute to the unique tapestry of the area

The Radisson Hotel on Runeberginkatu Main Street has become a favored lodging choice for religious Jewish travelers, especially on Saturdays. Its close proximity to the synagogue and the kosher restaurant within the Jewish community building makes it a convenient hub for observant guests. To reach the synagogue, one simply crosses the hotel lobby. Identifying the synagogue is made easy not only by its distinctive red dome but also by the prominent security measures in place—security cameras on the stone fence and surrounding electricity poles. At the entrance, a guarded security post manned by Israeli security personnel checks the passports of those seeking entry

The synagogue, primarily Orthodox, accommodates a diverse congregation that includes secular and Reform Jews, as well as the children of former Israelis who have married local non-Jewish spouses. A notable portion of the worshipers are descendants of the Russian Cantonist soldiers who chose to make Finland their home

Beyond the synagogue, the Jewish community complex encompasses a wide range of facilities, including an elementary school up to ninth grade, a kindergarten, a youth movement, a spacious mikveh, and a kosher restaurant. Notably, the complex also houses a conversion ulpan, where Israeli children and some women undergo a comprehensive year or two of studying Judaism. Upon readiness, a Beit Din from Jerusalem travels to examine and convert those who meet the qualifications, enriching the diverse fabric of the Jewish community in Finland

To our right, the old yellow building stands as the synagogue. Before entering this sacred space, our attention is drawn to a poignant memorial on the wall—a black stone commemorating the victims of the Holocaust. It serves as a solemn reminder of the atrocities suffered by many during that dark period in history. Notably, the inscription carries a unique resonance in Finland, as the Jewish community here, against the tragic backdrop of the Holocaust, did not face extermination, standing as a testament to the distinctive and fortunate circumstances that shielded them from such horrors

Ascending to the second floor, we step into the renovated synagogue, where history and tradition converge in a harmonious blend. The wooden flooring, reminiscent of the early 20th century, carries a certain rustic charm. As we traverse the space, the occasional creaks emanating from the aged floor add a unique layer to the atmosphere, intensifying the sense of holiness and connection to an ancient tradition

The antique furniture, carefully preserved and maintained, contributes to the timeless aura within. Expert preservation artists painstakingly removed layers of plaster and paint that had accumulated over the years, revealing the original surfaces from the synagogue's inauguration. This meticulous process unveiled a rich greenish-blue hue that once adorned the interior walls, reflecting the aesthetic choices of a bygone era

A decade ago, celebrations and ceremonies marked the 100th anniversary of the synagogue's establishment, underscoring the enduring legacy of this sacred space within the Finnish Jewish community. The meticulous restoration serves not only as a nod to the past but as a bridge connecting generations, preserving the authenticity and sanctity of the synagogue for years to come

In the Holy Ark area, a captivating transformation has taken place. The backdrop, including the sacred space and the rainbow above, has been adorned with a rich and deep shade of dark blue, evoking a sense of reverence and spiritual depth. The restoration efforts extended to the intricate decorations above, skillfully revitalized to recapture the original shades that graced this sacred space in its inaugural moments

This careful attention to detail not only preserves the historical authenticity of the Holy Ark area but also breathes new life into the symbolic elements that hold profound significance within the synagogue. The deep blue hues and restored decorations stand as a testament to the commitment to honoring tradition and ensuring that the visual elements of the synagogue continue to inspire a sense of awe and connection among worshipers and visitors alike

Rabbi Litzman leads the vibrant Jewish community, working in collaboration with Rabbi Benjamin Wolf, the Chabad Shaliach. Their efforts are complemented by the impactful presence of Bnei Akiva, operating under the guidance of dedicated Shelichim. Bnei Akiva's success in encouraging young people to consider immigration to Israel, attend Yeshivas, or enlist in the IDF is notable. However, this forward-looking approach encounters resistance from some within the older generation who express concerns about the community's future

In addition to the diverse Jewish community, there exists a sizable group of ultra-Orthodox members. The Jewish cemetery, situated downtown adjacent to Christian cemeteries, has faced challenges in expansion requests that were unfortunately denied

Finland holds the distinction of being the northernmost Jewish community globally. In the summer, the phenomenon of "white nights" occurs, where the sun either does not set at all or sets after midnight. This unique setting influences Sabbath observance, as illustrated by Cantor Andre Zweig's remark about seeing three stars. The community follows the custom of setting Sabbath candles according to Jerusalem time. On the Sabbat I was there, candle lighting was at 19:30, followed immediately by the Kabbalat Shabbat service in the synagogue. But they did not pray Ma'ariv or recite Kriat Shema; after the Kabbalat Shabbat prayer, everybody went home for Shabbat dinner, and only after saying Birkat haMazon did they pray the rest of the service