The Czech Republic is one of the few European countries where Jewish travelers can explore safely and without worry. In contrast, many other popular tourist destinations are overshadowed by rising antisemitism, forcing travelers to exercise caution and diminishing the joy of their journeys. This reality has made travel to some countries, such as Turkey and Morocco, almost nonexistent for Jewish tourists. Similarly, recent riots in Amsterdam and ongoing issues in the Netherlands, France, Belgium, Norway, and other nations with violent Muslim minorities have caused these destinations to fade from the Jewish tourism map. The dark shadow of Muslim antisemitism continues to spread across Western Europe.
In stark contrast, Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, offers a safe and serene haven for Jewish travelers. During my walks through Prague, I encountered no Palestinian flags, nor did I hear Arabic spoken on the streets. The Czech government has refused to resettle Syrian refugees or allow the establishment of a BDS branch, creating an atmosphere of freedom and security. One can confidently stroll through Prague’s streets, wearing a kippah or Star of David necklace without fear. Rabbi Manis Barash, the Chabad emissary in Prague, attributes this to the spiritual legacy of the Maharal and other renowned rabbis who once lived there.
The Czech Republic is also one of the most Israel-friendly countries in the world. It is the only nation that has never voted against Israel in the UN or other international institutions. The support rate for Israel among Czechs stands at an impressive 80%, far surpassing the approval ratings of Israeli governments at home. I spoke with young non-Jews in a Prague pub to understand this sentiment. They explained that their admiration stems from a historical wound: during World War II, Germany and Russia signed the Munich Agreement, which allowed the Germans to occupy Czechoslovakia. Many Czechs still feel betrayed by the lack of resistance from their parent's generation. They told me, “Look at Israel, a country smaller than ours, surrounded by enemies, yet it never surrenders. Instead, it fights for its existence. That’s how a nation should act. Why didn’t our people resist like Israel?”
This admiration for Israel fosters a deep connection between the Czech Republic and Jewish travelers, inspiring gratitude and curiosity to explore the country. While the Czech Republic boasts a rich array of tourist attractions, Jewish travelers often prioritize its Jewish heritage sites.
Prague is captivating even in winter, despite the chilly weather. Visiting during this season offers the advantage of fewer tourists, allowing a more intimate experience of the city’s charm. Even so, my Arkia flight to Prague was fully booked, reflecting the city's enduring popularity.
One of the highlights for Jewish travelers is exploring Prague’s stunning synagogues, most of which are located in Josefov, the former Jewish Quarter. Josefov is named after Emperor Joseph II, who granted equal rights to Jews, enabling many to pursue education and wealth. Over time, this led many Jews to move from the overcrowded Jewish Quarter to more modern neighborhoods. However, by the early 20th century, the remaining Jewish Quarter had fallen into disrepair, inhabited primarily by the poor and elderly. To address public health concerns, the authorities demolished most of the old buildings, preserving only the synagogues and constructing a proper sewer system. Today, Josefov features grand buildings, some of which still display construction dates from the early 1900s.
The Jewish Quarter is compact, and all its synagogues and historic sites are just minutes apart on foot. Among the must-see synagogues in Prague are:
Old-New Synagogue
Built in 1270, the Old-New Synagogue is one of the oldest continuously active synagogues in the world. This sacred space has been home to some of the most renowned Torah scholars, whose many of us studied their books in yeshiva. Among its illustrious rabbis were the Maharal (Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel), the Shnei Luchot HaBrit (Rabbi Isaiah Horowitz), the Tosafot Yom Tov (Rabbi Yom-Tov Lipmann Heller), and the Nodah Be-Yehudah (Rabbi Ezekiel Landau). Walking through the synagogue and the streets of Prague, feels like walking with our eyes on the lines of their books. One can’t help but feel connected to their legacy, breathing the same air, witnessing the same sights, and absorbing the atmosphere that shaped their lives.
Legends and Origins
The Old-New Synagogue is steeped in legend. One story claims its foundation stones were brought from the ruins of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem. Another legend connects it to the famous Golem of Prague, a clay figure brought to life by the Maharal to protect the Jewish community. According to tradition, the remains of the Golem rest in the synagogue's attic.
The synagogue's name, Altneuschul, also has its share of myths. Some say it comes from the Hebrew words al tnai ("on condition"), referring to the belief that the foundation stones would return to Israel when the Messiah comes. Historically, however, the name simply means "Old-New Synagogue". Initially, it was called the "New Synagogue." Over centuries, as other synagogues were built in the Jewish Quarter, another one was named the "New Synagogue," and to differentiate the older one, the word "Old" was added, resulting in the name "Old-New Synagogue."
Architecture
The synagogue’s Gothic architecture features a rectangular structure with a steep, towering roof. The interior includes six pentagonal vaults supported by two octagonal pillars, and the high ceiling creates an expansive, spiritual space. Twelve windows symbolize the 12 Tribes of Israel, while the floor is intentionally lower than the entrance, fulfilling the verse, "Out of the depths have I cried unto You, O Lord" (Psalm 130).
The eastern wall houses the Holy Ark, crafted from marble and adorned with a pointed arch and intricate stone decorations. Beside it stands the "Maharal's Chair," which remains off-limits to anyone. At the center of the synagogue is a raised bimah surrounded by an iron fence, used for Torah readings. Hanging above the bimah is a unique 17th-century Jewish community flag—a red banner with a yellow Star of David encasing a Jewish hat, framed by the words Shema Yisrael.
Over the years, an entrance hall and a women’s section were added. Small windows in the wall separating the main hall from the women’s section allow prayers to resonate throughout the space. To this day, the synagogue holds Shabbat services, maintaining a continuous tradition.
The Golem of Prague
One of Prague's most famous legends revolves around the Golem. The Maharal is said to have formed a clay figure and brought it to life with a note inscribed with the Ineffable Name of God. The Golem defended the Jewish community, countering harassment and blood libels. Every Friday evening, the Maharal "deactivated" the Golem to avoid desecration of Shabbat.
One Friday, however, the Maharal forgot, and the Golem wreaked havoc in the streets. In the middle of the "Mizmor Shir L’Yom HaShabbat" prayer, he was alerted to the chaos, rushed out to deactivate the Golem, and then returned to restart the prayer. This event established a unique tradition: the Mizmor Shir prayer is recited twice during Friday night services at the Old-New Synagogue, a custom observed nowhere else in the world.
The legend of the Golem transcends Jewish lore and is celebrated in Prague's culture. Souvenir shops often sell clay or wooden Golem figurines, marked with the word emet (truth) on their foreheads and a crack on their chests where life was infused.
A Living Legacy
During my visit, I witnessed an emotional and semi-historic event: a Brit Milah (circumcision) ceremony for the grandson of the local Chabad emissary. The newborn is a 17th-generation descendant of the Maharal. Remarkably, the last brit milah held in the synagogue was for the baby's father, 27 years ago. The baby was named Shneur Zalman after the founder of Chabad, who was the 7th-generation descendant of the Maharal. This profound moment was a testament to the resilience of Jewish tradition and the unbroken chain of generations.
Photos of Israeli hostages currently held in Gaza adorned the synagogue walls, inspiring prayers for their safe return. To me, these images symbolized the enduring strength of the Jewish people. Despite centuries of persecution, through pogroms, exile, and the Holocaust, the Jewish spirit remains unyielding. The Old-New Synagogue stands not just as a monument to the past but as a beacon of continuity and hope. Am Yisrael Chai—the Jewish People Live!
The Spanish Synagogue
The Spanish Synagogue is widely regarded as the most beautiful synagogue in Prague. Its exterior is striking, but it’s the interior that truly takes your breath away. The synagogue’s name reflects its architectural inspiration, the Alhambra Palace in Spain. Inside, colorful marble tiles and Moorish-style mosaics adorn the walls and ceiling, accented with intricate gold decorations totaling two kilograms. From the central dome hangs a grand chandelier shaped like a Star of David, adding to the synagogue’s splendor.
Photo: Prague City Tourism
The women's section features an organ, played during holidays by a non-Jewish musician who composed the Czech national anthem. On Shabbat, however, the organ remained silent, respecting Jewish tradition.
While it no longer serves as a house of worship, the Spanish Synagogue has been repurposed as a cultural and historical center. Its walls host displays and glass cabinets showcasing religious artifacts, Holocaust relics, memorabilia of Jewish soldiers in the Czech army, and items belonging to prominent Jewish families. Among the synagogue’s most notable attendees during Jewish holidays were Franz Kafka and Sigmund Freud. Today, it functions as the Museum of Bohemian Judaism and a Holocaust museum.
Outside the synagogue, in the entrance plaza, stands a unique statue of Franz Kafka riding atop a headless figure. The sculpture was inspired by his story "Popis Jednoho Zápasu" (Description of a Struggle), adding another layer of cultural significance to the site.
The Maisel Synagogue
The Maisel Synagogue is named after Rabbi Mordechai Maisel, the wealthiest Jew in 16th-century Europe. His immense wealth supported the Austrian emperor in financing wars against the Ottoman Empire. Within the Jewish community, he was celebrated for his generosity, which included donations to the poor and the establishment of synagogues, yeshivas, and a Jewish hospital.
In 1592, Rabbi Maisel built a private synagogue next to his home. While the original structure was destroyed by fire, the synagogue was rebuilt on the same site. The current building reflects renovations carried out in 1905, which gave it its present appearance.
Since the Holocaust, the Maisel Synagogue has ceased to function as a place of worship and now operates as a Jewish museum. Its walls are lined with an impressive collection of parochet (Torah ark curtains) and mantles (Torah scroll covers). At the entrance, a tall partition features a large screen offering a virtual tour of Prague’s Jewish Quarter before its destruction, providing visitors with a vivid sense of history.
The Klausen Synagogue
The Klausen Synagogue is the largest in Prague’s Jewish Quarter, situated near the Old Jewish Cemetery. Its name derives from the German word Klaus (small building), as it was originally built on the site of three smaller structures. The synagogue’s origins trace back to the efforts of Mordechai Maisel, who constructed a synagogue for members of the Chevra Kadisha (burial society) and an adjoining yeshiva where the Maharal ideas were studied.
After the original complex was destroyed by fire in 1689, the current Baroque-style synagogue was built in its place.
Today, the Klausen Synagogue is closed to visitors. However, during a previous visit, I had the opportunity to see an exhibition featuring items related to Jewish rituals, including those used for brit milah (circumcision), bar mitzvah, and weddings. Despite its closure, the synagogue remains a significant landmark in the Jewish Quarter, reflecting the rich traditions and history of Prague’s Jewish community.
The Pinkas Synagogue
The Pinkas Synagogue, built in the 15th century by Rabbi Aaron Meshulam Horowitz, is named after his brother Pinchas. Today, it serves as a poignant memorial to the Holocaust victims from Prague and the surrounding regions.
Of the original synagogue, only the ornate Torah ark and the central reading platform remain. The benches and bookcases have been removed, and the walls are now covered with the names of 77,297 Jewish men, women, and children from Bohemia who were murdered during the Holocaust. The sheer number of names is overwhelming, making it difficult to absorb the scale of the tragedy. Visitors may notice notable names, including the parents of former U.S. Secretary of State Madeleine Albright (known for her critical stance on Israel) and Franz Kafka's three sisters.
The second floor, which once served as the women's section, now houses an exhibition titled Children’s Drawings from the Terezín Ghetto. This collection features drawings by children interned at the Terezín concentration camp. Despite the horrors they faced, the Jewish community at Terezín made efforts to preserve some semblance of normalcy, including operating schools and kindergartens. The children often expressed their fears, hopes, and anxieties through art. Tragically, nearly all the children who created these drawings were murdered within months. Their artwork, displayed on the walls, is deeply moving and heart-wrenching.
In the synagogue’s basement, there is a mikveh (ritual bath) and a water well, though these are currently closed to the public.
The Old Jewish Cemetery
The Old Jewish Cemetery lies between the Klausen Synagogue and the Pinkas Synagogue, accessible via a pathway from the Pinkas Synagogue. This historic burial ground is one of the oldest of its kind in Europe. The first gravestone dates back to 1439, while the last burial occurred in 1787.
Due to restrictions imposed by the local authorities, the Jewish community was not permitted to expand the cemetery, leading to an extraordinary practice of "layered burials." When space ran out, existing graves were reopened, additional soil was added, and new burials were conducted atop the old ones. Gravestones from the lower layers were preserved and placed on top of the new graves, creating a dense, layered landscape of markers. In some areas, up to 12 burial layers are stacked, resulting in the cemetery being significantly higher than the surrounding streets.
The cemetery’s narrow winding paths are lined with gravestones, ranging from simple markers to ornate, elaborate monuments. Informational signs provide details about prominent individuals buried there. One of the most visited sites is the grave of the Maharal (Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel), located near the fence, where visitors often pause to pray.
The Chevra Kadisha Building
Adjacent to the cemetery stands the Chevra Kadisha Building, originally used as the tahara (ritual purification) room. Over the years, it was expanded, with a second floor added to house the offices of the Chevra Kadisha (burial society). Today, the building is a tourist site, with Hebrew signage adorning its exterior.
The Chevra Kadisha provides a grave-finding service for visitors seeking family burial sites. Requests should be made at least a week in advance to ensure assistance.
Visiting the Jewish Quarter
The Old Jewish Cemetery, along with five historic synagogues in Prague’s Jewish Quarter, forms part of the “Jewish Museum,” which is managed by the Jewish community. Tickets to these sites can be purchased at a booth on Maiselova Street 38/15, near the Old-New Synagogue. Due to the popularity of these attractions, long lines are common, so it is recommended to purchase tickets online in advance.
The cost of a combined ticket for all the synagogues and the cemetery is 500 Czech korunas (approximately $20 USD). While this price is relatively high compared to other tourist attractions in the Czech Republic, it reflects the unique and historic nature of these sites. Last year, the Jewish Museum welcomed approximately 800,000 visitors, generating an estimated $16 million in revenue. Some local Jews have expressed curiosity about how this revenue is allocated within the community.
The Jerusalem Synagogue
The Jerusalem Synagogue is the newest and one of the most breathtaking synagogues in Prague, located outside the historic Jewish Quarter. Inaugurated on Simchat Torah in 1906, it was initially named the "Jubilee Synagogue" to honor Emperor Franz Joseph's silver jubilee. Following the fall of the Iron Curtain, the synagogue was renamed "The Jerusalem Synagogue" after its location on Jerusalem Street. It is also known as the "Tsineiner Synagogue," named after its benefactor.
The synagogue’s beauty is evident even from the outside. Built in the Art Nouveau style with Moorish design elements, its facade features a striking blue arch inscribed with the verse: "This is the Lord’s gate; the righteous shall enter through it." A large stained-glass window adorned with a Star of David sits at the center, surrounded by intricate gold-painted carvings and decorations.
However, the true splendor lies within. The prayer hall is designed with two rows of seating and a women's gallery above, supported by seven vibrantly painted arches inscribed with Hebrew verses. The Torah ark is adorned with intricate carvings of the Tablets of the Law and grapevines, enhancing the spiritual ambiance. The gallery railings and arches are exquisitely decorated, creating a harmonious blend of color and design. Sunlight streaming through the large stained-glass windows casts a kaleidoscope of hues across the hall, adding to the synagogue’s enchanting atmosphere.
Nowadays, services are held here only on Shabbat mornings (Shacharit). The women's gallery now houses an exhibition on the Jewish history of Prague and Moravia. A wooden partition divides the seating rows in the main hall, with women seated on one side of the partition.
The Jerusalem Synagogue is a gem that should not be missed, even though it is located outside the city center. Its architectural grandeur and serene interior make it one of the most captivating synagogues in Europe.
The Chabad Center
For Jewish visitors to Prague, the Chabad Center serves as a welcoming "home away from home." The center holds daily prayer services with a minyan three times a day, and in the summer, multiple Shacharit services are often organized.
The Chabad Center also operates The Grill, a kosher meat restaurant that offers delicious meals, highly recommended from my personal experience. On the next building Chabad runs a kosher dairy restaurant, and a pizzeria within walking distance, providing a variety of options for visitors seeking kosher dining.
Beyond its dining facilities, the Chabad Center manages the Lauder Jewish School, which educates about 300 pupils, half of whom are not Jewish. It also operates a seminary for girls, primarily attended by students from the United States, who often assist in organizing holiday events for the community.
The Chabad Center offers practical services for Jewish travelers, such as arranging Hebrew-speaking guided tours of Prague and its surroundings, as well as providing drivers for airport transfers.
The Jewish Community in Prague
The Jewish community in Prague officially numbers around 2,000 members, though Rabbi Barash estimates approximately 6,000 Jews are living in the city. Many locals remain unregistered, a lingering legacy of the Holocaust when Nazi authorities used Jewish community records to identify and deport Jews to death camps.
Since the fall of the Iron Curtain, Prague has welcomed many Jewish immigrants from former Soviet countries. The outbreak of the Ukraine war brought an influx of thousands of Jewish refugees to the city. While many have since returned to Ukraine or made aliyah to Israel, some families and individuals, particularly young men fearing conscription, remain in Prague. Both the Jewish community and Chabad have invested significant resources to assist these refugees.
Additionally, Prague is home to about 300 Israeli students studying medicine at local universities.
The city’s Jewish community is currently led by Chief Rabbi David Peter, a native of Prague who studied Torah at Israeli yeshivas, including Machon Meir in Jerusalem. His leadership continues to strengthen Jewish life in the city, providing spiritual guidance to both local Jews and visitors.
General Attractions
Prague is a beautiful, romantic city buzzing with numerous entertainment and sightseeing opportunities. Often referred to as “The City of a Hundred Spires,” it boasts many general tourist attractions that are not specifically connected to Jewish heritage. Here are a few recommendations:
Old Town Square
Photo: Prague City Tourism
This is a traditional starting point for tours of Prague. The square is home to the famous Astronomical Clock, which has been functioning with precision since 1410. The clock features an astronomical dial displaying the relative positions of the sun, moon, Earth, and zodiac constellations. A major tourist attraction occurs every hour on the hour when two small windows above the clock open to reveal 12 figurines moving around, accompanied by a crowing rooster and ringing bells.
The tower housing the clock is Prague’s oldest, dating back to 1308. Visitors can take an elevator to the top floor and enjoy panoramic views of the city’s rooftops from the observation deck.
The square also features several churches, including one that might look familiar. Its design inspired the iconic symbol of Walt Disney fairy tales and films.
Charles Bridge
Photo: Prague City Tourism
The Charles Bridge connects the Old Town with Prague Castle, separated by the Vltava River. The bridge is approximately half a kilometer long and 10 meters wide, adorned with 30 statues of cultural figures. At the center of the bridge is a statue of a cross inscribed with the Hebrew words “Holy, Holy, Holy is the Lord of Hosts,” made of gold.
I had visited Charles Bridge many times before, but this time I discovered its true beauty at sunrise. In winter, the sun rises here around 8 AM. On my way from the hotel to morning prayers at Chabad center, I saw the first rays of sunlight bathe the bridge and statues in a pink glow, with their gold accents gleaming in bright red. Minutes later, the sky turned a breathtaking purple, reflecting into the waters of the Vltava. It was an extraordinary and rare sight. I highly recommend making the effort to visit the bridge at sunrise.
Prague Castle
A vast complex that includes historic palaces, a massive dark cathedral, picturesque buildings (some serving as museums), and the official residence of the president. All this is surrounded by beautiful gardens. Entrance to the castle grounds is free, but access to individual buildings and museums requires a ticket.
River Cruise
After a long day of walking around Prague, a relaxing river cruise is a perfect way to end the day. Heated boats with transparent walls offer views of the city while commentary on the surrounding landmarks is provided through the speakers. There are two boarding and disembarking points for these cruises: one behind the Chabad Center and another near Charles Bridge.
The Czech Republic offers many more fascinating and enticing tourist attractions. The Czech Tourism Office and its embassy in Israel are actively promoting tourism to the country. As part of these efforts, they plan to organize a press delegation trip for an educational tour in early 2025. If I am included, I will gladly share additional Czech tourist sites with you.
I want to give special thanks to Prague City Tourism and to Dr. Vladimira Turkova, who accompanied me on my recent tour.