Sri Lanka, situated in the eastern part of India, boasts a captivating history with a diverse and presently modest Jewish community. Renowned for its allure as a global tourist destination, the island welcomed nearly two million visitors in 2019, with around 15,000 Israelis drawn to its enchanting landscapes and pristine beaches, providing an ideal setting for a serene vacation.

Beyond the well-trodden tourist paths lie popular surf beaches that attract enthusiasts worldwide, including those from Israel. In the heart of the island, captivating jungle 4×4 jeep tours offer encounters with elephants and leopards, catering to the interests of safari enthusiasts.

While planning a visit to Sri Lanka, it is worth delving into the lesser-known Jewish aspects of this captivating island, often overlooked by mainstream tourist guides and unfamiliar to local tour guides.

Local folklore suggests that after Adam and Eve were expelled from the Garden of Eden, they found refuge in Sri Lanka, a narrative reflected in the Sinhala language's name for the island, meaning "Wonderful Island."

According to local mythology, Mount Adam's Peak in the island's center is identified with the biblical Mount Ararat, where Noah's Ark is believed to have landed.

The Bible says, "For the king's ships went to Tarshish with the servants of Hiram. Once every three years the ships of Tarshish used to come bringing gold, silver, ivory, apes, and peacocks" (2 Chronicles 9:21). Drawing inspiration from biblical passages, the city of Galle is considered by locals to be the "Tarshish" mentioned in the Bible, where King Solomon dispatched merchant ships every three years to bring back treasures such as gold, silver, ivory, apes, and peacocks. The elephants, emblematic of the island, were also among the treasures brought back to the Land of Israel.

History links

The historical records of Jewish life in Sri Lanka date back to the 9th century when the Persian traveler Abu Sa'id al-Hasan noted a "significant number of Jews" on the island. Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela, in 1130, reported approximately 3,000 Jews in his "Book of Travels," marking one of the largest Jewish communities he encountered in the East. In 1154, during the reign of a Sinhalese king, four Jews held ministerial positions in a government comprised of 16 ministers, underscoring the esteemed status of the Jewish community during that era.

Colonial Period

Throughout the colonial era, Sri Lanka witnessed the dominance of three powers. In the mid-15th century, the Portuguese asserted control over the island, subsequently renaming it Ceylon. Concurrently, a wave of Jewish immigrants accompanied the Portuguese, contributing significantly to ship management, accounting for maritime activities, trade, and the construction of ports along the northern and western coasts.

Following the expulsion of Jews from Spain in 1492, a substantial influx of expelled Jews from both Spain and Portugal sought refuge on the island. Unfortunately, their pursuit of peace and prosperity in Ceylon was thwarted by persecution from Portuguese authorities. Many were compelled to wander again, eventually finding settlement in Cochin, South India. Those who remained in Ceylon faced persecution, forced conversion, and the emergence of a group known as "Marranos" – Jews who clandestinely continued to observe Jewish commandments. Notably, this group differed from the "Burgers," offspring of mixed-race unions between Sinhalese and European Jews or Christians, recognized by fair skin and a higher socioeconomic status. Although some Burgher Christians bear Jewish surnames like David and Salomon today, they no longer maintain a connection to Judaism.

In 1615, the Dutch ousted the Portuguese from Ceylon, attracting Jewish traders from Amsterdam and Malabar (India). In the late 18th century, Leopold Van Dort, a Jewish professor from the Netherlands, assumed leadership of the Hebrew department at the University of Colombo in Ceylon. Van Dort's notable contribution included the translation of the Quran into Hebrew, preceding the more widely known translation by Joseph Joel Rivlin.

It is worth noting that while the Dutch and Portuguese occupied coastal regions, they failed to subdue the mountainous central areas. The British seized control in 1790, ultimately making Ceylon a British colony by 1815.

British Rule

Under British rule, the Jewish community in Ceylon thrived, exerting a notable influence on public life across diverse fields. Jewish officials occupied senior positions in public service, including the renowned writer Leonard Woolf, spouse of author Virginia Woolf. Leonard Woolf served as the deputy governor of the Hambantota district, capturing his experiences in the acclaimed book "Village in the Jungle," considered a masterpiece of world literature that vividly depicts life in Ceylon during his tenure.

V.I.P. Jews

Heidi Solomon Cohenman played a pivotal role in the wartime effort by overseeing the distribution of food to the population. Her leadership during the "Period of Austerity" is lauded to this day for effectively averting famine on a large scale. Born into an orthodox Jewish family in Austria, Heidi studied at the University of Cambridge, where she became involved in the communist movement. Her journey led her to Ceylon, where she married a fellow student, eventually becoming the wife of the Minister of Finance in the Ceylon government.

Adit Lodovich Gyomroi, a poet and psychologist hailing from Hungary, established the University Drama Society (DramSoc) and produced plays with a focus on women. Her influence extended to the founding of a women's movement in Manikkadavala, leaving a lasting impact on Sri Lankan politics.

Daniel Ulrik Palænner, the prominent architect of Ceylon, born in Denmark, left his mark with noteworthy projects across the island. In his later years, he relocated to Israel and passed away in 2016 during a visit to his homeland in Denmark.

Roda Miller, an American, met her future husband, Joe de Silva, in Europe after World War II. They returned to Ceylon, where she became a senior journalist for the Ceylon Daily News. Due to her communist affiliations, she was expelled to America, along with her close friend Claudine Liebovitch, a Jewish native of England. The Communist Party in Ceylon campaigned for their return, gaining significant global media coverage.

Sir Sidney Abraham and Sir Alan Rose, both Jews, served as Chief Justices of the Supreme Court in Ceylon. In 1809, Sir Alexander Johnston proposed a plan for a large Jewish settlement in Ceylon, but bureaucratic obstacles thwarted its implementation.

Mr. W. Cohen, the preeminent Jewish banker, founded the Mercantile Bank in Ceylon.

The renowned tea industry, a cornerstone of Ceylon's economy since the 19th century, is attributed to the de Worms Jewish brothers – Morris, Gabriel, and Solomon. Initially involved in coffee plantations, they switched to tea after the blight epidemic disrupted their crops. Ceylon tea, marketed successfully throughout Europe, remains a major export industry. The contribution of Jews to the Sri Lankan economy is acknowledged and appreciated.

Gabriel de Worms, one of the brothers, made history when, during his swearing-in ceremony as head of the legislative council, he insisted on taking the oath on the Jewish Old Testament instead of the New Testament.

Marie Musaeus Higgins, the widow of an American Civil War hero, settled in Ceylon and managed a Buddhist school for girls. Under her guidance, the institution evolved into a significant college that continues to operate today, bearing her name.

Anne Ranasinghe, a national poet of Sri Lanka, stands out as a Jewish Holocaust survivor originally named Hannah Katz, born in Dresden, Germany. Sent to London by her parents as the Nazis ascended to power, she tragically lost them to the Holocaust. In London, she pursued nursing and found love with a young doctor from Ceylon completing his specialization in England. The couple married and returned to Ceylon, where Anne's poignant poems are now part of the curriculum in schools, akin to the way Bialik's poems are taught in Israel. She passed away in Sri Lanka in 2016, honoring her wish to be buried as a Jew.

These are just glimpses of the impactful Jewish figures who once lived in Ceylon.

The Jewish community

Ceylon gained independence from British rule in 1948, just three months before Israel declared its independence. Almost all of the Jewish community in Ceylon departed in 1949, with about half relocating to Israel, primarily to Haifa.

The Sri Lankan ambassador to Israel, Waruna Wilpatha, actively seeks to connect with them and their descendants. He invites them to reach out to the embassy in Tel Aviv, expressing the embassy's commitment to assisting in reconnecting with their roots and facilitating visits to Sri Lanka. The ambassador hopes that this outreach, facilitated by articles like yours, may prompt them to seek information and engage with their country of origin.

In 1972, Ceylon transitioned into a republic and reverted to its ancient and original name, Sri Lanka.

Although the Jewish community in Ceylon ceased to exist in 1949, remnants from the British period linger. The once grand synagogue in Steuart Place, Colombo, frequented by British soldiers stationed in Ceylon, was known as "The Great Synagogue," suggesting the presence of smaller synagogues. A photograph from 1966 captured the grandeur of The Great Synagogue:

Regrettably, the synagogue and its surroundings were demolished. In its place, the Rotunda Gardens now stand, and the Cinnamon Red Hotel was constructed across from the synagogue's former location. Though the hotel once displayed a historical sign reading "The Synagogue," it disappeared during recent renovations.

The vibrant Jewish community gradually declined due to mixed marriages, nearly fading away entirely. Anne Ranasinghe, referring to herself as the "last Jew in Ceylon," highlighted the dwindling community. Today, local Jews conceal their religious identity, attributing it to concerns about religious intolerance and fear of potential threats from militant Muslims. A century ago, an American Jewish journalist visiting Ceylon inquired about the community's reluctance to reveal their religion. The responses received underscored the prevailing climate of fear, with sentiments expressing apprehension about potential harm to their homes and a desire to protect their graves from desecration.

Yitzhak Carmeli sought and researched the history of Judaism in Sri Lanka. During his visit in 2015, he discovered graves with Hebrew inscriptions in a Christian cemetery in Colombo:

   

On the upper picture is a tombstone on the grave of a girl named Leahya, daughter of Reb Leib, who passed away in 1908 at the age of 7. Below it is a tombstone from 1989, inscribed with Reb Gershom.

Ambassador Waruna Wilpatha adds that in other Christian cemeteries in the city of Kandy, you can also find tombstones of Jews. Like this one of a British soldier named Rosenfeld:

Yitzhak Carmeli made a remarkable discovery by uncovering the tomb of Zigmund Feniger, a significant Buddhist monk and Holocaust survivor, whose original name bore his Jewish roots. Born into a rabbinical family in Berlin, Feniger escaped Germany during the rise of the Nazis and sought refuge in Ceylon's Hermitage Island, evading British authorities who were apprehending German citizens. Embracing Buddhism, he assumed the name Nyanaponika Thera, all the while retaining his Jewish identity. Feniger's unique journey led him to become one of the first Western philosophers to disseminate Buddhist teachings globally. Establishing a Buddhist monastery, he insisted on employing only local labor. Feniger translated Buddhist texts into German, founded the Buddhist Publication Society, and remained at its helm until his passing. His influence extended to Eastern philosophers, and he taught fellow Jewish Holocaust survivors.

During David Ben-Gurion's visit to Burma in 1961, Feniger met him, marking the beginning of a lasting correspondence. Feniger's monastery and residence endure, and the discovery of a preserved box by one of his students revealed documents and family pictures from his German heritage. A close relative of Feniger now resides in Jerusalem.

Paradoxically, 1949 marked the symbolic end of Judaism in Sri Lanka, echoing Carmeli's findings. In a metaphorical sense, one could say that Judaism was laid to rest in local Christian cemeteries.

The Current Era

After nearly fifty years of spiritual Jewish dormancy, the Jewish phoenix appears to be reawakening in the early years of this millennium. Signs of renewed vitality suggest a revival of the Jewish spark, even though it has not yet reached the indigenous Sri Lankan Jewish community.

In 2005, a Chabad House was established in Colombo, the capital city, led by Rabbi Mendy Kromby, who endeavored to connect with local Jews, though faced challenges. "After years of searching, I have come to the conclusion that there are no original Sri Lankan Jews. I found only three Sri Lankans who converted abroad," Rabbi Kromby shared. The current Shaliakh, Rabbi Shneor Meidanchik, has taken over the role and focuses on serving Israeli tourists and Jewish businesspeople in Colombo. The Chabad House features a kosher restaurant, a mikveh, and Torah classes. Nevertheless, assembling a minyan for prayer, even on Shabbat, proves challenging, contingent on the number of tourists present each week.

In recent years, Rabbi Roni Arad has expanded the reach of Chabad Houses, establishing two near popular surfing beaches frequented by Israelis. One is located on the southern coast in Hikkaduwa, while the other graces Arugam Bay on Sri Lanka's eastern coast. These Chabad Houses experience increased activity during surfing seasons, hosting vibrant prayer services, Shabbat meals, and more.

Ahangama, situated in southern Sri Lanka, has evolved into a quasi "Israeli settlement." Post-army service, young Israelis have chosen to settle there for extended periods, establishing diverse businesses catering to Israeli tourists. This unique enclave boasts a kosher restaurant, a hotel managed by Israelis, boutique accommodations, a surfing club, a yoga club, and other services designed with a distinctly Hebrew flair.

Given the absence of traditional Jewish community structures akin to those in Europe, Mr. Saar Shapira, an Israeli businessman residing in Colombo for approximately a decade, assumed personal responsibility. Four years ago, he founded the "Jewish Federation of Sri Lanka," boasting around fifty permanent residents as members, in addition to hundreds of Jewish merchants who visit Sri Lanka periodically. Rabbi Doron Halevi serves as the federation's rabbi. The organization actively represents the Jewish community to local and international authorities, tending to various needs, including visiting the sick and locating and restoring Jewish graves.

Officially recognized by the Sri Lankan government as the representative body for the Jewish minority, the Jewish Federation has concentrated its efforts on discovering and restoring Jewish graves in Colombo's general cemetery in Borella, specifically in the 8th quarter. To date, nine Jewish graves have been unearthed, and the Federation diligently refurbishes their conditions, conducting prayer services and reciting Kaddish near the graves.

Notably, the Jewish Federation of Sri Lanka is a member of the World Jewish Congress and actively participates in the Euro-Asian Jewish Congress. While Federation members engage in Jewish prayers and events, Saar Shapira emphasizes their collaboration with Chabad rather than competition. "We cooperate in organizing religious ceremonies such as lighting the Hanukkah menorah and the Passover Seder, in which our members also participate."

The evolving Jewish landscape in Sri Lanka over the last two decades aligns with the prophetic words of Zechariah: "Thus says the Lord of hosts: Old men and old women shall again sit in the streets of Jerusalem, each with staff in hand because of great age." (Zechariah 8:4). In this context, "Colombo" can be substituted for "Jerusalem." It remains premature to pass definitive judgments on this unfolding historical process.

Photos courtesy of the Sri Lankan Embassy in Israel and the Sri Lanka Tourism Office.