In the heart of the Caucasus, where Europe meets Asia, Georgia beckons intrepid travelers seeking a taste of authentic beauty and an enthralling blend of tradition and modernity. As the world emerges from the grip of the COVID-19 pandemic, Georgia's allure as a travel destination has resurfaced, with the promise of memorable adventures in its breathtaking landscapes and enchanting cities

In Georgian, there is a proverb that suits us: "A guest is a gift from God." In our public, Georgia is considered a substitute for a "post-military trip" in South America. It has plenty of scenery and thrills and hiking trails suitable for backpackers too

Arriving in Tbilisi, the nation's capital, one is immediately struck by the city's charm and affordability—a genuine pleasure for any traveler. A visit to Tbilisi unveils an exceptional fusion of old-world charm and contemporary vibrancy, a place where the past dances harmoniously with the present

For Jewish travelers with a penchant for exploration, Tbilisi has much to offer. The city's historic core, known as Kala, was once home to a thriving Jewish community, boasting a staggering 15 active synagogues. Although most of the Jewish residents emigrated to Israel during the 1970s, the echoes of Judaism still resonate throughout the narrow, cobbled streets of the old town. Synagogues, alongside churches and mosques, stand as living testaments to the city's rich tapestry of faith

Within the confines of these historic alleys, one will find streets bearing familiar names like "Jerusalem" and "Bethlehem." A waterway known as Sloaki meanders through the district, evoking the term "HaShiloakh." Dominating the skyline to the east of Kala is "Mount Tabor," an evocative nod to biblical references

   

Leselidze Street, named after a Russian general, cuts through this historic neighborhood. Despite the street's recent renaming to Kote Apkhazi in 2007, most locals still affectionately refer to it by its former moniker. Along this bustling avenue, one can explore a labyrinth of shops, restaurants, cafes, and even stands selling second-hand books

The great synagogue

The great synagogue, situated near the river, takes center stage in the former Jewish quarter. Constructed in 1895 by affluent Jews from Alkhatzlihe, this grand edifice boasts eclectic architectural elements, characterized by red brickwork and an imposing Menorah. The "Wall of the Sages," adorned with portraits and names of the community's esteemed rabbis, graces the left side of the entrance

Inside the synagogue, a visual feast awaits. The first floor is bedecked in Art Nouveau opulence, with walls and ceilings adorned in shades of brown and gold against a backdrop of dark and light blues, creating an almost three-dimensional effect. Above the doors of the Ark stands a wooden hemisphere-shaped canopy. Minyan prayers are a daily ritual, and the synagogue resonates with fervor during Shabbat services

The second floor houses the "Sephardic synagogue," a resplendent space reserved primarily for festive occasions. Remarkably, the Georgian Jewish community has preserved its distinct customs and traditions over generations

There was almost no assimilation in this community, and its people have maintained the Jewish tradition throughout the generations

The locals pray in the special Georgian version, but using Sidurim of "Nusach Edot Mizrakh" version. They have special customs and Minhagim, unfamiliar to us. Examples: They do not say Tachnun in the Shaharit morning prayers. In the old Siddurim also printed the prayer "Giving salvation to kings" (the equivalent of praying for the peace of our state), but the Jews of Georgia have never said it

The Jews of Georgia, who once spoke a distinct language known as Kiveruliane, intertwined Georgian and Hebrew words. In past generations, their Siddurim included prayers and explanations in the Kiveruliane language, though regrettably, these texts and speakers of the language have become exceedingly rare

In the Shabbat service, a unique practice endures as the cantor recites "Brich Shmey" in Kiveruliane or Georgian, and the congregation responds with "Sassi Keto, Sassi Chuchelle, and we say Amen," a verse that concludes with "Letav Ulechaim Venomar Amen" in Georgian

"Birkat Cohanim" (Cohen Blessing) is said only by the cantor, since there are no "racial" native Cohen in Georgia. It is written in the Bible that when the prophet Ezra wanted to build the Second Holy Temple, he did not find priests in Jerusalem, and he look for Cohens and Levy in the Diaspora communities. "And I viewed the people, and the priests, and found there none of the sons of Levi. Then sent I for Iddo and his brother, who were set over the place Casiphia, that they should bring unto us ministers for the house of our God" (Ezra 8:16)                    i

That biblical place Casiphia is still exist today, and located 64 kilometers east of Tbilisi, on the way to the city of Guri. So it turns out that already in the days of Ezra and Nechemiah there was a Jewish community in Georgia, which sent all its priests to the sacred work in the Temple. 2,600 years have passed, and even today there are no original priests in Georgia who will raise their hands in "Birkat Cohanim".       i

If a guest who is a Cohen arrives at the synagogue, he is asked to go up to the pulpit to greet the prayers. There is a unique Minhag that the audience also raise their hands like the Cohen, and turns around themselves

There are other unique differences in their version. In the Kabbalat Shabbat prayer, they say "Bame Madlikim" before "Lecha Dodi", and not before "Brachu" like we do. Before "Barchu" in Maariv they say more verses that are unfamiliar to me. In their after-food blessing (Birkat HaMazon) there say many more verses that begin with "Harachaman …"    i

Address: 43 Kote Apkhazi

The little synagogue

Amidst the mosaic of Tbilisi's synagogues, 'Beit Rachel' stands as a testament to the Ashkenazi heritage. A beautiful edifice adorned with marble, it has been a center of Jewish worship since 1864. In 2009, it underwent meticulous renovation, ensuring its continued grandeur

The majority of Tbilisi's Jewish community traces its roots back to the Judean exile, with contributions from Jews of Persian and Iraqi descent. In the 19th century, waves of Hungarian and Polish Jews added to this cultural mosaic. For many, Beit Rachel remains a personal favorite due to its early weekday prayers and the lively spirit that fills its hallowed halls

Address: Kote Apkhazi 28, and the entrance is from the back, through a passage between houses 28-26

Chabad House

Up that street is a Chabad House. Beit Chabad was originally established for local Jews, but today it mainly serves Israeli travelers. Prayers are held daily there in Minyan, and on Shabbats it is full of worshipers, most of them Israelis. Beit Chabad is run by the Shaliach, Rabbi Meir Kozlowski, and his wife Tzipi. Rabbi Meir is an expert on local Jewish history, and can give great traveling tips and info about places in Tbilisi and all around Georgia

A short stroll up the same street reveals Beit Chabad, a warm refuge for local Jews and Israeli travelers. Here, daily Minyan prayers thrive, and Shabbats see a congregation of devoted worshippers, many of whom are Israeli visitors. The dynamic leadership of Rabbi Meir Kozlowski and his wife, Tzipi, enriches the experience, as Rabbi Meir shares his expertise in local Jewish history and offers invaluable travel tips for Tbilisi and the wider Georgian landscape

Beit Chabad isn't merely a place of worship; it serves as a traveler's haven, providing maps and essential tools, including gas for cooking and coffee. Travelers can securely store luggage and backpacks, lightening their load as they explore the city

Shabbat meals, a cherished tradition, have relocated to Mendi's restaurant by the river, where the delightful fusion of Jewish and Georgian flavors awaits. Beit Chabad also plays a crucial role in education, operating the Jewish school in Tbilisi with 160 students, a quarter of whom hail from Israeli families

Address: 25 Kote Apkhazi Street

Cron Synagogue

A burgeoning synagogue has found its home on the ground floor of the Cron Palace Hotel in the Ortachala neighborhood. This cozy synagogue, accommodating about 40 men and 10 women, predominantly caters to hotel guests. However, its welcoming doors are open to all who seek spiritual solace

The hotel and synagogue were acquired by two Israeli partners, Shalom Janhashvili and Avi Shemesh, who recognized the need for a synagogue to serve the Jewish guests in the area

Address: Kheivani st. 12, in front of the Ministry of the Interior building

The Jewish Museum

The "David Bazov Museum" of the History of the Jews of Georgia is housed in a building with two concrete domes on top of each other, which stand out in the skyline of the Old City. The building was built in 1918, and was then called "The Little Synagogue".        i

A prominent landmark in the old cityscape, the "David Bazov Museum" of the History of the Jews of Georgia is an architectural marvel. Its distinctive twin concrete domes command attention against the skyline. Erected in 1918, this building was once the "Little Synagogue" until it transitioned into a museum in 1933. Closed during the Soviet era, it was meticulously restored and reopened in 2014, now boasting an array of artifacts, manuscripts, Jewish costumes, and evocative photographs. The most important find is an old bible from the tenth century, that was discovered in the city of Leylashi

   

Right: Manuscript area. Left: A page from Leylashi Bible

A display of ancient Jewish costumes

The ancient Hebrew tombstone

The museum's namesake, Rabbi David Bazov, was a trailblazer of Mizrahi (and Bney Akiva) Orthodox Zionism in Georgia, advocating for Jewish immigration to Israel and assisting in their successful absorption

Address: Anton Katalikos 3

The Synagogue of the Cantonists

Near the "David Bazov Museum" resides a substantial structure that has been transformed into a theater hall. This building was initially conceived as a synagogue by the Cantonists, ex-soldiers in the Russian army. After over two decades of service, they were rewarded with housing and property in the areas they had served. A substantial number chose to remain in Tbilisi and erected a grand synagogue with 600 seats, known as the "Great Synagogue."  And when another synagogue was opened next to it in a building that now houses the museum, they gave it the name "The Little Synagogue", even though it is quite large

Few years ago, the Jewish community demanded to get back that synagogue. The court ruled that it should be returned to the Jews, subject to finding another location for the theater. Since then, no other place has been found, nor is it clear who has the responsibility to find another location. so the synagogue has not yet been returned to the Jewish community.

Address: Anton Katalikos 8

The Jewish cemeteries

Three Jewish cemeteries in Tbilisi, the old, the new, and the Ashkenazi, unveil captivating narratives etched in stone. The tombstones whisper tales of tragedy and triumph, such as that of David Rabinowitz, whose grave bears the somber inscription "killed by murderers."         i

The new cemetery boasts strikingly different tombstone styles, featuring bright black marble adorned with illustrations of the deceased, and even life-sized statues. The graves are artistic masterpieces in their own right

There are also tombstones that are a life-size statue of the deceased. Example: The tombstone of the deceased "Daniela" looks like a monument or statue in our town square. On other black tombstones was attached the sculpture of the deceased's head in white limestone

A tour of the Jewish cemeteries can be an exciting spiritual experience. It is interesting to visit the large tombstone of Rabbi Yosef Shimshon Karash, who was the chief rabbi of Tbilisi, and was buried here in 1872. The oldest tombstone I have seen is from the year 1785 under which Nital Bat Shimon was buried

The most visited grave is "relatively new", and it is the tomb of Rabbi Kupchan, who was the Av Beit Din (Supreme Jewish Court President) of Tbilisi, and died in 1963. There is also a large and special tombstone for Rabbi Yehuda Leib Arie Polak, who died in 1911

The Ancient Jewish Pathways of Georgia

Georgia, a land of astonishing landscapes and cultural tapestries, is also a treasure trove of Jewish heritage. Within its borders, one finds a living museum of synagogues, cemeteries, and Jewish monuments. Guided by the diligent work of the 'Beit Israel' organization, led by Itzik Moshe, who hails from Israel, and the Jewish Association of the European Council, we embark on a remarkable journey along the "Jewish Route," which meanders through 51 significant Jewish sites scattered across this diverse country. In the following pages, we'll delve into these sites, each one a chapter in Georgia's rich Jewish history

Historical Tapestry Unraveled

Georgia proudly claims one of the world's oldest Jewish communities, tracing its origins back to the expulsion of Jews by Nebuchadnezzar following the destruction of the First Temple. The zenith of Georgia's Jewish population was reached in 1960 when approximately 100,000 Jews called this land home. However, the 1970s ushered in a new era when the gates swung open, inviting the majority of these communities to immigrate to Israel. Today, the Jewish population in Georgia numbers around 5,000. A recent census recorded only 1,850 Tbilisi residents acknowledging their Jewish heritage, but Rabbi Meir Kozlowski suggests the true count may be double that, as many prefer to keep a low profile

Intriguingly, the kings of medieval Georgia laid claim to being descendants of King David, and their legacy endures through the many churches from that era, adorned with the Star of David and other Jewish symbols. A testament to the remarkable harmony between the Jewish and Christian communities in Georgia, anti-Semitism was a rarity, with the exception of the early days of Russian rule in 1801. Georgia was one of the only places in the Soviet Union where Judaism continued to flourish. The phenomenon of assimilation that has plagued our people for generations has almost completely bypassed Georgia

Photo: Jacob Maor & Levan Giorgadze