Despite its name, Split does not divide or separate people but instead connects visitors, including those exploring Jewish heritage. The city boasts numerous attractions, some of which are tied to its rich Jewish history. With many Israelis visiting Split each year, it’s well worth discovering the unique heritage sites that hold special significance for Jewish travelers.

Our journey through Split begins at the Tourist Bureau, conveniently located on the promenade overlooking the sea. Here, visitors can find helpful guidance, maps, and brochures highlighting the city’s diverse attractions. Split’s most beautiful and significant landmarks are all within walking distance, making it easy to explore and enjoy everything the city has to offer in just one day.

From the promenade, a narrow street winds its way toward the Old City. At the corner of this street stands a historic house that once belonged to a wealthy merchant. In 1898, Sigmund Freud stayed here for several days while traveling from Vienna to Venice. Today, a commemorative plaque at the front door honors this notable visit.

    

Palace of Diocletian

The Old City of Split carries a fascinating historical connection to Roman Emperor Gaius Aurelius Valerius Diocletian Augustus, who ruled from 284 to 305 CE. During his reign, the administrative capital was the nearby city of Salona. Seeking a retreat near the sea, Diocletian built a magnificent palace approximately 7 kilometers from Salona, in a small town then known as Aspalathos or Spalato—now called Split.

Interestingly, Diocletian has unique ties to Jewish history. According to the Jerusalem Talmud, he spent his youth in Tiberias as a pig herdsman before rising through the ranks of the Roman army to eventually become Emperor. Diocletian is said to have been a frequent visitor to the Land of Israel and developed a close friendship with Rabbi Yehuda HaNasi. The Jerusalem Talmud recounts that on one occasion, Diocletian issued a tax cut for all his subjects, explicitly excluding the Jewish community from this burden. His relationship with Jewish rabbis was marked by mutual respect, and he often sought their counsel.

Construction of the Diocletian Palace began in 295 CE, during the late Mishnaic period. It took a decade to complete, with the labor of 16,000 slaves. Today, the palace remains a central feature of Split’s Old City. Its layout includes two main streets that intersect, one of which is named "Cardo," reminiscent of the ancient Cardo in Jerusalem, complete with imposing columns.

In the heart of the city stands the iconic bell tower, constructed in the 13th century using bricks imported from Egypt. Along with the bricks, several sphinxes were also brought over. One of these ancient sphinxes now resides in Peristyle Square at the foot of the tower, adding a unique touch of history to the site.

The bell tower soars to an impressive height of 60 meters, and climbing to the upper level is highly recommended for its stunning panoramic views of the city. However, the ascent itself can be physically demanding due to the narrow, steep, and uneven stairs. The steps are significantly higher than usual, with some reaching heights of 30 cm and even up to 50 cm. For those who are not in good physical condition, it might be best to forgo the climb. However, for those who make the effort, the breathtaking views from the top are well worth the challenge.

The palace gate is located in Peristyle Square. Before stepping into the palace grounds, it’s worth exploring the underground chambers accessible through an entrance beneath the gate. Beneath the palace lie 67 underground rooms of varying sizes, originally built for storage and industrial purposes. Today, these atmospheric spaces serve as venues for concerts, wine-tasting events, and official municipal dinners during special occasions. Notably, several scenes from the TV series Game of Thrones and the movie The Dark Tower were filmed in these historic chambers, adding a touch of cinematic allure to the site.

Various symbols are engraved on the walls of several underground chambers. In one of the halls, two small Menorah symbols were discovered, including one at the entrance to the same hall. Each symbol measures approximately 10 cm in size, and archaeologists have dated them to around 330 CE. The reasons behind these engravings are debated. Some scholars suggest that they were carved by the workers who built the palace and its surrounding warehouses, while others propose that they mark the space of a Jewish merchant, indicating the area assigned to him within the storage complex.

     

The palace is home to a grand cathedral and a museum dedicated to Christian history. Within the palace grounds, we also find residential buildings. In the 7th century, when the capital city of Salona was conquered, many of its inhabitants fled to Split, settling within the palace. Among the refugees were Jews. Documents from 1937 reference a synagogue in Split, indicating the presence of an organized Jewish community. While nothing remains of the synagogue today, it is believed to have been located adjacent to the south wall of the palace, possibly in or near one of the nearby houses.

The Jewish ghetto 

We leave the palace area and continue our tour to the ancient synagogue. Heading northeast along Rodrigina Street, we enter a significant part of Split’s history. Until the 16th century, Split was just a small town on the Adriatic coast. One of its Jewish residents, Daniel Rodrigo, proposed to the Venetian government the establishment of a port in Split to facilitate trade between Turkey, India, and the broader Eastern world. After considerable effort, Rodrigo was granted permission to build the port, which he financed himself. This development sparked an economic boom in Split, propelling it ahead of neighboring towns in wealth and influence. Later, Rodrigo founded the first bank in Split, cementing his status as a key figure in the city's history. Locals continue to honor his memory, and his contributions benefit the Jewish community to this day.

Though the Jewish population was relatively small, numbering only 200-300 people, Jews held prominent roles in the city from the 16th century onward. One of the main streets in the Old City, Rodrigina Street, is named in his honor. This street connects the palace to the Jewish ghetto, where many houses were built in the 14th and 15th centuries. On the doorframes of some of these ancient homes, you can still find small slits that once held

From Rodrigina Street, Zidovski Prolaz branches off, and the synagogue is located at the corner of the street. Built in 1510 next to the city wall, this synagogue's eastern wall and the rear of the Holy Ark are actually part of the wall itself. In the northeastern corner of the synagogue, you can still see a section of the original wall stones, left uncovered by plaster. This synagogue continues to stand today and is one of the three oldest synagogues in Europe, alongside those in Dubrovnik and Prague.

The synagogue was built in the style of Romaniote Jews, with worshippers sitting on benches arranged back-to-back and perpendicular to the Holy Ark. The Holy Ark itself, however, was added later by Ashkenazi Jews. The Torah reading platform, positioned at the far end of the synagogue, is unusually high compared to those in most synagogues, giving it a distinctive appearance.

I couldn't find any Romaniote-style prayer books, but I did come across Sephardic-style ones, such as Yehave Daat and Aram Tsova. I visited during Elul, but did not find a Selichot prayer book in the synagogue. There was a shofar on a pillar, and I had the opportunity to blow it.

In discussions with members of the Jewish community, I learned that the synagogue is primarily used for prayers on holidays. On Friday evenings, the local Jewish community gathers, but they don't pray together. Occasionally, groups of religious tourists from Israel or England request to attend minyan prayers, and the local Jews are happy to accommodate them, as this aligns with the synagogue's mission. Today, there are only about a hundred Jews registered in the community, with no rabbi or cantor. Most members are secular, and only about 30 actively attend services.

I was invited to a Kabbalat Shabbat ceremony, held in a large room on the floor below the synagogue. Around ten women and four older men attended, most of whom were over 60. One of the women lit the Shabbat candles in a large silver candlestick, and I was honored to recite the Kiddush. Afterward, we shared Hamotzi over two challahs, baked by one of the women. A brief derasha on Parshat Hashavua followed, and the Kabbalat Shabbat prayer concluded. The participants then lingered to chat.

On one hand, this gathering may fall short of what is expected according to Halacha. On the other hand, their efforts to preserve some form of Jewish tradition deserve to be appreciated, even if it differs from our usual practices.

The Jewish Museum

Below the synagogue is a modest museum, where signs on the walls provide information about the history of the community, the synagogue, and its renovations. However, I was unable to find any references in the Jewish Museum to the rich local Jewish history that predates the last century.

In recent centuries, many prominent rabbis and yeshiva leaders have had a profound influence on the Jewish world. In Split, there was the "Shevet Achim" yeshiva, which trained many students who went on to hold rabbinical positions across Southeast European Jewish communities. The community also maintained a close connection with Eretz Israel, with many Shadarim passing through Split. One of the notable heads of the yeshiva was Rabbi Ya'akov Musafia, the author of the Talmudic dictionary.

For the past 250 years, and still today in yeshivas across Israel, students study the book Maskil LeDavid, a commentary on Rashi’s explanations of the Torah. I too studied this book in my youth, and it is likely familiar to many readers of this article. The author of this timeless work was Rabbi David Pardo, the chief rabbi of Split in the 18th century and the son-in-law of the renowned Rabbi HIDA. The book's cover page proudly states, "Here at KK Espaltero," referring to the old name of Split.

Rabbi David Pardo also authored several important works, including Michtam LeDavid, Shoshanim LeDavid on the Mishna, and Chasdey David on Seder Ta'arot. In 1782, he immigrated to Eretz Yisrael, where he served as the head of the Yeshiva Chesed LeAvraham. Rabbi Pardo is buried on the Mount of Olives, next to the tomb of the Rashash. One of his descendants in Israel was, until recently, the head of the Mossad.

Before Rabbi Pardo, the Chief Rabbi of Split was Rabbi Shmaya Shmuel Papo, the author of Pachad Yitzhak. After Rabbi Pardo's move to Jerusalem, Rabbi Shabtai Ventura, the author of Nahar Shalom, succeeded him as the rabbi of Split.

The historical ties between the local Jewish community and Israel have always been strong, though most tourists are unaware of this. Today, the Jewish community in Split is a mere shadow of its former glory in the 18th and 19th centuries.

The Jews of Split also had their own unique holiday. Every year on the 7th of Adar, they commemorated a miraculous event that occurred in the 18th century. The community's leaders, including Rabbi David Pardo, were falsely accused and arrested. They were acquitted on the 7th of Adar, and Rabbi Pardo composed special piyyutim (liturgical poems) to mark the occasion. This day became a holiday for future generations, with his written texts recited publicly.

For us, Orthodox Jews, the great rabbis of Split are as significant as Nobel Prize winners in the world of science. Although we may not know the exact locations where each of them lived, we do know that they all prayed and gave Torah lectures in the ancient synagogue. When we visit this sacred place, we must honor their memory and recognize its spiritual significance. As G-d told Moses, "Take your sandals off your feet, for the place you are standing on is holy ground" (Exodus 3:5).

Pjaca Square

As we exit the synagogue and walk towards the sea via Bosanska Street, we pass through the nearby Pjaca Square, also known as "People's Square." In 1942, during the Italian fascist occupation, the holy books were removed from the synagogue, thrown into this square, and set on fire.

During this time, a nearby bookstore owned by the Jewish Morfurgo family was also looted, and its contents were thrown into the flames. Today, Nena Morfurgo, a descendant of Split's oldest Jewish family, serves as the Vice President of the Jewish community. Her family owned the store until it was confiscated during the Italian fascist period.

In 2018, the municipality of Split installed a copper memorial plaque in Pjaca Square, at the very spot where the fascist fire occurred. The plaque reads in Croatian:

"On Saturday, June 12, 1942, during prayer, a group of fascists broke into the synagogue and Jewish community building near the Jewish bookstore and print shop of Weed Morfurgo, destroying centuries of Jewish culture. We will not forget and will never let it happen again.

Split Municipality, June 12, 2018"

The Jews Tower

In the 18th century, priests incited the villagers surrounding Split to attack the Jewish community. As the villagers descended from the mountains to carry out a pogrom, the Christian residents of Split rallied to defend the Jewish ghetto.

When the Austrians took control of Split in 1738, they imposed a decree requiring Jews to wear colored hats for identification. At that time, there were two distinct Jewish communities in Split. The "Pontoons," who came from Ashkenaz and Spain, were required to wear yellow hats, while the "Levantines," who came from Turkey, were required to wear red hats. This decree led many Jews to leave the city, and the once-thriving community began to diminish.

The Golden Gate

Just a minute's walk from the Jewish Tower, along the city wall, is the "Golden Gate."

Before descending to the gate, we pass a statue about two stories high— the Grgur Ninski Statue. Grgur Ninski was a key figure in the 10th century who helped connect Croatia to the Catholic Church. The statue’s toes are particularly noticeable, as they are bright and shiny from being rubbed by visitors. Many people in Split believe that rubbing the toe of the statue brings good luck.

As we re-enter the city through the Golden Gate, the narrow streets to our right are part of the Jewish ghetto we visited earlier.

The Museum of Archeology

The exhibits are fascinating, but what is equally remarkable is the Museum's approach to Judaism. We are treated with respect and equality, much like the representations of the various Christian denominations. There is no sense of discrimination. To the locals, Jews are an integral part of Split's history, and there is no feeling of being "outsiders" here, as we sometimes experience elsewhere in the world.

Address: Zrinsko Frankopanska 25.

Republic Square

The old Jewish cemetery

We continue our tour south towards the promenade. To the west of the city lies the picturesque Marjan Hill, offering a stunning view of the main pier and bay. At the base of the hill, you'll find beautiful villas and homes nestled along the landscape.

Around 450 years ago, when Marjan Hill was still undeveloped, Daniel Rodrigo purchased a large plot of land with the intention of establishing a Jewish cemetery. Over the centuries, the cemetery was filled, and a new Jewish cemetery was later established elsewhere in the city. The small building that once served as a purifying room has now been converted into a restaurant. Above the entrance, you can still find the Hebrew inscription "Tziduk Hadin," meaning "Justification of the Law." Occasionally, the cemetery gate may be locked due to past vandalism, but if this is the case, the key can be obtained from the restaurant next door.

      

The tombstones are often hidden beneath layers of fallen leaves and pine needles, making them difficult to spot and increasing the risk of accidentally stepping on one without realizing it.

I had the privilege of meeting Mayor Andro Krstulovic Opara, and during our conversation, I mentioned that I had been searching for Daniel Rodrigo's grave without success. The mayor shared with me that another prominent Jewish figure, Vid Morpurgo, a local cultural hero, was also buried in the cemetery. Morpurgo was a popular writer, a major publisher, and the founder of a bank in Split. One of his descendants, Nena Morpurgo, was present at our meeting. The mayor also mentioned plans to improve the Jewish cemetery by paving comfortable pathways, installing benches for rest, and marking the tombstones of notable individuals like Rodrigo and Morpurgo.

Tourism plays a significant role in Split's economy, and Mayor Krstulovic Opara shared that the city attracts around 780,000 tourists annually, with about 2,500 of them being Israelis. Many of the Israeli visitors are from the religious community, and in the first eight months of this year, 1,700 Israeli tourists had visited Split—a 20% increase compared to the previous year. The mayor also highlighted that Split Airport handled 3.3 million passengers last year, surpassing even Zagreb Airport.

The mayor further mentioned that every year, he receives inquiries from Israelis whose families originate from Split, asking for assistance in locating the graves of their ancestors. Additionally, the city hosts numerous training camps for athletes, with many Israeli groups, particularly in judo, often participating.

Eating Kosher in Split