Today, on the 5th of Iyar, we celebrate Israel’s Independence Day. We marked this national holiday with joy and pride. In our time, the State of Israel is a thriving, indisputable reality, but for previous generations it was only a dream, a distant vision.
The foundations of that dream were laid 128 years ago, in the city of Basel, Switzerland. On the first day of Elul in 1897, the First Zionist Congress convened and adopted the historic "Basel Program," which became the blueprint for the establishment of a Jewish state. This congress was known as the “Parliament of the Jews,” and its charismatic leader, Theodor Herzl, was dubbed “The King of the Jews.” Rabbi Kook even compared him to the Messiah, son of Joseph.
During the congress, Herzl stayed at the legendary Hotel Les Trois Rois, located on the banks of the Rhine River. He was lodged in Room 117, immortalized in the famous photograph of Herzl leaning thoughtfully over the balcony railing.
Years ago, I had the extraordinary privilege of staying in that very room at Les Trois Rois, an experience that remains deeply etched in my memory. I was attending a professional conference in Zurich, which happened to coincide with Israel’s Independence Day. I felt a powerful urge to mark the occasion in a meaningful way, even while abroad. What better place to honor the birth of our nation than in the very room where Herzl dreamed it into being?
On impulse, I called the hotel in Basel and inquired whether Room 117 was available that night. When they confirmed it was, I didn’t hesitate. Despite already having a hotel room reserved in Zurich for the entire week, I booked Room 117 immediately.
On the Evening of Independence Day, I Slept in Herzl’s Room
On the evening of Independence Day, I arrived at the Hotel Les Trois Rois, and from the moment I stood at its gates, I felt a sense of reverence and awe. Gratitude filled my heart, and the splendor of the place seemed to glow with historical spirit. This was no ordinary hotel. It had once hosted Napoleon, Queen Elizabeth, Pablo Picasso, and other figures of great renown. Suddenly, the meaning of its name, Les Trois Rois (“The Three Kings”), became clear to me. This was not merely a place to sleep, but a stage where history had unfolded. I understood why Herzl was brought here. One does not simply stay in such a place; one is transported by it.
I entered Room 117, Herzl’s room, and my heart began to race. The furnishings, carved from dark, polished wood, exuded elegance and craftsmanship. Walnut-paneled walls, velvet curtains in warm champagne tones, and soft table lamps created an atmosphere both regal and inviting. A wide window opened onto a private balcony overlooking the serene flow of the Rhine. Iron chairs and a fresh bouquet of flowers awaited outside, as if still expecting Herzl to return. This was not just a hotel room. It was a sanctuary of reflection and inspiration.
On the wall facing the river hangs a commemorative plaque honoring Herzl. Nearby stands a grand, solid table with carved legs and a gleaming oak surface. It was here, on this very table, that Herzl penned the sentence etched into the soul of every Jew: “In Basel I founded the State of the Jews…”
To be precise, his full words were: “If I were to say at the Basel Congress, in one voice, beware not to say it aloud, it would be this: In Basel I founded the State of the Jews. If I were to say it today, I would be met with universal laughter. Perhaps in five years, and certainly in fifty, everyone will acknowledge it.”
And indeed, perhaps a prophetic spirit rested upon him. For exactly fifty years later, in 1947, the United Nations voted to establish the State of Israel.
Now, I stand in his room. I touch the same walls, breath the same air, looked out the same window. And my heart would not rest. The emotion was overwhelming. My pulse pounded. I was speechless. No words could capture the force of what I felt in that moment.
A Prayer in Herzl’s Footsteps
During the evening prayer for Independence Day, we add psalms of thanksgiving. As I recite the verses, “The Lord reigns, let the earth rejoice… His lightning lights up the world,” I picture colorful fireworks bursting above the skies of Basel, illuminating the city that once hosted the birth of a dream.
I lie down on Herzl’s wide bed. The mattress is firm and solid, but my soul remains restless. Waves of emotion wash over me, refusing to quiet. I cannot sleep.
At morning, the air is cool, crisp, and still. Stepping onto the stone balcony outside the room, I feel myself transported beyond time. It was right here that Herzl once stood, gazing into the distance when he was photographed against the backdrop of the old Mittlere Brücke, a wrought-iron bridge, that today has been replaced by a broad, modern concrete span.
Wrapped in my tallit and tefillin, I stand in the very spot where Herzl once stood. During the Hallel prayer, I whisper the verse, “And the earth He gave to the children of men,” and the words take on a deeper, almost prophetic meaning. Here I feel the "the earth" us Eretz Israel. As I sing, “The mountains skipped like rams,” I imagine the Jura Mountains and the distant French Alps dancing with joy. “The hills like lambs”– and to my right, the hill crowned by the Münster Cathedral seems to echo Herzl’s moment, just as it did in the famous photograph.
Wanting to capture the moment, I stepped out into the corridor and summoned the butler. I asked him to take a photograph of me, standing in the same pose as Herzl overlooking the Rhine. Elbows on the cold railing, eyes fixed on the flowing river, I tried to recreate his stance. But something felt off. I was standing upright, while in the photograph, Herzl leans forward gracefully. When I bent forward to match his posture, I noticed the railing sat well above my elbows.
My mind raced with questions. Could the railing have been replaced over the years? I examined it closely. No! It matched the photograph perfectly, except that it had once been painted black and now stood in a light gray. I turned to the butler and asked, “Has the railing been changed or raised over the past decades?”
“No, sir,” he answered politely.
And then, a simple realization struck me. Herzl was literally head and shoulders above most men. A tall figure in every sense. If he had to bend down to rest his elbows here, then he must have been at least ten centimeters taller than I am. I’m 170 centimeters tall, thereore Herzl must have stood around 180.
This small revelation made me smile. Even in history’s grandest moments, there are hidden, human details reminders that the giants who shaped our future also walked among us as men.
The hotel is still in operation today, which is why the management does not allow tourists to enter Herzl’s room or take photos on the balcony. However, you can admire and photograph the iconic balcony from the outside either from the bridge or from the promenade across the Rhine.
It was from this hotel that Herzl departed for the Congress Hall, which still stands today. Known as the Stadtcasino (City Casino), it is located in Barfüsserplatz (Barefoot Square). Here, on its stage, sat the leading figures of the Zionist movement.
In the main hall, 208 delegates from 16 countries gathered, along with hundreds of enthusiastic Jewish observers and members of the press. I once had the opportunity to step inside the hall where the historic Congress sessions were held. At first, I couldn’t understand why the building is called a “casino.” There are no roulette wheels or gambling tables. Today, it functions as a theater and a lecture hall.
About thirty years ago, a commemorative copper plaque was installed on one of the interior walls. It bears an inscription in German and Hebrew:
“In this building, at the call and under the leadership of Binyamin Ze’ev Theodor Herzl (1860–1904), the First Zionist Congress convened on the 1st to 3rd of Elul, 5657 (August 1897), founding the World Zionist Organization and paving the way for the State of Israel.”
In just a couple of weeks, Basel will host the Eurovision Song Contest, drawing many Israeli visitors. But beyond the music and festivities, Basel is a destination rich in history, especially for Israelis. The city’s Old Town is enchanting, with its beautiful architecture, cobblestone alleys, ornate fountains, and dozens of museums. Wandering its narrow lanes is a pleasure in itself.
Barfüsserplatz is typically buzzing with life, not just because of the historic hall, but because it hosts open-air markets filled with antiques, art, flowers, and crafts. It’s also a major tram junction, connecting various parts of the city. At one edge of the square stands the whimsical Tinguely Fountain. In a shallow pool, nine kinetic sculptures—grotesque metal figures—twist, turn, and spray water in a playful mechanical dance. Nearby is the Basel Historical Museum, which showcases the city’s cultural past.
In my opinion, the city missed an opportunity by not developing the Stadtcasino into a tourist attraction. There is no signage indicating its historical significance, and the building remains closed to the public for much of the day. In the past, when I tried to arrange group visits, I was met with resistance and unwelcoming staff.
Basel boasts around 30 museums, but the most important for us is the Jewish Museum of Switzerland. Its collection includes Judaica, Torah scrolls, ark curtains, candlesticks, and other ritual objects. Most fascinating are the documents from the First Zionist Congress, Herzl’s letters, and exhibits chronicling the heritage of Basel’s Jewish community.
Years ago, the Jewish community established the Great Synagogue, a majestic structure built of light-colored stone accented with rows of red bricks and crowned with two large domes. Herzl himself attended services here on the Shabbath before the First Zionist Congress. Today, regular services are held only on Shabbath and holidays. On weekdays, prayers take place in a smaller synagogue in the courtyard beside the main building.
The community has since expanded, purchasing adjacent buildings to form a communal compound. Within its walls are a kindergarten, a Jewish day school, and a branch of Bnei Akiva. The kosher restaurant Topaz is also located here. The community’s rabbi was Israel Levinger, brother of Rabbi Moshe Levinger of Hebron. The chief cantor is Yissachar Helman.
Just a short five-minute walk from the Three Kings Hotel stands Basel’s impressive 500-year-old Town Hall. Built in a blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles, its vivid red façade makes it a striking landmark in the city. Intricate murals adorn both the interior and exterior walls, while the gilded tower glistens in the sunlight, adding a regal touch.
In front of the Town Hall lies the charming Market Square, a bustling hub filled with colorful stalls offering fresh produce, fragrant flowers, spices, clothing, and souvenirs. An ideal spot for tourists to soak in the local flavor.
Basel’s Old Town was once enclosed by a defensive wall, of which three original gates have survived. The most beautiful and iconic is the Spalentor. Standing over 40 meters tall, its ornate façade is decorated with elaborate sculptures, making it one of the city’s most photographed historic sites.
Basel boasts many more attractions, and visitors can obtain detailed information, maps, and recommendations at the Tourist Information Office located right in Market Square.
Photos: Jacob Maor, and courtesy of Basel Tourismus
