Nestled in the heart of the Mediterranean, Rhodes beckons explorers with its captivating tapestry of history, entwined with the Land of Israel. A masterpiece of antiquity, the Old City's formidable walls bear witness to the legacy of the Crusaders, the valiant Order of St. John, who sought refuge here during the tumultuous 14th and 15th centuries

While many travelers flock to Christian historical sites and popular attractions like Simi Island, Butterfly Valley, Springs Valley, and Lindos Town, few have had the privilege of unraveling the untold stories hidden within the ancient walls of Rhodes. Embark on a journey through time in the Jewish Quarter, guided by experts who'll transport you to what feels like one of the holiest cities in Israel. Mano Cruises, the gateway to my recent Rhodes adventure, offers an exhilarating walking tour of the Jewish Quarter

Delving into the Depths of Jewish History

The Jewish community in Rhodes boasts a rich and profound history, dating back to the Second Temple period, as evoked in the Book of Maccabees. Coins bearing the likeness of Hashmonean king John Horcanus, circa 200 BC, were discovered in the heart of the ancient Jewish quarter, underlining the community's deep-rooted presence. History further whispers in the wind, with Romans instructing the people of Rhodes to treat their Jewish inhabitants with respect

In the 12th century, the esteemed Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela visited Rhodes and documented the lives of two local rabbis, Rabbi Hananel and Rabbi Eliyahu, as well as the trials faced by the 400 Jews living under the rule of the knights

The turning point in the island's history arrived in 1492, when Jews were expelled from Spain. Many found refuge in Rhodes, then part of the Ottoman Empire, heeding the Sultan's call to invigorate the economy while enjoying religious freedom. The Jewish community burgeoned to 4,000 strong, with the Spanish deportees gradually outnumbering the original Romaniotes. In this era, Ladino replaced Greek, and the Jewish Quarter assumed the name "Juderia."     i

Rabbi Moshe Yisrael, the illustrious Kabbalist from Safed, descended upon Rhodes during his mission to North Africa. His captivating teachings resonated with the local community, resulting in his appointment as Chief Rabbi. This marked the genesis of a dynastic legacy spanning 12 generations, which lasted for nearly two centuries, until the dark shadow of the Holocaust descended

As the 20th century dawned, the Jewish community numbered around 10,000. However, the decline of the Ottoman Empire and the rise of Fascist Italy led to the persecution of Jews. Many youth sought refuge abroad, founding new communities in faraway lands such as Rhodesia and the Belgian Congo. Tragically, the Nazi Germans seized control of Rhodes in 1943, marking the end of an era

Rhodes is a treasure trove of Jewish heritage, with 21 remarkable sites awaiting your exploration. These historical gems, most situated within a one-mile radius, are best uncovered on a captivating half-day walking tour

1- The Jewish Gate  

Rhodes, a living testament to history's tapestry, beckons you through 'The Jews Gate,' a hidden entrance to the Old City that bears echoes of ancient Jaffa and Ramla in its limestone brick walls and arches. Leave the bustling Marine Gate behind and step into the Jewish Quarter through this captivating portal on the city's northeast side

2- The wide street

The beating heart of the Jewish Quarter, "La Kaye Ancha," aptly named "the wide street," thrived as the epicenter of Jewish life. Here, joyous celebrations like Simchat Torah, Lag Ba'Omer, and the unique "Baptism of the Bride" ("Il Banyo di Nubia") rituals unfolded. The journey to the wedding day commenced with the bride's procession along this street, serenaded by the traditional Piyyut "Mochachika Ista in Il Kanyi," echoing this tradition's lineage in contemporary Israeli weddings

As you stroll down the wide street, cast your eyes upward to the second-floor level. Some houses bear balconies, designed for the festive Sukkot holiday. Ahead, a square graced by a fountain adorned with three bronze seahorse statues awaits your discovery. Originally erected during Italian rule, it marks the entrance to the commercial area, once exclusively owned by the Jewish community

In the center of the wide street there is a square with a fountain of 3 bronze seahorses' statues. The statue was placed here during the Italian rule, to replace another statue that stood here. This square is intended to mark the end of the Juderia residential area, and from it begins the commercial area of ​​shops, all of which were once owned by Jews

3- Kahal Kadosh Shalom Synagogue

Rhodes boasts a true gem: the "Kahal Kadosh Shalom" Synagogue, Greece's oldest synagogue. Originally constructed by Crusaders in the 15th century to house wheat grains, it was soon acquired and transformed into a sacred place of worship by the Jewish community. The elegant mosaic floor, a striking blend of white and black pebbles, creates a captivating atmosphere, surrounding the synagogue's two Torah Arks and the central Torah reading table

A Jew donated a beautiful sink for Netilath Yadayim of Cohanim, to wash hands before blessing ceremonies. Above it is engraved in stone: "To Avraham Ben Zakiv, a right of honor and grace will be found to God we desire. Gvir made a beautiful sink and also a bath. At the Hebrew year KPLZ". From this we understand that the synagogue was opened in 1577

© Aron Hasson

The synagogue is impressive by its beauty. The floor is made of a mosaic of white and black pebbles, arranged in geometric shapes. It has two Torah Arks. The Torah reading table stands in the center of the synagogue

For generations, the women's section (Ezrat Nashim) was housed in adjacent rooms, while in 1935, a balcony was added along the synagogue's walls to accommodate the Ezrat Nashim. Plaques bearing the names of Holocaust victims find their place at the foot of the Western Wall, a poignant reminder of history's weight. While the synagogue mainly serves as a tourist attraction today, the Jewish community of Rhodes, numbering just 40, lives in modern neighborhoods. Headed by Mrs. Carmen Cohen, the community graciously opens its doors for religious gatherings

Descendants of Rhodes' Jewish community, now residing in Israel and South Africa, continue to cherish their ancestral heritage. The synagogue plays host to bar mitzvahs and weddings of these distant relatives, who journey here to honor their roots. Each year, during Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur, the descendants return to Rhodes, filling the synagogue with echoes of prayer and tradition

Address: Simmiou & Dosiadou Alley

4- Explore the Jewish Museum

The Jewish Museum invites you to explore history in the rooms once designated for the women's section of the Kehila Shalom synagogue. At the entrance, an 800-year-old Torah scroll is showcased in a transparent case, behind which lies the worshippers' mikveh. The museum unveils cabinets filled with diverse relics, displaying traditional clothing of Rhodes' Jewish community from a century ago, including an exquisite wedding dress and unique wooden women's shoes. For a guided tour, you can use the museum's mobile phone app. To arrange your visit, contact them in advance via phone or email

The museum has developed a mobile phone app that provides us with a private guided tour. It is advisable to arrange the visit in advance by phone +30 6932980011 or by email cohen.carmen@gmail.com

5- The Great Romanyotes Synagogue

The ancient synagogue "Kahal Grande," founded in 1480, bore witness to nearly five centuries of Romaniote traditions. Tragically, it fell victim to a British bombing during World War II, targeting German warships anchored in the nearby port. The remains of the walls, left standing after the bombing, eventually crumbled in 1957

 © Aron Hasson

The ruins of the synagogue became an urban landfill, and garbage was piled up a meter and a half high. In 2003 the Greek government cleaned the place, bringing it to its current state. The original flooring remained in place, as well as the skeleton and foundations of the walls, and an elevated stone platform on which the ark stood

Address: Corner of Thisesos & Kishtinou streets

6- Elhadef Garden

Adjacent to the remnants of the Romaniotes Synagogue lies a tranquil avenue of trees, culminating in the serene Elhadef Garden. This idyllic space bears the name of Salomon Elhadef, a Jewish banker of significant renown and a devoted philanthropist. His benevolence extended not only to fellow Jews but also to the wider community, earning him respect from non-Jews as well. A poignant connection to history emerges as we remember his nephew, the Mayor of Tiberias, who tragically fell victim to an Arab assassination during the turmoil of 1936

7- Talmud Torah "Beit Yaakov

At the heart of Elhadef Park, a building with a unique history stands as a testament to the eclectic past of the Jewish community. Although traditionally "Beit Yaakov" is associated with educational institutions for girls, in Rhodes, it took on a distinctive role as a Talmud Torah for boys. This institution was founded in 1864, thanks to the generous contribution of Baron Jacob Rothschild, who lent his name to this distinguished establishment

A marble sign is stamped on the building:         i

8- Tikkun Khatzot Synagogue

© Aron Hasson

The affluent members of the Jewish community in Rhodes once constructed an exclusive synagogue known as the "Kehila de los Rikos" or the "Congregation of the Rich." Adorned with imported ceramic tiles from Portugal, this synagogue radiated opulence. In its final generation before the Holocaust, even the less fortunate Jews found solace within its walls. Regrettably, the synagogue remains closed to visitors today

Address: 8 Gavala Street

9- Kahal Midrash Kamudo Synagogue

It was built in 1865 by the banker Avraham Kamudo from Istanbul, who came to open a branch of his bank in Rhodes

© Aron Hasson

Today the synagogue is closed to the public, and we can only see the front door. The house is currently used as the residence of a local family that maintains its privacy

Address: Vizantiou Street

10- Holocaust Memorial

Journey to the western end of the wide street, where you'll find "Jewish Saints' Square". Before the Holocaust, a vibrant Jewish community of 6,000 souls thrived in Rhodes, only to face the horrors of deportation to Nazi extermination camps. Out of this darkness, a mere 151 survivors returned to Rhodes, with many later emigrating to Israel. In memory of the lost lives and the Jewish houses obliterated during World War II bombings, the municipality transformed the ruins into a public garden. At its heart stands a poignant Holocaust memorial, shaped like a hexagonal pillar, in remembrance of the six million. Each side of the monument bears inscriptions in various languages

The memorial's unveiling took place on July 23, 2002, marking the fateful date of the expulsion of the Jews of Rhodes and Kos (July 23, 1944)

   i

11- The Jewish Business Center Square

As the wide street converges into a spacious square, you find yourself in what was once Rhodes' bustling commercial epicenter. At its core, a fountain from the Italian period adds charm. What sets this square apart is its historical Jewish ownership; every shop here was once a Jewish enterprise

Two prominent buildings grace the west side of the square. To the left stood Salomon Elhadef's bank, while the hexagonal edifice to the right belonged to Yitzhak Elhadef's bank. The ground floor arches once sheltered the shops of money changers, including Yosef Chai Franco, Hazan, and Mizrahi. The right corner hosted the city's largest textile emporium, owned by David Hasson. On the square's left flank, you'd find the shoe stores of Bechor Hazan and Eliakim Cohen

Further down the wide street, towards the sea gate, stood a grand edifice that housed the banks of the Nutrika and Menashe families, adding yet another layer to the rich tapestry of Jewish life in Rhodes

12- The Rabbinical Academy and Beit Midrash

© Aron Hasson

The Beit Midrash served as a spiritual epicenter not just for the Jews of Rhodes but also garnered recognition from beyond Greece's borders. Yeshiva students hailing from Rhodes and neighboring countries, as well as a select group of teaching staff, rabbis, and professors, congregated here. While the building faced significant damage from an earthquake, Turkish authorities undertook renovations and handed it over to the Jewish community

Address: The eastern end of the wide street.

13- Alliance School

Constructed in 1903 through Baron Edmund Rothschild's benevolent donation, the Alliance School held a vital place in Rhodes' educational landscape. A decade later, Italian rule necessitated a name change to the "Israeli-Italian School." The Jewish community added a unique touch by building a drinking water fountain on the school's fence in honor of Italian General Giovanni Amalgio, as indicated by an Italian inscription that reads: "To General Giovanni Amalgio. From the grateful Jewish community. 1913."        i© Aron Hasson

The sign also has the Alliance emblem, and below it is written in Hebrew the word "one".   i

Address: Kisthniou Street

Jewish signs on the houses

As you wander through the alleyways where the Jewish population once thrived, keep an eye out for remnants of history. Some houses bear signs that once held a mezuzah, while others still display Hebrew and Ladino inscriptions celebrating the house's owners and their contributions to the community. Embark on this delightful scavenger hunt, especially if you're exploring with your family, to uncover these hidden gems

14- Elhadef House

Further up the alley where the Kahal Kadosh Shalom synagogue is located, is also the residence of the wealthy banker Yitzhak Elhadef, which included 3 adjoining houses. He donated his homes to the Jewish community. On the wall of the house hangs a marble sign that says Ladino: "In the name of G-d, the contribution of Yitzhak Elhadaf to the Jewish community of Rhodes. The top floor was donated in memory of his late parents, Yaakov Elhadaf and Rachel Elhadaf. The first floor of House 1 was donated in honor of Rebecca Elhadaf. Incomes from renting House 3 will be transferred to the Repectorio School, in memory of the grandfather Chay Bechor Salomon Elhadaf and Grandma Esther Elhadaf. Incomes from House 5 will be donated to the rabbinical seminary for rabbis of this community. Rhodes, December 14, 1935. The Jewish community is grateful".       i

15- The Geniza Warehouse

© Aron Hasson

Situated next to the Kahal Midrash Kamudo Synagogue, the Geniza warehouse was more than just a storage facility; it served as the office and warehouse for the Hevra Kadisha, the burial society. This is where worn holy books destined for burial found their resting place. Coffins were also stored here before funerals. Above the front door, you'll spot a small white marble plaque inscribed in Hebrew, marking the date: "Today is Rosh Hodesh Nissan, the year 1767, the creation of the world".       i

Address: 4 Vizantiou Street

18- Bikur Cholim House

The charitable organizations of the Jewish community, Bikur Cholim and Ozer Dalim, shared the same building. An exquisite marble sign in Ladino and Hebrew letters, removed from the wall, is now on display in the Jewish Museum. It reads: "Established by the sick visit fund. Maple 5684".       i

17- Beit Yosef

Beit Yosef was once the residence of banker Joseph Nutrika, who bequeathed his wealth to the poor and, particularly, the children of the Jewish community. He died childlessly, and in his will bequeathed his home to the Jewish community. The community named the house "el Datilar" (the religious). In his will, he left his home to the Jewish community. Above the stone gate at the entrance, an inscription in Hebrew reads: "The houses around this courtyard are dedicated to the benefit of the community's institutions. Twenty-first of the month of Sivan, 5766". Another sign in Spanish and Ladino, written in Hebrew letters, commemorates the donation by philanthropists Yosef Nutrika and his wife Bolisa

© Aron Hasson

Above a side gate to the same compound is another sign, in which is written in Spanish and in Ladino by Hebrew letters: "Dedicate! A house donated by philanthropists Yosef Nutrika and his wife Bolisa, one of three houses donated to the Jewish community. (1915)

Address: Corner of Perikleous & Ikarou streets

Jewish sites outside the walls

18- The new Jewish cemetery

The original Jewish cemetery, located near the Cuscino Gate in "La Puerta de la Ciudad," faced a somber fate. In 1938, the antisemitic Italian governor ordered its demolition to make way for his own palace. The Jewish community was allocated a new space adjoining the Kalithias Muslim Cemetery, where thousands of graves from the old cemetery were meticulously relocated

On the inside of the eastern fence, to the left of the entrance, tombstones of 18 rabbis of Rhodes have been re-erected throughout the ages. The oldest tombstone is from 1500. Jews from Rhodes and the United States financed the transfer of their relatives' bones to the new cemetery. More unidentified and unrelated gravestones were moved by the community without the deceased, and were placed on the paths in the new cemetery

© Aron Hasson

Wander among the tombstones, each of which reveals the history and professions of those laid to rest, from Baal-Tekiha blowers to fishermen, blacksmiths, tailors, and shoemakers. A Holocaust memorial was erected in 1949, bearing witness to the tragic events of World War II

On the north side of the cemetery are buried about 150 "new" dead from 1938 onwards, and the victims of the airstrikes in World War II. A Holocaust memorial was erected there in 1949

On the outskirts of the cemetery, there is a "Heder Tahara" (purification room), and in the adjoining rooms there is a kind of small museum with a selection of gravestones brought from the old Jewish cemetery

For those of us staying in Rhodes for more than one day, I recommend spending one afternoon wandering among the many tombstones, and dedicating thoughts to a glorious community that is no more existing

Address: Kaliatias Road, on the promenade, about a kilometer and a half from the southern corner of the Old City Wall

19- Air Force Headquarters

Beyond the Old City walls, the Italian Air Force Headquarters holds a haunting connection to the Jews of Rhodes. In July 1944, the Nazis gathered the Jewish population of Rhodes, concentrating them in this very building before sending them to extermination camps in Poland. It stands as a solemn reminder of the harrowing events of the Holocaust

Address: Opposite the Amboise Gate on the Old City Wall

20- Rhodes Agreements 1949

We continue our tour along the promenade to the "Palace of the Roses" site. It was the hotel where the ceasefire talks took place at the end of our War of Independence. Moshe Dayan and Yitzhak Rabin stayed at this hotel and negotiated in it, at the end of which they signed the "Rhodes Agreements".         i

Venture inside, and you'll find the table on which this landmark accord was signed, preserved in one of the inner rooms. Adorning the walls are evocative photographs capturing the discussions between Israeli, Egyptian, and Jordanian military delegations. Above them, a photocopy of the first page of the 'Davar' newspaper from February 24, 1949, proudly proclaims, "The agreement was signed," with the headline "The full text of the agreement signed in Rhodes this morning." Today, this building stands as the main casino of Rhodes, a testament to its rich history

Today the building used as the main casino of Rhodes

Address: Papanikolaou 4

21- Chabad House

Beit Chabad has a synagogue for minyan prayers and Shabbat meals, run by emissary Rabbi Uri Medina. There is also the "Jerusalem restaurant", the only restaurant in Rhodes that is strictly kosher. The restaurant's kitchen also operates catering services, and provides meals for groups and individuals, which are sent to every hotel on the island. It is also possible to collect food from the restaurant, preferably by prior reservation

Address: Iraklidon 84. Phone: + 306948488761

Thanks to Mrs. Carmen Cohen, director of the Jewish Museum

And Dr. Aharon Hasson, author of the Guide to the Jewish Quarter of Rhodes

For their help with information and research for the purpose of this article, and for the authority to use their photographs 

Most photos are courtesy of Rhodes' Jewish community. Photos: Yaakov Maor, Dafna Zoref, and Menachem Foxman

Marked images from the Guidebook to the Jewish Quarter of Rhodes by Aron Hasson, 2012, Los Angeles, CA.The Rhodes Jewish Historical Foundation.