In the heart of Tashkent, the capital city of Uzbekistan, a remarkable custom unfolds on the eve of Yom Kippur, a practice that reflects the deep-rooted traditions of the Jewish community. Here, the Gabay synagogue official, takes center stage at the entrance, brandishing a whip crafted from strips of donkey and ox skin. As congregants enter, the Gabay passes the whip to each person, allowing them to gently strike their own back and shoulders. This age-old ritual is a symbolic act inspired by the verse "An ox knew his buyer and a donkey his owner's manger. Israel did not know, my people did not observe" (Isaiah Chapter 43). Through this practice, the Jewish community in Tashkent seeks to cleanse their souls, preparing themselves for the sacred Day of Atonement, Yom Kippur, and only then can they embark on "TefilaZackah."       i

Not only does this unique tradition set the Jews of Tashkent apart, but they also distinguish themselves by their annual pilgrimage to the cemeteries. While most Jews visit the graves of their ancestors on Rosh Hashana's Eve, the Jewish community in Tashkent upholds this tradition on Tisha Be'av, paying their respects to their forebears in a poignant and heartfelt manner

These cherished customs draw our attention to Tashkent, a modern city that stands as the capital of Uzbekistan. With a population of 2.5 million, it reigns as the largest metropolis in post-Soviet Central Asia. Traditionally, Tashkent served as the primary gateway for travelers from Israel, with flights originating there. However, recently the Qanot Shark airline has launched direct flights from Tel Aviv to Samarkand, offering alternative routes for tourists

Tashkent's affluence can be traced back to World War II, when Soviet military industries were relocated to the city after German planes targeted heavy industry and food factories. Tashkent emerged as a sanctuary, safeguarding the war effort from aerial assaults. Additionally, the city hosted military hospitals and served as a hub for ambulance trains carrying wounded soldiers. Remarkably, many of the factory managers and medical practitioners at the time were Jewish. Monuments honoring these brave Jewish doctors from the wartime era can still be seen throughout the city today

Tashkent's appeal for tourists may pale in comparison to the awe-inspiring beauty of Samarkand and Bukhara, with their historic landmarks like Registan Square and the Kalyan Tower. However, the city has its own unique charm. In 1966, Tashkent endured a devastating earthquake that razed much of the historical architecture. Moscow orchestrated a massive reconstruction effort, transforming the city into a showcase of modern Soviet design. Tashkent now boasts broad avenues, verdant parks, and tree-lined boulevards that add to its pristine, inviting ambiance

While some might contend that Tashkent offers little in terms of tourist attractions, the truth lies somewhere in between. Certainly, Tashkent lacks the historical grandeur of Samarkand and Bukhara, yet it still offers a host of intriguing sights for visitors. Here are some highlights you should explore during your stay in Tashkent:      i

Hazrat Imam Complex

This religious complex, once the spiritual center of Tashkent, is encircled by towering 50-meter minarets. The Teleshaayakh Mosque, an elegant edifice, takes center stage, while the unassuming Barak Khan Madrasa houses the oldest Quran written on parchment. The sacred manuscript rests on a black marble table enclosed in a glass cabinet. Visitors are asked to remove their shoes on entering the room as a sign of respect. The adjacent room contains copies of the Quran in 30 different languages, including Hebrew

As the largest madrasa in Tashkent, this historical gem showcases superb Islamic architecture, offering a glimpse into the region's rich heritage

Chorsu Bazaar

 For Israelis, the bustling market inside an immense domed structure is a captivating attraction. The dome, adorned with blue ceramic tiles, provides acoustics that soften the voices of the vendors. Inside, a wide array of food products is on display, making it a must-visit for tourists. Meat and sausage stalls share the central space with homemade cheese vendors, and the aromatic blend of these stalls creates an intoxicating atmosphere. The outer sections of the market feature fruit and vegetable stands, as well as stalls offering a variety of pickles, each with its own delightful scent. Notably, all these delectable items are prepared in home kitchens, not factories. And don't miss the chance to savor the enormous, incredibly sweet melons that are larger than watermelons

In conclusion, Tashkent may not have the same historical splendor as its Uzbek counterparts, but its distinctive traditions, modern charm, and intriguing sites beckon curious travelers to explore its unique character

Emir Timur Museum

In the heart of Tashkent, the Amir Timur Museum pays homage to a legendary figure in Uzbek history. Amir Timur, often hailed as the national hero of the Uzbeks, played a pivotal role in shaping the nation during the 15th century, carving out a formidable empire that stretched from India to the Mediterranean Sea. He is revered as the founding father of the Uzbek nation

While my companions explored the vibrant Chorsu Bazaar, I embarked on a journey to delve into the life and times of Amir Timur at his eponymous museum. Within its hallowed halls, visitors are greeted with a compelling array of artifacts and exhibits, offering a glimpse into the life of this iconic leader. The museum showcases a gallery of paintings depicting Amir Timur and houses his personal belongings, providing a tangible link to his legacy. Among the treasures, a copy of the Quran graces the museum, alongside intricate models of Uzbekistan's most significant mosques. The museum's inner dome gleams with gold, a beacon of history and culture. The external architecture mimics the iconic winter hats worn by Uzbek warriors, a fitting tribute to a legendary ruler

Subterranean Wonders: Tashkent's Mesmerizing Metro Stations

Beneath the bustling streets of Tashkent lies a hidden gem that captivates and transports travelers to a world of unparalleled beauty—the city's metro stations. Often likened to living museums, these underground marvels rival even the renowned Moscow subway system, boasting artistic grandeur that has largely remained a well-kept secret. These stations are a testament to a bygone era, shrouded in mystery until 2018, when the ban on photography was lifted from what was intended to be a network of nuclear shelters during the Cold War

Each station unveils a unique theme, creating an immersive experience for commuters and visitors alike. Take, for example, the Elisher Naboi station, a tribute to the national author of Uzbekistan. Here, mosaics adorning the walls and ceilings draw inspiration from Naboi's literary masterpieces, inviting travelers to delve into the world of his words

Venture to the cotton-themed station, a nod to the once-dominant crop of the Tashkent region. Its walls come alive with mosaics resembling cotton bolls, and the station's chandeliers mirror the delicate leaves of cotton just before harvesting, an artful homage to the city's agricultural heritage

The Cosmonaut station, on the other hand, offers a celestial journey into space-inspired design. Its deep blue walls and roof emulate the endless expanse of the sky, while large circular portraits of celebrated cosmonauts grace the station, serving as a reminder of humanity's quest for the stars

Many Tashkent locals and tour guides suggest that a visit to the city's metro stations is a reason in itself to travel to Tashkent, and it's an adventure that won't break the bank—the cost of a day pass is a mere 15 cents. So, next time you find yourself in Tashkent, consider exploring this subterranean world, where art and history are seamlessly woven into the fabric of daily life

Statue of Emir Timur

Tashkent's main square, aptly named after Emir Timur, pays tribute to this esteemed figure. At the square's epicenter stands a magnificent bronze statue, an awe-inspiring 7-meter-tall equestrian portrayal of Emir Timur. Encircled by lush gardens, this monument serves as a beacon of Uzbekistan's history and pride. In the backdrop, the imposing "Uzbekistan Hotel" stands, a Soviet-style architectural marvel boasting over 250 rooms spread across 17 floors. It's said that the higher rooms on this edifice provide the most breathtaking views of Tashkent

Beit Menachem Synagogue

Tashkent's Jewish community, once thriving in a neighborhood known as "Machala," has witnessed a transformative journey. While tens of thousands of Jews once called this place home, most embarked on a new path to Israel during the opening of the USSR in the 1970s. Today, a mere 112 Jewish residents remain in Tashkent, finding solace and unity in the Beit Menachem synagogue at the city's heart. This venue, akin to a Chabad house, hosts a visiting Rabbi during holidays and special events. Dimitri Beckman fills in during the Rabbi's absence

Beit Menachem holds daily minyan for morning and evening prayers, offering a place of worship and a sense of community. After the morning prayer, I saw seven elders deep in the study of the Chumash, with one still adorned with his Tefillin. The synagogue complex also boasts a spacious hall for sanctifications and events, as well as a well-equipped kitchen offering kosher cuisine

The synagogue's captivating Jewish museum, nestled behind the prayer hall and adjoining the women's section, houses an impressive array of relics. Embroidered Bukhari-style coat frills, some centuries old, inside grace glass cabinets. A wedding suit intricately embroidered with gold threads forms the Star of David and the seven-candled Menorah—an exquisite sight to behold. Another room showcases an assortment of sacred items, including shofars, scrolls, and sacred utensils

Of particular note is a wooden device ("stander") used during prayer, reminiscent of the stands for the Quran among Muslims. Here, Sidurim are placed during prayer

We can see holy Jewish books hidden within secular school textbooks for mathematics and physics. This ingenious measure was taken during the Soviet era, as praying and Torah study were forbidden. By concealing sacred texts within the covers of everyday books, the Jewish community of Tashkent protected their traditions from prying eyes, be they from the KGB or curious neighbors

   

Notably, a Yiddish biography of Stalin finds its place within the museum, a testament to the diverse narratives that have intertwined within this vibrant community

The Independence Square

The heart of Tashkent pulsates with Independence Square, formerly known as "Lenin Square" during the Soviet era. The square's grandeur is marked by expansive pools graced with water fountains. It features 16 stately marble columns connected by a bridge adorned with statues of storks, a symbol of peace. The square's centerpiece is the independence monument, guarded by a statue of a woman cradling a child, a poignant representation of the homeland

Surrounded by a grove of trees, the square houses a monument dedicated to those who fell in World War II. A sunken marble pool at the center perpetually houses a burning flame. Nearby, a colossal statue of a bereaved mother weeping for her fallen sons stands as a solemn reminder of the sacrifices made in wartime

The square's flanks showcase two parallel sculptures, each bearing niches dedicated to Uzbekistan's 40 regions. Copper plates line in these niches, allowing visitors to flip through them like a book. Each bearing the names of soldiers who perished in battle. In total, the names of 265,000 fallen soldiers are inscribed here, with an additional 35,000 listed as missing, a solemn testament to the enduring impact of war on the nation

 All You Need is… Plov

In the realm of Uzbek cuisine, Plov reigns supreme as the national dish. This hearty meal is prepared in massive Kazan qozon, enormous bowls resembling the diameter of a tractor wheel. These vessels are placed within Oychuk ovens, where a crackling fire burns below. Rice mingles with tender chunks of beef and lamb, as carrot and onion slices, alongside an array of spices, transform this dish into a flavor-packed delight. Hundreds of plov servings are lovingly crafted within these colossal pots, gracing the tables of restaurants and sidewalk vendors alike. It offers a spectacle of epic proportions. Those with a taste for adventure can even savor a version made with horse meat. While I couldn't enjoy this culinary masterpiece because it isn't kosher, I just seat with my friend and sang for them "All you need is… Plov".    i

Tashkent's intriguing facets reflect a city that stands at the crossroads of history, culture, and cuisine. From its grand squares to its heritage museums and culinary delights, this metropolis boasts a rich tapestry of experiences, all waiting to be discovered

The TV Tower

In the heart of Tashkent, an architectural giant proudly stands, none other than the illustrious TV Tower. With its colossal stature soaring to a height of 375 meters, this landmark secures the 11th spot on the global list of towering wonders. Ascend to the sixth floor, and you'll find an observation deck that offers an unrivaled panoramic view of the city. But it doesn't end there; a mere level above, on the seventh floor, an inviting restaurant awaits, where you can savor a meal or relish a cup of beer while soaking in the breathtaking surroundings. An essential tip for visitors: Be sure to have your passport handy at the entrance for an experience that will leave you on cloud nine

Magic City: Where Imagination Meets Reality

For families visiting Tashkent with kids, a real gem awaits – the enchanting Magic City amusement park, a true Uzbek rendition of Disneyland. Just 300 meters from the entrance, you'll encounter a mesmerizing pool framed by a building that seems plucked from the pages of a Walt Disney painting. Inside, a captivating world unfolds, featuring Dutch streets reminiscent of charming villages, houses styled after the Tower of London, Swiss-inspired cottages, Luxor palaces reminiscent of Egypt, and homes that evoke the architectural spirit of Moscow

What sets these structures apart is their purpose, not for residential, but for business. Within these enchanting edifices, you'll discover an array of restaurants, ice cream parlors, cafes, toy and souvenir shops, and upscale boutiques. The Luxor house even houses a thrilling amusement park, while another area showcases a mesmerizing aquarium. With its diverse offerings, Magic City promises an entire day of adventure and wonder for the entire family

Judaism in Tashkent

Tashkent's Jewish community is a captivating tapestry woven from two distinct threads- the "Bukharim" and the "Ashkenazim". The Bukharim are considered privileged locals with a legacy spanning generations, coexist with the Ashkenazim, who sought refuge from Tsarist-era pogroms in Russia during the late 19th century. While initially a minority within the community, the Ashkenazim's presence underwent a significant transformation during World War II. This period saw the mass migration of Jewish refugees from Poland and Lithuania to northern Russia, where they faced the harrowing trials of hunger, bitter winters, and epidemics. These trying times found literary expression in the best-selling book "Tashkent the City of Bread", which chronicled the types of bread that remained abundant in Tashkent, despite the famine that gripped the region. In search of hope, tens of thousands of Polish refugees made their way south to Tashkent, where many of the Hasidic refugees found solace in the 'Stari-Gord' (Old City) area. This influx transformed the Ashkenazim into the prevailing majority of Tashkent's Jewish community, while the local Bukhari community, overwhelmed by the sudden influx, grappled with hunger and disease, prompting many to continue their migration to Samarkand

Tashkent's young Jews, too, answered the call of duty during World War II, joining the Red Army fight against the Nazis. Tragically, approximately ten thousand of them paid the ultimate price on the battlefield, resulting in a profound loss for the Jewish community. A generation of sons forever remembered as heroes. Uzbek Jews today honor their memory by tending to their graves and tombstones, elevating them to the status of a national pantheon

In the past, Tashkent's Jewish community boasted around 50,000 members, the majority of whom opted to emigrate to Israel or the United States after the Soviet Union's gates were flung open in the 1970s. Recognized for their unwavering Zionist commitment, many of them had already ventured to Israel in the 19th century, contributing significantly to the establishment of "The Bukharim neighborhood" in Jerusalem, an enduring legacy etched into the annals of history

The author was a guest of the Ministry of Tourism of Uzbekistan and the airline Qanot Shark