In this week's Torah portion, 'Vayetze,' unfolds the captivating tale of Jacob's encounter with Rachel. The ancient text in Genesis 29/1 "Then Jacob continued on his journey and came to the land of the eastern peoples. There he saw a well in the open country" Remarkably, this very well endures, offering a tangible link to the past that we can explore today. Nestled in Haran, within southeastern Turkey's Şanlıurfa Province, it's known as Yakup Kuyusu, meaning 'Jacob's well' in Turkish
Beside this storied well, an enduring love story commenced at first glance between our forefather Jacob and Rachel: "When Jacob saw Rachel, daughter of his uncle Laban, he kissed her and wept aloud." On the cherished day of love, Tu B'Av, Jewish communities in Orfa and Aleppo traditionally convened for communal prayers and picnics by 'Jacob's well.' Even travelers from distant places like Izmir, Constantinople (now Istanbul), and even northern Iraq, would join in. Regrettably, this cherished tradition dwindled as Jewish communities around Haran migrated to Israel. Rabbi Mendy Chitrik, the Chabad Shaliach to Istanbul, endeavors to revive this beautiful custom in recent years
This venerable well features prominently in the Q&A book of the esteemed Cacham Ba'ashi, Rabbi Chaim Falaggi, who presided over Izmir two centuries ago. A father once sought his counsel, inquiring about remedies to aid his daughters in finding suitable matches, citing their visit to 'Jacob's well' in Haran. Evidently, this place has served as a focal point for prayers seeking matches for centuries
Across centuries, Muslims also revered this hallowed site. Today, it stands as an important tourist attraction, drawing numerous Muslim and Christian visitors, albeit fewer from the Jewish people
To preserve this historical relic, a structure now encases the well. Over centuries, layers of soil had covered the area, necessitating the construction of a stone edifice. Most of it remains below ground level, with roughly half a meter of the walls and the roof visible above
Stone steps lead down from the building's roof, granting access to the well itself, while a covered opening in the roof directly overlooks the well's sacred waters
A massive stone once covered the well, requiring several strong men to budge it. The Torah recounts the scene vividly: "When all the herds were gathered there, the shepherds would roll the stone away from the well’s mouth and water the sheep." As fate would have it, Rachel arrived with her father's flock. and upon seeing her and Laban's sheep. "When Jacob saw Rachel daughter of his uncle Laban, he went over and rolled the stone away from the mouth of the well and watered his uncle’s sheep". i
In the vicinity of this ancient well, other wells dot the landscape, their mouths capped by stone bowls resembling corks. To this day, shepherds faithfully tend to these wells in the afternoons, mirroring the timeless practice chronicled in the Torah. Notably, 'Abraham's Monastery' in Haran hosts a similar stone believed to be the original covering the well's mouth
A decade ago, on my first visit, this structure appeared forlorn amidst a weed-ridden field. Recognizing its historical significance, the Turkish tourism office and Haran municipality undertook a recent renovation, encircling the area with a stone fence and paving a path leading to the well. Lush greenery, including a sizable lawn and palm trees, now adorn the space. Adjacent to the fence, a line of tall shade trees stands sentinel, while two shaded shelters for visitors flank the structure. Today, the well and its encompassing structure rest within a meticulously kept public garden, with tourism writers from across the globe, including Israel, invited to its grand reopening
The preservation of this place spans generations, buoyed by the locals' belief in the water's mystical healing properties, earning it the moniker 'the healing well' (in Turkish: Hastalıklara şifa olan kuyunun). Mayor of Haran, Mahmut Ozyavuz, recounting a recent incident, shared: "About two months ago, a woman came with a sick child. I took them to the well, and after bathing the child in its waters, they returned a week later, grateful for their son's complete recovery." i
One can view this place through two lenses: the physical and the spiritual. To some, it may appear as a modest, unassuming structure—a mere site. It doesn't boast the grandeur of tourist attractions like the Colosseum in Rome or the Eiffel Tower in Paris, at least to those seeing it solely with physical eyes
Viewed through spiritual eyes, the significance of Jacob's Well becomes profound. Visitors feel the weight of standing on the ground where our forefathers Jacob and Rachel once walked. In this contemplative state, I envision Rachel arriving with her father's flock. The mere hour's difference in her arrival could have altered the course of history entirely. The establishment of the Jewish people hinges on this serendipitous encounter described in the Torah. Knowing that this pivotal moment took place precisely here elicits an intense rush, causing the heart to surge until it feels as though it might leap from one's chest. The heart transcends its constraints, and through a faithful spiritual lens, this unassuming structure takes on dimensions and significance akin to the grandeur of the pyramids in Cairo. The once-chilled waters from the well, gain a spiritual potency that reverberates louder than Niagara Falls. When considering the place's spiritual value, it becomes an immersive and powerful experience, akin to the spiritual weight of both the Kotel Western Wall and the Makhpela's Cave combined
Jacob's Well holds the potential to strengthen our connection to the Torah and the Divine, stirring emotions that compel action. I reflected on the verse "Take off your sandals, for the place where you are standing is holy ground," contemplating a gesture of reverence by removing my shoes. However, considering the diverse audience, mainly non-Jewish Journalists in the delegation, I refrained, acknowledging potential misunderstanding
Outside the compound's gate, across the road, lie cafes and souvenir shops. There, I purchased small clay jars and a wooden camel figurine from one of the stalls. These items now adorn my dining room closet, serving as conduits for storytelling. Through these tangible reminders, I narrate the biblical tales of Rachel and Rebekah tending to Jacob and Eliezer's camels to my grandchildren. Their excitement swells knowing that these toys originate from the very place chronicled in the Torah
With the recent thaw in relations between Israel and Turkey, the possibility of Israelis revisiting Antalya seems promising. For those planning such a trip, I highly recommend dedicating a day to explore Jacob's Well. This site holds immense appeal for Torah enthusiasts, and I suggest bringing a Bible to read the relevant verses aloud near the well. The profound love story that blossomed between Jacob and Rachel, culminating in their marriage, makes it an ideal place for prayers, especially for singles seeking a soulmate. It wouldn't be surprising if tourism entrepreneurs and matchmaking agencies organize specialized tours to this enchanting spot
How do you reach there
"Jacob's Well" sits on the outskirts of Haran, situated approximately a thousand kilometers east of Antalya and roughly 20 kilometers north of the Syrian border. Since direct flights from Ben Gurion Airport are unavailable, you'll likely need a connecting flight via Istanbul or Antalya to Urfa's small airport. Once in Urfa, a taxi or rented car can take you south to Haran in about 30 minutes. The well compound lies outside the city wall, positioned on the northeastern side of Haran
Another option involves a lengthy journey by train or bus from Antalya to the town Gaziantep, followed by a roughly one-hour drive on the O-52 highway to Urfa and onward to Haran. For navigation, enter "Hz Yakup Kuyusu URFA" into your GPS
Please note: Haran experiences harsh winter conditions, so it's advisable to avoid visiting during this season
Selim Ozturk, the tourism attaché at the Turkish Embassy in Israel, underscores the special regard Turkish tourism officials have for Jewish sites. They invest in refurbishing, maintaining, and promoting these sites. In Urfa, adjacent to Haran, other Jewish tourist sites like Abraham's Pool and ancient synagogues beckon exploration. For those inclined toward an extended journey, consider continuing from there to Mount Ararat, a roughly four-hour trip, to glimpse the remnants of Noah's original ark
Upon arrival at the Jacob's Well site, you'll find informative signs in Turkish, Arabic, and English near the entrance gate and within the garden area. Given the Turkish tourism office's interest in attracting Israeli tourists, I suggested to Selim Ozturk the inclusion of Hebrew explanations on the site's signs. So, when you arrive and see Hebrew signage, remember where the idea originated for the first time
