Vilnius stands as a captivating jewel in Europe, drawing in tourists from every corner of the globe. It boasts medieval architecture, labyrinthine narrow streets inviting exploration, vibrant markets, charming boutiques, riverside benches perched along hillsides, a rich array of museums, and scenic lookout points among its many treasures

But beyond its aesthetic allure, Vilnius holds profound significance for us due to its deep-rooted Jewish heritage. Over past centuries, it earned the moniker 'Jerusalem of Lithuania' due to the presence of the Gaon of Vilna and the revered Torah, entwined within the city's tapestry of Jewish heritage

The Gaon of Vilna

The Gaon, Rabbi Eliyahu ben Shlomo, resided in Vilnius during the late 18th century, reigning as the paramount rabbinic authority worldwide. His reverence for Torah was matched only by his diverse expertise spanning mathematics, engineering, biology, astronomy, geography, linguistics, and music. Although offered the role of the city's chief rabbi, he humbly declined, yet even those outside the Jewish community revered his wisdom, bestowing upon him the Hebrew epithet 'the Gaon.'    i

The GRA's former abode, once situated at 5 ZYDU Street, now hosts a monument—a sculpted tribute to the Gaon's likeness, conceived by a local artist's imagination. The statue lay within the artist's home for years until the collapse of the Soviet Union paved its way to public display

Adorning the neighboring house's wall, a Hebrew inscription honors the legacy of the Gaon, affirming, 'The Gaon of Vilna, Eliyahu, lived in this house that stands here'.    i

To this day, the street leading to his former residence bears the name Gaono in reverence to his memory. Recent efforts to honor the city's Jewish heritage include the installation of Hebrew and Yiddish street signs in the small old ghetto area

Plans for grand commemorations marking the 300th anniversary of the Gaon's birth were conceived by the Lithuanian government two years ago, only to be stymied by the Covid pandemic's unfortunate arrival

A fervent Zionist, the GRA endeavored to immigrate to the Land of Israel in 1782. His aspirations for the Jewish settlement's resurgence in Israel, transforming its desolation to hasten the Messiah's arrival, spurred numerous students to join an immigration movement known as the 'Aliyah of the GRA's students' from 1808 onwards. Their initial settlements in Safed later extended to Jerusalem from 1816 onwards

The GRA vehemently opposed the Hasidic movement, a stance that continues to influence his followers, known today as 'Litvaks,' regardless of their origins, whether from Germany or Morocco. His opposition stemmed from his unwavering emphasis on Torah study. In his view, the exuberant worship of the Hasidim appeared to contradict the reverence for Torah. Moreover, living through the devastating fallout caused by the Sabbtain movement, which brought immense damage to the Jewish community, the GRA harbored concerns that Hasidism might similarly deify its leaders as false messiahs akin to Shabbtai Zvi. Consequently, he excommunicated the Hasidim. History reveals that instead of leading to assimilation, Hasidism had the opposite effect

An anecdote recounts an attempt at reconciliation between the elder Chabad Rebbe from Ladi and the GRA. When the elder Rebbe visited the Gaon's house seeking to end the longstanding dispute, the Gaon's wife met him at the door and, upon learning his identity, denied him entry. The elder Rebbe cryptically remarked, 'Your descendants in the tenth generation will be my Hasidim.' Interestingly, our current generation stands as the tenth generation since that encounter, and it's striking to witness the prophecy's fulfillment. Efraim K., a close friend of mine and a prominent travel agent, happens to be a descendant of the Gaon and has embraced Chabad Hasidism

Upon the Gaon's passing in 1797, he was laid to rest in the Jewish cemetery of Shnipishok, once a Jewish town now absorbed into Vilnius as a suburban area. However, during the Soviet era, a vast portion of the cemetery was obliterated to construct the 'Soviet Sports Palace.' A global outcry in 1951 prompted the government to relocate twelve significant graves of Jewish figures, including the GRA and his family, to the new Jewish cemetery

An "Ohel" stands over the new grave of the Gaon and his family, becoming a significant Jewish tourist attraction in Vilnius. Almost every Jewish tourist makes their way here to offer prayers and leave a 'kvitel' containing a personal wish

Even Prime Minister Netanyahu, a direct descendant of the Gaon, visited this tent during his state visit to Lithuania in 2018

 

Shas Vilna

Shas Vilna represents the most widely used version of the Babylonian Talmud worldwide. Its editing and initial printing took six years, commencing in 1880 at the printing house of the widow Ramm located at 4 Dvasiov Street. The building still stands today, having served as a printing house until just a few years ago. It's an imposing structure constructed with yellow and red bricks, originally boasting two floors during the widow's tenure, now expanded to three

Prior to this Vilna edition, Talmud volumes typically displayed the Gemara text in upper part of each page, with commentaries from Rashi and others below. Older prints only showcased the Gemara, while various commentaries were published separately, like the 'Chiddushim' of contemporary scholars. The noteworthy innovation introduced by the Ramm widow's printing was the presentation of Talmud pages in three columns. The central column featured the Gemara text in larger font, while the commentaries of Rashi and Tosfot were printed in smaller letters in the side columns. Shas Vilna also incorporated insights from the Gaon of Vilna alongside

Rabbi Shmuel Shraga Feigenzon, editor of Shas Vilna, had ties with Rabbi Reines, founder of the Mizrahi movement, and was an active member of the Zionist movement, frequently speaking at Zionist conferences and congresses. Concluding the Babylonian Talmud in the Masechet Niddah, he wrote 'Acharit Davar' (conclusion), detailing the sacred task of editing the Shas. Over a hundred individuals were involved in the printing process, with 14 proofreaders. The Ramm family spared no effort to align the text with the most accurate versions from prior prints and handwritten manuscripts

Shas Vilna established the template for the visual layout of subsequent printed Talmuds worldwide. Most editions merely replicated the original Shas Vilna. Our religious culture is deeply rooted in the Gemara, specifically Shas Vilna. This method of study has become ingrained in our lives, emblematic of Judaism. The historical significance of this printing endeavor is hard to capture in words

Engaging in Gemara study at the very place where Shas was designed is a spiritually enriching experience. Sitting on the sidewalk, facing the building, I delved into the "Daf Yomi' (daily page) Masechet Nazir, page 57. While studying, I coincidentally completed the chapter 'Cohen Gadol' today. I perceived it as a form of divine providence since the writings of Rabbi Kook, known as 'the Biggest Cohen of his brothers,' were also printed here. Rabbi Kook spent two separate two-week periods in Vilnius, meticulously proofreading the printing of the 'Itur Sophrim' booklets. In the Ramm widow's printing, not only tractates but also various other books and newspapers were published."   i

 

The Coral Synagogue

The "Taharat Hakodesh" Synagogue is a magnificent Moorish-style structure, its striking white façade accented with light brown stripes. Its prominence in Vilnius is underscored by a large blue dome soaring above the city's skyline, and above the entrance gate, the Hebrew verse "For My house shall be called a house of prayer for all nations" is inscribed in bold letters

Upon entering, the vastness of the interior is awe-inspiring. The ceiling, a breathtaking array of blues adorned with white and gray cornices, creates an ambiance of grandeur. Despite the weight and age of the wooden floor, it remains steadfastly silent underfoot

The expansive stage (Bima) before the Holy Ark, supported by eight columns, seems reminiscent of the gate columns of the Shas Vilna. However, the Holy Ark remains hidden from view, concealed behind the curtain opposite the cantor's lectern plaque

Before the Holocaust, Vilnius boasted 130 synagogues; today, a mere nine endure. The Coral Synagogue's survival during that dark period was owed to its repurposing by the Germans, who used it as a warehouse for medicines and equipment from the adjacent Jewish hospital, shuttered by the occupying forces

Operational only on Shabbat, the synagogue struggles to gather a minyan even then. A cantor and a rabbi conduct services, yet the congregation often relies on visiting groups for a sufficient minyan quorum. During one such visit with a 'Gesher Tours' group, we contributed to making the minyan possible for the Shabbat evening service

 

The Great Ghetto

Facing the synagogue's entrance, remnants of the Jewish ghetto endure—some houses and streets preserved from that harrowing period. Approximately 30,000 Jews from across the city were confined here in 1941, and tragically, most were murdered in the Ponary forest outside Vilnius. A memorial plaque now marks the spot where the ghetto gate once stood, accompanied by a map illustrating its layout

Yiddish signs from a century ago still linger on some houses within the former ghetto boundaries

Among them, the building that once housed the Jewish school now stands under renovation. Green netting conceals its exterior, yet beneath the peeling plaster, Hebrew inscriptions and historical paintings are revealed. This site holds significance as the headquarters of the Jewish underground command, where Abba Kovner orchestrated resistance efforts and composed his renowned Partisan Manifesto denouncing the Holocaust's horrors

The ghetto met its tragic end on September 23, 1943, as the final Jews were led to Ponary for extermination. Following Lithuania's independence, the nation designated this date as its Holocaust Remembrance Day, joining Israel as the only country to observe such a national day of remembrance

Throughout the city, placards in both Lithuanian and Yiddish denote former residences. However, the city's tourism committee seems to overlook potential tourist attractions, focusing solely on relatively unknown Jewish homes. Locations such as the Chazon Ish's or Rabbi Chaim Ozer's residences hold equal potential to draw crowds, similar to the way pilgrims flock to Rabbi Nachman's grave in Uman or Rabbi Elimelech's in Lizhensk. Additionally, considering adding English translations to signage could better serve the international visitors the city aims to attract, most of whom are not versed in Lithuanian or Yiddish

Shulhoyff

Across from the residence of the Gaon sat a square where the Great Synagogue once stood, surrounded by approximately a dozen synagogues and the Beyt Midrash (study hall) of the Gra. This complex served as the epicenter of religious life and cultural activity in Vilnius and was renowned for its provision of kosher meat. Towering grander and larger than any public edifice in Vilnius, the Great Synagogue boasted thousands of seats. Constructed in the 17th century, it embodied a Renaissance-Baroque architectural style. At that time, Vilnius had a municipal law restricting buildings from surpassing the height of the church steeples. Ingeniously, the Jewish architect excavated the ground, positioning the synagogue's floor two meters below street level. This clever design made the synagogue seem lower from the outside while offering an elevated interior space. The Holy Ark within the synagogue housed eighteen Torah scrolls. The original covenant boards from the Ark, its doors, and the cantor's lectern are now showcased in the Museum of Tolerance

Despite enduring wars, fires, and surviving the Holocaust-era damage inflicted by the Nazis, the synagogue succumbed to the ravages of Soviet rule. In 1956/7, during this regime's reign, all religious structures, including the Shulhoyff, were obliterated, replaced by the construction of a high school that stands on the site today

In 2016, the Israeli Antiquities Authority commenced excavations within the Shulhoyff courtyard, unveiling remarkable discoveries. Completed a year ago, these excavations revealed remnants of the Holy Ark, the synagogue's stage, remnants of a vivid and ornate floor, robust columns supporting the roof, and two mikvehs (ritual baths). Notable among the findings were a 200-year-old inscription and a Torah-reading pointer. Upon the completion of the project, the excavated areas were carefully covered again with soil

 

The Rabbinical Building

Situated at the junction of Ignoto and Benediktinu streets, this building once housed the principal rabbinical offices of Vilnius. In 1903, Herzl visited Vilnius, meeting with the city's rabbis and Jewish community leaders within these very walls. Despite generating immense excitement, the authorities barred him from delivering a public address in the hall reserved for this purpose. Jewish Zionists congregated around the building, prompting Herzl to step onto this balcony to acknowledge them

This significant episode is commemorated with a memorial plaque affixed to the building's wall beneath the balcony

 

Cemeteries

Klauzner penned a book on Vilnius's Jewish history, drawing inspiration from the narratives etched on the gravestones in the cemetery. Akiva Sela, a dedicated researcher of Lithuanian Jewry, advocates learning about a place's Jewish history through its tombstones. Vilnius once housed three Jewish cemeteries

The Old Jewish Cemetery, established in 1487 in Shnipishok, served as the final resting place for approximately 200,000 individuals across a vast 110-acre expanse. As Vilnius expanded over time, the cemetery grounds were gradually enveloped by the city. Soviet rule ushered in an era where the Russians began demolishing the cemetery to make space for residential complexes and public structures. Global outrage ensued, leading to a cessation of these activities. Subsequently, the bones and coffins, including those believed to belong to the Gaon of Vilna and his family, were relocated to the new cemetery. Later, the entire area was cleared, paving the way for the construction of a sports center. In 2019, plans emerged to expand the sports hall and erect another congress hall on the cemetery grounds, triggering widespread opposition. The Israeli Minister of Religious Affairs intervened, negotiating an agreement with the Lithuanian government to cease further construction

Today, a monument at the center of the cemetery grounds pays homage to the Gaon of Vilna and his pupil, the Avraham ben Avraham (The Graf Pototzki) buried there

The second cemetery, "Azarzeh," situated on Olandu Street, was founded in 1828 and served as the final resting place for 70,000 individuals. Sadly, few tombstones remain in their original positions today. William Zhitkouskas, a Vilnius tour guide, recounts how medical students frequented the site to collect bones for anatomical studies. Many tombstones tumbled down the hillside, while others were pillaged during the Soviet era for construction materials. Nearly two decades ago, the city attempted to gather the pilfered tombstones and return them to the cemetery. However, unable to ascertain their original locations, they were stacked near the entrance, with hopes of identifying the names and burial sites of the deceased someday

One prominent tombstone stands out along the roadside—a new tribute to Rabbi Baruch Ber Leibowitz, the author of "Birkat Shmuel" and head of the Kamenitz Yeshiva. This monument carries an intriguing tale. A generation ago, students at New York City's Beit Yaakov school learned about Lithuanian rabbis and saw photos of them, one of which depicted a figure with darker skin. One student made a disparaging remark, likening the face to that of a monkey. Subsequently, the student suffered a stroke, prompting her parents to seek help from various doctors and, ultimately, a rabbi. Following an investigation, the rabbi recommended reciting 40 Psalms at the grave of the perceived "monkey."      i

Locating Rabbi Leibowitz's grave amid the neglected cemetery proved challenging, similar to the present state. However, an investigation revealed a unique aspect of his burial. In his lifetime, Rabbi Leibowitz had expressed a wish to be interred next to his father. Unfortunately, upon his demise, his father's plot was full, leading to his burial perpendicular to his father's grave. Using sophisticated ground radar from the USA, the family discerned a distinct grave amidst the surroundings. This discovery led to the funding and construction of a new monument, precisely facing the local grave. Following the daughter's recitation of Psalms, as per the rabbi's instruction, she experienced a miraculous recovery from the stroke that very night

In the corner of the cemetery stands a unique monument crafted from tombstones arranged in a stepped formation. Adjacent to it, a broad stone column bears an explanatory plaque. The architect's vision was to create an arrangement that discouraged walking or climbing on the tombstones, gathered from locations across the city where they previously served as steps or walkways in private residences and public gardens

The New Jewish cemetery, established in the 1940s near the Jewish ghetto, remains active to this day. Situated in the Šeškinė neighborhood beyond the Wilia River on Sudervės Street, it holds significant historical significance. It became the resting place of the Gaon of Vilna after his remains were transferred there, and later, it became the burial site for notable Vilnius rabbis, including Rabbi Chaim Ozer Grodzinski. Not far from the purification room, a touching memorial marks the resting place of children who tragically perished in the Vilna ghetto. The main path is adorned with memorials honoring ghetto educators, Hebrew writers, partisans, and other revered figures

Among those interred near the Gaon of Vilna lies Graf Valentin Potocki, also known as Abraham son of Abraham Graetz. Originally a Polish nobleman, he embarked on a journey to study in Amsterdam where he discovered Judaism, delving into Torah study and ultimately converting. His conversion carried immense risk due to the severe penalty for such actions at the time—death. Despite his family's exhaustive search, Potocki arrived in Vilnius and became a devoted student of the Gaon of Vilna. However, an informant within Vilnius' Jewish community betrayed Graf Potocki, resulting in his arrest. Despite being offered wealth and honor to renounce Judaism and return to Christianity—pressures also exerted by his family—he steadfastly refused. Tragically, he was publicly burned at the stake in Vilnius' central square on Shavuot in 1749, courageously affirming his faith with the poignant words "Shema Yisrael." i

The Gaon of Vilna harbored a deep affection for his student, Potocki, and before his passing, expressed a wish to be buried alongside him. However, members of the Chevra Kadisha deemed it disrespectful for the preeminent Gaon of the generation to share a burial place with a simple rabbi and interred him elsewhere

After about 150 years, the circle closed. When the Soviets destroyed the Jewish cemetery in Shnipishok, they were tasked with relocating the remains of 14 Jews, among them the GRA and his family, and notably, the remains of the GRA, Avraham son of Avraham. This time, they buried the GRA's remains alongside those of Graf Potocki, as the Gaon originally requested

Until now, I've offered mere glimpses of the Jewish sites in Vilnius, yet this city hosts an abundance of such heritage. 'Gesher Tours' presents compelling journeys through Lithuania and Latvia, tracing Jewish paths that intersect Lithuanian yeshivas and the influential Rabbi Kook, providing an enriching two-day experience in Vilnius. Another well-established tourism venture, JeruLita, has been a key player in this region since 1999. Their repertoire comprises an array of guided tours and specialized excursions across the Baltic region, focusing on various areas of interest. Representatives from JeruLita emphasized that even an entire week wouldn't suffice to explore all the Jewish sites nestled within Vilnius. Adding to this enriching tapestry, Mrs. Vilija Malinauskaite recently launched JewishTravelLv, a new venture curating tailored tours for our community's specific interests

The author had the privilege of being hosted by 'Gesher Tours' and JewishTravelLv