Mineralnye Vody stands as a quaint town and a renowned tourist destination in Russia, nestled amid the picturesque Caucasus mountains between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea. This region boasts four cities, with Pyatigorsk being the largest among them. Known for its well-structured tourism services, the area accommodates around 100 hotels, welcoming approximately 5 million Russian tourists annually, including 8,000 Russian-speaking Israelis

The allure of Mineralnye Vody primarily stems from its abundance of mineral springs, each distinguished by varying temperatures and mineral compositions. These springs offer specific health benefits, catering to digestive health, diabetes, and more

Among the notable attractions, the Narzannaya Gallery takes center stage in the city. This grand structure encases a prominent spring, where numerous taps dispense a variety of mineral waters straight from the earth. Surrounding the building lies a captivating public garden and a charming pedestrian street

Numerous other springs, collectively referred to as "Narzans," pepper the area. The name traces its origins to a local legend recounting the healing of a wounded Caucasian warrior by a maiden named Narzan, who tended to him with water from a spring. The legend varies among villages, each linking it to its own spring, resulting in multiple springs being named Narzans

Most bathhouses offer amenities like towels and showers, although some necessitate prior checks regarding the self-provision of towels. Once, at a bathhouse situated atop the Geduko spring, I indulged in a pool where the water bubbled at a toasty 43 degrees Celsius, while snow enveloped the surroundings at zero degrees. This unique water source contains around 20 different metals and minerals like mercury, copper, and steel, imparting a slightly oily texture. Despite the enjoyable experience, the absence of showers and towels only became apparent upon exiting

Additionally, numerous open-field mineral springs lack bathing facilities, reminiscent of the one we encountered deep within a forest on Mount Elbrus's slopes. The distinct red hue of the water owes itself to the rust that seeps from the minerals within the ground

Nature hikes

Nature enthusiasts will find an abundance of water wonders in the Mineralnye Vody area, from springs to cascading waterfalls. Initially enchanting, the multitude of waterfalls might eventually desensitize one's awe, especially considering many remain unnamed. However, a few standout falls are truly worth exploring

The "Honey Waterfall" carves its way down a mountain cliff, boasting small niches where industrious bees have crafted their hives. Rainwater cascading through these hives imparts a sweet, honeyed essence to the water below, offering a delightful taste and fragrance akin to honey candy. During winter, the cliff's bumps showcase delicate ice formations, adding to its allure

Another captivating sight is the "70 Waterfalls," where a single stream on a mountainside splinters into around seventy tributaries, creating a breathtaking tapestry of small waterfalls adorning the landscape

In winter, Mineralnye Vody transforms into a haven for ski enthusiasts. A mere two-hour drive from the city lies Mount Elbrus, the highest peak in Europe standing tall at 5,642 meters

Elbrus Mountain hosts three ski trails, one of which claims the title of Europe's longest and steepest. Along the route from the parking lots to the ski sites, numerous ski equipment rental shops line the way, sparing visitors the need to bring gear from home. Pro tip: Opt for rentals farther from the parking areas for more budget-friendly options

Surprisingly, the ski pass costs a mere 1,300 Rubles (approximately $20), setting a benchmark as one of the most affordable ski passes available

The ascent to the slopes is facilitated by cable cars, featuring three stops along the way. It's advisable to pause at any station for a breather, allowing bodies and lungs to acclimate to the thin air and biting cold. Each station houses cozy, heated cafes where visitors can secure a table by the window and relish the panoramic views. Even non-skiers can revel in the cable car journey to the mountain's summit. The crisp, invigorating air at the peak, the soft embrace of snow, and the expansive vista of snow-cloaked peaks make for an unforgettable experience. Despite a bone-chilling temperature of minus 17 degrees on the day of my visit, adequate dressing made it surprisingly tolerable

 Jeep tours 4X4

 Rway, spearheaded by Israeli entrepreneur Mr. Ronni Mordechai, presents an impressive array of 4×4 jeep tours amid breathtaking landscapes. With instructors fluent in Hebrew and English, participants even have the option of self-driving following the lead guide. Tour durations range from single-day excursions to comprehensive 8-day adventures traversing lush greenery, mountain trails, and summits

Exclusive to our "Jewish Traveler" readers, Rway offers tailor-made routes with discounted rates. These tours encompass majestic mountain vistas, sprawling valleys, enchanting waterfalls, and delectable kosher cuisine. The journey embarks from Mineralnye Vody, heading towards Bermamit Plate, reminiscent of Mount Massada, passing through the scenic "Chegem" region dotted with numerous lakes, including the stunning "Blue Lake." Volcanic gorges occasionally boast rainwater-filled pools, adding to the natural allure

Among the notable landmarks is the "Ring Mountain," characterized by a colossal ring-shaped hole in the mountain range, reminiscent of the "Keshet Cave" in the Galilee

Legend has it that a king sought a suitor for his daughter, promising her hand in marriage to the one who presented the most exquisite ring. A soldier, determined to win her hand, ascended the mountain, skillfully carving a ring-shaped formation using his sword. Impressed, the king bestowed his daughter's hand to the ingenious soldier

Exploratory jeep tracks also navigate the routes around Mount Elbrus, offering an added dimension to the adventure

During the summer season, Ronnie Mordechai expands the offerings to include hot air balloon flights, horseback riding spanning half a day to a week, woodland and mountain hikes, mountain climbing, invigorating river rafting, and even helicopter rides over natural marvels, with intermittent landings for meals and coffee

For avid shoppers, Mineralnye Vody presents a haven with relatively affordable prices. However, communication poses a challenge as locals predominantly speak Russian. Despite the language barrier, the Caucasus region boasts low crime rates, fostering a safe environment for leisurely night strolls. It's worth noting that infrastructure beyond the city center might lack modern amenities like sidewalks and street lighting. Private excursions might require essentials like toilet paper, as most restrooms feature basic facilities without running water or amenities

Local Jewish history

The rich Jewish history in the Caucasus region unfolds a compelling narrative steeped in tradition and resilience

Legend and tradition among Caucasus Jews trace their lineage to the ten tribes exiled during the destruction of the First Temple in the 8th century BCE by Nebuchadnezzar. This heritage is mentioned in the Talmud Yerushalmi, in Massechet Megillah (page 18), recalling "Rabbi Shimon Safra De-Derbent," a revered Torah scholar from Derbent. The Talmud recounts his refusal, with counsel from Rabbi Hanina, to interrupt Torah reading for translation, resulting in his dismissal

During the Middle Ages, the Caucasus served as a vital nexus for the Silk Road, drawing Jewish merchants from Persia who integrated with existing Jewish communities and established new ones. In the 7th century, the region was ruled by a Khazar king who not only admired Jews but also converted to Judaism, encouraging his people to follow suit. Ahead of their journeys, many explored "Sefer Ha-Kuzari" by Rabbi Yehuda Halevy (1139).         i

With the Muslim conquest in the 16th century, Jews faced a dire ultimatum: convert to Islam or leave. To preserve their faith, many outwardly converted while clandestinely adhering to Torah and Mitzvot, identified as "Jewish Tatis." Devout Jews who adamantly refused conversion sought refuge in remote corners of the Caucasus Mountains, forming secluded villages known as "Johorians," signifying "Mountain Jews," distinct from the "Tati Jews."     i

The 19th-century Russian conquest granted physical freedom to the Jewish communities but imposed spiritual constraints. Throughout the last century, these communities endured severe trials. Communist rule initially banned religious rituals, yet pockets of Jews clandestinely maintained Torah observance. Stalinist persecution further targeted Jewish writers and poets using the Tati-Jewish language. In 1937, Communist authorities exiled most rabbis from the Caucasus, leaving only a couple to return. Despite these challenges, Jews safeguarded Torah scrolls in their homes, conducting secret readings and clandestine teachings for children and adults

The Holocaust struck the Caucasus Jewish community in August 1942, resulting in the tragic loss of 20,000 lives. Subsequently, in the 1990s, mass immigration to Israel, totaling 80,000 individuals, further depleted these historic Jewish communities, leaving them in a state of desolation and melancholy

Zionism

The Caucasus Jewish communities harbored a deep connection to the Land of Israel long before the advent of formal Zionism. Notably, in 1900, delegates from the Caucasus region attended the Zionist Congress, making a striking impression in their distinctive farm attire and swords. Herzl, the visionary behind the Zionist movement, admired and lauded their presence

Rabbi Ya'akov Yitzhaki, serving as the Chief Rabbi of Dagestan, fervently advocated for immigration to Israel in his sermons across the Caucasus. From as early as 1876, Caucasus Jews settled in Jerusalem's Beth Israel and Givat Shaul neighborhoods. Rabbi Yitzhaki himself immigrated in 1907 and purchased 200 plots in the Wadi Lamun area near Ramla, founding the settlement "Be'er Yaakov."      I

During World War II, the Caucasus became an early German conquest by the Russians. Tragic events unfolded as Jews were rounded up, not sent to camps in Poland, but confined in multiple locations. Forced to dig a mass grave, they faced daily massacres, with approximately 7,500 Jews from the Mineralnye Vody area losing their lives. Plans are underway for a memorial to honor their memory at one of these mass graves

The 1990s saw a significant exodus of Caucasus Jews to Israel when Soviet restrictions eased. This mass immigration marked the near depletion of these historic communities, many fading into obscurity

Notably, Israeli General Yekutiel Adam, a member of the community, was tragically killed in the Lebanon War in 1982, a few meters away next to me.

His memory remains poignant, especially for those who shared moments alongside him. In a heartbreaking incident during the conflict near Beirut Airport, General Adam was fatally shot while investigating seemingly abandoned houses. This devastating loss echoes as a testament to the sacrifices made by individuals dedicated to their homeland and ideals

Jewish sites

The Jewish heritage sites in the Caucasus region carry immense historical significance and cultural pride

Pyatigorsk honors Joseph Trumpeldor, a celebrated figure born and raised in the city before he immigrated to Israel. The forthcoming Museum of Caucasian Judaism, within the Jewish Community Center, will feature a substantial section dedicated to Trumpeldor. Efforts are underway, including investigations in municipal archives, to pinpoint the exact location of Trumpeldor's house, destined to become a significant tourist attraction for Israelis

The city boasts two active synagogues, one holding three daily Minyan prayers and another operational solely on Saturdays

The Ge'ula Jewish Community Center stands as a recent addition, housing a burgeoning synagogue. Daily morning and evening prayers are conducted here. While the synagogue's construction remains ongoing, its interiors still lack plaster and paint, featuring a PVC-covered floor

On the wall facing Jerusalem -the southern wall- a huge PVC poster with a photo of the Kotel, the Western Wall, almost life-size. It is 3 meters high and about 30 meters long

Prayer services follow Sephardic customs, employing the "Yechave Da'at" prayer book with transliterations in Cyrillic Russian and translations into Russian and Johorit languages

An essential addition to the center is a Mikveh, situated on the lower floor—a significant development considering the absence of a Mikveh in the Caucasus for a century. Local women previously used rivers, even in freezing winters, referring to these dips as "Covahu" or "Azure."     I

 

 

 

Address: Palbemiro Tolbyatti 85

A newly established yeshiva in Pyatigorsk caters to around 30 students aged 18 to 30, mostly locals with a few from Israel. Adjacent to the Russian Army Victory Memorial and close to the expansive lake park, the yeshiva hosts daily prayers in its Beit Midrash, welcoming local Jews and visiting tourists

     

Although no kosher restaurant exists in the Russian Caucasus, obtaining kosher food remains feasible. During the summer, two local hotels transform their kitchens into kosher facilities overseen by Mashgichim, students from the yeshiva. Additionally, the yeshiva kitchen offers Glatt kosher food and catering for traveler groups coordinated through Rway, requiring reservations at least a month in advance

Jewish cemeteries in the region are well-maintained, serving as poignant testaments to history. Exploring these sites unveils not just ancient tombstones but also the rich Jewish history interwoven with the Caucasus and nearby cities around Mineralnye Vody

An upcoming Jewish museum within the Ge'ula community center will showcase photographs depicting Jewish life in the Caucasus, memorialize Holocaust events in the area, and pay homage to Joseph Trumpeldor and his enduring legacy

   

Special Jewish Traditions

The mountain Jews have unique customs traditions and foods

On every Rosh Chodesh they have a "Ross Nugma" custom, where women splash water on the doorframe and handle, to protect the home and the family who lives there. On the eve of Rosh Chodesh, the children do not take a shower

Some Jewish families have the custom of combining a Bar Mitzvah and a wedding in the same ceremony (not to the same children). This strange custom is because during the communist period, Bar Mitzvah ceremonies were restricted and weddings were allowed. So to cover the Bar Mitzvah, they combined it with wedding celebrations. Even though Bar Mitzvah is allowed nowadays, many families still practice the old custom

On Chanukah, I was given the traditional food of a Caucasian Jew named "Osh Hanukkahi". It’s rice cooked with meat and pumpkin. The cook explained to me that this dish is related to Chanukah because of the orange color that symbolizes the sun and the Chanukah candles

In the month of Nissan they celebrate "Amisali", which means "a spring candle". young people light a fire (as we do on Lag Ba'omer), and dance around it. They are jumping above the flames while singing a special Joharic song: " We'll light a fire, and will escort the spring holiday, and all our enemies will disappear".       i

Their Mimuna is called "Govgil", which means "redemption". They invite neighbors and relatives to eat a special meal consisting of rice with sweet dried fruits. The dried fruits symbolize the richness of the soil and economic prosperity. They have a special Piyut: "Today we entered the Day of Redemption, and tomorrow with the help of Prophet Daniel and our holy Dinah we will meet in Jerusalem". Toward the end of the meal, they put fresh grass on the stove, and greeted in Johorit: "May the old go away, and new and fresh will be sent to us by G-d".         i

On Shavuot, the mountain Jews have a tradition of eating baked bread with cheese called "Pedi" and "Lobush Tothohi". They also make rice with milk called "Shir Pelov", and a special halvah called "Chasido".      i

They have many other unique customs, which are described in the machzor for the Tishrei holidays, "Ohaley Ya'akov," which was composed about 120 years ago by Rabbi Ya'akov Yitzhaki. The Jerusalem writer, David Moshe Gaon (father of Yehoram Gaon), knew him personally, and wrote warm words about him in his book "Jews of the East in Israel".       i