Rashi in Troyes is one of the most important yet overlooked Jewish heritage experiences in Europe. While countless visitors travel to Cordoba to honor Maimonides, far fewer explore the medieval streets where Rashi lived, taught, and wrote commentaries that transformed Jewish learning. Today, visitors can follow a heritage trail, explore a dedicated museum, and walk through the neighborhoods that preserve the memory of the scholar whose works remain central to Jewish study around the world.
Until recently Jews who came to visit Troyes because of Rashi were disappointed; there was hardly anything to see. Today it has changed. In recent years, tourism projects have been carried out in memory of Rashi. The municipality of Troyes organized a hiking trail in the footsteps of Rashi, and the Jewish community opened a charming museum in his memory. I went to see for myself.
The Jewish Quarter Where Rashi Lived
The Jewish Quarter Where Rashi Lived
The streets and houses of Troyes have special beauty and charm. Most of the streets in the old area are paved with square old stones. Most of the houses are only two stories high. Their walls are constructed of wooden beams standing at a fixed distance from each other, with tiles of clay and concrete inlaid between them. Once the walls were covered with plaster, but today the plaster has been uncovered , and the old wooden beams have been painted with colors that accentuate them. These houses have the beauty of a painting or postcard
Rashi and his grandsons Rabenu Tam and the Rashbam walked along these streets. In the morning I've prayed Shacharith wearing Tefilin of Rashi. And after that I left the hotel, wandering through the beautiful alleyways, thinking about what Rashi and Rabenu Tam might have talked about on their way to the synagogue or back home
The Streets That Inspired Rashi's Commentary
The Jewish Quarter begins at the corner of Bouchera street and Rue de la Cite, and continues northwest to the Seine, at the intersection of Gonthier and Danton streets. The size of the area seemed to me like half the size of the Jewish Quarter of Old Jerusalem
Visitors familiar with the Jewish heritage routes of eastern France may also appreciate the parallels with other historic communities in Alsace.
Following the Footsteps of Rashi
The Site of Rashi's Synagogue
The synagogue and the yeshiva of Rachi existed in this Jewish quarter. Today a private building is located on the site of the synagogue. There are clear signs that this was once a house of prayer. In the foreground are signs of a large arch that probably served as the main entrance. This gate was clogged with concrete and windows. On the western side there are two gates with a bow. Above one of them were circular windows that were used only in synagogues and churches. Address: Rue Probert 2
Locating Rashi's Family Home
Rashi's home was in the parallel street, as he himself describes and writes about. This street once called "Rue de Juife", now called "Rue du Paon". About 400 years after the death of Rashi, in 1524, a huge fire broke out in the Old City that destroyed these wooden houses. Among them was also the house of Rashi. The city was rebuilt, but the streets remained in place
Rashi's house stood where the current houses number 15 and 13 stand. Most of the paving stones and milestones in the street have remained in place to this day. Apparently Rashi also stepped on these stones literally. It is exciting to follow his steps on those stones. Walking between these houses make us feel like walking between the printed lines of Talmud. It was a very exciting feeling
Jewish Legends and Historic Sites in Troyes
The Story of Rashi's Mother
Troyes has several local legends about Rashi. At the beginning of "the Cats Lane" there is a dent in the outer wall of one of the houses. Legend says that Rashi's motherwalked in this alley when she was pregnant with Rashi. Suddenly a Christian rider emerged. She clung to the wall so that she would not be run over by the horse, and the wall sank for her, creating an alcove into which the pregnant mother shielded herself. To this day a wall socket can be seen
Once a butcher shop was built in the location where Rashi was born, and lived as a little boy. The house stood at the edge of the 'Alexander Israel' Square, opposite the city's façade. This was named for a local Jew who was the French deputy foreign minister and a senator. Local legend says that there were never flies in this shop, probably due to the merit of Rashi
The main shopping street of the city in the medieval days of Rashi is now called 'Rue Emile Zola'. Most of the shops there were owned by Jewish merchants in those days. The street which intersects it is the "money changers street", which was also the "banking center" during the Rachi era. Most of the money changers were also Jews
When we study the issues of "Eyruv" on Shabbat, we rely on the detailed descriptions of Rashi. He describes in words how the courtyards looked. The Talmud mentions each railing, opening , or balcony. Rashi relied on the sight of his own eyes. In Troyes, there were common yards in some of the houses with a common entrance. In many places in the Old City we can also see these courtyards, and better understand what Rashi wrote
The Lost Jewish Cemetery
Rachi died in 1105, and was buried in the old Jewish cemetery, called the "Field of the Jews". His exact burial location is unknown. In the 14th century the Jews were expelled from Troyes, and after years the "Jewish field" was destroyed in order to expand the city. The tombstones were used for residential buildings. 'The Champagne Theater' building was built on the graveyard space, and a parking lot was subsequently paved. In 1990 a memorial monument of Rashi was established in the front of the theater. This consists of a ball about 3 meters in diameter, with the letters 'ר'ש'י' on it. (Address: Boulevard Gambetta 1
I don't like this monument. It is decorated in an ultra-modern style. But for us, Rashistands for old and ancient traditions, the opposite of modern style. It just does not fit. I shared these thoughts with the director of tourism of Troyes, Nicolas Villier. I showed him pictures of the statue of Maimonides in Cordoba that attracts masses of tourists. I said that if he'd do some similarly traditional statues in Troyes, he might increase Jewish tourism to his city
The Modern Rashi Synagogue
The active synagogue nowadays in Troyes was built in 1960, on the site of a monastery from the 17th century. All the houses in this area are ancient, from the 16th and 17th centuries. The synagogue is named after Rashi, although Rashi himself was never in this synagogue, because during his time this area was outside the city. There were lots of vineyards and apple orchards there, and perhaps even Rashi's vineyard was in this area too. We know from Rashi that he earned his living by growing vineyards and wine trading. In his commentaries he is knowledgeable about varieties of grapes and winemaking methods
A Growing Jewish Community
In the last generation there were only 60 families in the Jewish community. In the 1960s many Jews from North Africa moved to Troyes. Today North Africans comprise 80% of the local Jewish community, and only the remaining 20% are original Alsatians.
The synagogue was too narrow to accommodate all the worshipers. Recently, the community leaders broke the eastern wall and expanded the area of the synagogue into the inner courtyard. They paved it so that the outer walls of the adjacent houses now serve as "internal walls" of the synagogue. A glass ceiling was constructed there, like in a greenhouse. Above the ark (Aron Kodesh) there is the verse, "How good are your tents, O Jacob" ("מה טובו אהליך יעקב") , Under the glass roof spreads an aluminum ceiling in the shape of a tent waving in the wind. The result is beautiful. The new synagogue was inaugurated last year
Recreating Rashi's Study Hall
In the adjacent houses in the compound and courtyards between them, the Jewish community opened a visitors' center for Rashi’s heritage. The project is headed by curator Delphine Yague, owner of CULTURISTIQ. The idea of the exhibition is to meet Rashi in his natural environment, and then go into his interpretation as well. They reconstructed Rashi's study and Beit Midrash. The furniture and walls are made of walnut and oak. Just like in Rashi's times and in paintings from the Middle Ages, rough woods are used. The room and furnishings look so authentic that it feels like Rashi really was in this room
His chair at the head of the table has a very high back. On the table in front of it there is a small stand, with a Talmud open, as if Rashi was in the middle of learning. I looked at the Talmud and saw that it was opened in Masechet Sukkah. I switched back to page 40 where Rashi wrote: "And I heard from my rabbis who used to say … and I bothered in my youth on all sides of the Talmudic system to solve what they say." And here I am, exactly where Rashi testifies that he heard from his rabbis and bothered him from his youth. Wow!. I sat there and slowly read all the Rashi on the both pages of the Talmud. It was my most exciting experience in this trip to France
In the adjoining room were the reconstructed Beit Midrash and prayer room from the days of Rashi, with benches and a small walnut holy ark, without a curtain. Both rooms have an atmosphere of sanctity and elevation. This is not only due to the authentic furniture, but also because of the dim lighting
From there we move into the assembly room of the community. One of the walls is made of huge stained-glass windows, in which the drawing of Rashi's pedigree, his daughters, grandchildren, etc. The pedigree is terminated in the 14th century, when the Jews were expelled from Troyes
Additional information about the museum and its exhibitions is available through the official Maison Rachi visitor center
Exploring the Legacy of His Writings
The next hall in the exhibition is the library. The curator wanted to describe not only his daily life, but also the scope of Rashi's work. On one wall of the library are all books with Rashi's commentaries. On the opposite wall there are all the books of the Midrashim that Rashi quotes in his commentary. More than 300 books have been written about Rashi in different languages
Across the street opposite the synagogue is "the Rachi Institute". It is an academic institution for research and the study of Rashi and Judaism, offering courses in Hebrew and Arabic. There is also a kosher supermarket near the synagogue
Rashi's intellectual journey extended beyond Troyes. Before establishing his academy, he studied in the renowned Jewish centers of Worms and Mainz, communities that today form part of the UNESCO-recognized ShUM heritage route.
Beyond Rashi: Attractions Around Troyes
In Troyes we focus on Rashi, but the city and its surroundings can offer other tourist sites. Those who come to Troyes for more than one day, can travel outside the city.
The Champagne Wine Region
Troyes is the capital of the province of Champagne, known for its reputation for excellent sparkling wine, called "Champagne". Most of the roads are surrounded with vineyards. Almost every village in the area has a few wineries. There is a single winery named Drappier, that also produces kosher champagne
Museums, Shopping and Family Attractions
Art lovers will be interested in visiting the home of the famous painter Pierre Renoir in Eswar. His home still looks exactly as it did in one of his famous paintings
Families who come with children will be happy to spend at least half a day at the Niglu-Land amusement park. Shopping enthusiasts will be happy to know that there are 4 shopping centers near Troyes, including the MacArthur Glenn Outlet, considered as the largest in France
A visit focused on Rashi in Troyes offers far more than a lesson in Jewish history. It allows travelers to walk through the same streets, courtyards, and neighborhoods that shaped one of Judaism's most influential scholars. From the medieval Jewish Quarter to the modern heritage center, Rashi in Troyes provides a unique opportunity to connect with a thousand years of Jewish learning and cultural heritage.
Travelers wishing to deepen their understanding of Rashi's enduring impact can also explore the Medieval Route of Rashi in Champagne, which connects several locations associated with Jewish scholarship and history across the region.
The most convenient way to get from Israel to Troyes and to the Champagne region is on ASL airline flights to Paris, and from there by train to Troyes or by rental car. Although there are flights to Paris with other airlines, they are more expensive and take-off and land at less convenient times
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FAQ
Who was Rashi and why is Troyes important?
Rashi was the most influential Jewish commentator of the Middle Ages. Troyes was his hometown and the place where he developed many of the ideas that continue to shape Jewish study today.
Can visitors see Rashi's original house?
The original house was destroyed centuries ago during a major fire. However, visitors can still walk along the street where it once stood and see parts of the medieval urban layout.
Is there a museum dedicated to Rashi in Troyes?
Yes. The Rashi Heritage Center includes exhibitions, reconstructed rooms, and displays that explore both his daily life and scholarly achievements.
Where is Rashi buried?
Rashi was buried in the medieval Jewish cemetery of Troyes. The exact location of his grave is unknown because the cemetery was destroyed after the expulsion of the Jews.
How long should visitors spend in Troyes?
Most travelers can explore the main Jewish heritage sites in one full day. Those interested in the Champagne region may wish to stay two or three days.
What makes Troyes unique among Jewish heritage destinations?
Unlike many Jewish heritage sites that focus on tragedy or persecution, Troyes allows visitors to experience the environment where one of Judaism's greatest scholars actually lived, taught, and worked.
edited by Shelley Waltzer
(The writer was a guest of the Tourism Bureau of France in Israel, and ASL airline)