In Sri Lanka, legend has it that the port of Galle is the biblical city of "Tarshish" where King Solomon dispatched merchant vessels. The Bible recounts: "For the king's ships went to Tarshish with the servants of Huram. Every three years once came the ships of Tarshish bringing gold, and silver, ivory, and apes, and peacocks" (2 Chronicles 9:21)

While Israeli tourism to Sri Lanka has been relatively limited thus far, this is poised to change with the recent introduction of direct flights to Colombo, the island's capital, by Arkia Airlines. Although Arkia currently operates only one weekly flight, it's a far cry from the biblical "every three years once."    i

Attempting to encapsulate all of Sri Lanka's magnificent tourist sites in one go is a daunting task. Therefore, we've split our review into two parts: one focusing on selected attractions in the lowlands and beaches, and the other on sites in the mountainous regions at the island's center. Let's start with the coastal areas

Galle

Galle, believed by some to be the ancient city of Tarshish, stands as a testament to Sri Lanka's rich history, surrounded by fortress walls reminiscent of Acre. When the Portuguese seized control of Sri Lanka in the 16th century, they established a seaport in Galle's bay. Initially, they only fortified the side facing the city, leaving the seaside vulnerable. However, the Dutch, upon capturing Sri Lanka, expanded and fortified the port, making it the largest maritime hub in Ceylon. Merchants from India and Europe flocked here to trade goods and purchase local gemstones, transforming the area into a formidable fortress adorned with ancient cannons atop its walls

The gateway to Galle's fortress was situated within the largest structure on-site, serving as an arsenal and pharmacy in bygone eras. Today, it houses a maritime museum. Over the gateway, the Dutch placed a substantial concrete protrusion, later replaced by the British with their emblem upon their arrival. Despite the British later constructing a larger port in Colombo, Galle's significance dwindled in comparison

The fortress, resembling a small village, boasts a striking white lighthouse, though it's the youngest addition to the site, erected by the British in 1938, a decade before their departure from the island. A stroll through the fortress and along its walls is akin to traversing the pages of a captivating history book

Yala National Park

Are you eager to witness elephants in their natural habitat?     i

In Sri Lanka's nature reserves, there are approximately 10,000 tagged elephants, alongside an undisclosed number of untagged ones. These majestic creatures roam freely within lush jungles and protected areas, with the largest reserve being the renowned Yala National Park situated in the southern region of Sri Lanka. Encompassing a sprawling expanse of 950 square kilometers, it dwarfs even the size of Tel Aviv

Embark on a thrilling safari adventure within Yala's expansive grounds, traversing rugged terrain in specially outfitted safari vehicles. As you delve into the heart of the reserve, prepare to encounter a mesmerizing array of wildlife, including elephants, buffaloes, peacocks, crocodiles, monkeys, and an array of bird species

Initially, our journey unveiled only glimpses of lounging buffaloes and the graceful movements of iguanas and peacocks. However, anticipation surged as our experienced driver led us deeper into the wilderness. Soon, we were treated to sightings of elusive crocodiles, graceful deer, and awe-inspiring elephants, culminating in the exhilarating discovery of a solitary leopard camouflaged amidst the foliage. The atmosphere buzzed with excitement, particularly as children marveled at the majestic creatures roaming freely before them

While the reserve is also home to around 70 leopards, spotting these elusive felines is a rare occurrence. We were fortunate to catch sight of one gracefully retreating into the shadows. As our journey continued, we navigated through rugged trails, marred by rain-induced pits and ruts, creating a thrilling yet bumpy safari experience unsuitable for those with back ailments

For optimal wildlife sightings, it's advisable to explore the reserve during the cooler hours of dawn or dusk when animals are more active. During the scorching midday heat, creatures seek refuge in shaded retreats, limiting their visibility

Udawalawe Nature Reserve

The Udawalawe Nature Reserve, while smaller in size compared to Yala, is teeming with diverse wildlife and offers captivating safari tours. One of its most compelling attractions is the nearby "Elephant Orphanage," a sanctuary for abandoned elephant calves. These calves are deemed orphans as they lost their mothers due to human-induced disturbances that scattered the herd, leading to their separation. Even elephant mothers can experience 'postpartum depression,' leading them to neglect nursing their calves. In the wild, orphaned calves face perilous circumstances as they are unable to survive without their mother's milk. Hence, orphaned elephant calves are rescued and brought to orphanages across the island, where they undergo medical treatment and rehabilitation programs akin to those for human infants, involving bottle feeding

While human interaction with young elephants can disrupt their rehabilitation process, visitors to the Udawalawe Orphanage are permitted to observe elephant feeding sessions, offering an unforgettable experience. Overlooking the feeding area are concrete benches reminiscent of those found in football stadiums, providing spectators with a prime viewing spot

Adjacent to the feeding area is a shaded space resembling a calf milk station commonly seen in Israeli kibbutzim. Here, stainless steel pipes filled with specially formulated milk enriched with essential vitamins for elephants are stationed. Attendants equipped with pipes approximately 30 cm in diameter, featuring meter-long hoses, gently insert them into the calf's mouth and dispense milk from canisters attached to the pipes. Each baby elephant typically receives two canisters of milk, although some may express a desire for more, eliciting excited trumpet calls akin to a horn demanding additional nourishment. However, attendants encourage them to gradually transition to foraging for food in the wild as they grow and develop

After receiving their milk, the baby elephants make their way to the audience platform, where plastic troughs brimming with rice and corn kernels await them. With gentle trunks, they scoop up the mixture and delicately transfer it into their mouths. As more elephants join in, a playful flurry ensues. Some playfully dip a leg into the trough, while others tug at it eagerly. There's an air of jubilation as they feast. The tiniest elephant calves content themselves with whatever scraps their larger siblings leave behind, scattered on the ground. Afterwards, they leisurely munch on leaves and branches from a designated tree brought to the site, all just about 5 meters away from the audience platform

Gathering together for a meal fosters the development of social skills among the calves. Occasionally, there are minor squabbles over food or turns, reminiscent of scenes from a children's kindergarten. Each group of elephant calves exhibits its own unique personality, ranging from relaxed to nervous or impatient. To maintain order and tranquility, attendants may occasionally need to use gentle encouragement or guidance

The young elephants are fed three times a day, at 10:30, 14:30, and 18:00, and observing their feeding routine is both delightful and captivating, lasting approximately half an hour. It's an experience that's sure to enchant both children and adults alike

Once elephant calves reach the age of 5-7 and demonstrate mature behavioral skills, they are ready to be released into the nature reserve. Each one is equipped with a small GPS transmitter, enabling remote monitoring of their integration into adult independent life. In the wild, elephants prefer living in herds and groups comprised of females and their calves, typically without adult males. When a calf reaches the age of 13-15, it undergoes its "bar mitzvah" and embarks on its journey, either roaming alone or joining a herd of males

The Udawalawe Reserve is encircled by an electric fence, serving as a barrier to deter elephants and other wildlife from venturing into village territories and raiding their crops. Along the intercity road that runs parallel to the reserve, one can often spot an elephant lingering near the fence, visibly wary of the potential shock it may receive upon contact. Nonetheless, it patiently awaits the arrival of tourists, who eagerly snap photos beside it and offer treats such as sandwiches procured from nearby hotels. On occasion, locals set up makeshift stalls across the road, selling bundles of corn stalks to feed the elephants. These intelligent creatures have astutely learned these strategic points and have even memorized the schedules of tourist arrivals

Interestingly, we discovered that in other reserves across Sri Lanka, elephants have developed ingenious methods to navigate around electric fences. One such method involves an elephant procuring a branch approximately 3 meters in length. With precision, she positions one end of the branch on the ground and the other atop the upper wire of the electric fence, which carries a positive current. By applying pressure on the branch, she lowers the wire until it connects with the middle wire, carrying a negative current. This ingenious maneuver creates a short circuit, effectively disabling the entire fence system and allowing her and her herd to traverse through unscathed. It leaves one pondering: where did these elephants acquire such knowledge of electronics and physics?…       i

Weligama

Weligama, nestled in southern Sri Lanka, is a haven for surfing aficionados, particularly beloved by Israeli visitors. Its beaches offer waves catering to surfers of all levels, from seasoned pros seeking the thrill of high and vigorous waves to novices looking to dip their toes in gentler waters. The town boasts numerous surfing schools and a plethora of opportunities for adventurous water sports

During the winter season, Israelis flock to Weligama and its western shores, drawn by the promise of rain-free days amidst intense heat and humidity. Alongside the city's picturesque beaches, diving enthusiasts can explore underwater wonders, from graceful sea turtles to vibrant marine life, and even catch a glimpse of majestic dolphins and whales further out at sea. Strolling along the main street, visitors can peruse bustling markets offering bargain-priced clothing. As dusk falls, the vibrant nightlife comes alive, with cafes, bars, and restaurants beckoning with delectable delights. Notably, Chabad House stands out among the culinary offerings, serving up kosher meals infused with a taste of Israel, including beloved dishes like shakshuka and hummus. For those seeking relaxation, Weligama boasts spa and natural medicine centers offering indulgent massage treatments to suit every budget

Weligama stands as a unique enclave in Sri Lanka, where snippets of Hebrew conversations can be overheard on its streets. An Israeli-owned guesthouse adds to the sense of familiarity and comfort for visitors

A charming tradition once practiced by Sri Lankan fishermen involved perching on sturdy branches jutting from the seabed near the shore, casting their lines into the water. Though this method has largely given way to more modern techniques, visitors can still witness this age-old practice on beaches near Weligama

Children eager to impress tourists often showcase this method, clambering up wooden poles erected in the sand. However, be prepared for requests for compensation from the older guardians for capturing these moments through photographs

Arugam Bay

Tucked away on the southeastern coast near Pottuvil, Arugam Bay is a quaint settlement renowned as a mecca for surfers worldwide. Israeli surfers, in particular, flock to its sandy shores during the summer months, enticed by the formation of natural "water pipes" created by sand accumulation on the seabed—perfect for exhilarating rides. However, caution is advised due to the rocky bottom

Adjacent to the town lies the aptly named "Baby" beach, offering smaller waves ideal for novice surfers and the companions of seasoned riders

Surf enthusiasts will find no shortage of options in the beach town, with numerous surf shops offering rentals and sales of surfboards and related gear

Colombo

Colombo, the vibrant capital city of Sri Lanka, pulsates with life and activity, albeit often entangled in traffic snarls in its bustling center

Dominating the cityscape is the imposing Independence Memorial Hall, an architectural ode to the nation's emancipation from British rule, celebrated three months prior to our declaration of independence in 1948. Resembling the Parliament building in Kandy, this grand structure boasts a roof upheld by numerous towering pillars, offering an open-air space. Sri Lanka's Independence Day sees the hall serving as the backdrop for military and school parades, with the president and dignitaries observing from within, while the jubilant crowds line the adjacent streets, erupting in cheers

Flanking the hall's ends are notable landmarks: at one, a majestic statue pays homage to Don Stephen Senanayake, hailed as "the Father of the Nation," Sri Lanka's inaugural Prime Minister post-independence; at the other, a lush lawn unfolds before a renovated edifice once housing the British-built psychiatric hospital, now reborn as a thriving shopping mall following meticulous restoration in 2010

Standing sentinel at the entrance to the BMICH convention center is a towering statue of Buddha, a serene beacon amidst the urban bustle

A prominent silhouette on Colombo's skyline is the Lotus Tower, a towering communications hub crowned with antennas, beneath which lie two floors hosting a revolving restaurant affording panoramic city views and a spacious event hall

Among the city's architectural gems is the Lotus Pond Theater building, a modern circular structure adorned with lotus petal-like forms, evoking the delicate beauty of its namesake flower

As one approaches the Colombo Harbor entrance, twin stupas flank the roadway, forming an ornate gateway under which vehicles pass, lending a touch of grandeur to the bustling port thoroughfare

Nearby, the historic Old City Hall commands attention, its facade adorned with numerous Star of David motifs, a curious feature steeped in legend. Some attribute these symbols to a whimsical act of defiance by a Jewish architect against city contractors, while others deem them mere geometric embellishments, shrouded in mystery

Further down the street, nestled amidst the neighborhood houses, emerges the Red Mosque, a breathtaking architectural marvel adorned with vibrant hues, a testament to the rich cultural tapestry of Sri Lanka

Continuing onward, one encounters the Gangaramaya Temple, where the entrance courtyard beckons with the serene presence of two Buddha statues, one of which bears a swastika relief upon its chest, a symbol steeped in ancient significance but unrelated to its modern connotations

Though initially hesitant to enter due to the swastika, my hosts from the tourism office reassured me that it holds no association with Nazism but rather serves as a graphic emblem of spiritual auspice. Within the temple's sacred confines, a symphony of Buddha statues in varying sizes and hues adorns the space, accompanied by intricate wall paintings that narrate tales of devotion and enlightenment. Locals pay homage with offerings of white and purple lotus flowers, alongside plates brimming with carefully selected fruits

Inside the temple's sanctum, towering Buddha statues command reverence, while elaborate wall paintings serve as a visual feast for the soul

Navigating the delicate question of entering a place of worship foreign to one's faith, I rely on the precedent set by rulings permitting entry into churches and artistic venues devoid of idolatrous practices. However, each individual must seek guidance from their spiritual leaders regarding the permissibility of such visits

An ancient Jewish adage posits that a community's history is etched in the stones of its cemetery—a sentiment equally applicable to Sri Lanka. Within the Borella cemetery of central Colombo lie tombs that offer glimpses into the Jewish legacy of the city. A weathered tombstone, adorned with Hebrew inscriptions, commemorates the life of a young girl who succumbed to illness—a poignant reminder of the Hebrew-speaking Jewish families who once called this place home

Adjacent lies the resting place of Avraham, son of Rabbi Gershon, his tombstone bearing testament to the presence of Rabbi Gershon in Colombo in 1898

In the Borella cemetery, amidst the silent rows of graves, I chanced upon two poignant Jewish tombstones adorned with the proud Star of David. Nestled within the British military section of the cemetery, these markers stand as solemn witnesses to a shared history. Amongst the resting place of nearly a hundred British soldiers lie the remains of two Jewish brethren

Their tombstones whisper tales of valor and sacrifice, recounting a chapter from the tumultuous days of World War II when British army units, stationed beyond the borders of Colombo, faced the wrath of Japanese airstrikes. In the ensuing chaos, these two souls, like many others, succumbed to the ravages of war

Negombo

Negombo, a charming coastal town steeped in history, unfolds around its bustling fishing village. Located a mere 38 km north of the capital city, Colombo, and a scant 7 km from the international airport, Negombo serves as an idyllic gateway for travelers venturing into the heart of Sri Lanka

Nestled along the picturesque bay, Negombo's bustling thoroughfare, Luis Place, teems with life, flanked by a medley of hotels, resorts, and eateries. As the sun sets, the streets come alive with the vibrant energy of locals and tourists alike, beckoning wanderers to explore its culinary delights and sample the local brews in quaint pubs

The bustling heart of Negombo beats strongest at its vibrant fish market, nestled along the sandy shores on the town's periphery. From the crack of dawn until midday, the market comes alive with the hustle and bustle of fishermen returning from their nocturnal quests, bearing the fruits of the sea. Rows upon rows of small stalls, adorned with an array of marine treasures, greet eager patrons. Here, amidst the salty breeze, one can behold a mesmerizing spectacle – from mighty sharks dwarfing human dimensions to humble sardines and delicate seafood delicacies. Among the throng of vendors, weathered yet spirited elderly women, their faces etched with stories of the sea, skillfully wield machete-like knives to tailor fish to the exacting demands of their clientele

Above, seagulls glide on the currents, their sharp eyes keen on snatching morsels from the bustling scene below, while stray cats and dogs play their part in the market's natural order, purging the remnants of fish scraps. Though the air is redolent with the briny scent of the ocean, one soon acclimates to its embrace. Yet, amidst this lively scene, the sight of barefoot merchants and buyers wading through fish, blood, and water remains a jarring reminder of the raw essence of life by the sea

Venturing beyond the market's perimeter, one witnesses the age-old ritual of fish preservation, a testament to the ingenuity of the locals in harnessing nature's bounty. Fish are strung along, leftovers discarded for eager canine companions, and then split and submerged in saltwater barrels for a 24-hour soak. Emerging from their saline baths, the fish are laid out to bask in the sun's warm embrace, spread out on vast cloth sheets akin to the expanse of several buses, where they will undergo the transformative process of drying, granting them a shelf life of up to 3-4 months

In the harbor, the unique silhouette of Shell Boats, with their towering sails, paints a picturesque scene, while the canal-like elevations, remnants of Dutch colonialism, offer a glimpse into Negombo's storied past

Dubbed "Little Rome" for its abundance of Christian churches, Negombo is a tapestry of faiths, with Buddhist and Hindu temples adorning its bustling streets. Amidst the kaleidoscope of colors and intricate sculptures, the Hindu temples stand as vibrant testaments to the island's rich cultural heritage

There's also a vibrant Indian temple, its golden hue beckoning us inside. As fate would have it, we arrived just in time for one of their captivating rituals. A female cantor stood before the Hindu deity, her melodious voice weaving verses in Swahili, each line echoed by the gathered crowd like a harmonious chorus. The statue was then paraded through the temple, pausing at intervals for the lighting of candles and the wafting of incense, the air alive with the fragrance of aromatic sticks

The terrain upon which Negombo stands proves ideal for brick kilns, evident as we journey beyond the city's limits, where brick-making factories dot the landscape. Alongside the roads, makeshift stalls peddle bricks and terracotta pots crafted in small, family-run workshops, a testament to the local craftsmanship

Kosgoda Turtle Hatchery

Kosgoda Turtle Hatchery offers a poignant glimpse into the struggle for survival of these magnificent creatures. Twice yearly, female turtles grace the shores, burying their precious cargo of around 250 eggs before returning to the depths of the ocean. After 48 days of incubation, the hatchlings embark on their perilous journey to the sea, with only a fraction surviving the gauntlet of predators. To bolster their chances, conservation farms dot the southern coast, offering sanctuary to these endangered species

At the Kosgoda Turtle Hatchery, the owner shares their noble mission, recounting how they rescue turtle eggs from fishermen and rebury them in designated areas akin to sanctuaries, carefully marked with expected hatching dates and egg quantities, ensuring these delicate creatures stand a fighting chance against the odds

Upon hatching, the delicate hatchlings are carefully moved to specialized pools, where they receive essential nutrients and medical care

We marveled at pools teeming with turtles at various stages of development – from newborns just emerging from their shells to those taking their first tentative swims at four days old. Tonight, under the watchful eyes of farm workers and volunteers, these brave little ones will embark on their journey into the vast ocean, shielded from predators by vigilant guardians. While their fate beyond the farm's confines remains uncertain, the odds of survival far surpass the dismal 2% faced by their counterparts in the wild

In other pools, we observed larger turtles undergoing treatment for injuries sustained in encounters with fishermen's nets. Once rehabilitated, these resilient creatures will be released back into their natural habitat. However, one inhabitant stands apart – a rare albino turtle, a one-in-a-million marvel. Vulnerable to attacks from other marine life, this unique turtle finds sanctuary within the farm's protective walls

A visit to a turtle farm offers an enchanting and enlightening adventure, especially for inquisitive young minds eager to discover the wonders of the natural world

Hikkaduwa

 A picturesque beach town located north of Galle, beckons visitors with its sandy shores ideal for surfing and snorkeling, drawing tourists from across the globe, including Israel. One of its main attractions is the opportunity to swim alongside majestic sea turtles in the tranquil waters

The devastating impact of the 2004 tsunami still lingers in Hikkaduwa, evident in the somber memorials scattered throughout the town

Amidst the chaos of the tsunami, a train carrying approximately 1,500 passengers, including a group of Japanese tourists, was engulfed by the raging waves, derailing its carriages and leaving only one survivor. Today, coconut trees mark the height reached by the tsunami waters, serving as poignant reminders of the tragedy. In honor of the victims, the Japanese government erected a towering Buddha statue, clad in a sari and towering six stories high, at the site where the train met its fate. A serene water pond surrounds the statue, symbolizing the tsunami's destructive force. A graceful bridge links the monument to the nearby street

Nestled beside the pond is the "Hikkaduwa Community Tsunami Education Center & Museum," housed in a modest family home where all occupants tragically perished in the disaster. Inside, poignant photographs captured in the aftermath of the tsunami depict overturned train carriages and scenes of devastation, accompanied by heartfelt testimonials penned in Sinhalese

In the aftermath of the tsunami, numerous unidentified victims were laid to rest in mass graves, including one located near the Buddha memorial. Here, a solemn tombstone honors those whose identities remain unknown

As you traverse the main road, glimpses of resilience mingle with reminders of loss. Some residential buildings stand tall after undergoing post-tsunami renovations, while others lie abandoned, their walls stained with mud and debris, poignant reminders of families lost in the catastrophe. With no heirs to claim them and a lingering sense of tragedy, these houses remain untouched, haunted by the specter of the tsunami's wrath

Note: The tourist sites recommended here are arranged according to their importance in my opinion, not according to a logical itinerary. I suggest you choose the sites that interest you, mark them on a map, and then decide on the route. It's worth knowing that the Sri Lankan tourism company ANDREW can provide a driver-guide for each route, as well as accommodations in hotels along the route, at prices even cheaper than Booking.com

The author was a guest of Arkia and Andrew's tourism company in Colombo