In 2022, UNESCO bestowed the honor of World Heritage Site upon the ShUM communities in Germany, recognizing their status as the cradle of Jewish culture in Europe. The term "ShUM" derives from a Hebrew acronym, representing the towns of Shpeira, Wermeiza, and Magenza (known today as Speyer, Worms, and Mainz). Nearly a millennium ago, these cities held a position of profound significance as the "Jerusalem on the Rhine."    i

In an admirable endeavor, the German government is investing in the restoration of the remnants of ShUM's grandeur while publishing guidebooks to shed light on their historical significance. As part of this ambitious project, visitors can now find Hebrew signs and flags marking the ShUM communities

Despite being a favored destination for many Israelis, cities such as Berlin, Frankfurt, and the Black Forest have often overshadowed the ShUM cities. This imbalance in recognition is likely due to the lack of awareness about ShUM's heritage and historical importance. To bridge this gap, the German Tourist Bureau in Israel has embarked on a mission to promote ShUM communities as an essential tourist destination

So, what makes ShUM so pivotal to us? In the 11th and 12th centuries, these towns served as the spiritual epicenter of the Jewish world. Notable ShUM rabbis, often referred to as "Ba'aley HaTosfot", contributed commentaries that have endured as essential companions to the Talmud for centuries. ShUM's significance in its time paralleled Sura and Pumbedita during the Talmudic era, as well as Girona and Córdoba in Spain's golden age. These communities hosted eminent Torah scholars who served as judges in the Jewish supreme court and operated influential yeshivas

The "ShUM Regulations," a canonical codex of Judaism, is testament to their importance. Two pivotal world conferences, led by Rabenu Tam and the Rabbis of the Tosfot, were held in Magenza in 1196 and 1220. During these gatherings, laws were established to resolve disputes among Jews and address communal issues. Some of the ShUM regulations remain integral to Halacha (Jewish law) to this day

The cultural wealth cultivated in the ShUM communities was abruptly disrupted by the First Crusade in 1096. Crusaders passed through ShUM and demanded Jewish conversion to Christianity. In the face of this ultimatum, the Jews chose martyrdom, with nearly half of their population slaughtered. This event left an indelible mark on Jewish history, as rabbis in other communities feared the loss of Jewish culture worldwide

Today, the German government is actively involved in preserving the memory of ShUM. Here, we embark on a journey through these remarkable ShUM cities, where echoes of a bygone era resonate in the remnants of history:    i

(Mainz (Magenza

Our journey commences in Mainz, located about 45 kilometers south of Frankfurt. From a Jewish perspective, Mainz takes precedence in the ShUM trio. However, from a tourist standpoint, it offers the least to explore

Mainz boasts the Yeshiva of "Lothir Sages," established in 918 by Rabbi Moshe ben Colonimus. Rabbi Gershom Meor HaGola, aptly named "the light of the diaspora," presided over this influential yeshiva. It was here that he authored the groundbreaking "Cherem DeRabenu Gershom", a historical milestone prohibiting bigamy, involuntary divorce, and unauthorized letter reading. This edict marked a pioneering feminist and egalitarian law worldwide

Rabbi Amnon of Magenza composed the central poem of Yom Kippur, "Unetane Tokef," around 1020. Even the eminent Rashi studied at the Magenza Yeshiva for six years from 1060, alongside some of the Tosfot Rabbis. While the yeshiva's physical structure has vanished, you can still pay your respects at the Jewish cemetery where their final resting places await

The gravestones of Rabbi Gershom (above), and Rabbi Yaakov ben Yakar (below

In the 11th century, the horrors of the Crusade reached Mainz, culminating in a tragic chapter in Jewish history. When faced with the choice of converting to Christianity or death, the Jews valiantly chose martyrdom, preserving their honor and the sanctity of God's name

Before the Holocaust, Mainz's Jewish community comprised 2,700 members, with the magnificent "Neustadt Synagogue" as the centerpiece of their spiritual life

On Kristallnacht, the synagogues were burned, and most of the Jews left the city, and about 1,400 of those who remained were murdered in the Holocaust. When the American army occupied Mainz, only 61 Jews were found there. A few survivors returned from the Nazi camps, and re-established the community

In 2010, a modern synagogue was inaugurated on the ruins of the "Neustadt" synagogue that was destroyed on Kristallnacht. The architect Manuel Hertz decided that the new synagogue must look very different from its shape before the Holocaust. That's why it has no right angle and no rounded line, but everything is sharp and diagonal. Architecture enthusiasts, Jewish and non-Jewish, come from all over the world to see the avant-garde and special design of the 'Meor HaGola' synagogue

A visit to the Mainz National Museum allows you to view Jewish sacred artifacts, including Shofars, Torah bells, Kiddush cups, and ancient gravestones from the 11th-12th centuries, providing an opportunity to immerse yourself in the rich tapestry of Jewish history

In Mainz there is a Jewish cemetery, one of the oldest in the world. Down the hill there are impressive tombstones from the last centuries, and up the hill there are old tombstones, some of which are extremely important. The most famous tombstone is that of Rabbenu Gershom Meor HaGola, from the year 1028. In one of the rows below, there are also tombstones of Rabbi Yaakov ben Yakar, who was Rashi's rabbi. And also the tombstone of Rabbi Meshulam ben Kolonimus, who killed himself in the wildfires, and other interesting graves

A visit to the cemetery must be coordinated in advance. Next to the cemetery's fence, the German began to build a visitor's center where the history of the cemetery and the ShUM communities will be presented

(Worms (Wermeiza

Next, our journey leads us to Worms, situated approximately 30 kilometers south of Mainz. Worms boasts a compelling attraction for ShUM pilgrims: the "Rashi House," established in 1075 on the Jewish street, known as Judengasse

Rashi, arguably the most influential rabbi in Jewish history, gained recognition for his comprehensive commentaries on the Bible and Talmud. In 1066, Rashi moved from the Magenza yeshiva to study at the Wermeiza yeshiva, whose Beyt Midrash is adjacent to the synagogue today. The head of the Wermeiza yeshiva was Rabbi Yaacob ben Yakar, whom Rashi called "My admired teacher."          i

The entrance to the beit midrash is through the synagogue. The temporary entrance to the synagogue is through the Ezrat Nashim (women's section), because the main entrance is closed for the danger of a collapse. A few months ago, a crack was discovered that crosses the wall from the entrance door to the roof, and the renovations are still ongoing

The building of the synagogue and its contents stood for about 850 years until the Holocaust. On Kristallnacht, the synagogue burned down, and what remained was destroyed later by Allied bombings in World War II. The bricks remained in place, and were used to restore the synagogue. The interior of the synagogue was also renovated and restored. The Torah Ark and the Bima reading platform were made of stone, and during the renovation, the original stones were inserted

Today, no prayers are held at the Rashi's House. We sit down in reverence on one of the benches, and think about the fact that for 700 years, the same prayers and the same wording were prayed here exactly as we pray today. This enhances the feeling of the chain of generations, and the fact that we are part of a mighty and powerful Judaism

In the courtyard of the synagogue to the south is an ancient Mikveh named after Rashi. Recently it has been closed to visitors due to archaeological excavations. Behind the synagogue is a Jewish museum, most of which is dedicated to Rashi

In the narrow small alley leading to the museum we can see "Rashi's dent", on the outer wall of the women's section of the synagogue. On the wall there is a niche about the height of a person and about one and a half meters wide. There's a legend that Rashi's mother walked here when she was pregnant carrying Rashi as still just a fetus. A cavalry regiment came riding wildly and almost ran her over. Then a miracle happened that created a small dent in the wall, into which she entered and was saved

A nice fairy tale, but it is a myth that did not happen in reality, because Rashi's mother was never in Worms. Her whole life was in the city of Troyes in the north of France, where she gave birth and raised Rashi, and where he returned after finishing his studies at the yeshiva in Wermeisa. In Troyes there is a hole in a wall in the alley of cats near the city hall, which is attributed to this story. Someone dressed up the story about Wermiza

Rashi's name appears on many sites in Wermeiza, probably without justification. We must remember that during the years that Rashi lived here in the 11th century, he was just an ordinary 17 years old student in the yeshiva. Rashi rose to prominence only after he returned to his hometown of Troyes, where he wrote his books. Only in the 18th century, his name begin to be attached to all kinds of houses and sites in Worms

One of the absurdities is in the "Rashi Bridge" which was built hundreds of years after his death. Worms was surrounded by a wall, many parts of which have been preserved to this day. It had the "Jews' Gate" for the passage from the Jews' Street to the Rhine River, but today this gate is blocked by residential buildings.During first world war they broke a passage through the wall near the Jews Street, and above it they completed the wall with a bridge. Even this new bridge was called the "Rashi's Bridge".         i

The square in front of Rashi's house is now called "Deportation Square". In 1933, the Jewish community of Worms included 1,100 members. In 1942, the Nazis gathered here the 230 Jews who remained in the city, and led them to the train station that transported them to the extermination camp. None of them survived the Holocaust. Today, there is no Jewish community in Worms, although many Jews from the former Soviet Union came here. It is considered a part of the Jewish community of Mainz, which holds a "Kiddush" in the synagogue once a month, and sends a Russian-speaking cantor to Worms who consecrates and prays, and gives Torah Shiurim in Russian

Worms' rich Jewish heritage stands as a testament to resilience, community, and faith in the face of adversity

Worms also houses the Jewish cemetery "Holy Sands," one of the world's oldest Jewish cemeteries outside of Israel. This cemetery is considered a kind of monument to mark 900 years of Jewish life. Jews were buried there from the 11th century to the 20th century. The oldest tombstone is from 1058. Wandering among the 2,500 tombstones and reading the scriptures on them is like a fascinating story about Jewish life. We see tombstones that testify of great wealth, next to tombstones of the poor. We also see styles that are influenced by art trends of Gentiles

Among the 2,500 tombstones, the most significant is the final resting place of the Maharam of Rothenberg, born in Wermeiza. It stands about 25 meters after the gate, on the left side of the path. It is easy to spot even from a distance because of the stones and Bakashot (prayer notes) placed on it, which indicate that it receives many visits. His story resonates today, particularly in discussions surrounding the release of captive prisoners

The story of the Maharam is actual today because of the issue of the captive prisoners. The Maharam was imprisoned in 1286 because he organized Jews from Rothenberg and ShUM communities to immigrate to Eretz Israel, in preparation for welcoming the Messiah. At that time, the Jews were considered the emperor's slaves, and leaving without permission was considered a serious offense of escaping a slave. One of the Jews whistled about the initiative to immigrate to Eretz Israel, and all those involved were imprisoned. Most of them were released for ransom, but in exchange for the Maharam's release the Gentiles demanded a huge sum of 20,000 Marks. The Maharam refused to be paid such sums, and explained his opposition by fearing that the Gentiles would learn that imprisoning Jews could be a profitable business. The Maharam was imprisoned in the Anzieim fortress, until he died in 1293, and years later he was buried here. Nowadays, Israeli rabbis and politicians usually discuss Maharam's words on the issue of the high prices the Palestinians demand in exchange for the release of Israelis

Next to the Maharam grave was buried the rabbi of Frankfurt, Alexander ben Shlomo Vimppen Ziskind. He sold all his possessions to redeem the bones of the Maharam and bring him to burial here

At the edge of the cemetery is the "Valley of the Rabbis" where important rabbis are buried, such as Rabbi Eliyahu Luentz, author of the book "Aderet Shlomo", Rabbi Yair Haim Bachrach, authur of "Havot Yair". Next to them is buried the Maharit, whose tombstone is unusual. All the graves face south, while the Maharit requested in his will to be buried with his face towards Jerusalem, and that no others will be buried next to him. And so they did

On the fence of the cemetery next to the Valley of the Rabbis hangs a stone on which is written "12 of the Parnasim (Leaders) 1096", probably in memory of those killed in the Crusade riots

In the center of Worms there is a large and impressive monument in honor of Martin Luther, who founded the Protestant religion in Worms in 1592

Martin Luther also linked with us. At the beginning of his theological journey, he liked Jews, because he thought they would join his new movement as a substitute for the rejected Catholic religion. When he saw that this is not happening, he became anti-Semitic, and began calling for the murder of Jews and the burning of synagogues. These words of his received a significant echo in the trials held for Nazi criminals after the Holocaust. Many of the murderers claimed to the Protestant judges "I just fulfilled my religious and yours".    i

(Speyer (Speira

Our final stop on the ShUM pilgrimage is Speyer, where the bishop extended an invitation to Jews in 1084, seeking to bolster economic development. In a remarkable show of solidarity, local Christians protected their Jewish neighbors during the Crusades, preventing the massacre of all but 11 Jews who chose martyrdom

The terrible Crusade riots also reached Speira, but its Jews suffered of it less than other communities. Local Christians informed their Jewish neighbors that the Crusaders are planning to massacre the Jews that day, and suggested that they go to Bishop Rudiger, who assured them of their safety. He gave them shelter in his palace, and prevented the Crusaders from entering. During the riots only 11 of the Jews of Speira were murdered, who insisted on staying in the synagogue and finishing the Shaharit and Mussaf of Sabbath morning prayer

In the book "The Old Decrees" it was written in 1097: "And it came to pass on the 8th day of the month of Iyar, on the Sabbath, that the measure of judgment began to come upon us. The city-dwellers rose first to the holy men of the Hasidic in Shpeira, and they consulted about catching them in the synagogue. And when they saw that their advice to take them together was not carried out, they rose up against them and killed eleven souls of them. And when the ruler Johann heard it, he came with a large force and the crowd helped with all his heart, and he put them in the rooms and got them out of their hands."        i

Well, These "rooms" were in the bishop's palace, which is still located on the north side of the Speyer Cathedral

The survivors of the neighboring communities in Magenza and Wermeiza fled to Shpeira, and turned it into an even greater spiritual center. After a few months, the crusaders left Shpeira to continue their murderous journey toward the Land of Israel. So the Jews returned to their homes in the city, and began a construction boom. The Jews also contributed to the construction of a new wing in the Speyer Cathedral, as a token of gratitude for their rescue. With the same architect, they also built a new synagogue in 1104, with motifs such as door jambs and windows identical to those in the cathedral

The ruins of the synagogue and the yeshiva have been preserved to this day, and are the oldest remains of all the synagogues that operated in Europe in the 12th century. It was a large synagogue about 30 meters long and 20 meters wide. On the eastern wall we can clearly see signs of the niche for the Holy Ark, which was blocked with stones of other sizes. There are also remains of the stairs that led to the Ark

The women's section was attached to the synagogue, but separated from it. On the thick wall separating the women's room from the men's hall there were 6 small slits, through which the women could hear the prayer and the reading of the Torah. Two such windows remain to this day. An ancient wooden bench also remains

Among the walls was a blocked passage called the "Yiddish Gate". Opened only during Brit Mila (circumcision ceremonies), so that the new mother and grandmother and mother-in-law can see the circumcision inside the synagogue

In the outer corner of the synagogue was the Shpeira yeshiva. The head of the yeshiva was Rabbi Eliakim ben Meshulam Halevi. Today only the foundation stones on which the columns that held the roof of the yeshiva stood. Among the sages of Shpeira in the Middle Ages were the Talmud commentator Colonimus ben Yitzchak and some of the Tosfot Rabbies

In the same complex is also the mikveh that was built in 1128. It's considered the best preserved medieval Jewish bath in Europe, offering a unique glimpse into Jewish ritual purification practices. We go down to it by many steps to a depth of more than ten meters below the ground. In the middle, there was a dressing room on the side for changing clothes, which is considered rare in medieval mikvehs. The level of the water surface is about the level of the nearby Rhine river, which is connected by a tube with the mikveh. Above the mikvah, a large opening of the "Otzar" (container) that allows rainwater and snow to reach the mikveh in purity

The adjoining Jewish museum displays ancient tombstones from the local Jewish cemetery. Next to the steps leading down to the mikveh stands a Jewish tombstone from 1540. It is part of the display of the Jewish museum in the complex, inside we can see more ancient Jewish tombstones left from the local Jewish cemetery which no longer exists

The main display includes door frames and mezuzahs that were in the synagogue and in Jewish homes in this neighborhood

The town's primary attraction is the "Judenhof" or Jewish Courtyard, where Jewish tourism sites and a Jewish museum are now located. Within this historical setting, you'll find the remnants of the 12th-century synagogue and yeshiva, the oldest of their kind in Europe

Over the years, more synagogues were built in Speyer, but all of them were destroyed in the course of history. On Maximilian Street, the main shopping street that crosses Speyer, the large synagogue was built in 1837 and was active until the Holocaust. On Kristallnacht, the Nazis burned him too. On its ruins was built a large store of 'Kaufhof' chain

On the back wall of the building hangs a sign engraved in German: "The synagogue of the Jewish community in Speyer stood here until it was destroyed by Nazi Germany on Kristallnacht."        i

In the corner of its parking lot behind the department store, a monument was placed in the memory of the synagogue and the local Jewish victims of the Shoah. In the monument we see a kind of black tombstone without text, as if it was dismantled, and on it a "melting" Star of David like the style of Salvador Dali's clocks. On the ground next to the tombstone is a copper plate with the names of Speyer Jews who were sent to the extermination camps. Above the tombstone there is a kind of iron "canopy" in the form of a cage, with openings that represent liberation and freedom

Speyer's commemoration of Jewish history includes the preservation of Maximilian Street, once home to many Jewish-owned businesses. Today Maximilian Street is Speyer's shopping street, and has been so for the past two hundred years. Many of the shops here belonged to Jews. In the 1933 census, there were 539 Jews. Most of them emigrated from the city due to the restrictions of the Nazi regime, and in October 1940 only 51 Jews remained in the city and were sent to the camps. Only 15 of them survived the Holocaust. On the sidewalk in front of some shops on Maximilian Street we see 'stumbling stones' with the names of Jews who were taken to their deaths from the shops in front or from the apartments above them

If we want to pray in Minyan and read the Torah, we'd go to the "Beit Shalom" synagogue that was inaugurated in 2010. In 1996, Jews from the former USSR founded the renewed Jewish community of Speyer. The municipality donated to the Jewish community the area of ​​an abandoned church. The Jews preferred not to use it as a house of prayer, and built a hall for the community center inside it. The front wall of the church was destroyed, and in the yard they built an ultra-modern design synagogue

The architect Jacobi made one of the walls of the women's section out of glass, which faces the city cathedral. This is in recognition of the bishop who saved Jews in pogroms about a thousand years ago. When the synagogue was inaugurated, there were members of the community who did not like the idea of ​​praying toward a church. The dispute was finally resolved by covering the large window with an opaque curtain that hides the cathedral. But some visitors like to move the curtain a little to look at the view

The Jewish community of Speyer currently has about 500 members, about a hundred of whom are residents of Speyer and the rest from surrounding towns and villages. The rabbi of the synagogue and the vicinity is Rabbi David Schwartzov. The head of the community, Mrs. Marina Nikiforova, says that she would be happy to open the synagogue to religious groups who would like to pray or see the beautiful building. In 2011, the synagogue was set on fire, and pages were found there on which were printed: "If you do not leave Palestine in peace, we will not leave you in peace." The flames were quickly extinguished

In this article, I focused only on Jewish heritage sites. But we should know that in each of the ShUM cities there are other general tourist attractions, details and tickets can be obtained at the local tourist information stations

The very few remnants of the heritage of ShUM communities are not proportional to their historical importance. There is not much physicality to be seen there. But there is a lot of spirituality left in the libraries and the treasure of books in yeshivas all over the world. Books written by ShUM rabbis a thousand years ago are still studied today in the Jewish world. Their enormous importance to our heritage justifies going there, at least to breathe the air that our geniuses breathed, smell the smells they knew, and assimilate into the landscape of their lives. And in this atmosphere, open one of the books written there and study it, or read a lament that mentions them, and enjoy a different kind of spiritual tourist experience. After we return from the trip to ShUM, studying the books written there will feel more tangible

While the ShUM communities may lack extensive physical remnants, their enduring significance endures in libraries and treasured texts that resonate across the world. It is a journey through time and history that invites you to breathe the same air and connect with the legacy of these brilliant Jewish minds. ShUM is an invitation to explore the spiritual depths of a rich and vibrant heritage that transcends time

The writer was a guest of the German Tourist Board in Israel