Bonn is located in western Germany on the banks of the Rhine River in its northern part, in Westphalia. The area is popular with wine-loving tourists, history buffs, and music lovers, yet it is not well known to Israeli tourists. The director of the German Tourist Bureau in Israel, Mrs. Goldie Miller, says that the city of Bonn is one of the ten must-see cities in Germany
Embarking on a captivating journey, I joined a group of intrepid travel writers to unveil the mystique of this extraordinary destination. Our gracious host, Christian Hoyter, head of the municipality's tourism department, guided us through the cobblestone streets of the old city. As we walked, we encountered "Stolperstein" or stumbling blocks, marking the entrances of Jewish homes ravaged during the Holocaust, bearing silent witness to a poignant history
Bonn bore the scars of World War II, yet pockets of architectural brilliance have endured. Strolling through this historical tapestry, you'll discover magnificent 19th-century houses, each adorned in opulent Baroque and Art Nouveau designs. In the heart of the old city lies Markt Platz square, a charming space boasting pastel-hued buildings and the resplendent Rathaus (town hall), adorned in pink and white, with intricate rococo-style gold embellishments. Lined with inviting cafes and eateries, this square and its surroundings have been painstakingly restored in a medieval fashion, a stark contrast to the modern facets of the city's renewal
Beethoven House
At the heart of Bonn's allure lies the profound legacy of Ludwig van Beethoven, the revered composer. Born in Bonn in 1770, Beethoven spent his formative years at Bonngasse 20 before relocating to Vienna, where he crafted his illustrious musical career. Miraculously spared from wartime destruction, his family home now stands as the iconic Beethoven House, a museum dedicated to preserving his enduring legacy
Venturing within, you'll encounter the world's most extensive collection of artifacts linked to the maestro. The very rooms where the Beethoven family once dined and gathered have been meticulously preserved, adorned with portraits of the great composer, including the renowned Josef Karl Stiller portrait
On the second floor, a treasure trove of Beethoven's manuscripts, the viola he played in his youth, and fragments of a church organ grace the exhibit. As a young prodigy, Beethoven often stood by the side of his private organ tutor, even filling in on occasion at the tender age of 13
Ascending to the third floor, one can glean insight into Beethoven's daily life in his youth through a trove of correspondence. There, perched regally, is the very piano upon which Beethoven composed his symphonies, bearing the indelible marks of his fervent keystrokes. On its inner surface, a plate bearing the name "Beethofen" (with an F) serves as a poignant reminder of the master's enduring legacy
Perhaps most poignantly, the adjacent room unfolds a poignant chapter in Beethoven's life. Afflicted by deafness in his youth, visitors can view a collection of bespoke hearing aids, peculiar and uncomfortable devices that served as his auditory lifeline. Despite the absence of sound, Beethoven's memory resonated with symphonies and sonatas, penned from the depths of his silent world
From Government Hubs to Museum Marvels
Nestled in the heart of Germany, Bonn, known for its pivotal role as the capital of West Germany until the Berlin Wall's fall, unveils a captivating blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Let's embark on a journey to discover this remarkable city, rich in heritage and charm
Bonn's Governmental Legacy
Once the epicenter of political power, Bonn's government district resonates with echoes of history. The Alexander Koenig Museum, originally designed to house a zoologist's exotic collections, took a surprising turn as the temporary residence of Chancellor Adenauer in 1948. Despite its transformation, Koenig's beloved stuffed animals posed a unique challenge, leading the Chancellor to vacate his premises
Directly across from the Koenig Museum lies Villa Hammerschmidt, affectionately nicknamed "Bonn's White House" for its resemblance to its American counterpart. The villa, though closed to visitors today, offers glimpses through an ornate iron fence, granting an intriguing view of the garden and architecture
Adjacent to Villa Hammerschmidt is the historic Palais Schaumburg, where the Bundestag convened to draft the German constitution. The annual garden party hosted by the Chancellor once graced its grounds, and the palatial edifice, though presently under renovation, remains a symbol of Bonn's illustrious political past
Further down the boulevard, modern buildings once housed government offices and the Bundestag. These grand structures, now repurposed, bear witness to the city's transformation following the shift of the capital to Berlin. Notably, this area boasts the United Nations' only representative office in Germany, reaffirming Bonn's enduring international importance
Museum Mile: A Cultural Odyssey
Bonn's "Museum Mile" offers an unrivaled treasure trove for enthusiasts of art, history, and culture. With nearly 20 museums lining this captivating avenue, it's a cultural explorer's dream
Begin your journey at the History Museum, an homage to Bonn's post-World War II rebirth, with a display of the city's accelerated development. Alongside, take a moment to notice the engraved sidewalk stones, a tribute to the lives lost to AIDS, reminiscent of the Copper Stumbling Blocks project but grander in scale
The Zoological Museum of Alexander Koenig awaits further down, showcasing fascinating insights into the world of wildlife. Continue your artistic odyssey at the Kunsts Museum, where works by renowned artists such as Picasso, Miro, Matisse, and Clay grace the walls. In an adjacent building, the Museum of Modern Art unfolds an exploration of color's meaning and its psychological impact on humanity
The Akademisches Kunstmuseum and the Rhine Museum (Rheinisches Landesmuseum Bonn) house ancient artifacts, offering a glimpse into history's fascinating tapestry. And not to be missed, the Deutsches Museum is a treasure trove of inventions and pioneering discoveries by Nobel Prize laureates, showcasing small but transformative objects that have shaped our modern world, from computer chips to Fisher's ubiquitous dowel
Bonn's rich tapestry, interwoven with its political legacy and cultural riches, invites you to explore its diverse and captivating offerings. Experience the spirit of this enchanting city on your next adventure
Jewish Heritage in Bonn: Tracing a Path of Resilience
In the annals of Bonn's history, a remarkable journey of the Jewish community unfolds. Nestled at the heart of the city, the Jewish street, known as Judengasse, once stood near the vibrant Market Platz square, bearing testament to centuries of heritage and resilience
A Synagogue's Tale
In 1715, the solemn notes of a synagogue's inauguration echoed through the streets of Judengasse, marking the spiritual center of Bonn's Jewish community. However, destiny had other plans. Roughly a century and a half later, this sacred place was razed to make way for a bridge spanning the majestic Rhine River. In exchange, a more expansive plot was offered to the Jewish community, where they constructed a grand, magnificent synagogue that graced its zenith in 1879, as vividly captured in a photograph from 1880
A robust community center and administrative offices were constructed beside the synagogue, fostering the spirit of unity among Bonn's Jewish residents. Yet, the darkest hour in history was fast approaching
A Tragic Night: Kristallnacht
The night of Kristallnacht in 1938 bore witness to unimaginable horror, as the Nazis orchestrated the burning of the synagogue and the community center, reducing them to ashes. Barely a year later, the Germans cleared away the charred remnants, and the land was seized by the municipality of Bonn. World War II left no respite; the British bombing of the nearby bridge further altered the landscape. During the bridge's reconstruction, aptly named the John Kennedy Bridge, the synagogue's ruins were buried beneath layers of earth
In the years that followed, efforts to preserve history came to light. Most of the ruins were uncovered, revealing the foundations of the grand synagogue. Today, a poignant reminder graces the northwest corner of the bridge, adjacent to the opera building. What remains are the foundations of the eastern and western walls, separated by an expanse of approximately seventy meters. Most of its area is currently crossed by Friz Schroeder Ufer Street. It is easy to locate the place by the Hilton Hotel built next to the Western Wall
Above the eastern wall's foundations, a wall, fashioned from a memorial, imbued with powerful symbolism, now stands by the eastern wall, representing a visual antithesis to the original synagogue. Elements that once adorned the synagogue now exist as depressions and voids in the monument, an emotional counterpoint to Kristallnacht and its devastating legacy
Above the foundations of the eastern wall, they added the construction of a wall about one and a half meters high, made from the original red bricks that were scattered there. An interesting and inspiring monument was erected by the east wall. Every detail of the monument is the opposite of what was in the original synagogue. Elements that were prominent in the original building became depressions and spaces. In the original eastern MIZRACH wall that faced the river, there was a bulge in the shape of the Star of David on the back of the Ark. In its place, they left an empty space in the monument in the shape of half a star of David, which the river can be seen thru it
Inside the synagogue was the Bima, a platform for reading the Torah, which was reached by 4 steps upward. In the monument, they dug a hole in the exact size of that stage, which is reached by 4 steps downward. In the center of the platform in the Synagogue stood the Torah reading table. In the same place in the memorial they placed a kind of table made of black rock, carved in the shape of a Star of David
On the restored wall hanging black metal signs. On the left is written in Hebrew the verse from Psalms (9/21): "Put them in fear, O Lord, that the nations will know to be but human". i
I call this monument "Negative", (I wasn't able to find out its original name and the name of the genius who created it). It shows the visual negativity of the synagogue, and reflects an emotional negativity against Kristallnacht and that generation of murdering Germans, that killed most of my family
Discovering the Past
In 1956, the Jewish community, in a symbolic gesture, sold the synagogue's grounds to the municipality, using the proceeds to acquire a new location on Tempelstraße 2, north of the parliament building, where a contemporary synagogue now stands. Elegantly spacious and resplendent with stained glass, it remains an enduring testament to faith and hope
The synagogue is beautiful and spacious. The Holy Ark stands on the eastern wall, which is entirely covered with stained glass
During the time when the government was in Bonn, employees of the Israeli embassy in Bonn and people from the US and other embassies also prayed here. As Bonn declined in its political importance, so did the Jewish community of Bonn
Presently, around 350 members are registered, predominantly immigrants from the former Soviet Union. Shabbat prayers witness only a handful of attendees, testifying to the changing dynamics. The community operates without a resident rabbi, organized by the cantor, and without a kosher restaurant to call its own
Today, only about 350 members are registered in the Jewish community, the vast majority of Immigrants from the former Soviet Union. Only a few come to pray on Shabbat. At the Kabbalat Shabbat I attended, we were only 8 worshippers, including the cantor and a guest from France
A Glimpse Across the Rhine
Across the Rhine River, in the opulent neighborhood of Koenigwinter, a modest Shtibel hosts gatherings every Saturday. Here, an ancient document from the 12th century recounts a pact between a prosperous Jewish family and the governor, with the family paying the governor to capture the murderers of their young son
On the Rhine's banks, adjacent to Koenigwinter's boardwalk, remnants of a Jewish cemetery persist. The earliest gravestones date back 700 years, their inscriptions eroded by time. The most recent tombstone, from 1957, belongs to Albert Cohen, a soldier in the First World War who returned to Koenigwinter, opened a shop, and faced the ravages of Kristallnacht. Albert's story is a poignant reminder of the interconnectedness of Jewish history
While much of the cemetery was lost to progress, including the construction of the boardwalk and adjacent railroad, a stone fence surrounds the remaining grounds. Though the gate stands closed, it offers a symbolic passage to the past, ready to be explored with a gentle push or a determined nudge
Exploring Beyond Bonn: Unveiling Hidden Treasures
As we venture beyond the city limits of Bonn, a treasure trove of history, nature, and fascinating sites awaits, where each destination beckons with a unique allure
Koenigwinter: A Natural Haven
Nestled at the base of the Seven Mountains (Siebengebirge) nature reserve, the town of Koenigwinter unfurls before travelers, offering tourist attractions and delightful forest trails. At its zenith stands the iconic Drachenfels Dragon Rock, bearing the remnants of the 12th-century Drachenfels Castle, originally constructed to safeguard Cologne from the south
This enchanting landscape has been a wellspring of inspiration for luminaries like Lord Byron, Heinrich Heine, and Edward Bulwer-Lytton, drawn to its romantic vistas and timeless charm. The picturesque Drachenfels Castle, set against the backdrop of the Dragon Rock, remains a testament to the town's allure
Nestled within the heart of the forest is the elegant Petersburg Hotel, which played a pivotal role in history. Post-World War II, it served as the Allied forces' headquarters against the Nazi regime. In 1955, it was transformed into the official guest house of the German government, hosting luminaries such as Emperor Haile Selassie of Ethiopia, the Shah of Iran, Nelson Mandela, Mikhail Gorbachev, and numerous others
Over the years, the hotel has been a hub for pivotal international conferences, including the "Bonn Agreement" addressing the crisis in Afghanistan, international climate summits, and the European Union's annual foreign ministers' conferences. Today, the Petersburg Hotel stands as a luxurious retreat, where top-floor suites boast breathtaking views of the Rhine, stretching all the way to Bonn and, on a clear day, even revealing the Cologne Cathedral on the horizon
Adjacent to the hotel's grounds lies the remains of an ancient monastery, now marked by paths, once trodden by monks and donkeys, leading down the mountainside to the town below
Cruising on the Rhine: An Idyllic Journey
No visit to Bonn is complete without experiencing a serene cruise on the picturesque Rhine River. Our delegation had the pleasure of sailing from Koenigwinter back to Bonn, a delightful two-hour journey showcasing lush forests and homes nestled along the riverbanks. The gentle breeze and panoramic views add a touch of magic to the voyage. Be prepared for a few lively gusts that might playfully tease your kipas and hats
For those who prefer to stay closer to Bonn, river cruise ships, stationed on the city's central promenade, offer a variety of cruise options, whether short or extended. Sunset cruises, in particular, offer the exquisite beauty of witnessing the sun dip below the horizon, transforming the Rhine into a spectacle of shimmering reflections
Documentation Site: A Peek into History's Shelter
In the 1950s, amidst the frigid tensions of the Cold War, the German government constructed an atomic shelter inside a coal mine, located just a short drive from Bonn. It was envisioned as a refuge for government officials in the event of nuclear conflict. The atomic bunker spans approximately three kilometers in length, with the initial 220 meters now open to the public
Within the bunker's labyrinthine halls are office spaces and living quarters, designed to accommodate around 3,000 civil servants who would work in the aftermath of an atomic strike. Each living room features two bunk beds, except for the Chancellor's, which boasts just one bed, alongside a reception room and a government meeting space
The facility also includes an extensive communication center to maintain contact with the outside world. Moreover, it houses a television studio, where the Chancellor could address the nation, even amidst the radiological aftermath
As we step inside, the enormity of the facility is palpable, with massive radiation-resistant doors at the entrance. The shelter offers a poignant reflection on militarism, security, and political relations during times of tension
The German government invested many billions in this facility, but it turned out that the investment could not bear the desired fruits. Not only because NATO countries were not attacked with an atomic bomb, but because the planning and construction were done according to the size of bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. But in 1955, when the bunker was inaugurated, there were more powerful atomic bombs in the world that this shelter could not withstand. The tour of the facility evokes thoughts about militarism and security in the world, and about political relations even in times of tension
Vineyard Excursions: Savoring the Sip of History
Bonn beckons wine enthusiasts to explore its enchanting vineyards and wineries, nestled amid the idyllic agricultural landscapes that surround the city. The scenery is nothing short of stunning, with each village boasting several wineries, each specializing in a unique wine variety, often passed down through generations
Some wineries offer visitor centers, providing a window into the winemaking process, from grape pressing to aging in barrels, and finally, bottling. Wine aficionados can delight in complimentary tastings and even purchase bottles to savor later
All wineries there are considered 'Nesech Wine'. I looked for a kosher winery, but I couldn't find any. Our delegation was hosted in the cellars of the Kriechel winery, which specializes only in the Pinot Noir variety. After a fascinating lecture, we were served wine tastings. I asked the owner of the winery, Mr. Wolber, if he also has kosher wine too. The kind gentile answered me innocently: "Everything is kosher by us because we do not add animal additives or any other additives to our wines." i
A Multifaceted Conclusion
In the light of my sojourn, I wholeheartedly recommend exploring Westphalia in the Rhineland state. Bonn, a stone's throw away from the popular Black Forest destination, has risen to its full glory, shedding its COVID-19 restrictions, except for the mandatory mask-wearing on public transport
Our journey, under the gracious aegis of DZT and the German Tourism Bureau in Israel, revealed a tapestry of experiences, weaving a compelling narrative of history, nature, and cultural heritage. Bonn and its environs are an exploration waiting to unfold, a captivating odyssey for the adventurous traveler
The author was a guest of DZT and the German Tourism Bureau in Israel
