Bulgaria is emerging as a popular destination for travelers in the current era of the pandemic. Israelis, in particular, are seizing the opportunity to explore this beautiful country. Many flights from Ben Gurion Airport to Bulgaria have been fully booked in recent weeks, as travelers rediscover Bulgaria's charm. Before the pandemic, Bulgaria used to welcome around 200,000 Israeli visitors annually, and now they are starting to return

Most Israeli tourists flock to the resort towns of Varna and Burgas for a serene vacation. For some, this trip holds special significance, as they have ancestral roots in Bulgaria. Many Israelis visit their family's original homeland, creating a unique connection

While most visitors enjoy Bulgaria's "Sun Beach" strip, there is so much more to discover. From hiking in the lush green mountains to enjoying water parks, promenade clubs, vibrant nightclubs, and casinos, Bulgaria has something for everyone

However, not everyone is aware of Bulgaria's rich Jewish history, which has had a profound impact on the Jewish world. One cannot discuss Jewish history over the last 500 years without mentioning the influential "Shulchan Aruch" codex of Halacha. This monumental work was written by Rabbi Yosef Karo, who served as the chief rabbi of the city of Nikopol in Bulgaria and established the "Beit Yosef" Yeshiva there. Later in his life, he emigrated to Eretz Israel and published his writings in Safed. In Bulgaria, he also composed "Kesef Mishneh" "Avkat Rochel" and more

Several generations later, Rabbi Eliezer Papo, the rabbi of Silistra in Bulgaria, authored the moral book "Pele Yoetz" which is still studied in Hesder Yeshivas today. Rabbi Tuvia Ben Eliezer, known for the book "Lekach Tov" lived in Kastoria

Bulgaria boasts numerous Jewish heritage sites, some of which are documented in the ancient travelogue "Benjamin of Tudela." Surprisingly, the Bulgarian Ministry of Tourism has published extensive booklets about various tourist attractions, but they have overlooked the Jewish heritage sites, even in their booklet on pilgrimage in Bulgaria. In this article, we aim to fill this gap cover in this article

What We Can Discover

For Jewish travelers visiting Bulgaria, we recommend renting a car for at least one day to explore these significant sites:      i

Sofia: Visit the Central Synagogue, one of the largest in Europe, with a rich history. It was built in 1905. Was utilized for praying by Jews lived in the city center and the nearby Jewish neighborhood "Agada". Even today, Sephardic-version minyanim are held there 3 times a day

Sephardic-version minyanim are held there 3 times a day

On the second floor of the synagogue is the Jewish Museum, which is operated by the organization "SHALOM". It exhibits two thousand years of Jewish culture in Bulgaria, a survey of the various communities and their religious tools. It shows 2 permanent exhibitions- "Jewish communities in Bulgaria", and "Saving Bulgarian Jews during the Holocaust". One of the museum's exhibitions deals with the synagogue as a spiritual center since the Turkish rule in the 19th century, and presents documents and photographs of the chief rabbis of Bulgaria

The synagogue is located in central Sofia near Sveta Nedelia Square, at the corner of Ekzarh Yosif and Washington streets

There was also a large Ashkenazi synagogue, built by deportees from Hungary. Today it houses the offices of the Jewish community administration. Address: corner of Ekzarh Yosif and Budapest streets

Until the Holocaust, ten synagogues of two types operated in Sofia. "El Kal"- This is what the synagogues with a large prayer hall were called, and 'El Midrash"- which were very small, like a kind of shtiblach. Among the "El Midrash" was the synagogue of the mute people, called "El Midrash di los Modicos". Or the synagogue "De los los Rohatsim" of the "bathers", members of a Hevra Kadisha burial society. And many more Shtiblach that almost all ceased to exist

The Jewish Cultural Center is an information center for researchers and tourists, run by the Shalom organization, which also houses the Jewish Sunday School and the editorial office of the local Jewish newspaper "Jewis Gazette". Address: Vazrazhdane Square 50

A monument to the rescue of Bulgarian Jews during the Holocaust stands in front of the Parliament building, next to the Museum of Arts. It is seen as a hugged couple with a Star of David symbol between them. An identical monument was erected in Tel Aviv about two years ago, in the Charles Clore Garden. It was initiated by Mrs. Rumiana Bachvarova, before she nominated as Bulgaria's ambassador to Israel. Benjamin Netanyahu and the Prime Minister of Bulgaria also attended the inauguration of the monument

 

It is also worth visiting the statue of Dimitar Peshev, the vice-speaker of parliament during the Holocaust, who was the head of the opposition to the deportation of Jews to the Nazi extermination camps

The Jewish cemetery has a mass mound in memory of anti-fascist Jews

There're 2 kosher restaurants in Sofia: The "Jerusalem" restaurant (Maria Luiza 2 str), and the restaurant in Beit Chabad (Stara Planina 38

Varna: The Ashkenazi synagogue was established in 1908, and today serves as an office building, which also houses the Chabad house. After World War II, it was nationalized and served as a boxing club, but was returned to the Jewish community a few years ago. Address: Ticha 5

The Sephardic synagogue was larger and more impressive than the Ashkenazi. Built in 1890 in Gothic and Moorish style. Its interior walls were decorated with beautiful frescoes. But it mostly half-ruined by now. Only the 3 entrance portals have been preserved. After World War II the building was nationalized and used as a granary, and was abandoned. There are plans to renovate it as well

In the garden that surrounds the Museum of Archeology stands a monument of gratitude to the rescue of Bulgarian Jews during the Holocaust. In addition, near the port hangs a memorial plaque to local brave sailors who transported about 10,000 Ma'apilim immigrants on their way to Israel during and after the Holocaust

Burgas: A magnificent synagogue was built in 1909. At the time it was compared to the Florentine Synagogue. On its inner walls were paintings of figures from the Bible, in bright colors and in the style accepted in churches but not synagogues. Today the synagogue building is used as the City Art Gallery. Next to it was a small building called "The Midrash", where they prayed on Sabbaths and weekdays, while the main synagogue was used only on holidays and for weddings. Kosher meals we can get at Beit Chabad and the nearby Globus Hotel

Silistra – The chief Rabbi of this city was Rabbi Eliezer Papo, the author of the book "Pele Yoetz". He was buried on the banks of the Danube. For us, his tomb is sacred. Every year in the day of his death (Yahrzeit) on 18th day of the month of Elul, thousands of Chassidim from Israel and Europe are flying to Varna for a traditional celebration on his tomb

In the introduction to his book "Pele Yoetz", he wrote: "Everyone who will come to my grave in purity after immersion in the mikveh, and prays with a broken heart, I guarantee him that his prayer will be accepted". Rabbi Papo passed away in 1826, and the mikveh next to his tomb was demolished a long time ago. But about ten years ago a modern mikveh was built near the tomb. The construction was financed by an Israeli owner of casinos in Burgas, in order to attract ultra-Orthodox Haredim to gamble in his casino after immersion, with hope that they will succeed in gambling thanks to the blessing of the Rabbi. Address: Kapitan Krastev 15

  Nikopol – The municipal park is named after Rabbi Yosef Karo, who was the city's chief rabbi for 20 years until 1536. Here he wrote his books, including the "Shulchan Aruch". He established the "Beit Yosef" Yeshiva here, which at the time was considered the most important yeshiva in Europe. The yeshiva operated until the middle of the twentieth century, and served as the synagogue "Maran Beit Yosef". Today no trace of it remains. In 2012, a commemorative plaque in his memory was inaugurated in the garden. The chief rabbi of Israel, as well as many European rabbis and the Israeli ambassador attended the inauguration event

  Plovdil – Here was the second largest Jewish community in the country. The "Zion" Synagogue was built in 1876 in the center of the Jewish Quarter. The 3 synagogues in Plovdil were abandoned and destroyed, but "Zion" was renovated in 2003, and is worshiped mainly during the Tishrei holidays. Today it serves as a Jewish cultural center. In 1944, David Ben-Gurion was welcomed in this synagogue

Remains of an ancient synagogue from the Roman Empire were discovered in the Old Town of Plovdil

The Memorial of Gratitude is a statue in shape of Shofar, inscribed in Bulgarian and Hebrew and English. Dedicated to the Bulgarian society that saved 50,000 Jews from death during the holocaust. The Archaeological Museum also displays pieces of mosaic in a Roman-era synagogue, as well as the remains of a modern synagogue

  Vidin – In northwestern Bulgaria, on the banks of the Danube River, there is a huge synagogue, which is currently being renovated. It is the second largest synagogue in Bulgaria, and is similar to the synagogue in Budapest. In the four corners of the roof are impressive towers. Most of the local Jewish community immigrated to Israel in 1950, and the magnificent structure was abandoned. In 1980, the JDC and the Jewish community donated the building to the municipality for a concert hall. The municipality committed to dedicate 2 rooms in the building to the history of the of Vidin Jews and a prayer room

In Vidin, it is worthwhile to see also the monument commemorating the operation to save the members of the Jewish community from deportation to the Nazis extermination camps during the Holocaust

  Samokov – This city once had a unique synagogue, called "Saraf House". Its external shape was like the model of the Temple in Jerusalem, according to a technical specification written in the Mishnah of Masechet Midot. The synagogue was built by the Arieh family, merchants and bankers from Vienna. One of its sons was the Minister of Finance of Bulgaria in the early 19th century. The synagogue was built of wood, and it caught fire in the 19th century. A large stone synagogue was built on its site, but not according to the original plans. After the city's Jews immigrated to Israel in the 1950's, the place was abandoned. The impressive roof is almost undamaged. But local vandals completely destroyed the interior of the synagogue and its furniture

In the 1960s the "SHALOM" organization began to renovate the place, but its condition was too difficult to repair. In 2018, the building was transferred to the municipality, which committed to restore its splendor. When the renovations will be completed, a cultural center will open there

  Karnobat – There is the largest Jewish cemetery in the Balkans, with 715 gravestones. 108 of them are magnificent marble sarcophagi, decorated with stone ornaments and inscriptions in Hebrew. This style of burial is considered very rare in Judaism. All the tombstones turn east toward Jerusalem. In the 30s of the last century they stopped burying there

These are just a few of the many Jewish heritage sites which I received information about from the Bulgarian Embassy in Tel Aviv and the Shalom organization. More detailed photos and descriptions of Jewish heritage sites will be posted after I'll visit Bulgaria myself

Jewish History in Bulgaria

Jewish history in Bulgaria began in the times of the First Temple. In Bulgaria, a tombstone was found from the second century on which is written "Archi-Synagogue Josephus", meaning "Joseph Head of the Synagogue". The golden age of the Jews of Bulgaria began in the 12th century. The queen of Bulgaria in the 14th century was a Jew named Sarah Maternovo. This can indicate the higher position of the Jews, since it is unlikely that the king married the lower class

The original Jews of the Balkans were Romanyotes. In 1374 many Jews deported from Hungary arrived in Bulgaria. They founded an Ashkenazi community, and established a synagogue that operated for more than 500 years until the Holocaust. Another wave of Jews arrived at the deportation from Spain in 1492-3. One of them was Rabbi Yosef Karo. They changed the Jewish communities in Bulgaria, and became dominant. Under their influence, the Bulgarians Jews are praying in the Sephardic version. Jewish Q&A books from that time give the impression that there were disputes between the various communities. The Romanyotes claimed seniority due to their old earnestness, and of the Sephardic community due to their larger population

During the TACH-TAT riots of 1648, soldiers of Bogdan Khmelnitsky arrived Bulgaria with Jewish prisoners of war. The Jews of Bulgaria redeemed them with great wealth, and most of them settled in Bulgaria

In the Russian war against the Ottomans (1877–1878), Russian soldiers carried out pogroms against Jews with the help of local gentiles. During the Balkan War (1912), many Jews joined the Bulgarian army, and some of them rose to the ranks of generals and colonels. The Bulgarian army had two brigades of Jewish fighters. 277 Jewish soldiers were killed in battle. The Prince of Bulgaria greatly appreciated his Jewish soldiers, saying of them that "they are the true descendants of their Hasmonean ancestors."     i

At the end of the 19th century, Zionist organizations operated in Bulgaria, led by 'Chovevey Zion'. Even Herzl visited Bulgaria to encourage them. Bulgarian delegations attended the first Zionist Congress in Basel

During the First World War, many Jews enlisted in the Bulgarian army, and the percentage of those who fell among them was greater than their relative share of the population. The Jewish colonel Avraham Tagar is considered a national war hero there

One of the unique customs of Bulgarian Jews is to hold a combined Bar-Mitzvah ceremony on Rosh Hashanah in the synagogues for all the boys who have reached the age 13 since last year. Not on each boy's birthday. During the communist regime it was forbidden to keep the religious precepts. Enormous assimilation and  intermarriage began. The local Jews did not even make Circumcision to their sons.  The Hanukkah candle lighting ceremony with Hebrew songs in one of the kindergartens was defined as "national deviations". The kindergarten teacher and community leaders were sent to prison

The Holocaust period

Before World War II, 48,000 Jews lived in Bulgaria, about half of them in Sofia. The King of Bulgaria during the Holocaust is considered controversial. On the one hand, he made an alliance with Nazi Germany, and invited the Wehrmacht to operate freely in his country. During the war, the Jews were persecuted, and were subject to the "Law for the Protection of the Nation" inspired by the "Nuremberg Laws". About 9,000 Jews from Sofia were deported to the peripheral villages and towns, and later hundreds of Jews from other cities as well. Some were sent to concentration camps in Bulgaria. The Jews were required to wear a yellow badge, and were taken to forced labor. Bulgaria conquered Thrace and Macedonia, and the king handed over the Jews to the Germans, who murdered them all in Treblinka

On the other hand, the King tried to save at least the Jews of "Old Bulgaria" from the clutches of his Nazi allies. At first he refused the Germans' demand to send the Jews to extermination camps in Poland. But he failed to prevent the deportation of the Jews to the periphery, from where they were planned to be sent to their deaths. But then, the villagers and pastors in the churches protested against the deportation of the Jews, creating counter-pressure on the pro-Nazi regime. The locals also guarded the homes of the Jews and their property, and did not loot and take over as was done in other European countries

The Eichmann trial revealed that there were plans to send 5,000 Bulgarian Jewish children to Israel, but Eichmann prevented the initiative. Bottom line- the Jews of Bulgaria were not murdered in the Holocaust, although they did not enjoy life

After the Holocaust, a wave of Zionist immigration on Maapilim ships began in Bulgaria. The largest of these vessels was 'Tripoli', boarded 700 revisionist immigrants. Many immigrant ships sailed from the port of Varna. The Maapilim ship 'Salvador' sank on the way with 238 immigrants on board

The day of the declaration of the State of Israel on May 14, 1948, was celebrated in the Bulgarian Jewish communities with parades of singing and dancing in the streets, while waving Israeli flags, and with the participation of the heads of government. At that time, mass immigration to Israel increased, and by the 1950's, 90% of Bulgarian Jews had immigrated to Israel. Newspapers from the 1950s wrote that the lack of Jews greatly adversely affected the life of trade and academia in Bulgaria. Until then they had not properly appreciated how essential the Jews were to Bulgaria's economy. Today, only about 5,000 Jews live in Bulgaria

Most Bulgarian Olim immigrants settled in Jaffa, Ramla, and Lod. Others established villages and kibbutzim such as the kibbutzim Ramat Hashofet, Mesilot and Maabarot, the Moshavot Yavniel and Har Tov, the moshavim Beit Hanan, Ginaton, Tzipori, Kfar Hanagid, Safsufa, and more

Bulgarian Jews influenced Israeli culture. Boris Schatz, founder of Bezalel institute in Jerusalem, founded the Bulgarian Academy of Fine Arts in Sofia. The "Tzadikov Choir" was founded in Sofia in 1910, and after the immigration of the Jews in the 1950s, it was renewed in Israel by the conductor Yitzhak Graziani. The father of Gabi Ashkenazi, the former chief of staff and current foreign minister, was born and raised in Bulgaria

There is no original anti-Semitism in Bulgaria, and Bulgarians do not treat Jews as a minority. Despite this, it is recommended not to walk around in public with a Kipah and a Tsitsit. Many Arabs and Iranians also visit or live in Bulgaria. About eight years ago, a suicide Muslim bomber blew himself up at Burgas Airport, next to a bus of Israeli tourists who had just landed. 6 Israelis were killed and more than 30 were injured in this terror attack

In Bulgaria there are 3 kosher restaurants, in Chabad houses in Sofia and Varna. In the winter, a kosher Mehadrin restaurant also opens in the Chabad House at the Platinum Hotel at the Bansko ski resort, which is popular with the religious public in Israel

Bulgaria is a multifaceted country with a rich Jewish heritage waiting to be explored. Discover the depth of this heritage, and embark on a journey through time, culture, and history in this captivating Eastern European destination.

Thanks to the Bulgarian Embassy in Israel and to "Shalom" organization in Sofia

for the info in the research for this article