Nestled in the northern reaches of Germany, the city of Hamburg boasts a rich tapestry of history, culture, and Jewish heritage. As the country's second-largest city, it beckons to travelers seeking a unique exploration of Europe. From renowned Jewish leaders to compelling historical sites, Hamburg invites you on a journey of discovery.
Hamburg also holds two world records of Jewish tourism. Hamburg is the place where more historical spiritual Jewish leaders are buried, more than any other country in the world outside Israel. In addition, Hamburg has more Stolperstein blocks than any other city in the world. It has other interesting Jewish heritage sites. But despite this, Hamburg was not on our tourism map. It is located in the far north of Germany, and access to it was complicated. At the beginning of the month, the German airline TLV Air inaugurated a direct flight line from Israel to Hamburg, which opened up opportunities to visit the many tourist attractions in this city. Founder of TLV Air, Mr. Shlomo Almagor, tells us: "Now Hamburg will be the new Uman." i
To understand what we see in Hamburg, we'd be familiar with some local Jewish history. In the 16th century Jews from the Portuguese deportations came to Hamburg and established a Sephardic Jewish community. They were followed by Jews from the Netherlands and Poland. In the 17th century, they were organized in a framework called 'AHW Communities'. Abbreviations of: Altona, Hamburg, Wandsbek. 400 years ago Jews were not allowed to live in the city, and those who were working there lived in neighboring towns. Hamburg has expanded, and today Altona and Wandsback are neighborhoods within it
In Hamburg there was no Jewish ghetto. In the 18th century, the city's Jews gathered in two neighborhoods. The first was Neuestadt (the new city) outside the walls, and the newer is Rotterbaum, also called "Little Jerusalem". Today it is part of the Grindel district. Until the Holocaust, 70% of Hamburg's 21,000 Jews lived there. There were many synagogues, 39 Jewish schools and Talmud Torah. Only a few of them remain because the buildings were sold when the Jews moved away, and because of the great destruction and the burning of synagogues on Kristallnacht
Here is a list of the top 10 must-see Jewish heritage sites in Hamburg
1 The Museum of Immigration
Hamburg, known as the main migration gateway from Europe to America, has a fascinating story to tell. From 1850 to 1914, approximately 5 million immigrants embarked on their journey to a new life via the port of Hamburg. Among them were Jewish refugees fleeing the pogroms in Eastern Europe. Mr. Albert Ballin, an Orthodox Jew and the owner of f "The Hamburg-America" shipping company, the largest in Germany, which carried cargo and passengers. The Hamburg America Company had many warehouses in the area of Speicherstadt (warehouses city) near a port. He converted one of his warehouses in Padel neighborhood into a hostel for these Jewish refugees, complete with a kosher kitchen and dining area. Today, the Migration Museum occupies this very building, offering a glimpse into the immigration experiences of Jews and non-Jews alike
We see there a hall with many beds, dining rooms, luggage of all kinds, and more. The biggest attraction is the computerized listing of all the ships that docked and sailed in the port of Hamburg, and the names of all the passengers and crew on board. As is well known, most American Jews came originally from East Europe at the beginning of the last century. Many of my American friends and readers are excited to discover details about their ancestors
2. The Israeli Hospital
The "Israelitische Krankenhaus," or Israeli Hospital, tells a story of resilience and compassion. Founded in 1843 with the support of Jewish banker Salomon Heine, this hospital's history is intertwined with the Jewish community. Heine stipulated that a synagogue be built on the hospital's top floor as part of his contribution. Over time, it expanded to 230 beds and even had a vegetable garden providing fresh produce
In 1942, the Nazis gathered all the hospital's doctors and staff and sent them to a concentration camp. Over the years, the place ceased to serve only Jews. Above the entrance was a concrete Star of David and an inscription in Hebrew, which had recently disappeared. Despite facing Nazi persecution, the hospital's legacy lives on, ensuring care to those with referrals from the Jewish community
The regulations of the Israeli hospital state today that the board of directors must include also a seat for a Jewish representative, and that the hospital must accept any patient with a referral from the Jewish community
3 Bornplatz Synagogue
The Great Synagogue was inaugurated in 1906 on Bornplatz street in the center of the Rotterbaum district. It was the largest synagogue in northern Germany, and was called "The Palace" due to its magnificent ark and furniture and chandeliers. It had 700 seats for men, and 500 seats in the women section. In front of the Ark was a large gallery with room for a choir of 40 singers. The main cantor was Yosalle Rosenblatt. In the basement there was a Mikveh
On Kristallnacht the Germans burned it to the ground. The next day, the few Jews left in the city were forced to remove the debris and the whispering smoky coals of the wooden furniture. In the Municipal Museum of History we can see a model of the synagogue, which looks like this
After the Holocaust, the municipality paved a square there. It is called "Joseph Carlebach Square", named after the Chief Rabbi of Hamburg until the Holocaust. The square is paved with gray concrete stones, and in places where the outer walls of the synagogue stood, they paved with dark granite stones. This mosaic is a drawing of the synagogue of an exact size, which gives us an idea why it was called "The Palace". i
In the corner of the residential building near Yosef Carlebach Square hangs a memorial plaque with the story of the place and an illustration of the building that stood here
Maybe the Bornplatz Synagogue will be rebuilt soon. And this is the story: On Yom Kippur two years ago (2019) there was a terrorist attack in a synagogue in the city of Haale, south of Hamburg. A local young neo-Nazi opened fire at the synagogue and tried to break into it and to kill the worshipers Jews. He failed, so he shot at passers-by near the synagogue, who he thought were Jewish. He shot 2 people to death and seriously injured two more. Germany was in shock. After the attack, a German journalist came to interview the Chief Rabbi of Hamburg, Rabbi Yissachar Shlomo Bistritzky. For an hour, the rabbi answered his questions about the Jews' feelings in Hamburg about their personal security and the physical and spiritual damage of the terror attack. At the end of the interview, the journalist asked "What do you want now besides increasing security?". Rabbi Bistritzky was not prepared for this question, and replied spontaneously: "I have a dream to rebuild the Bornplatz Synagogue." i
The journalist used that sentence as the headline title of the article published prominently in the press. Then things started to move on unexpectedly. Non-Jewish social organizations offered help with construction and funding, and the municipality issued on its own initiative a building permit in principle, according to the original plans kept in its archives. Rabbi Bistritzky recruited engineers to prepare a feasibility study and a construction plan. The construction plan is about to be completed these days, and Rabbi Bistritzky hopes to submit it to the municipality before coming Passover
4 The Jewish school
On the outskirts of Joseph Carlebach Square stands an orange building. Above the entrance is written "Talmud Torah Study House". The school was established in 1805 to serve as a Jewish elementary and high school. Its level of education was very high, and its certificates were recognized for admission to universities. In the Holocaust, children and teachers were taken from here to their deaths, as evidenced by many stumbling blocks in front of the entrance gate
After the Holocaust, the municipality used the building for its own needs. In 2004, it was returned to the Jewish community, which reopened the Jewish school, and currently has about 200 pupils and 70 kindergarten children
5 Damtur synagogue
It was the first synagogue built outside the walls, about a minute's walk from Carlebach Square. It too was destroyed on Kristallnacht. In the place where it once stood, there is a monument made of the dark grey stone size of a home refrigerator, with an explanatory sign in German. The tombstone is located in an inner courtyard between two residential buildings. In the past, Gentiles forbade the construction of synagogues in the foreground when they protruded into the street, but only to build them hidden behind dwellings, as done here
6 The deportation of the Jews site
About 100 meters from the Damtur Synagogue, there is a large empty field covered with grass. Here the Nazis gathered the Jews before the deportations to the concentration camps. There is not much to see there, but we must get there to commemorate the victims of the Holocaust, and if we arrive in a group, to say Kaddish too
7 Stolperstein stumbling stones
The Stumbling Blocks project seeks to commemorate Holocaust victims throughout Europe. In Hamburg, these brass cubes, measuring 10x10x10 cm, are embedded in sidewalks in front of houses where Jews once lived before being sent to their deaths. Hamburg boasts around 5,000 stumbling blocks, more than any other city globally. In the Rotterbaum neighborhood, nearly half of the houses have these solemn memorials
8 Koenigstrasse Jewish Cemetery
Among Hamburg's eight Jewish cemeteries, the one on Koenigstrasse stands out. It serves as the final resting place for renowned rabbis and scholars of Jewish history. The most popular tomb here is the tomb of Rabbi Yonatan Eibeschitz. We have all learned Jewish philosophy from his book "Luchot Ha-Edut". Every year on the day of his death on the 21st of Elul, many Jews come to his grave, mostly yeshiva students from Antwerp and London, as well as a few dedicated Israelis. By now, when we have direct flights of TLV Air, we presume many more Israelis will come
We can also visit here the tombs of Rabbi Yaakov Ettlinger, author of "Aruch Laner", Rabbi Yaakov Emdin, Lehem Yechezkel, Cartey and Pelti, Sefer Mor and Ktziha, Minchat Ani, and other great Rabincal authors whose books are taught in yeshivas for generations to this day. For a religious Jewish traveler, a visit here is reminiscent of the bookcase in the yeshiva
For religious Jewish travelers, a visit here invokes a sense of reverence, with green moss-covered tombstones and the silent presence of history and freezing cold. Very exciting for any Ben-Torah. We can spend an entire day hearing explanations about each of them and his books
9 The Municipal Museum of History
Within the museum's walls lies a wing dedicated to Hamburg Jewry. It showcases photographs of Jewish sites that no longer exist due to the Holocaust and offers wooden models of ancient synagogues. A replica of a traditional synagogue, complete with an ark, reading table, and worshiper's benches, transports visitors to a bygone era. The museum also houses one of the printing machines from the Hebrew 'Altona Publishing,' owned by Rabbi Yaakov Emdin
The museum also displays the Knights' emblem of the Bluchers dynasty, the only one with the Stars of David. Kraft Blucher was a wealthy Jew in Altona. In 1842 the city of Hamburg came under fire, and he donated money to assist survivors and rehabilitate their homes. For this he was awarded the title of nobility, and was later elected to serve as governor of Hamburg
The fire was stopped at the site of the home of the Jewish banker Salomon Heine. As the fire spread toward his house, he agreed to have the house demolished, so that there would be an open area where the fire would have nothing more to consume, and it would stop. After the fire, Hamburg went bankrupt and banks refused to grant loans to the city. Heine was the only banker who agreed to grant funds without collateral and guarantees. For this he was appreciated and thanked, but was refused to grant citizenship because he was a Jew. All these and more fascinating stories are seen in the museum
10 Tempelrein Synagogue
The Tempelrein Synagogue, constructed in 1808 in the Neuestadt neighborhood, was the world's first Reform worship house. It fell victim to Kristallnacht, and today, only the skeleton of its eastern wall remains, with a huge niche in which the ark was. Part of the entrance wall also remains. The distance between them seems to me to be about 40-50 meters, which indicates the impressive size of the synagogue
A poignant monument stands in its place, a testament to its former glory and significance
These sites offer just a glimpse of Hamburg's Jewish heritage, with many more treasures to discover. The legacy of Jewish history weaves itself through the city, enriching the cultural tapestry of this vibrant metropolis. Hamburg is more than a city; it is a living testament to the strength, resilience, and indomitable spirit of its Jewish community. Come explore, learn, and pay tribute to a history that should never be forgotten
On the arch above the entrance gate was engraved in Hebrew "And the glory of the LORD filled the tabernacle" (Exodus 40/35). There is a joke about this among local Jews. It is said that a ceremony was once held in this synagogue, and the Orthodox rabbi Moshe Kahana was also invited to it. The rabbi got there but remained standing outside. They asked him why he did not honor them to enter the hall, and he replied: "You should have written here the beginning of this verse "And Moses was not able to enter". i
11. Albert Ballin's offices
Immerse yourself in the legacy of Hamburg's maritime history as we explore the story of Albert Ballin, who shaped the city's destiny through the shipping company, Hapag-Lloyd. His former offices in Speicherstadt even housed a synagogue. The restoration of this site and its association with the Jewish community is a testament to the city's enduring spirit
The largest shipping company in the world is Hapag-Lloyd which was founded on the foundations of the Hamburg-America shipping company, founded and managed by Albert Ballin. Thanks to it, the port of Hamburg became the third-largest port in the world, and was the source of Hamburg's economic prosperity. Most Hamburgers made a living from the port and various services provided to it. Thus Albert Ballin is considered an important figure in the history of Hamburg
His offices were located in Speicherstadt. Ballin assigned one of the rooms in the lobby to a small synagogue, where he used to pray every day Mincha and Maariv in Minyan with Jews who worked in the Speicherstadt area. Inside the room that served as a synagogue, there is no trace left of an ark and standedrs, and today it has drawing tables of an architectural firm. In the hallway leading to the room there is a small commemorative sign for Ballin and his private synagogue
12. Hannoverscher Railway Station Memorial
Journey to the harbor area where thousands of Jews were sent to extermination camps during the Nazi regime. The war left scars on the terminal and docks, but some remnants remain. During the war the British bombed the terminal and docks, but some of the docks and rails remain to this day. One of the surviving platforms bears a monument to remember the Holocaust victims, a solemn tribute to the enduring memory of those who suffered
13. Eisendorfer Synagogue
Hamburg's first synagogue, built in 1641 on Elb Street in the harbor area.
It is known that in 1718 it had an ancient Torah scroll. A miracle took place in this synagogue. It is said that one day Rabbi "Itzikel Hamburger" ordered the Shamash to lock the synagogue and give him the key. In the evening, people came to pray Mincha and Maariv, but couldn't enter the synagogue. For 3 days the rabbi refused to give them the key. Finally, when he returned the key and they opened the synagogue, they saw that the ceiling and concrete dome had collapsed, and if there were worshipers inside, a great disaster could have happened
In 1863 The congregation moved to a new synagogue on Eisendorfer Street, which was built of yellow bricks specially brought from Sweden. In 1936 it was closed because all its worshipers were deported to the camps. On Kristallnacht, the contents of this synagogue were burned, but the walls remained. In the bombings in 1941, it was completely destroyed along with the neighborhood houses. After the war, houses were built there. On one of them, the gates of the synagogue were restored in 1988, and memorial plaques were placed on the walls of the building
14. The Jewish Theater
Step back in time to a century ago when Hamburg's Jewish Theater showcased plays by Jewish playwrights and actors during the Nazi era, providing a unique cultural haven. Today, it thrives as a private theater, occasionally hosting events that celebrate Jewish culture and history. Some of its directors and actors who fled the Nazis, established 1944 the Cameri Theater in Tel Aviv. The theater buildig in Hamburg survived the war, and today it is a private theater appreciated all over Germany. From time to time, events for Jewish culture and history are also held there
15. Heine House
Discover the summer house of Jewish banker Salomon Heine, nestled within the beautiful Heine Park. This historic home has been a hub for lectures, cultural evenings, and gatherings on Jewish topics, carrying on the tradition of cultural enrichment and exchange
16. Altona's Jewish Youth Club
Until the Holocaust, Jewish children and youth club operated at Wohlersallee Street. Volunteers provided guidance and enrichment to children from kindergarten to high school. On the second floor was a pediatric clinic that freely served Jewish immigrant children from Eastern Europe. In the adjacent building, the immigrants opened a small synagogue called "Ahavat Torah". In 1942 the Nazis forced the community to sell youth club to the Hamburg municipality at a cheap and ridiculous price
17. Damtur Station: Kinder Transport Memorial
After Kristallnacht, the "Kinder Transport" rescue operation was carried out, in which 12,000 children from Germany and Poland were sent to England, and their parents remained at home and most of them murdered. About a hundred children from Hamburg were also among these children. Some of the children who survived and grew up, immigrated to Israel and established Kibbutz Lavi near Kinneret
A monument in memory of Operation Kinder Transport stood at the back entrance to the train station. A tour guide accompanied me by the Hamburg Tourism Board, Dr. Tomas Kaiser, took me to see this monument as well, but to his surprise it disappeared from its place. Before the Covid pandemic it was still standing there
18. Ober Synagogue: A Symbol of Survival
It is the only synagogue in Hamburg that survived the Holocaust. It was built in the Bauhaus style, and its construction was completed in 1931. The main prayer hall has room for 1,000 worshipers. The Germans did not harm it on Kristallnacht, because it is located next to the police station. The Nazis feared that if they burned it, the fire would spread to their police station
Above the entrance gate is engraved in stone the verse in Hebrew "For my house shall be called a house of prayer for all peoples" (Isaiah 56/7). On the sidewalk in front of the synagogue there is a monument in the form of a curtain of the ark, partially torn, and an open Torah scroll thrown to the ground
There are no more Jews living near the synagogue who could utilize it. Therefore, the building was sold to the NDR radio broadcasting station. The purchasers retained its external shape, but changed the internal structure. Today the large prayer hall is used for rehearsals by the Broadcasting Authority Orchestra, and the nearby classrooms are used as studios and offices
19. The Portuguese Synagogue: A Testament to Sephardic Roots
The oldest Jewish community in Hamburg was of Portuguese descent. In 1935, 150 Jews from Portugal retired from the other synagogues, and established a synagogue for themselves in two connected apartments on the ground floor of a residential building in Innocentia Street. Above it were ordinary residential apartments. Above the entrance to the building was hung a Hebrew sign "Holy community of the Sephardim Beit Yisrael", and below it a sign with the verse "The LORD is nigh unto all them that call upon Him" (Psalm 145/8)
In 1939, the Nazis ordered the closure of this synagogue, turning the entire building into a "Jewish home." i
20. The Jewish Homes: A Testimony to Adversity
In 1939 the Nazis ordered the Jews who remained in Hamburg to evacuate their homes, and move to live together densely inside specific residential buildings throughout the city, which belonged to Jewish landlords. This is to facilitate their supervision, and to facilitate the deportation they have planned for the future. They were called "Jewish houses," and there were about 70 such houses in the city. Today we can identify them by the number of stumbling blocks on the sidewalks in front of the entrance to each such house
21. The Old-New Klaus Association
The Schtiblach of Jews who emigrated from Eastern Europe was called "Klaus". The largest Klaus was located in an apartment on Rotschahn Street, and due to lack of space, there were "courtyards Minyanim" as early as the beginning of the last century. In this big Klaus they also established a Beit Midrash and Talmud Torah, and in front of it operated a kosher butcher shop
22. The Hohe Weide synagogue
After the Holocaust, new synagogues were opened that we should visit for prayer or just to see. The main and largest synagogue today is named after the small street Hohe Weide where it is located. A modern building that is under close security of the local police. The chapel is large and very spacious, with a very high ceiling. On the curtain of the ark is an embroidery of the Bornplatz Synagogue. Minyan prayers are held here only on Saturdays and holidays, with the participation of community members and also the Chabad community. The Jewish community in Hamburg currently has about 3,500 registered, most of them from the USSR
23. Chabad House: A Place of Worship and Community
A Chabad house opened about a decade ago in the old home of a wealthy Jew, who was forced to sell it to a gentile at a paltry price, before being sent to death camp. At the beginning of the century, the heirs of this gentile sold the house to the Teachers' Union. There were few teachers who thought it is immoral for educators to operate out of offices stained with tort and Jewish murder, and therefore considered to return the house to the Jewish community. Most of the other teachers objected. The dispute between the teachers lasted for many years. About ten years ago, a compromise was reached in which the building was sold to Chabad at a special price
The Chabad Shaliach (emissary), Rabbi Shlomo Bistritzky, who is currently the city's chief rabbi, immediately opened a synagogue and a Beit Midrash there. Later he also opened a kosher kitchen and a kind of restaurant. Recently there has also been a small Kollel operating there. This is the only place in Hamburg where we can pray Schacharit in Minyan every morning. After the prayer service, breakfast is served there
The interior of the house is impressive in its beauty. The teachers spoiled the beauty when they covered the walls and ceilings with plaster and white paint. When Rabbi Bistritzky began the renovation, he discovered under the plaster very elegantly carved wood veneers, which had been restored in some of the rooms. In other rooms the restoration work is still going on with great care
24. The Ober Synagogue: Witness to History
The building next to Beit Chabad was a residence and offices of the Curio family. At the end of World War II, the headquarters of the British Army were located here. After the Holocaust, trials were held in the hall to the left of the entrance for SS men who were responsible for the murder of thousands of Jews in the Neuegamme labor camp. The SS doctor Dr. Kurt Heismayer, who performed experiments on tuberculosis on Jewish prisoners, was also sentenced to death by firing squad. The commander of the camp was also sentenced to death by hanging, after it was proved in this courtroom that he ordered to hang 20 Jewish children in whom Heismayer conducted experiments. On the entrance wall we see a large plaque explaining the trials held for Nazi criminals in Nuremberg and Hamburg
Today it is the office building of various associations in the field of medicine. The Curio House and Beit Chabad next to it on the right, illustrate to us the verse "And the sun came, and the sun rose." i
25. Albert Ballin's Villa
Albert Ballin was the richest and most important man in Hamburg at the beginning of the last century. He built his house in the Rutterbaum neighborhood near synagogues and Jewish schools. The villa was built in 1908 of Jerusalem bricks stones with a classic motif of country houses
Ballin was a personal friend of Emperor Wilhelm II. When Ballin heard that his friend had been defeated in World War I, he had a heart attack and died in this house. The house has become a historic site. Trips of German schoolchildren and tourists come to his house. Next to the entrance pillars hangs a large sign describing his historical work. Today the house is used by the UNESCO offices
26. Laonar Coffee: Nurturing Jewish Culture
The cafe opened in 2007, offering coffee and typical Jewish food (no kosher certificate). Before the Holocaust, the "Grindel Jewish Living Room" operated in the back room of this cafe, which was a meeting place for Jewish intellectuals to exchange views and ideas and for political and philosophical debates. Nowadays, people try to renew this tradition, and sometimes Jewish cultural events take place here. Inside this cafe also operates the Jewish bookstore "Smeltleben and Guggenheim". i
27. Neuegamme Concentration Camp
Around Hamburg there were a number of concentration camps and labor camps. The most famous of them is Bergen Belzen, located about 30 Km from Hamburg. The nearest camp was Neuegamme, right on the edge of town on the southeast side. The Germans imprisoned there more than 100,000 prisoners, most of them Jews. Here the Germans murdered 43,000 prisoners, and the rest were sent to other camps. Today there is a study center and a conference center on the subject of the Holocaust in the camp area. There is also a memorial site there
Setting them up was not easy. After the war the British army turned the place into a detention facility. After a few years the place was handed over to the City of Hamburg, who turned it into a prison. Jewish organizations demanded to commemorate the victims, but the Germans refused at the beginning. In 1953 the prison was moved to another location, and only then did commemoration operations begin
28. The Poppenbuttel Memorial: Remembering the Women
Discover the remnants of the Sasel camp for women, a testament to the Jewish women who suffered during the Holocaust. The preserved building offers a glimpse into the hardships they endured
Our journey through Hamburg's Jewish heritage is a testament to the resilience of a community that has endured adversity, carrying its history forward with grace and strength. Join us as we explore these historic sites and commemorate the lives, stories, and culture that have shaped this vibrant city
Thanks to Mrs. Christiane Andreessen of the Hamburg Tourist Board, and Dr. Tomas Kaiser
for assistance in providing info for this article
The author was a guest of TLV Air
