The Franconia region, nestled in northern Bavaria, Germany, stands among the world's most frequented areas. Boasting grand cities adorned with medieval fortresses, Renaissance structures, renowned breweries crafting excellent beer, and picturesque roads winding through serene rural landscapes, Franconia is a hidden gem largely undiscovered by most Israelis

While many have explored Munich, the capital of Bavaria, and trekked through the enchanting Black Forest in the south, the northern Bavarian haven of Franconia remains a trove of enticing tourist spots and captivating historical Jewish sites

Embarking on our journey, we commence at the illustrious "Castle of Nürnberg," an emblematic landmark of the city. This millennium-old castle boasts Roman Empire architecture and meticulously landscaped gardens. The square preceding the castle gate offers breathtaking panoramic vistas of the city. Inside, ancient structures, towers, and courtyards interlace with lush gardens. Historically, this castle hosted Roman emperors during their empire-wide travels and safeguarded their treasures, including original crowns, until their relocation to Vienna. Notably, every German king convened their inaugural assembly within these walls. The "Burgraves' Castle," now part of the Nürnberg Castle, once served as the dwelling for German rulers

 

Descending from the castle, we meander through charming medieval alleyways still inhabited today. Our destination? The "Haupt Markt" (market square), a tourist magnet and Nürnberg's secondary symbol. Spanning an area akin to Rabin Square in Tel Aviv, this market has stood for over 700 years. Here, the Tourist Information Bureau aids visitors with maps and tailored tour suggestions based on individual interests

Gracing the square's western flank stands the Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Lady). Adorned with striking statues, this cathedral boasts interior beauty, having weathered destruction during World War II and later been meticulously restored and reopened in 1350

Arriving around noon, one can witness the mechanical clock's enchanting performance, unfolding precisely at 12 noon, as animated figures and sculptures come to life underneath its mechanism

At the square's opposite end stands the majestic medieval "Schöner Brunnen" high fountain adorned with gold-plated figures, including representations of King David and King Solomon. A local legend surrounds the fountain's base, where a golden ring beckons visitors to make a wish upon its turn. Intriguingly, it seems mostly Japanese and American tourists engage in this tradition, hoping to see their wishes granted

Jewish Heritage

Even amidst the bustling Central Market Square lies a hidden layer of Jewish history. Centuries ago, this very area housed numerous small residences, forming the heart of the Nürnberg Jewish Quarter. Among its notable residents was Rabbi Mordechai Ben Hillel Ashkenazi, renowned for crafting the "Mordechai" Interpretations on the Talmud, teachings that endure in yeshivas to this day. His contributions are revered, the "Mordechai" texts consistently printed at the conclusion of each Talmudic Masechet, following the Maharsh"a and the Ri"f

On my subsequent visit to the square, armed with a Gemara Masechet "Shevuhot" borrowed from the local Chabad synagogue, I returned to immerse myself in learning. Seated upon one of the sturdy stone benches at the square's edge, I delved into the "Daf Yomi." There, in that very spot where the "Mordechai" commentary was born, I found an indescribable thrill. I wholeheartedly recommend this experience to anyone with the time to journey here

Tragedy scarred the Jewish Quarter in 1298 during the "Rindfleisch pogrom," a dark chapter where many Jews, including "The Mordechai," his wife, and their five children, fell victim to violence. Survivors were forcibly expelled, and their homes were redistributed to destitute non-Jewish residents from the city and its environs. Two decades later, these homes were vacated, the legacy of the Jewish neighborhood razed to erect the square we see today

In 1980, renovations at the Frauenkirche Church unearthed an astonishing revelation beneath the floor tiles: remnants of a medieval Jewish synagogue's mosaic flooring and a Mikveh concealed within. Evidently, the Nürnberg cathedral stood atop the ruins of an ancient synagogue from the Jewish quarter. Unfortunately, the mosaic and historical remnants have since been obscured, buried beneath layers of earth as the floor was replaced.

In the 16th century, Jews were permitted once more to reside in Nürnberg, establishing a new Jewish Quarter that endured for about three centuries until the ravages of World War II. The synagogue, located at 28 Wunderburger Street, fell victim to American bombings during the war. The new Jewish Quarter was razed, and replaced by new residences, yet the old street names from that era persist to this day

Venturing to the site today, there's a stark absence of Jewish life. Standing at the intersection of Judengasse (Jewish Street) and Wonderburggasse, a traffic sign reads "No Entrance." The symbolism cuts deep. Those responsible for placing the sign may have been oblivious to its historical weight, yet inadvertently it echoes a haunting history: "JEWS NO ENTER." Such inadvertent slips often reveal deeper truths

Nürnberg: The Epicenter of Nazism's Legacy

Nürnberg, often termed the ideological heart of the Nazi movement, remains a haunting place for many Jews, even more so than Berlin. When I announced my plans to travel here, friends and family questioned the choice. Yet, I firmly believe that just as we visit Holocaust sites in Poland and Auschwitz, it's crucial to delve into the roots of the Holocaust. Walking the streets of Nürnberg, adorned with a Kippah, feels akin to traversing Auschwitz draped in the Israeli flag

The Jewish Holocaust unfolded in this city. In 1933, the Nazis initiated grand parades through its streets, drawing nearly a million participants from across Germany, a staggering number in a city of only a quarter-million inhabitants. Some structures lining the parade route still stand today, haunting relics of a dark past

The climax of the 1935 parade birthed the infamous "Nürnberg Laws." Initially titled "The Law for the Preservation and Dignity of Aryan Blood," it categorized individuals as "pure Aryan," stripping German Jews of citizenship and relegating them to second-class citizens, disallowing intermarriage and prohibiting them from employing Aryans. The conference transpired within the "Hall of Culture" at the intersection of Zeliner Street and Frauenlograbe. The original edifice succumbed to World War II bombings, replaced by an innocuous office building that bears no remembrance of the historical horror it once housed. Contemplating the workers within, I wrestled with a surge of emotions, resisting the impulse to disdainfully mark its black pillars

The building has no commemorative sign for the historical horror that was there. Our hearts are soured by its peaceful and innocent appearance today. It is difficult to understand how the workers in the place can live with the chilling history of their current workplace. For a moment, I wanted to spit on its black pillars, but I held back

Seeking solace, I journeyed to the terminus of the Holocaust: the site of the "Nürnberg Trials." In 1945, this hallowed ground witnessed the trial of top Nazi criminals by an international tribunal in Hall 600 of the Nürnberg Criminal Court within the Palace of Justice. Preserved in its original state, this hall now welcomes visitors, echoing with the specter of figures like Herman Goering, Rudolph Hess, and Martin Bormann. These trials served as the foundation for subsequent trials, including the Eichmann trial in Jerusalem

Between the enactment of the "Nürnberg Laws" and the "Nürnberg Trials" lay the tragic episode of "Kristallnacht" in 1938, igniting the torching of all synagogues in Germany. Now, where once stood the prominent Nürnberg synagogues, monuments of remembrance stand

The main synagogue was on the banks of the Pegnitz River near Katzenburger Street. Nowadays there is a large memorial monument with a bronze plaque with an illustration of the synagogue. In front of it there is a stone pillar that is reminiscent of cantor's pillar, and on it there is an original sooty stone that remains from the synagogue wall. Engraved inscriptions in Hebrew in German and English quoting Proverbs book in the Bible: "If thou sayest: 'Behold, we knew not this', doth not He that weigheth the hearts consider it? And He that keepeth thy soul, doth not He know it? And shall not He render to every man according to his works?"           i

Elsewhere, at the former site of the "Adat Yisrael" synagogue on Essenwein Street, a monument emblazoned with the synagogue's facade invokes Deuteronomy's verse "Remember what Amalek did unto thee", of Deuteronomy 25/17

The memorial stands in a way that is partly on the sidewalk and partly on the road, intending to cause pedestrians to deviate their pass, and to look and remember. The rabbi of the synagogue, Rabbi Avraham Yitzhak Klein, who was also the chief rabbi of Nürnberg, immigrated to Israel with his family after Kristallnacht. His son-in-law is currently running the Wolf Seminar in Jerusalem

Most Nürnberg Jews, foreseeing the looming horror, departed before the Holocaust's devastation. In the 1930s, of the 4,200 Jews residing here, the majority immigrated to Israel, settling primarily in Tel Aviv and Nahariya, while others sought refuge in different countries. By 1939, merely 50 Jews remained, later deported to extermination camps. In contrast, distant Polish and Hungarian Jews, oblivious to the Nazis' menace, delayed fleeing until escape was futile

In our era, Nürnberg's mayors strive to reconcile the city's past. Twenty-five years ago, they inaugurated "Human Rights Avenue" at the city center, symbolically significant in a city haunted by the gravest human rights violations. Crafted by Israeli artist Danny Caravan, this monumental avenue stands as a global beacon for tourists, especially Israelis

This monument comprises a stone gateway on Katauser Street, transformed into a pedestrian pathway, adorned with the inscription "Do not murder" in lieu of a mezuzah on its lintel

Thirty stone pillars line the avenue, each etched with a chapter from the United Nations Human Rights Charter, their titles inscribed in German and translated into various languages worldwide, including Yiddish on the foremost pillar

The fifteenth pillar prominently displays the Hebrew title: "Everyone has the right to a national home."    I

 

A Visit to the Doco Center:

Traces of the Third Reich

In our exploration of history's shadows, we must also venture into the "Doco Center," Germany's equivalent of Yad Vashem for the Third Reich

What strikes profoundly about this museum is its restrained mention of the Jewish Holocaust, relegated to a solitary corner toward the exhibition's end

The museum’s narrative predominantly centers on Hitler's victims being the German populace and the democratic fabric of the nation. Really?!… The German are the victims of Natzism?…   i

 Most of the display deals with the Nazi show parades in Nürnberg, and with the elements of the German government and army on its various units and missions. The "Nürnberg laws" have detailed explanations but with the modesty of the Jewish aspects. Explain that the Nazis expelled and killed Germans who were communists, disabled, mad, Gypsies, and … also the Jews as well. That it! Maybe that's why the exhibit explanations are in German only. Tourists who want to understand what they see should rent a recording device with explanations in other languages

The Doco Center stands adjacent to the colossal, yet unfinished, megalomaniacal building designed for Hitler's convention center. Resembling the grandeur of Rome's Coliseum but several times larger, this edifice was intended to accommodate 50,000 individuals. As I departed the museum, an unexpected sight awaited in its parking lot—a circus, a perhaps ironic expression of German sensibility

This convention center sprawls across hundreds of acres, featuring a two-mile straight parade route, 60 feet wide. At its terminus lies the "Zeppelin Plot," historically significant for hosting military orders at the parades' conclusion, often marked by Hitler's salutes to his soldiers

Notably, post-war, the American Army orchestrated its victory parade at this very site. The pinnacle of this event was the detonation of a colossal swastika above the ceremonial stage. Here, visual archives juxtapose today's serene images with those of the Hitler era

Nürnberg: Beyond its Historical Significance

Nürnberg isn't solely defined by its historical echoes; the city boasts a myriad of tourist hotspots and museums. Its Old Town, nestled with picturesque streets, beckons strolls along Koenigstrasse Street. On this route, flanked by St. Lorenz's Church and San Zabeldos Church, my guide praised their interior beauty, but as a personal choice, I refrained from entering

The winding Pegnitz River reveals the Heilig-Geist Hospital and a charming bridge reminiscent of Venice's Rialto Bridge. Crossing the Kettensteg Bridge, Europe's oldest iron chain bridge, promises another visual delight

Weissgerbergasse, a captivating street, speaks volumes for itself—a scene right off a postcard. As we meander through Nürnberg's Old City, each step feels like a picturesque journey

Another beautiful street to walk in is Weissgerbergasse. This picture speaks for itself and saves explanations

As we wander through the old city of Nürnberg, we feel like we are walking in a postcard

The Old City walls and the circular imperial Frauentorturm castle greet visitors at the main train station, providing a glimpse into the city's medieval past. Passing through the castle's left-side entrance reveals alleys adorned with cafes and green spaces, transporting us to the Middle Ages

The city hosts an array of art galleries and 13 museums, catering to diverse interests—from the History and Urban Museums to eclectic showcases like the Hat, Car, Red Cross, and Fire Department Museums

The Museum of Railways and Transportation flaunts the "Adler" locomotive, leading Germany's first commercial train in 1835, alongside historic train cars, vintage vehicles, and unique antique tractors

Art enthusiasts will revel in the Municipal Museum's treasure trove, potentially occupying an entire day

Families visiting with children can revel in a day at the Toy Museum and the Playmobil theme park, offering Lego and Playmobil installations and self-building complexes—a haven for kids. A trip to the Nürnberg Giant Zoo is also recommended for families

For efficient travel, the Nürnberg Card allows free two-day public transportation and site entries

Shopaholics can indulge in the city's array of clothing and electronics stores. The north offers outlets of renowned sports brands like Adidas and Puma, though prices might resemble those in Israel

Nature lovers can explore hiking trails along the "Romantic Road" (Highway 470), passing through green landscapes, small forests, farms, and villages—a serene retreat

Entertainment aficionados can revel in dance clubs, pubs, and beer stands lining the Old City's main streets. Food enthusiasts, especially non-kosher eaters, shouldn't miss the famous Nürnberger bratwurst and gourmet dining experiences

Judaism today

Present-day Nürnberg hosts approximately 4,000 Jews, most having immigrated from Russia in recent generations. Unlike the past, there isn't a designated Jewish quarter; instead, the Jewish community resides harmoniously across the city, fostering amicable relationships with their non-Jewish neighbors

The city houses two active synagogues. The Chabad House at 52 Regensburger Street conducts daily prayers, with the synagogue entrance situated at the back, on the left side of the house

On Saturday, when I was in Nürnberg, only twenty Jews came to pray in Chabad house. The shaliach, Rabbi Eliezer Khitrick, says that about 300 Jews come to Chabad on Jewish holidays, so he rents a banquet hall for prayers. On Yom Kippur, 80 Jews come to pray in the synagogue. Rabbi Khitrick also offers kosher meals for pre-booked groups. The Chabad House also has a modern and luxurious Mikveh

 

Photos: Christine Dierenbach, Uwe_Niklas, and Jacob Maor

Thanks to Mrs. Sarha Morsdorf of the Nürnberg Tourist Office for providing guidance and information for this article