Samarkand stands as one of the most captivating cities in Uzbekistan, and indeed, the entire world. Its enduring allure makes it a top-tier tourist destination, with an estimated 7 million visitors expected this year. Adding to its accessibility, QANOT SHARK Airlines recently inaugurated a direct route from Tel Aviv to Samarkand

The city boasts approximately 500 accommodation options, including hotels, hostels, and bed and breakfasts

As the second-largest city in Uzbekistan, Samarkand is home to a population of 650,000, steeped in a history that spans two millennia, dating back to Roman times. Remarkably, it has preserved ancient architectural wonders, rendering it an internationally acclaimed tourist destination with numerous UNESCO-recognized heritage sites. What struck me most during my visit was the city's impeccable cleanliness. Litter is conspicuously absent from its streets and gardens, imparting a sense of pristine elegance often missing in our urban centers

For those contemplating a journey to Uzbekistan, I recommend dedicating at least two days to exploring my personal favorites within Samarkand

1 Registan Square

Nestled in the heart of the city, Registan Square, meaning "place of the sand," was the core of the old city. Encircled by three splendid madrassas that face the central square, this area brims with history and architectural grandeur. The term "madrasa" in Arabic derived from the Hebrew word "Beit Midrash," signifies a place of study. Constructed between the 15th and 17th centuries, the madrassas exhibit a shared exterior adorned with exquisite blue, light blue, and white tiles arranged in intricate geometric patterns on a background of terracotta bricks. Each madrasa reveals a distinct interior, with domes adorned in bright blue, white, and rosettes. An observation deck grants a panoramic view of Registan Square, with Madrasa Ulugh Beg on the left, Madrasa Sher-Dor on the right, and Madrasa Tilia-Kori in the center

Tilia-Kori's central hall, a mosque, is resplendent with gilded interior walls and a dome. The 'Mihrab' alcove, facing Mecca, features a striking golgen Star of David. Ulugh Beg's madrasa holds the distinction of being one of the world's oldest universities, while the "Lion School" in front is associated with an Afghan carpet workshop. Madrasa Sher Dor, or the "Madrasa of the Lions," derives its name from the mosaic adorning its entrance gate, known as 'Tiglo

A return visit to Registan Square at night is a must, as the lighting bestows a sacred ambiance to the enchanting locale

Moreover, Registan Square harbors a Jewish connection also. Legend has it that the Emir of the Bukhara Emirate once had a Jewish advisor. This advisor questioned the necessity of providing aid to Samarkand, as the Zarafshan River would continue to flow without such assistance. The emir heeded this advice and terminated financial support to Samarkand. In retaliation, Samarkand's rulers dispatched an assassination squad to eliminate the advisor. When they arrived at his residence, the advisor offered to teach them engineering and architectural secrets for building enduring minarets and structures if they spared his life. After three months of instruction, the assassins returned to kill him. On this occasion, the Jewish advisor promised to impart the secrets of the unchanging blue ceramics that will never fade. Following their training, he attempted to flee, but they pursued and ultimately killed him. His legacy lives on through the blue ceramic-clad buildings in Registan Square

2. Gur-e-Amir Mausoleums

The revered figure in Uzbek history, Timur Lang (the Lame), who in the 15th century conquered 27 nations and transformed Uzbekistan into an empire, rests within the mausoleum he erected for his beloved grandson. Two years later, Timur himself was interred beside them. He also commenced the construction of a mausoleum for himself in his hometown but passed away in Samarkand during winter, making it impossible to transport his body due to heavy snowfall. Consequently, he joined his grandson in the same mausoleum

This magnificent structure served as an inspiration for the Taj Mahal in India. Its exterior walls are bedecked with captivating mosaics in various shades of blue and light blue, adorned with arabesques and verses from the Quran. The central structure was once larger than its current state, with only the foundations remaining. Twin minarets rise on either side, and a dome with 64 ribs crowns the building, symbolizing the years of Muhammad's life

Within its hallowed walls, opulence reigns. The walls and ceiling gleam with gold, culminating in a vast dome of pure gold. A sight to behold, the mausoleum houses several tombstones, with Timur Lang's black tombstone at the center, surrounded by those of his progeny. The historical resonance is palpable as one makes physical contact with these ancient relics. Beneath the floor lies a burial cave, the final resting place of their remains. Nighttime visits are also highly recommended to bask in the enchanting illumination

An enduring legend cautions against disturbing the emir's final rest. In 1941, Russian historians opened Timur Lang's grave to measure his bones and determine if his lameness was factual. Local Uzbeks protested, but their pleas fell on deaf ears in Moscow. The very next day, Germany launched "Operation Barbarossa" to invade Russia, and the Uzbeks lamented, "We told you so!"         i

3. Statue of Emir Timur

Dominating the central square is a towering bronze statue of Timur Lang. From this vantage point, Timur embarked on his extensive campaign of conquest, which spanned 27 countries from the Mediterranean Sea to India, giving rise to the Uzbek Empire. He chose Samarkand as his capital and is still revered as the father of the nation today. Following his demise in 1405, his far-reaching empire crumbled, and the region fragmented into principalities under his descendants. In the 15th century, Uzbek tribes seized control of the region, establishing the emirates of Bukhara, Khiva, and Kokand

4. Bibi Khanum Mosque

Just as we have a "Bibi," Samarkand boasts the grand "Bibi Hanum" mosque. This name is, of course, not linked to Binyamin Netanyahu, but rather pays homage to Amir Timur's most cherished wife among his many. The origin of the name comes with two versions. One narrates that during Timur Lang's campaign to conquer India, his wife ordered the mosque's construction in anticipation of his victorious return. The alternative version credits Timur himself with erecting the mosque in honor of his beloved spouse. For centuries, this mosque reigned as the largest in Asia, capable of accommodating up to 10,000 worshipers. Locals extolled it with the saying, "Only the dome of the sky can rival Bibi Khanum's dome, and only the Milky Way can compare to its arches."           i

5. The Tomb of the Prophet Daniel

Nestled along the riverbank, one encounters a tomb attributed to the revered prophet Daniel. A local legend suggests that only a fragment of the prophet's remains lies here, specifically a leg. Timur Lang, the conqueror, faced a daunting task in subduing Persia. He was informed that it was the formidable spiritual power of Daniel's resting place in Shushan city that safeguarded the Persians. Consequently, Timur ordered the excavation of Daniel's grave, intending to transfer the remains to Samarkand. Before the entire grave could be unearthed, the sun's rays shone, compelling them to extract only the tibia and a leg, which they swiftly transported back to Samarkand

Subsequent battles fought by Timur's army were won with the purported aid of Daniel's relics. Timur commanded a respected burial and the construction of a "grand and imposing" tomb, concealing the fact that only a single leg was interred. However, the tomb's builder misinterpreted "grand" as "large" and thus erected an 18-meter long tombstone. Over time, the site also acquired significance for Muslims

Near Daniel's resting place, a seedling brought from Persia was planted alongside Daniel's remains, which grew into the "Wishing Tree." Residents would hang colorful cloth handkerchiefs on its withered branches and make wishes. Those whose wishes were fulfilled were obligated to offer a sacrifice of a ram, distributing its meat to the less fortunate, before untying the handkerchief from the tree

In 1993, the tree withered, and hanging fabrics on it was prohibited. Three years later, the tree miraculously rejuvenated, purportedly due to the prayers of a Russian monk

6. Gumbaz Synagogue

Jews have a deep-rooted history in Samarkand, predating Muslims, Mongols, and Uzbeks by two millennia. According to one theory, it was the Jews who bestowed the city with its name, meaning "Samaria, the city". A vibrant Jewish community, numbering around 15,000, once thrived here, primarily residing in the "Machala" Jewish quarter. Following the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, nearly all community members emigrated to Israel, leaving only seven Jewish families behind

Of the numerous synagogues that graced the city, only two remain active. The ancient "Gumbaz" synagogue, named for its central dome painted in light blue, features wood-adorned walls embellished with intricate engravings up to two meters in height. Above them, stone reliefs, some gilded, adorn the synagogue. The Holy Ark occupies a distinctive corner position on the front wall, while most benches are arranged with their backs to the wall

 7. Ulugh Beg Observatory

Ulugh Beg, the grandson of Timur Lang, and also a Sultan, starkly contrasted with his infamous grandfather, being a proponent of peace and education. He devoted his life to the sciences of mathematics and astronomy, culminating in the construction of a sophisticated observatory in 1428. This observatory was among the most advanced in the Muslim world, featuring a three-story circular design with a diameter exceeding 40 meters, and polished glass windows of varying thickness and styles

Inside the observatory, a parabolic rail stretched from floor to ceiling, bearing a wheeled mirror aimed through a special window in the sloping roof. Ulugh Beg conducted significant astronomical calculations, determining sunrise times, solar and lunar eclipses, the length of the year, and Earth's axial tilt. Astonishingly, his calculations proved to be exceptionally accurate compared to contemporary calculations, differing by a mere 6 seconds in the solar cycle. This feat is particularly remarkable since it occurred two centuries prior to the invention of the first telescope and four centuries preceding the launch of the Hubble satellite telescope

   

In 1908, archaeologists unearthed the observatory's lower mirror rail section and constructed a protective structure above it. Adjacent to it, a museum now educates visitors about Ulugh Beg and the profound significance of his discoveries. At the base of the hill stands a statue of Ulugh Beg, marking the commencement of a paved pathway leading to the observatory

8. New Samarkand Tourism Center

In 2019, Samarkand welcomed a sprawling tourist center on a 2,600-dunam site, encompassing both luxurious and more modest hotels, with a combined total of 2,500 beds. The center also features a convention center and an expo boasting 20 halls capable of accommodating 3,500 visitors

A highlight of this center is the "New Old City," occupying 110 dunams. A circular water canal graces the landscape, surrounded by pedestrian walkways and structures designed in Samarkand's ancient architectural style, complete with mosaic-clad exterior walls, minarets, and blue and green domes. These buildings house restaurants and boutique shops specializing in clothing and footwear. The "New Old City" has swiftly transformed into an entertainment hub, attracting young people and local families who converge here for evenings and weekends

9. The Jewish Cemetery

The Jewish cemetery comprises two distinct sections, with a Bukhari area and an Ashkenazi area. As visitors enter, a memorial stone bears the engraved names of numerous Jewish soldiers from the Russian army who perished in World War II, alongside a towering statue of a mourning mother

The Bukhari section boasts meticulous upkeep, with paved paths, well-maintained lawns, and ornamental trees offering shaded respite amid tombstones crafted from black marble, often featuring engraved portraits of the deceased. Benches are thoughtfully placed along the paths. Contrastingly, the Ashkenazi section, commencing about 200 meters from the gate, lacks paths, lawns, and trees. Here, simple stone tombstones, their inscriptions often weathered, dot an arid and parched terrain

10. Siyob Bazaar 

Siyob Bazaar reigns supreme as the foremost market in Samarkand, offering a wealth of goods from fresh produce and clothing to numerous pharmacies and souvenir vendors. Certain products in the market merit particular attention. Near the entrance, melon and watermelon stalls abound, showcasing particularly oversized melons with a remarkably sweet taste that is well worth savoring

Visitors should also seek out and sample the dried yogurt balls, which bear a resemblance to Uzbek "cracks." These yogurt balls vary in size, from small marbles to ping pong balls, and feature diverse flavors encompassing both saltiness and spiciness

Lastly, don't overlook the halva stalls that extend samples of pistachio or chocolate and honey-flavored halva. An absolute must-try for culinary enthusiasts

The author's travel experiences were made possible through the kind arrangements of the Embassy of Uzbekistan in Israel and the Ministry of Tourism of Uzbekistan