Georgia has reopened to tourism following a decline in global morbidity of Covid19. Before the Covid19 pandemic, 9 million tourists visited every year, which is three times the local population
Levan Giorgadze
Tourism is the largest economic sector in Georgia, and Israel has a place of honor there. We are in third place on the list of countries which the most tourists come from. More than 205,000 Israelis visited Georgia in 2019. This is due to the short distance of only two and a half hours flight from Ben Gurion Airport, and the cheap prices of hotels, public transportation, and restaurants. It has an authentic beauty of simplicity, and a fascinating combination of old and modern
Tbilisi, the capital of the country, is a great destination for travelers who want great pleasure at a small expense. This city has plenty of attractions that no tourist is able to see all in one trip. Here is a list of 50 important tourist sites that are worth seeing there. If we do not see all of them on the first trip, then we will visit them on the second trip (or third or tenth). i
Tbilisi Old Town
Iuri Akopov
Metekhi Bridge
Levan Giorgadze
Tbilisi's old city is totally walkable. Tbilisi was built on the banks of the Mtkvari River, which the locals call "Kura". Over the river stood a bridge also called "The one Hundred Thousand Tortured". When the Persians conquered Tbilisi, they placed pictures of Maria on the floor of the bridge, instructing the locals to step on it and convert to Islam. The stubborn Georgians refused to convert to Islam and to step on the holy image. The Persians announced that whoever converted to Islam would be free, and whoever refused they would cut off his head on this bridge and throw his body into the river. 100,000 Georgians gave their lives for their Christian faith, and in honor of their memory the bridge is called "One Hundred Thousand Tortured". i
Metekhi Church
Down the hill, next to the bridge, we see a large statue of King Gorgasali on his horseback and a church behind it. Here resided the great palace of King Metekhi Dimitrios. Inside the palace estate was also a small church, which was hidden between the other buildings of the place. When the Russians took over Georgia in 1801, they turned the palace buildings into a prison for political opponents of the regime. In 1965 the prison buildings were demolished, but the church was not damaged. The area on which the palace buildings stood was leveled, and today there is a large plaza with an observation post over the old city and the river
In the 13th century, a statue of King Gorgasali was placed at the cliff. King Gorgasali waged many battles against the Persians and won some of them
The Bridge of Peace
A modern pedestrian bridge that connects the old town with the Rike Park on the other bank. The architect sought to connect not only the two banks of the river but also to connect the glorious past with the bright future. The bridge is made up of construction of metal pipes with a concrete surface for walking, and the ceiling has glass panels attached to the pipes. It is an interesting observation point over the city. It is recommended to return to see it at sunset. At night it has a lighting show of masses of small lamps that change colors
The locals also call it "Always Bridge", because its roof reminds them of the shape of the hygienic pad for women made by Always
Europe Square
A minute's walk from the northern end of a Metekhi bridge we reach Europe Square. Here was the municipal market, with stands offering all the goodness of the country. Georgia is eyeing the West and is a candidate for EU membership. In 2017 Georgians were granted a visa exemption for entry into EU countries. In honor of the achievement, the municipality closed the market square and renovated it, changing its name to "Europe Square". i
Queen Darjan's Palace
Up the hill leading to the church of Metekhi Palace stands the former summer palace of Queen Darjan. Above the cliff hangs a charming turquoise terrace overlooking the park
The falcon statue
In the Abnutobani neighborhood stands a statue of a falcon, which commemorates the founding of the city of Tbilisi. In the fifth century, King Gorgasali went out from his palace in the town of Matzcheta for a hunting trip in the forests. At this point he shot an arrow that hit a falcon and knocked it to the ground. The king sent his servant to bring the bird. To their surprise, they saw the falcon brewing in a small spring of hot water, then its wounds disappeared in front of their eyes, and it shook its wings and flew away. The king realized that these hot springs had health benefits, and decided to build his new palace next to it. Near the palace were also built houses for servants and vendors, and thus was established the city of Tbilisi, which means "warm place". i
Abanutobani Sulfur baths
One of the unique experiences in Tbilisi is dipping in the sulfur baths in the Abanutobani neighborhood. 7 baths and hammams were built above hot springs. The place is also beautiful from the outside, with domed buildings that remind us of Rachel's Tomb. Some baths have been here since the 12th century. King Gorgasaley built the first baths here and transferred them to aristocratic families who run the places to this day
The water contains sulfur in varying amounts from pool to pool, and it takes some time to get used to the smell of the water, with the aroma of rotten eggs. But after getting used to it we'd be relaxing for body and mind. The water at temperatures 30 to 40 degrees. At first, the hot water burns the body, but slowly we sink into the hot water and feel how every muscle in our body dissolves. I recommend arriving in the late afternoon when we are exhausted from walking around the city. Everyone who comes out of one of the baths declares "I was born again!". i
Private rooms are offered. Warm sulfur water also has medicinal properties for arthritis, gastrointestinal diseases, eczema and skin diseases. (Tip: Bring a clean bathrobe and towel from your hotel). i
Chreli Abano Baths
Adjacent to the baths stands a charming building whose façade is lined with porcelain tiles in shades of blue and light blue, creating stunning mosaics. This building is considered the most beautiful one in Tbilisi. The style of the building is reminiscent of the famous mosques in Uzbekistan. It offers hot baths in private rooms that are rented by the hour. It is the cleanest (and most expensive) bathhouse in this area. The Russian poet Alexander Pushkin dipped here, and wrote: "In the whole world there is no better place than these baths". i
A "Kissy Scrub" massage is also offered here. It is a vigorous rubbing of the skin with a rough glove, peeling the dead skin from the back and elbows and heels. The treatment is a bit painful, and the therapist ignores the sighs of pain. But after the treatment, we rest and relax in the small private bath. After the Kissy treating, I stroked my heels and elbows, and I felt like it was the baby skin of one of my grandchildren
Leghvtakhevi waterfall
Near the baths flows a small stream called Tazvkisis Tzkhali. It emanates from a beautiful waterfall that reminds us of the Nahal David waterfall in Ein Gedi. There is a path and promenade that lead there. "Leghvetakhevi" is fig in the Georgian language. I looked for fig trees there and did not find any. The waterfall water comes from the botanical gardens on the other side of the mountain
Meidani Market
At the southern end of the Metekhi Bridge is a large square, with a big clock stands by its side. Below the square, there is a tunnel and an underground passage about 150 meters long. Inside it, there is a market of Georgian antiquities, with copper plates, and many types of old Kantsi wine trophies, food and clothing
Shardeni Street
It is the largest promenade in the old city with restaurants and cafes with tables and chairs in the open air on the street, as well as nightclubs and bars. A picturesque street that at night lit by colorful and changing lighting displays. The street is named after Jean Sharden, a French traveler at the Caucasus in the 19th century
A statue of the God of wine
Drinking wine is part of the traditional folklore of Georgians. A local legend tells that when God distributed lands and territories to all the peoples, the Georgians were absent because they were busy at a wine-drinking party. When they finally arrived to get a space for living, there was no more land left. They said to God "But we were busy drinking and saluting for your sake". God answered them "If so, I will give you the land I kept for myself, and I will move to live in heaven". And so Georgia got the best and the most beautiful land on earth
At the intersection of Shardeni and Zioni streets stands a figurine of Tamada, the god of wine. He is sitting holding a Kantsi, which is a cap of wine made of a horn. An ancient Georgian custom is to serve wine in a hollow and bottomless cap so that they do not place the cap on the table before drinking all its contents
Nowadays the Master of Ceremonies of meals and drinks is called "Tamada", and he is the one who greets the guests and raises glasses for their lives
The Leaning Clock tower
A strange structure that looks like it was built by a child playing dice. It was designed and built by the artist Razo Gavriadze, who died last week, just when I visited his city. He used walls and stones from abandoned and ruined houses in Tbilisi
Every hour a small window is opened at the top of the tower, and a doll emerges from it. Every day at 7 pm, a few dolls come out of that window, showing the circle of life. The front of the tilted clock is considered the main point for Instagram photos in the city. Locals say the planner wanted to build the London Tower, and in the middle of construction he was debating whether it might be better to build the Pisa Tower, and this is what he came up within the end
Gallery 27
Housed in an old building on Betlemi Street, whose stairwell walls have colorful stained glass windows made about a hundred years ago. From the outside, it is difficult to see its beauty. We're going up old wooden stairs that creak under our feet. The rays of the sun that enter through the stained glass windows paint the stairs in bright colors that change according to the movement of the sun in the sky. This is a great place to buy handmade artwork
Jumah Mosque
During most of the Soviet era, there were two mosques in Tbilisi. The Juma mosque for Sunnis Muslims, and another mosque for members of the Shiite community. In 1951 the communist government demolished the Shiite mosque as punishment for violent incidents. The Sunni mosque opened its gates to Shiites who had no place to pray. Today it is the only mosque in the world that is common for the two communities, which hate each other elsewhere. Georgian law forbids the mosque's muezzin to use loud speakers that are disturbing the neighbors' rest. We're jealous of the Georgians because of this law
Museum of Illusions
A museum with a variety of distorted mirrors through which our figures are seen in different and strange forms. On the walls are drawn graphic illustrations that disrupt our sense of space, creating ridiculous situations. A must visit if you get in Tbilisi with children
Rike Park
When descending from anywhere in the Old City, we reach the Cora River. When we cross it we come into a spacious park. There are lots of beautiful fountains and ornamental pools, playgrounds for children, and a huge ground chessboard. On Saturday afternoons, we can hear more Hebrew than Georgian there. Many young Israelis lie on the grass, enjoy the view and the serenity, and exchange information and experiences about trips in Georgia. And of course, also keep up to date with politics from the country
Concert Center
Two metal-coated cylindrical structures are standing empty for years on the banks of the Cora River, opposite the Peace Bridge. They were built to be utilized as concert halls. But the rounded and long shape of the buildings turned out to be an acoustic disaster, so construction was halted. Currently, the municipality is considering using them as a cultural center. Locals call these structures "The Trumpets" because of their shape
The Holy Mountain
Tbilisi lies down a mountain ridge, where a number of public buildings and tourist sites. The easiest and most efficient way to get there is by cable car that its departing station located near the trumpet buildings.
Narikala Fortress
Levan Giorgadze
The fortress overlooking the city was built in the seventh century and destroyed in the wars. The walls we see today were built in the 15th century. We should wander there and feel a special atmosphere. The view is very beautiful. It is also recommended to visit near sunset, because then the view of the city downstairs is most beautiful, and the ancient buildings also get a reddish tinge
The Mother of Georgia
A huge statue made of aluminum, 20 meters high, about like a 7-story building. Established in honor of the 1,500th anniversary of the founding of Tbilisi. Located very close to the Narikala fortress, further the same hilltop. It is called "Mother Georgia", and the locals prefer to call it "Kartlis Deda". In her left hand, Mother Georgia holds a mug of wine, to welcome those who arrive with peaceful intentions. A symbol of the Georgians' hospitality. In her right hand she holds a sword, defending the city from bandits and evil men. Some say that this sword is aimed at Russia. The statue is so tall that it is difficult to be impressed by its beauty and power when standing next to it. So it is better to move away from a little or go down to the city
Mtatsminda Park
An amusement park up the mountain with an amazing view of the city below. The air is fresh. In the evening the wind caresses us, and the landscape expands our soul. In the park there are also restaurants and nightclubs and a Ferris wheel and amusement facilities, some of them rusty and squeaky. But the view from there is amazing. It is advisable to arrive by a Funicular train that ascends up the mountain. After the visit, I recommend getting off the train in the middle station, and from there to continue by foot
Turtle Lake
A small and beautiful lake located between the ridges of Mount Mtatsminda on the southwest side of the city. Many water turtles live on its shores. The lake is a center for water sports, which attracts many of the city's young people, and is also very popular with fishing enthusiasts. Its waters come from the Vararsis-Khebi River, which later flows into the Cora River
Tbilisi Botanical Garden
On the southern slopes of the sacred mountain they have planted a large and charming botanical garden that extends over more than 160 acres and grows 4,500 species of flora. In the north of the garden, a beautiful waterfall emerges. The garden is divided into themes according to plant sources, such as the Japanese or European garden. It also has a visitor center and amphitheater
Residential yard
As we stroll through the alleys of the old city and its streets, it is worth trying to enter one of the courtyards and be impressed by the old style of construction and living. These are buildings with 3 to 5 floors. Each family lived in one room. On the first floor and above it there are balconies from which they enter the rooms. Water and drainage did not reach the living areas. Therefore, only on the ground floor has toilets and showers shared by all the occupants of the yard. The kitchen was also shared on the ground floor. The "dining room" was the common yard, where all the families ate together
The Old City Wall
From Freedom Square comes Pushkin Street which descends towards the river. In its middle, we can see the remains of the ancient wall of Tbilisi. Three walls once surrounded Tbilisi. This wall surrounded the old city. Another wall surrounded the Narikala Fortress, and a third wall the Mount Tabor to the east
The new city
Zaza Nikolozishvili
Freedom Square
The square is the city center, on its outskirts is the town hall, and near it is the Art Museum and the executive building of the National Bank, as well as the Tourist Information Office. The parliament building was also located there. The square is surrounded by office buildings and luxury hotels. In the center is a huge pillar with a gilded statue weighing 27 tons
A local legend says that once upon a time there was a village here, where a cruel dragon settled near their water well. Every day the villagers would sacrifice an animal to a dragon, and while he was busy eating it, they managed to sneak into a well to pump water and bring it to their homes. Once they had no more lambs for sacrifice, and they made a fate of an exchange human victim. The princess ascended by fate. The gilded statue at the top of the obelisk depicts the moment when St. George defeated the dragon and saved the princess
The statue symbolizes the victory of good power over evil power. In Soviet times the square was called "Lenin Square", and on the top of the pillar stood a statue of Lenin. After the disintegration of the USSR, the Georgians removed the statue of Lenin and restored the statue of St. George and the Dragon. Today the Georgians are saying that the evil dragon symbolizes the Russia that conquered them
The Georgian Parliament
The parliament used to be located in Freedom Square, in the pink building where the municipal offices are now located. In 1914 Parliament was moved to an impressive building on Rustabeli street that exits the square. The building won first prize in a competition of beautiful public buildings. Here we can see and feel the transition from traditional society and state to a progressive and secular modern state
The Mushroom building
A huge office building whose roof built in the shape of 11 white-painted concrete domes. Each dome represents a province in Georgia. It's formally called "The Yusitsia" or "Legislation building". There is the Ministry of the Interior and some other government ministries, which are providing documents such as birth certificates, passports, and driving licenses, without the cumbersome bureaucracy that we know in Israel. Locals call this office complex the "Mushroom building" because of the shape of the roof. i
The President's Residence
Magnificent palace up the mountain overlooking the river. The roof of the building has a glass dome, reminiscent of the Bundestag in Berlin. Today the building is abandoned, because the current president, Salome Zourabichvili, said that the place is too grandiose for her taste, so she lives in a more modest house in the city. There are plans to turn the palace into a museum of the first Georgian Republic, founded in 1918, and lasted a few years. The large halls in the palace will be used for public conferences and state receptions
National Library
Building No. 3 of the National Library also has an Oriental Studies Hall. The gallery on the second floor has a large bookcase with Hebrew books, and books translated from Hebrew into Georgian. Most of them are modern books
The Hebrew wing was established with the support of the 'Beit Israel' organization and a generous donation from Itzik Moshe. This is not a tourist site, but a place designed to be used primarily by researchers. Israeli tourists are also allowed to visit there, but only individually and not in groups of travelers
Sameba Cathedral
The main church of Tbilisi stands out in the skyline of the city. The cathedral, which consists of 9 chapels, is the tallest in Georgia and is considered the third tallest church in the world. It is designed as an ancient cathedral, but in fact, it is relatively new, and its construction was completed in 2004
On the walls are many works of art and paintings of amazing icons. Visitors are expected to dress modestly. Women are not allowed to enter with cleavages and shorts. Nobody will stop them, but they are stared at so that they can understand on their own
One evening a year, Jews also are coming to this church. On the Saturday evening of Easter, the patriarch carries a Mass during which he gives an order to light a fire address. This fire is considered sacred because it was brought from Jerusalem (to me it is not clear how). Therefore, Jews also join this Mass
Dry bridge flea market
Beneath the far end of the Sarbriken Bridge is a fascinating flea market. Wandering there is like visiting a time capsule. Lots of used items and things from the Soviet period are seen there, such as medals and uniforms of the Russian army, Russian watches, fur hats, old cameras, and special tools. Many of the stands are also selling Babushka dolls, which is why it is also called the "Soviet market". The market is on the edge of Daedena Park
Orbeliani Flower Market
The flower market is opposite the old market hall and the Carrefour supermarket. The houses in the square have been recently renovated and the street signs are made of handmade tile mosaic. Thirteen large arches were renovated there, under which the flower stands that offer rose bouquets in every possible shade, daffodils with larger flowers than we are familiar within Israel, and huge white lilies
The Dezerter Bazaar
The open market located near the entrance to the main train station. Before noon, chefs from restaurants and hotels come to buy fresh ingredients for meals later in the day. The colors are celebrating. It's a pleasure to stand aside and try to soak up the special atmosphere. Tasting is free. I once "tasted" there more than a pound of cherries, wandering between the various stands
There are stands of all kinds, as well as clothes and souvenirs for tourists. This is the place to buy the most delicious and inexpensive original Churchkhela. The area of the clothing and its small stands and the style of hanging the clothes remind me of the flea market in Jaffa, but my wife claims that these are new clothes from the remnants of luxury stores. Shopping enthusiasts will be able to find real bargains here
National Museum
Presents the history of Georgia from the ancient settlement in the prehistoric era to the current days. Lots of interesting drawings and documents. The problem is that the explanations are in Russian only and there is no translation of the explanations into English (or Hebrew). However, It is worth ordering a tutorial
Underground Street Art
In Tbilisi there are many underground passages for crossing busy streets. Graffiti artists have turned the walls of the tunnels into their playgrounds. We can see their graffiti paintings in different styles. The illustrations change sometimes because graffiti artists paint new paintings on top of the old ones. In some tunnels, they placed small stands, as a kind of art gallery whose paintings hang on the walls of the tunnels. My two favorite tunnels are the tunnel at the end of Pushkin Street, and the tunnels below Heroes' Square
Dynamo Tbilisi Stadium
The home stadium of the football team is familiar to Israelis sports lovers. The Dynamo Tbilisi group has a Jewish aspect, thanks to its patron, the late Jewish oligarch Badri Patrekatsishvili, who also served as head of the Georgia Olympic Committee
Recreation areas in the new city
The Marjanishvili neighborhood is the trendy area in the new city. In the evening and at night, there are nightclubs and restaurants where mainly locals and tourists hang out. If we visit there, we'd also see huge abandoned buildings that were industrial plants in the Soviet era
The Vake neighborhood is like the "North Tel Aviv" of Tbilisi, where the middle and upper classes live are living at. It has modern and beautiful residences, along which are also luxury restaurants. At the end is the Mizuri Park artistic sculptures stand, and popular cafes for students and the younger generation
Fabrika Tbilisi
A cool entertainment area with cafes and bars and a studio for young artists. During Soviet times Fabrika was a large sewing factory that closed. Its three floors are decorated on the outside with very colorful and phosphorescent graffiti paintings. In the inside open courtyard, local young people gather in the evening to drink and spend time. It would be nice to join them or at least see them having fun
The Fabricapiti Street Art Festival is held annually in October. The factory and the streets around the Marjanishvili neighborhood are home to the brightest and most symbolic murals, and they are sold here very cheaply
Soviet street art
Throughout Tbilisi we can see an abundance of street murals and sculptures from the Soviet period that glorify its spirit. This is a special experience for tourists. Of the many possibilities, I will mention only three: a. The metro station of the University of Technology is decorated with murals and ceilings reminiscent of the beautiful train stations in Moscow. B. Georgia Congress and Exhibition Center. C. Sarbutalo Fire Station
Abandoned trains of Gostiridze
Near the Gostiridze railway station, about a hundred abandoned train wagons standing on the tracks. People invaded them for residential purposes. From the outside it looks very colorful, each wagon in different colors according to the taste of the tenant. We can freely enter the empty wagons. An interesting social experience
China town
It's a big mall on the edge of town with shops that are considered "weird". It sells products that the locals do not understand who is the fool would spend his money on, such as souvenirs from Turkmenistan and distant lands, various and strange clothes and costumes. The place is called Chinatown because most of the sellers there are Chinese, and because there are 2 Chinese restaurants there
Chronicles of Georgia Memorial
On a hill outside the city there is a park where 16 huge iron pillars, painted black, have been placed. The lower parts of the columns describing Biblical events from the New Testament. Above them are carvings of the kings of Georgia in the last 3,000 years, and other events from the history of Georgia, about 5 stories higher. The figure of King Georgian appears on several pillars. Also a display of Saint Nino, the woman who brought Christianity to Georgia. On the floor in front of some pillars, there are big metal surfaces engraved with hymns praising the kings of Georgia
A strong wind is always blowing on the hill, so we should strengthen our Kipah with another pin, or put it in our pocket
Tbilisi Sea
Near Tbilisi, a huge artificial lake was excavated, surrounded by beaches about ten kilometers long. There are beaches and picnic areas. For the convenience of bathers, kiosks and cafes and bars have opened there, that specialize in imported beers and self-production
Lisi Lake
A small lake near Sarbutalo with many cafes and benches. It is one of the most popular meeting places for Tbilisi youngsters for talks, chess games, political debates, drinking beer, and smoking all sorts of things
The Open Air Museum of Ethnography
Down a mountain in the Bagbi area there is a museum where old houses were built and assembled, dismantled from the ten counties of Georgia. Each district had a different building style, and also a different cooking area in its functionality. The houses are original from the 18th and 19th centuries. Some of the houses are built of wood and some of stone or mud. The houses are not divided into rooms. In the center of most houses was a place for a fire to heat the house, above which was a cooking pot dangling from the ceiling
In most homes, we see a sleeping area that is actually a stage measuring 2 meters by about 10 meters, on which a rug is placed. All the family members slept on it together, and sometimes about twenty people lived in such a house
The Ethnographic Museum also displays ancient workshops such as a winery and an oil press house
National Park of Tbilisi
A huge park about 20 km from the city center. It is located in the shady Sabaduri forest, which is a refuge from the heat in summer. It is one of the picnic destinations of Tbilisi residents. Suitable for couples and singles, but less for large groups. I like going to that forest… for rest
So far we have reviewed a selection of general tourist sites for travelers. Tbilisi also has Jewish heritage sites, which we reviewed in a separate article at this link
The director of the 'Beit Israel' organization in Tbilisi, Itzik Moshe, aspires to produce special classical music thematic tours as well. Georgia has been blessed with musical geniuses like world pianist Khatia Bumiatishvili and others. Israeli conductor Zubin Meta occasionally performs with Georgian fiddler Lisa Batiyashvili, and other talents. "Some Israelis fly to London for only one performance of a theater or opera concert," says Itzik Moshe. "If there is such a thematic tourism field in Israel, then why not run it here in Georgia as well? We have a lot to offer in the field of high musical culture". He also recruited the head of the culture committee in the Georgian parliament, Alyssu Bulkibedze, who is helping to develop this new tourism niche for Israelis as well
The author was a guest of the Tbilisi Municipality
Thanks to Lika Moshiashvili & Anna Matkaba, Hebrew-speaking local tour guides, revealing the places in this article