While many Israelis and Jews often frequent the scenic Black Forest, only a few are aware of the hidden Jewish heritage sites nestled in the nearby Alsace region. That's why I wholeheartedly encourage all my friends to allocate a day or two of their summer vacations to exploring Alsace

Traversing the wine route in France, Alsace captivates visitors with its stunning beauty—its vast expanse draped in vineyards, adorned with quaint villages, and picturesque towns. Spanning approximately 100 kilometers from Strasbourg to Mulhouse, this enchanting route not only boasts vineyards, charming bridges, and inviting cafes but also holds within its folds a treasure trove of Jewish heritage sites

Although most parts of Alsace no longer harbor Jewish communities, remnants of their legacy endure. From the Middle Ages until the French Revolution, laws barred Jews from residing within city limits overnight. Consequently, many Jews who worked in Strasbourg made their homes in surrounding villages. This led to the formation of thriving Jewish communities across Alsace. "More than 200 Jewish sites grace the Alsace region," attests Katrina Lehman, the region's tourism director. Dr. Michelle Rota, a Jerusalem dentist born in Alsace, meticulously cataloged 176 synagogues, Mikvehs, Jewish schools, and 32 Jewish cemeteries across the region

Remarkably, Alsace stands as the only place outside Israel with such an extensive array of Jewish sites. Having had the privilege of visiting most of these sites, I propose a curated "tasting" of some highlights for a day trip or a leisurely two-day exploration in Alsace

Bouxwiller

Embark on our journey of Alsace's Jewish heritage at the Jewish Museum in Bouxwiller, just a short half-hour drive from Strasbourg. Founded by Gilbert Weil, a native of the village who later relocated to Paris and now resides in Jerusalem with his descendants, the museum occupies a building that once served as a synagogue. When the synagogue was abandoned, the "Le Consistoire" (The highest French Jewish organization) wanted to sell it to a local supermarket owner, who planned to demolish it for a parking lot. Gilbert and his friends enlisted to save the building, and set up a museum of Alsace Jewry instead

Designed by Gilbert, an esteemed architecture professor, the museum's initial exhibits chronicle the era of the Crusades, blood libels, and the persecution endured by Jews

An intriguing artifact on display is a Shofar trumpet, historically used to signal Jews to leave the city at dusk—a time when mothers would caution their children to eat, lest they be taken away by departing Jews

Delving deeper, the museum showcases "The Sanhedrin," established by Napoleon, where 71 rabbis served as the Jewish Supreme Court, akin to ancient times. Notably, Rabbi Joseph David Zinzheim of Alsace presided as its head before assuming the position of Chief Rabbi of Paris

The exhibition continues with displays of a street vendor's wagon, emblematic of Jewish vendors traversing villages to sell wares, along with Sabbath clothing and a Jewish soldier's uniform. Many Jews volunteered in the French army as a gesture of gratitude for the equal rights granted during the Emancipation period

The museum also pays homage to Jewish life cycles, featuring events like Bar Mitzvahs, weddings, circumcisions, and the unique "Alikrash" ceremony, where infants' cribs were swayed—a tradition termed "Crash" in French, signifying a gentle rocking motion

Transitioning into the modern era, the museum proudly highlights illustrious local Jews, including William Weiler, producer of the iconic Hollywood movie "Ben Hur," and the birthplace of the Marx Brothers comedians in Mertzweiler, Alsace. Additionally, Jewish French Prime Minister Leon Blum hails from Istofen in Alsace

What I missed in the museum were any cues of important rabbis who lived in Alsace. Before the French Revolution, 3 important Yeshivas were functioning in Alsace, in the villages of Tabusquiller, Shingolar, and Etand

Some of the greatest rabbis lived and worked here. Among them was Rabbi Leizer Katznelbogen, author of the "Sha'ar Naphtali" on "Choshen Mishpat". He was the son-in-law of Rabbi Shmuel Helman, and both are buried in the town of Ageno. There also lived Rabbi Moshe Bloch, the author of "Yishmach Moshe" on matches Chulin, who is known as the senior disciple of the "Kli Yakar". In the mid-18th century, Rabbi Shmuel Halberstadt, a disciple of Rabbi Yonatan Eiveshitz, served as the rabbi of the town of Ageno. How could those spiritual giants be ignored?          i

While the museum offers a captivating insight into Alsace's Jewish heritage and serves as a conduit for passing on this legacy to future generations, it lacks explanatory materials in Hebrew or English

Museum Address: 62 Rue Grand

To arrange a visit, call Raymond Levy on +33 6 18 53 42 84

Following the museum visit, a stroll through the picturesque village of Bouxwiller reveals beautifully restored ancient houses. A house with a Hebrew-inscribed lintel leading to its basement believed to be the village's Mikveh, stands as a testament to its Jewish past, albeit inaccessible to visitors due to the current landlord's restrictions

Near the village center lies a neighborhood referred to by locals as "Medina," meaning "state" in Hebrew—a former Jewish quarter. Renaissance houses in this area bear inscriptions of construction dates like 1571 or 1598, while remnants of Mezuzah slots adorn some ancient buildings

Till about a century ago, most of the shops we see on the main streets of the village belonged to Jews. Today there are no Jews in the village. But the closest thing to Judaism I found here was an old gentile butcher, who speaks fluent Yiddish. I asked him how he knew our language? He said that until the Holocaust, most of the local cattle and meat traders were Jewish. The local gentile butcher learned to speak Yiddish, to better communicate with Jewish suppliers, and to gain another discount. That is why his father and grandfather learned Yiddish, and also required him to learn the language. When Jewish tourists arrive in Bouxwiller, he's glad to use the opportunity to chat with us in our language

Following the Alsace tour I conducted, I divided the synagogues in Alsace into three categories:               i

Category A – Synagogues Preserving Jewish Sanctity, even if there are no prayers

Category B– Synagogues sold to the authorities, who converted them to public buildings

Category C– Synagogues sold to private individuals, who completely desecrated them, making them residential or warehouses and private businesses. Most of the synagogues in Alsace now belong to this group

I suggest to choose from the list below three sites of each category, and to plan a personal itinerary accordingly

Category A

Synagogues reserved Jewish

  Ingwiller

The most beautiful synagogue is in Ingweiler. The synagogue stands as a testament to architectural splendor and historical significance. Initially constructed in 1800 on the remnants of the Lichtenberg Citadel dating back to 1422, it once served a community of 1,200 residents, half of whom were Jewish

Unfortunately, during World War II, the synagogue suffered bombardment, resulting in the destruction of its contents and stained glass. Regrettably, precious chandeliers were looted by neighbors. Though the original Holy Ark, crafted from black marble, lay in ruins, fragments of its marble pillars are displayed at the entrance. Post-war renovations reconstructed the Holy Ark in wood, housing three Torah scrolls. However, regular prayers ceased in 1960, and today, Torah readings are infrequent even on Saturdays

To arrange a visit: Michelle Levy 06-11-68-55-85 or email:

michel.levy@orange.fr

 

Colmar

 Nestled amidst picturesque waterways reminiscent of Venice, Colmar remains a medieval gem set against the backdrop of vineyards and the Black Forest. In most windows we can see planters with colored geranium flowers

In the square at the city entrance stands a model of the Statue of Liberty, which we know from New York. The Statue of Liberty was created by August Bartoldi, a resident of Colmar, and his model is proudly displayed here in the city. The Bertoldi Museum also has a room with a collection of Jewish exhibits

Often overlooked by visitors, the city of 65,000 residents harbors a Jewish population of around 2,000

The city currently has 65,000 residents, and about 2,000 of them are members of the Jewish community. At the end of the main pedestrian street stands a magnificent synagogue built in the 18th century, when Jews were allowed to return to the city

A magnificent 18th-century synagogue stands prominently at the end of the main pedestrian street. A small bell tower was built on its roof, like as in churches. Utilized as a German weapons warehouse during World War II, the building underwent extensive post-war restoration. Visits to this beautiful synagogue require prior arrangement with the Jewish community

Adjacent to the synagogue lies "Jewish Street," home to an active synagogue holding three Minyans a day, a Jewish museum, and a kosher supermarket. (Incidentally, the community building courtyard has free parking, which is rare in Colmar).     i

Address: Rue de la Cigogne. Tel: +33 3 89 23 77 06

In the Dalhoff neighborhood lies the Jewish Pit (Judenloch), a poignant reminder of tragic history—a mass grave for Colmar's Jews burnt alive in 1348 due to a blood libel. Additionally, the area pays tribute to Rebbecen Mrs. Gandala, daughter of Rabbi Avraham Groiger, the wife of the local Rabbi Shmuel Av Beit Din of Alsace, renowned for transcribing the entire Talmud except Masechet Nida, earning acclaim for her impeccable manuscript handwriting

In 1706, Rebbecen Mrs. Gandala, daughter of Rabbi Avraham Groiger, the wife of the local Rabbi Shmuel Av Beit Din of Alsace, copied all of the Talmud (without the Rashi and Tosfot), except for Masechet Nida. The rabbis paid tribute to this copy, and noted her beautiful manuscript handwriting

Obernai

Nestled in picturesque surroundings, Obernai boasts a rich historical legacy dating back to the seventh century, once home to the Duke of Alsace. The town's 12th-century walls serve as a backdrop to well-preserved medieval houses, lending the city its unique charm. Historically, Obernai thrived as a commercial hub, attracting a significant Jewish population. However, today, only around 40 Jews remain part of the local Jewish community

The Great Synagogue, constructed in 1876 and renovated in 1948, stands adjacent to the town's walls. While the synagogue hosts bar mitzvahs, weddings, and occasional Minyan prayers during Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur, and Passover, it primarily functions as a concert hall, lecture space, and tourist attraction throughout the year. Notably, its layout features a unique orientation, with the cantor's pillar and Torah reading table facing the audience rather than the Holy Ark

As visitors exit the synagogue, they encounter the municipal building and an ancient tower nearby. The adjacent "Jewish Street" from the 14th century holds remnants of Jewish life, evident in engraved Hebrew inscriptions on the lintels of certain houses. Notably, an ancient 17th-century synagogue now serves as a private garage, bearing Hebrew evidence of its original purpose

Today, no Jews live there, but there are shreds of evidence of Jewish life. On stone lintels at the entrance to some houses we can see engraved inscriptions in Hebrew, such as "Shlomo Baruch Elazar Chatan".       I

On the outskirts of the Jewish Quarter was an ancient 17th-century synagogue, now used as a private garage. On its entrance and around, there is evidence in Hebrew of a synagogue

Thann

The village of Thann has harbored an active Jewish community since 1309. The first synagogue, established in 1817 on former prison grounds purchased by Jews Felix Racer and Abraham Blum, underwent demolition in 1859 to make way for a larger, magnificent neo-Byzantine structure inaugurated in 1862

Despite facing damage and subsequent renovations during WWI and WWII, the synagogue retains its exquisite beauty both inside and out. This is how it looked in 1917 after the war

Adjacent to the synagogue lies the former residence of the village's rabbi, alongside a Jewish school ("Hayder") situated on the synagogue's first floor. This photo was taken by Claude Truong-Ngocin the Chol-Hamoed of Sukkot, and in the front yard you can see a large sukkah

The inside is beautiful no less than the outside. Noteworthy among the synagogue's features is an awe-inspiring Torah Ark

And the Torah Ark is an amazing piece of art

Throughout its history, Thann's Jewish community flourished under the leadership of Chief Rabbis like Rabbi Salomon Mock, who established regional schools for the entire Alsace region. He was followed by Rabbi Yosef Vermer, followed by Rabbi Binyamin Mayer

Before the Holocaust, 160 Jews were living here, and only 35 survivors returned to the village after the Holocaust. In 1983, the last Chupa was held here by local rabbi Claude Yaakov Fahima

Four years ago, it was discovered that the synagogue's foundations were severely damaged by water penetration. The municipality has set up a fundraiser to save the synagogue

Above the front door is written in Hebrew "Ended in the year 1862".     i

The synagogue faced severe foundation damage due to water penetration, prompting a fundraising initiative by the municipality to preserve this historic site

Above the synagogue's entrance, inscriptions in Hebrew mark its inception in 1862, while higher up, a Hebrew verse "How full of awe is this place" (Genesis 28/17)                I

Memorial plaques within the hall commemorate individuals like Benjamin Schick, president of the Jewish community, and local Jewish soldiers who perished in World War I

       

In the entrance hall we see a memorial plaque in memory of Benjamin Schick, who was president of the Jewish community from 1924 to 1932, and across there is a memorial plate for local Jewish soldiers who died in World War 1

Pfaffenhoffen

The unassuming "Hidden Synagogue" in Pfaffenhoffen underwent renovation, serving as a Jewish community center since its construction in 1791 until the Holocaust. Its inconspicuous external appearance intentionally mimics nearby residential houses, reflecting the local Jewish community's desire to blend in. Positioned between the Catholic and Lutheran Churches, its discreet location adds to its concealed identity

The first floor accommodates a Talmud Torah school class, a Mikveh with a dressing room for women, a spacious kitchen, a hall for Kiddush, and conferences, and even a Matzah bakery. Additionally, there's a "hospitality" room for visiting Jews, notable for its barred windows ensuring decorum

Ascending to the second floor reveals the synagogue, compact yet accommodating for a modest community of approximately two hundred Jews. The stone-built Holy Ark, adorned in blue paint and bearing the date "1791," houses five taller-than-usual Torah scrolls behind a glass panel. Above the Ark, a round colored glass window, typical of many Alsace synagogues, marks the transition to Sabbath as dusk obscures its colors

Adorning the synagogue's walls are Torah Mantel coats and Ark curtains, preserving the space's sanctity. During the Holocaust, a Protestant priest safeguarded Torah scrolls and religious articles, later returning them to the returning Jewish community members, including the rabbi

When the Jews of the village were transferred to the Holocaust, the Protestant priest entered the synagogue. He collected the Torah scrolls and religious articles to save them from the Nazis. After the Holocaust, when some of the Jews began to return, including the rabbi, the priest returned all religious items to the Jews. The Torah scrolls we see in the Holy Ark were part of this private rescue operation

The synagogue is in an alley that goes from the artist's street to the Protestant church. The keys are in the reception office of the Modern Art Museum, which is in the red building on the street corner. To schedule a visit inside the synagogue we'd call 03-8807-8005

Notably, the museum's second floor hosts a Jewish corner displaying Ketubahs, "Mizrach" signs, menorahs, a Challa plaque, and a circumcision map

Selestat

Celebrating the oldest Jewish community in Alsace, Selestat traces its Jewish presence back to the fifth century. Evidence from tenth-century literature and tombstones attests to the enduring Jewish legacy in the town. However, following the devastation of the Black Death in 1349, where most Jews perished or were deported, Selestat witnessed a resurgence of Jewish settlement during the Prussian occupation

In 1870, a grand synagogue was erected, only to fall victim to Nazi destruction. Its reconstruction in 1950 saw diminished regular use, with worship primarily held on Saturdays and holidays

Reichshffen

Tucked away in an inner courtyard at the beginning of Jewish Street lies the synagogue of Reichshffen, built in 1852 by a non-Jewish architect. Striking in its resemblance to a church, the architect incorporated an Andalusian touch to differentiate it, creating what locals humorously dubbed a "Christian synagogue with Muslim windows" due to distinctive arches on its exterior windows

The entrance facing the road bears the inscription "a woman that feareth the LORD, she shall be praised" (Proverbs 31:30), leading to the women's section, while the main entrance on the right side remains discreet, adorned with the inscription "This is the gate to G-D which the righteous will come thru." The women's porch, resting on stone arches within a thick wall, preserves the sanctity of the synagogue space

On the eastern wall, flanking the Holy Ark, tablets hold a special prayer for the peace of rulers, inscribed in both Hebrew and French

It is written in Hebrew and French:      i

G-d, king of the world, raising the humiliating to see heaven and earth

which has the power and valor to raise and strengthen for all

Look from your sacred residence on our country La Republica Francais

 and bless our people of Francais

Hide it in the shade of your wings, and spread above us your peaceful Sukka

AMEN

Your help will be bestowed upon we, your kindness will always prevail

AMEN

In our country the peace will flourish

 and the inhabitants of France forever be safe

AMEN

Remarkably, there is an interesting story behind this sign. The sign was written and hung in August 1852, during the French Republic, which granted equal rights to Jews. A few months later Napoleon Bonaparte came to power and established the French Empire. Despite the change of government, the sign praising the previous government remained in place. In 1870, the Germans conquered Alsace, and, surprisingly, the sign in praise of the French Republic was not removed. The Jews continued to pray for the peace of the former government that favored them. These signs even survived the Holocaust when the Nazis took over the area

The synagogue suffered during the Nazi period. The German commander ordered his soldiers to burn the synagogue. They poured two gasoline jerks on the wall outside the Holy Ark, set fire, and went away. They did not see the fire soon fading. To this day there are soot signs of that fire on the outer wall. Immediately after the Germans went away and the fire went out, Gentile neighbors came into the synagogue and looted everything. But that Republic's sign was untouched

After the Holocaust, some Jews returned to the village and used to pray in this synagogue. But the older Jews died, and the young went the other ways, so prayer ceased to be served here. Only one Jew remains in the village. It is Raymond Levy who holds the synagogue keys and welcomes guests. The Holy Ark has 3 Torah scrolls, and the last time they opened and read the Torah was in 1967. Since then the Holy Ark has not been opened. Despite this, Raymond cleans the dust every week and sweeps the floor with dedication and love

He says he is looking for funding to renovate the leaking roof. None of the funding sources are willing to help him. The local authorities do not want to finance, hoping he will give up and abandon, so they will take over the building. The "Le Consistoire" is evading because they want to sell the property to enrich their coffers. Raymond Levi's stubborn presence bothers them. This is a typical story of many of the remaining synagogues in Alsace. One or two dear Jews preserve them with devotion, while Jewish institutions and local councils stare at them for real estate purposes

Benfeld

The synagogue in Benfeld boasts original, untouched construction due to its preservation during the Nazi period, setting it apart from other reconstructed synagogues in Alsace. Though further details aren't provided, its unaltered state stands as a rarity among Alsace's synagogues

I have seen many other such synagogues in Alsace, but I do not elaborate on it

Category B

Synagogues became public buildings

  Hochfelden

Many synagogues throughout Alsace have been sold to municipalities, which have transformed the synagogue building into a youth club, library, or museum, unrelated to Judaism

The synagogue's structure was sold in 1999 to a local history association. They use the building to display World War I exhibits, and heroes and personalities born in this village and neighboring villages. In it there is also one glass cabinet with Jewish heritage items

Above the front door we can see that there once was a stone embossed on it that was engraved in Hebrew "This is the gate to G-D which the righteous will come thru". The text was devastated, but it can still be read. I asked the locals what happened to it. They explained that this was done by the Germans who entered the village, and there is another rumor that the locals did it themselves so that the Germans would not know that the building was a Jewish synagogue

In front of the synagogue stands a building with green shutters. The first floor served as a Jewish school, and on the second floor was the cantor resident. In the basement of this house there is a Mikveh

It is worth noting that the volunteers who run the association that purchased the synagogue treat Jewishness with respect

Despite these transformations, the association responsible for the synagogue's upkeep treats the Jewish heritage with respect, albeit with a reimagined purpose detached from its original intent

Mommenheim

Built in 1775, Mommenheim's synagogue underwent renovation in 1904, but fell victim to Nazi destruction. It was later sold to the municipality, and transformed into a town library and sports hall, shedding its former religious function for a community-oriented one

Bergheim

Dating back to the 14th century, the original synagogue was destroyed in a city-wide fire. In 1863, a new synagogue replaced it, continuing until it was sold to the municipality in 1991. At the top of the roof are two stone tablets. While still standing, the synagogue no longer hosts prayers and instead is utilized for cultural events

Sarre-Union

Constructed in 1839, Sarre-Union's synagogue was an active place of worship until the Jewish community dwindled, prompting the municipality's purchase. The contents were sent to an Israeli synagogue, a heartfelt initiative by a Sarre-Union native, illustrating a departure from the area's Jewish heritage

All the contents of the synagogue were packed and delivered to Israel. The chandeliers, memorial plaques, lamps, curtains, and some of the furniture arrived in the "Ha-Tzur and Ha-Zohar" synagogue in Tzur Hadassah, near Beitar Elite in the Jerusalem mountains

This is a beautiful initiative of a Sarre-Union-born Jew who immigrated to Israel and settled in Tzur Hadassah. Unfortunately, in other villages the contents of other similar synagogues are neglected and even thrown in the garbage. I've seen Holy Arks used to store car repair tools. I saw signs of Holy Ark cupboards being taken out of place, and the new owners used them to heat fire in their homes. In other places, they just threw the racks into the street and trash. Creepy! I would like to approach the Le Consistoire: Please use some of the money you receive for selling synagogues, to dismantle and renovate old unused Holy Arks and other synagogue furniture, and send them to Israel. The late Jewish communities and Gabayim would love to know that their Holy Ark is still in use in the Holy Land, and not thrown in the trash

Category C

Synagogues sold to private individuals

Rosheim

If the name of this place sounds familiar to us, it is thanks to Rabbi Yosselman of Rosheim, author of "Derech Hekdesh" and "Sefer Ha-Mikneh" books. He was the Jewish lobbyist in the King Maximilian's palace in the 15th century. In the Middle Ages Rosheim was a small village, where quite a few important rabbis all over Ashkenaz lived. Today there are 5000 inhabitants, and none of them are Jewish. The closest to Judaism is my tour guide, the ex-mayor's wife, who proudly recounts that her mother was "Shabes Goy" in a local wealthy Jewish family in her youth. She says the words "Shabes Goy" in Yiddish with an originally accent of Bnei Brak's Hasidim

This village had an impressive synagogue. My guide took me to see it only from the outside. Above the entrance door is written that the house was built in 1884, and renovated in 1959. Recently, the building was sold by the "Le Consistoire" to a private person. It's one of the synagogues that was converted into a private home, so we can't go in. That's what the tour guide told me. I climbed into the window to peek inside, and saw a woman working on a computer. The guide asked her if she would let us in any way. I was invited in, and this is what I saw:              i

The synagogue's big hall is divided into two, and its space is two stories high. The first floor now houses her architectural office. There is no evidence of the holiness of the synagogue

I asked to go up the stairs to the women's section. On the second floor the new owners built their apartment. The other half of the synagogue was sold to another family who had not yet completed the renovations and adjusted the building to his quarters

This is what the front section looks like in the preparation stages for construction

The view depressed me and evoked deep thoughts about the future of Judaism in small communities in the Diaspora. My heart sank. Apparently the landlord noticed my sadness and asked why my face fell. I explained to him about the sacred of synagogues in Judaism, and my heartache at the sight of his home and office

He tried to reassure me, and said they remembered it was a holy place for Jews and considered it. In the renovation process, he was obliged not to damage or move anything connected to the floor. This includes the Holy Ark and the special windows. The Torah reading stage was demolished anyway, because it disturbed him in the middle of the house. But the Holy Ark stayed untouched. In addition, he was banned from building with concrete. All the construction of the new inside walls must be made only of iron with plasterboard or plywood boards. "This is so that if Jews will ever return to our village, the house situation will be reversible and my house can return to be utilized as a synagogue," says the landlord

Who demanded it?" I ask him. "The Jewish authorities?"            i

No" he replies, "it was a demand of the municipality. The Jews in the  Consistoire didn't care about the heritage building at all. Just the money".  i

Address: 3 Rue Gal de Brauer

Down the street is the high school, and across of it is the Municipal Library, named after Rabbi Yosselman of Rosheim. On the side is a sign explaining his work and his important status in French and Jewish politics. He lived in this village, and died in 1554

The most important Jewish family in Rosheim 250 years ago was the Netter family. The street on which most Jews lived is named after the Netter family. Their house exists to this day. On the exterior wall there is a stone sign that says in Hebrew and French: "In memory of the Itzik Netter family and their sons 1628-1772, and in memory of Lehman Netter 1709-1792, who were heads of the Jewish community in Alsace until the French Revolution".            i

All the houses in this area were Jewish homes. While strolling around the street we'd try to imagine the Jews in this place

The area, rich in Jewish history, showcases reminders of its past through street names and memorial plaques, while the synagogues' transitions reflect a complex interplay between heritage preservation, private ownership, and municipal demands

Ribeauviller

The top horror of the desecration of synagogues I saw in Alsace was in the village of Ribeauviller. The Jewish community in the village existed from 1711 to 1922. The chief rabbi of Alsace, Rabbi Meir Weil, lived in this village

Once home to a vibrant Jewish community, the synagogue built in 1830, was transformed into a movie theater after being sold to a local dealer, which made it a movie theater. Cinema! no less!!!         I

 

The look on the outside has shocked me. In front of my eyes I saw an illustration of a verse from the Book of Lamentations (2/7): "The Lord hath cast off His altar, He hath abhorred His sanctuary, He hath given up into the hand of the enemy the walls of her palaces"      i

This is what the back of the former synagogue looks like:         i

I wanted to go in to see if there were any remains left of the Holy Ark and the stage, but the place was closed and I couldn't find its new owners. I left with a gloomy grief

Obernai

An old 17th-century house has signs of a synagogue, a very short distance from the active synagogue. There is a Hebrew stone sign on the building, engraved with the "Year of 1696". On the stone lintel there is a dich indicating that there was once a large Mezuzah

The outside building is covered with red painted plaster, but when we walk in we become black in our eyes. In the corner of the courtyard is a sculptured stone of Cohen's hands and above it is the sign "The Samson Cohen's room." The interior of the synagogue serves nowadays as a garage for cars and a warehouse. There was no trace of the Holy Ark left on the eastern wall

The address: 43 General de Guerro

Habsheim

Sold in 1924, the synagogue is now used as a garage for repairing camping trailers. The owner retains what remains of the Holy Ark and Eliyahu's chair, used in Brit Mila ceremonies, preserving fragments of its Jewish heritage

Epfig

Constructed in 1826, the windows still have Hebrew inscriptions. This synagogue now serves as a warehouse for agricultural equipment, a stark contrast to its original purpose

Today used as a warehouse for agricultural equipment

 

Neuwiller Les Saverne

Externally resembling a synagogue, inside, it operates as a carpentry workshop, highlighting the incongruity between its current use and its past significance

 

Bergheim

The village of Bergheim was one of the oldest Jewish communities in Alsace. There is evidence of a community dating back thousands of years. In 1349, all the village's Jews were murdered in blood libel. In the 19th century, Jews began to return to the village, and in 1863 they built this large and beautiful synagogue. The Great Alsace "Beyt Din" Jewish court also operated in this synagogue. In 1991, the building was sold to a local dealer, and is now used as a warehouse for agricultural equipment

 Hegenheim

Built in 1815, this synagogue, abandoned due to dwindling attendance, now houses a carpentry operation

Previous generations had a vibrant Jewish life throughout the Alsace region. In our generation we can only see evidence and remnants of this Jewish abundance. But the next generation will probably no longer be able to see even these remains. Synagogues in many villages have become warehouses restaurants or movie theaters, and it is difficult to recognize from the outside that it was a holy Jewish place. Probably the same will happen in the coming decades with some of the sites I have described here. So let's take this opportunity to see these heritage places, visit them, and document them for generations to come

The gravity of the situation in Alsace emphasizes the importance of documenting and visiting these sites while they retain traces of their Jewish heritage. Preserving this history ensures that future generations can connect with and learn from this legacy, despite the desecration these places have faced

As mentioned, these are just a few samples from the 176 synagogues left in the Alsace region. When we're planning a trip there, we'd mark on a map which synagogue described here we would like to see, and in what order of travel between the villages. The distance from end to end is just about an hour and a half drive. We can easily plan a route where the distances between one Jewish site and another will be only about fifteen minutes or less

The French Ministry of Tourism assists Jewish travelers and sends us guides of Jewish sites upon request. To book a guided tour tailored to our needs, call: 80 + 33 3 88 15 45

Photos: © Claude Truong-Ngoc, Wikimedia Commons, Michelle Rotta and Jacob Maor

The writer was a guest of France's Tourist Office in Israel