Lublin is a unique city for Jewish travelers. While today there are very few Jews living in Lublin, the city is rich with Jewish heritage sites. Before the Holocaust, Lublin played a significant role in shaping Jewish culture worldwide. There's something special about this city that attracted some of the greatest rabbis in Jewish history. Here is an overview of a few key figures and their legacies:
The Maharam of Lublin
A prominent Jewish leader in the 20th century was Rabbi Yehuda Meir Shapiro, also known as the Maharam of Lublin. He was the head of the Lublin Yeshiva and the founder of the 'Daf Yomi' (daily Talmud page) project. Next Thursday, on the 9th of Elul (12/9), we commemorate 102 years since the Maharam's declaration to establish the Daf Yomi. This project encourages Jews to study one page of Talmud daily, completing the entire Talmud in seven and a half years. Today, hundreds of thousands of Jews around the world, including myself, participate in this daily study, making Lublin a city that touches us personally.
The Lublin Yeshiva Building: A Century Ago and Today (above)
Another significant achievement of the Maharam was the establishment of the Lublin Yeshiva. It was a monumental institution, both in stature (six stories tall) and spiritually. Admission required knowledge of 200 pages of Talmud by heart, making it the most sought-after yeshiva globally. The building still stands today and has been repurposed as the Ilan Hotel. (Address: ul. Lubartowska 85).
The local Jewish community has restored the original inscriptions that once adorned the yeshiva’s upper walls. The name "Hotel Ilan" appears discreetly above the entrance, preserving the building’s historical essence. The Beit Midrash (study hall) has also been restored. and are now used as a Jewish museum, and active as the synagogue of the communityץ The library rooms (Otzar Hasfarim) have been refurbished as a Jewish museum.
The only kosher restaurant in Lublin operates on the ground floor and basement.
The Maharam longed to make Aliyah to Eretz Israel (the Land of Israel) throughout his life. In his final year, he studied the commandments specifically related to the land (Mitzvot Tluyot Ba'aretz) and the order of Zeraim. On Simchat Torah that year, he prayed at the synagogue of the Chozeh of Lublin, contrary to his usual practice. When asked why, he explained that he usually recited the Hallel of the Passover evening in that synagogue, but since he planned to be in Israel the following Passover, he came for Simchat Torah instead. Tragically, two weeks after Simchat Torah, he passed away at the age of 46, never fulfilling his dream of making Aliyah. He was initially buried in Lublin’s new Jewish cemetery, and in 1958, his remains were transferred to the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem.
The Chozeh of Lublin
In the 18th century, Rabbi Yaakov Yitzchak Horowitz, known as the Chozeh of Lublin, was a prominent Hasidic leader. He was a disciple of Rabbi Elimelech of Leżajsk and earned the nickname "The Chozeh" (The Seer) for his extraordinary ability to read people's thoughts and recall details from their past, even those they had forgotten. Many sought his counsel, and his influence extended to both Jews and non-Jews. To this day, Lublin’s municipal emblem features an eye, symbolizing the Chozeh.
The Chozeh’s teachings were grounded in love—love for individuals, the Jewish people, and God. He sought to draw closer and encourage the simple folk, which led to some of his students, who favored more elitist teachings, breaking away to establish the Pshischa school of Hasidism. Martin Buber wrote about this schism in his book "Gog and Magog."
In 1794, the Chozeh established a large synagogue and Beit Midrash that could accommodate 180 people, located in the Jewish quarter on the northern slope of the fortress, where the Polish king would stay when visiting Lublin. On the hill's edge, there is now a lion statue marking where the Chozeh’s synagogue once stood.
The Chozeh’s followers often said, "Lublin is 'Eretz Yisrael,' the Hasidic courtyard is 'Jerusalem,' the Beit Midrash is 'the Temple Mount,' the Chozeh's apartment above is 'the Azarah,' and his room is 'the Kodesh HaKodashim (Holy of Holies).'"
After the deportation of the Lublin Jews in 1942 to the Belzec and Majdanek death camps, the Nazis ordered Jews from the Majdanek camp to demolish the area. Recently, leaders of the World Jewish Restitution Organization (WJRO) asked Polish authorities to return the land for the synagogue’s restoration, but there has been no progress yet
Today, west of the citadel, there is a square that leads to Szeroka Street. At number 28, a plaque in Hebrew, Yiddish, and Polish reads: "In this place formerly lived and acted Jacob Isaac Horowitz, the Chozeh of Lublin, 1745-1815, a founder of Hasidism in the Kingdom of Poland."
In 1814, during the Simchat Torah celebration, the Chozeh, after drinking too much, went up to the second floor, stood on the windowsill, and fell (or jumped). He suffered from paralysis and depression and passed away ten months later, on the 9th of Av. He is buried in the Jewish cemetery in Grodzisko hill. His grave remains a pilgrimage site for Jews who come to pray and place requests (Kvitlech) on his tombstone.
On the fence of the old Jewish cemetery, we can find the names of Jews murdered by Cossacks in the 17th century. A key to the cemetery is available at the reception desk of the Ilan Hotel. When visiting, it’s also worth looking for the oldest Jewish grave in Poland, that of Jacob Kopelman, who was buried there in 1541.
Rabbi Zadok HaKohen of Lublin
One of the prominent Hasidic leaders in Lublin at the end of the 19th century was Rabbi Zadok HaKohen. He was a Torah genius, known for his discipline of finishing an entire tractate (Masechet) of the Talmud each day before sitting down to eat. Rabbi Zadok is renowned for focusing on the merits of the Jewish people and recognizing their inherent goodness. He viewed sin as an external layer that does not truly reflect a person's inner intentions.
Rabbi Zadok HaKohen authored many significant religious books. In our generation, Rabbi Eliezer Melamed, head of Yeshivat Har Bracha, established an institute dedicated to publishing updated editions of Rabbi Zadok's works. His books continue to be widely studied, especially in Zionist yeshivas.
In his youth, Rabbi Zadok was a Lithuanian Mitnaged, originally opposed to the Hasidic movement. At the age of 20, he sought to divorce his wife after she shook hands with a Polish officer in her father's shop. She refused the divorce, prompting him to study the laws of "Heter Meah Rabbanim" (the dispensation of 100 rabbis that allows a man to remarry without his wife's consent) in depth. He even wrote a book about divorcing a woman against her will, despite the ban imposed by Rabbeinu Gershom.
During his journey to collect signatures from rabbis for this cause, Rabbi Zadok arrived at the court of Rabbi Mordechai Yosef Leiner of IIzbitze, author of "Mei HaShiloach." Under Rabbi Leiner's influence, Rabbi Zadok became a Hasid and remained in Izbitze. It was there that he met Rabbi Yehuda Leib Eiger, the grandson of Rabbi Akiva Eiger. The two became study partners (chavruta) and close friends for many years. After the death of Rabbi Leiner, both men moved to Lublin, where Rabbi Leibele Eiger was appointed as the Admor (Hasidic leader) of Lublin. Following Rabbi Leibele's passing, Rabbi Zadok HaKohen was chosen as his successor.
Rabbi Zadok HaKohen passed away on the 9th of Elul, 5660 (1900), a date that also connects us to the founding day of the Daf Yomi (daily Talmud study program). The two Admors, who were close friends, are buried side by side in the new cemetery of Lublin.
The Maharshal
As early as the 16th century, a prominent yeshiva was established in Lublin, led by Morenu Harav Shlomo Luria, also known as the Maharshal. He was one of the greatest halachic authorities and Talmud commentators of his time and a leader of Ashkenazi Jewry. His books, "Chochmat Shlomo" and "Yam Shel Shlomo," are considered foundational works in Talmudic scholarship. The Maharshal established a synagogue with unique dimensions: 36 cubits long and 32 cubits wide, symbolizing a "Lulav" (palm branch). The remnants of his synagogue and study hall can still be found in the park near the fortress.
Yasha, the Magician of Lublin
Another notable Jewish figure from Lublin, though not a rabbi, is Yasha, the protagonist of Isaac Bashevis Singer's novel The Magician of Lublin. This novel, which was later adapted into a movie, tells the story of a man who transitions from secularism to Orthodox Judaism. Yasha is depicted as a charismatic con artist who deceives people with false promises and money schemes. Eventually, The tragic consequences of his actions cause him to undergo an inner transformation (Chozer BeTeshuva). He returns to Lublin, locks himself in a cell and becomes known as a holy Jew with special abilities. Yasha has become a part of Jewish tourist attractions in Lublin, thanks to a statue of his likeness located between buildings on Grodzka Street. Also, one of the most important festivals in Lublin, 'The Carnival of Magicians' (last weekend of July each year) refers to the Magician of Lublin.
The significance of the book lies not just in its plot, but in its vivid portrayal of Jewish life in Lublin. I recommend reading it before visiting Lublin to gain a deeper understanding of the city's Jewish history.
Synagogues in Lublin
When walking from Yeshivat Chachmei Lublin toward the Krakow Gate, you will find the "Chevra Nosim" synagogue, associated with the Chevra Kadisha (burial society) members. This is the only synagogue in Lublin that survived the Holocaust, located at 8 Lubartowska Street.
In 2008, the "Jesteśmy" ("We Are") exhibition opened in the "Nosim" hall, showcasing photographs, several Torah scrolls, sacred books printed in Lublin, and religious artifacts.
More Jewish Sites
Lublin has a rich history, and we are particularly interested in its Jewish history. The Jewish quarter of Lublin stretched beyond the northern wall of the Old Town. The Jewish quarter was mainly around Krawiecka and Podzamcze Streets. It's worth going to see a stone on the ground marking the boundary line of the ghetto. On the wall beside it, a Polish poem "Koleżanki” (‘Classmates’) by Julia Hartwig; about two Jewish classmates of the lyrical I that were taken to the Lublin Ghetto.
From there, we will stroll around the Jewish Quarter. Enter through the "Grodzka Gate," also known as the "Jewish Gate."
At the Grodzka Gate is now home to the NN Theater, where meetings, lectures, and events are held in the context of Lublin's Jewish heritage before the Holocaust. It is a cultural center for preserving Jewish heritage. It features an exhibition of photos and testimonies that are worth seeing.
Between the two world wars, Lublin was a Jewish center with a network of schools, Hebrew printing houses, and even newspapers were published there. It also had 9 political Jewish parties, including the Mizrachi Party of religious Zionism. The Mizrachi also established a youth movement called "Young Mizrachi," which served as the foundation for our Bnei Akiva movement.
On Zimna Street, there is an Umschlagplatz Square, where the Nazis gathered the Jews before deporting them to extermination camps. Today, a memorial has been placed in memory of the deportees on a wall on the side of the square.
In the city's square, there is also a memorial stone in memory of the local Holocaust victims.
Inside the Grodzka Gate, we can see remnants of a sign in Hebrew letters, standing above a Jewish store that operated here.
Lublin has a special relationship with wall paintings and graffiti, like in other cities in Poland. Among the many walls adorned with graffiti, we can see a whole wall with a poem in Yiddish, which translates to: "Where did it disappear? Where is the house? Where is that girl? Those I love so much?"
On Olejna Street, we can see some houses where Sukkahs remain forever. Another proof of the rich Jewish life that existed here. Once, there were many such sukkahs protruding from houses in the Jewish quarter.
General Sites
Lublin is considered a general tourist city. The Lublin province is also considered a paradise for travelers. There grow the Janowska and Solska forests. It is rich in beautiful scenic valleys, magnificent rivers, and also offers walking and biking trails. Lublin boasts a splendid multicultural tradition of about 700 years and impressive ancient architecture. About 70% of the buildings have been preserved in their original form, most from the Renaissance period.
Lublin Castle: One of the city's symbols. The castle has a long history, now presented in the city museum located there. Climbing to the top of the castle provides a breathtaking panoramic view. Here, in the 16th century, a historic agreement was signed for the union of Poland and Lithuania.
The Old Town Hall: Behind the walls of Lublin is the old town hall that immediately attracts attention. One of the attractions here is the underground city, spanning three hundred meters beneath the buildings of the old city.
The Old City: The Old City district seamlessly blends old and new in harmony. Narrow, cobblestone streets evoke a medieval atmosphere, transporting visitors back in time. Here, you can see stunning architectural structures from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance period. Today, the district primarily serves as a modern entertainment center, offering a variety of cafes, street vendors, diverse restaurants, and accommodation options.
If we have more time, it's worth visiting the state museum at Majdanek German nazy concentration and extermination camp, which is in Lublin.
Lublin is located in southeastern Poland, less than a two-hour drive from Warsaw, and about 2 hours drive from the border with Ukraine.
Photos courtesy of the Lublin Municipality and Itamar Levin