Jewish Tour in Bucharest

Bucharest has emerged as a captivating destination for Jewish and Israeli tourists, boasting intriguing facets of Jewish culture and history

Let me start with the riddle: What is the structure of this photograph?

Well, the answer to that is that this building is the largest Kosher restaurant in Bucharest, a hidden gem without any external signage. This unique establishment, unlike any other, does not actively seek customers, creating an exclusive atmosphere for local Jews

This is the only restaurant that I have ever seen that does not try to attract customers. Here, Jewish tourists are not welcome. The restaurant is closed in itself, just like the Jewish community. Hiding, scared, and mostly from itself

However, it reflects a broader trend of isolation within the Jewish community, characterized by a lack of collaboration between the community committee and Chabad Shlichim. The local Jews are suspicious of such welcome Jewish activity as organizing a mass Sedder, or Torah and Tanya lessons. In many parts of the world, I saw that Chabad Shlichim was treated suspiciously, but Bucharest is not like any other Jewish community in the world.

The historical backdrop reveals the tumultuous journey of the Jewish population in. Before the Holocaust, Romania was home to 850,000 Jews; post-Holocaust, only 350,000 survived, with many immigrating to Israel. The shadow of dictator Ceausescu further impacted the community, and despite an official census in 2011 identifying 3,271 Jews, Chabad Rabbi Naftali Deutsch believes the actual number is higher. Suspicion lingers around activities like mass Sedder or Torah lessons organized by Chabad Shlichim, setting Bucharest apart from other Jewish communities globally

The diminishing presence of synagogues tells a poignant story. Once boasting 1,550 synagogues nationwide, Romania now has only 81, with Bucharest housing a mere six. Ceausescu's grandiose urban plans led to the destruction of much of the Jewish quarter, displacing thousands of families. A Holocaust Memorial near the People's Palace stands as a solemn reminder, featuring an iron column engraved with the Hebrew word "Zachor" ("Remember"). The memorial includes a subterranean memory room resembling a mass grave, adorned with tombstones from Jewish cemeteries

Near the People's Palace in Bucharest stands the poignant Holocaust Memorial, a solemn tribute to the victims of Jews and Gypsies. Dominating the outer plaza is a five-story iron column, each side adorned with Hebrew letters spelling "Zachor" ("Remember"). Visible from afar, this structure serves as a stark reminder of historical atrocities, resonating with both the People's Palace and the Chishmigio Gardens

The memorial's main building, situated deep underground, creates a profound experience akin to a mass grave. Tombstones from Jewish cemeteries line one side of the tomb, accompanied by a rusted iron Star of David and a large box with rock fragments. Rusty iron wheels in the plaza symbolize the plight of the Gypsies     

Bucharest's Jewish quarter, once thriving behind the Coltea Hospital, paints a stark contrast from pre-Holocaust times when 15% of the city's population was Jewish. Today, less than 0.1% are Jews, marking a significant decline from the 81 synagogues and Batei Midrash that once existed. During the communist era, Romania stood as the only Communist country with an active Jewish community life, led by Rabbi Moshe Rosen, also a member of the Romanian parliament

Turning our attention to Bucharest, the Choral Synagogue takes center stage. Established 150 years ago and recently renovated, it boasts opulent decor, and stunning murals, and accommodates both an organ and choir, earning the name "Chorali." Damaged by earthquakes, the synagogue underwent an eight-year restoration before its re-inauguration in 2014. Today, it stands as an Orthodox synagogue, vibrant during Shabbats and holidays

The women’s section was originally on the second floor, but in recent years, a partition was made on the first floor, because the older women who arrived to pray on Shabbat had difficulty climbing the stairs. The Gabbai, Gilbert Schum, is proud to have hosted Israeli leaders such as Menachem Begin, Yitzhak Shamir, Golda Meir, Benjamin Netanyahu, Peres, and Yuli Edelstein. When his grandfather was the Gabai, he hosted Moshe Montefiory in the synagogue.

The Polish synagogue, now a Holocaust museum, is a testament to remembrance. Adorned with charming decorations, its Holy Ark wall showcases poignant posters and images from the Holocaust. Notably, the museum honors Righteous Among the Nations Trajan Popovich, the former mayor of Czernowitz in Romania, who saved around 25,000 Jews during the Holocaust by providing genuine Christian identity cards. His extraordinary acts even surpassed the renowned Oskar Schindler

It is worth paying attention to Righteous Among the Nations Trajan Popovich, whose story and picture are located in the southwestern corner of the museum. During the Holocaust, Trajan Popovich was the mayor of Czernowitzi in Romania (now in Ukraine). He saved about 25,000 Jews by issuing them Christian identity cards. These identity cards were real and original, and not fake. Because of this, he saved more Jews than Schindler.

Among the Jews he saved were the grandparents of the Hollywood actor Dustin Hoffman. And, in recent years, Dustin Hoffman has been working on producing a feature film about Popovitz's acts during the Holocaust, and Hoffman will play the lead role of Popovitz. One of the researchers for this film is the tour guide who accompanied me on a tour of the Jewish Bucharest, Yochan Mikhalishu. "This will be a film like Schindler's List, but bigger."

A must-visit in Bucharest is the "Yeshuha Tova" synagogue, the city's oldest, now revitalized by Chabad. With nearly three daily minyanim, it preserves the spiritual heartbeat of the community. The Chabad House offers affordable kosher meals, contributing to the vibrant Jewish experience in Bucharest

Rabbi Naftali Deutsch says that there are almost three minyanim every day. When I went there for a Shaharit service one morning, I was the "Tzenter", the 10^th for the Minyan. On the other hand, in the Kabbalat Shabbat prayer, the synagogue was packed with worshipers, most of them Israelis, and I found it hard to find a seat in the prayer hall, which has about 150 seats. (address: Tache Ionescu 9)

The Chabad House has a kitchen that provides kosher meals to the hotels at a cheap price of only 15 euros for lunch.

The Polish synagogue, once a center for Sephardic worship, now serves as a Holocaust museum, adorned with charming decorations, posters, and pictures depicting the harrowing events of the Holocaust

One of the most important synagogues in Bucharest was the Malbim Synagogue,  the rabbinate of Rabbi Meir Leibush ben Yechiel of Michel Weiser served, whose commentaries we learned at Bnei Akiva yeshivas. This synagogue stood desolate for many years, until the communist regime destroyed the building in 1988, and built the municipal library on its ruins. There are also two abandoned buildings in which there were synagogues – the Beit Midrash, also known as "The Lost Synagogue" because it is hidden between houses that block access to it, and the "Chevra Emuna" synagogue

It is worth saying that there is also a Jewish museum in Bucharest, but I have not seen it because it has been closed for 4 years now for renovations. But, it will soon be opening to the public. I was told that prior to the last Passover holiday, a press tour was being held at the museum to mark the opening of the museum, but that there were defects that are being dealt with, and it is not known when they will end

Bucharest's Yiddish Theater building showcases the secular side of Jewish culture, though its tourist appeal may be limited. The city, dotted with ruins of Jewish institutions like the nursing home, reflects the complex reality of Romanian Jewry today

I would also like to conclude my review of Bucharest Jewry with a symbolic photograph, much like the opening picture of this post.

In Bucharest, there are more ruins of Jewish institutions than active structures. One example is the structure of the large nursing home that operated until 1958, and today is abandoned and destroyed. After the abandonment, Gypsies entered. At first they lived there, stole all the furniture and faucets, and even the doors, the glasses, and the mezuzahs. In my eyes, this place and the restaurant reflect the situation of Romanian Jewry today more than the beautiful and renovated synagogues do.

With approximately 3,000 Jews in Bucharest, mostly adults, and a declining trend in Jewish weddings, Rabbi Deitsch predicts a potential fading of Judaism in the city within a decade or two. Various tourist agencies offer Jewish Bucharest tours, providing insights into the community's history

Notably, the Municipality of Bucharest offers guided Jewish tours, making it accessible for visitors to delve into this intriguing aspect of the city's heritage. For personalized tours, Ioan Mihailescu, an esteemed guide, can be contacted through www.bucharestjewishtours.com or by phone at 4-0722-235095, offering a rich exploration of Jewish history in Bucharest at EUR 57 per family for a walking tour and EUR 145 for a minibus ride with 5 people

The information and images for this article were obtained by the Bucharest Expirience organization and especially by its managers Tudor & Anda Maxim