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The Jewish Traveler Guide to Prague

The Czech Republic stands out as one of the safest and most welcoming European countries for Jewish travelers, offering a unique opportunity to explore Jewish heritage without concern. In stark contrast to other popular European destinations where rising antisemitism has made travel increasingly unsafe, the Czech Republic remains a serene and secure destination. Many other countries, such as Turkey and Morocco, have become less accessible for Jewish tourists due to safety concerns and rising anti-Jewish sentiment. Recent events, including riots in Amsterdam and ongoing tensions in countries like the Netherlands, France, Belgium, and Norway, have caused Jewish tourists to rethink their travel plans. The growing threat of Muslim antisemitism in parts of Western Europe has led many to seek alternative destinations for their vacations.

Prague: A Safe Haven for Jewish Travelers

Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, provides a welcoming environment for Jewish visitors. During my walks through Prague, I saw no Palestinian flags or heard Arabic spoken on the streets, offering a rare sense of security. The Czech government has steadfastly refused to resettle Syrian refugees or allow the establishment of BDS (Boycott, Divestment, Sanctions) organizations, creating an atmosphere of safety and freedom for all travelers. Jewish tourists can confidently stroll through the streets of Prague, proudly wearing a kippah or Star of David necklace without fear of harassment. Rabbi Manis Barash, Chabad emissary in Prague, attributes this sense of security to the rich spiritual legacy of the Maharal and other renowned Jewish scholars who once lived in the city.

The Czech Republic: An Israel-Friendly Nation

The Czech Republic is one of the most Israel-friendly countries in the world, with an outstanding 80% approval rating for Israel among Czechs. This is a rare and remarkable stance, as the country has never voted against Israel in the United Nations or any other international forums. The historical connection between the Czech people and Israel runs deep, with many Czechs admiring Israel’s resilience and determination. I spoke with young locals in a Prague pub who expressed admiration for Israel’s fight for survival. They explained, “Look at Israel, a country smaller than ours, surrounded by enemies, yet it never surrenders. Instead, it fights for its existence. That’s how a nation should act.” This sentiment has helped build a strong bond between the Czech Republic and Jewish visitors, fostering a sense of gratitude and curiosity to explore the country’s Jewish heritage.

Prague: A Winter Wonderland for Jewish Travelers

Prague is an enchanting city year-round, but it holds a unique charm during the winter months. Despite the cold weather, winter in Prague offers a quieter and more intimate experience with fewer tourists, allowing Jewish visitors to fully absorb the city’s historical beauty. While the winter season often brings fewer crowds, the city remains a popular destination. My Arkia flight to Prague was fully booked, reflecting its enduring appeal as a top destination for Jewish travelers.

Must-Visit Jewish Heritage Sites in Prague

For Jewish travelers, Prague’s rich Jewish heritage is a primary attraction. The city is home to some of the most important Jewish heritage sites in Europe, especially in the historic Jewish Quarter of Josefov. This area was named after Emperor Joseph II, who granted Jews equal rights, leading to increased education and prosperity within the Jewish community. Over time, many Jews moved from the overcrowded Jewish Quarter to more modern neighborhoods. By the early 20th century, the Jewish Quarter had deteriorated, housing mostly poor and elderly residents. In response, the authorities demolished much of the area, preserving only the synagogues and improving public infrastructure.

Today, Josefov is a compact neighborhood filled with grand buildings, some dating back to the early 1900s. The Jewish Quarter’s historic synagogues and landmarks are just a short walk apart, making it easy for visitors to explore the area. Here are some of the must-visit synagogues in Prague:

The Old-New Synagogue: A Historical Gem

Built in 1270, the Old-New Synagogue is one of the oldest active synagogues in the world. This sacred space has been home to some of the most renowned Torah scholars, many of whom are studied by yeshiva students today. Among its most famous rabbis were the Maharal (Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel), the Shnei Luchot HaBrit (Rabbi Isaiah Horowitz), the Tosafot Yom Tov (Rabbi Yom-Tov Lipmann Heller), and the Nodah Be-Yehudah (Rabbi Ezekiel Landau). Walking through the Old-New Synagogue and its surroundings, it’s impossible not to feel connected to the great legacy of these rabbis, whose teachings continue to influence Jewish thought to this day.

Legends Surrounding the Old-New Synagogue

The Old-New Synagogue is steeped in fascinating legends. One of the most popular stories is that the synagogue’s foundation stones were brought from the ruins of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem. Another legend links the synagogue to the famous Golem of Prague, a clay figure created by the Maharal to protect the Jewish community. According to tradition, the remains of the Golem are hidden in the synagogue’s attic.

The name “Old-New Synagogue” itself is the subject of various myths. Some say it refers to the Hebrew words al tnai ("on condition"), suggesting that the foundation stones would return to Israel with the arrival of the Messiah. However, the historical explanation is simpler: The synagogue was originally called the “New Synagogue,” but as newer synagogues were built, it became known as the “Old-New Synagogue” to differentiate it from others in the Jewish Quarter.

Architecture

The synagogue’s Gothic architecture features a rectangular structure with a steep, towering roof. The interior includes six pentagonal vaults supported by two octagonal pillars, and the high ceiling creates an expansive, spiritual space. Twelve windows symbolize the 12 Tribes of Israel, while the floor is intentionally lower than the entrance, fulfilling the verse, "Out of the depths have I cried unto You, O Lord" (Psalm 130).

The eastern wall houses the Holy Ark, crafted from marble and adorned with a pointed arch and intricate stone decorations. Beside it stands the "Maharal's Chair," which remains off-limits to anyone. At the center of the synagogue is a raised bimah surrounded by an iron fence, used for Torah readings. Hanging above the bimah is a unique 17th-century Jewish community flag—a red banner with a yellow Star of David encasing a Jewish hat, framed by the words Shema Yisrael.

The Gothic Architecture of the Old-New Synagogue

The Old-New Synagogue, a Gothic architectural masterpiece, stands as one of Prague’s most important Jewish landmarks. Its rectangular structure features a steep, towering roof, and its interior is defined by six pentagonal vaults supported by two octagonal pillars. The high ceiling creates a vast, spiritual space, inviting contemplation and reverence.

The synagogue’s twelve windows symbolize the Twelve Tribes of Israel, adding to the spiritual significance of the space. Additionally, the floor level is intentionally lower than the entrance, fulfilling the verse from Psalm 130, "Out of the depths have I cried unto You, O Lord," symbolizing humility and connection to the divine.

At the eastern wall, the Holy Ark stands proudly, crafted from marble and adorned with a pointed arch and intricate stone carvings. Beside it is the "Maharal's Chair," a sacred seat that remains off-limits. The central bimah, surrounded by an iron fence, is used for Torah readings, while a 17th-century Jewish community flag—featuring a red banner with a yellow Star of David and the words Shema Yisrael—hangs above the bimah.

Over the years, additional features such as an entrance hall and a women’s section have been added. The small windows in the separating wall allow the sounds of prayer to resonate throughout the space, creating a harmonious atmosphere. The Old-New Synagogue continues to hold Shabbat services, maintaining an unbroken tradition of Jewish worship.

The Golem of Prague: A Legendary Protector

The Old-New Synagogue is famously associated with the legend of the Golem. According to Jewish folklore, the Maharal, the chief rabbi of Prague, created a clay figure and brought it to life using a note inscribed with the Ineffable Name of God. The Golem served as a protector for the Jewish community, defending against persecution and blood libels.

However, one Friday evening, the Maharal accidentally forgot to deactivate the Golem before the onset of Shabbat. The Golem went on a rampage through the streets until the Maharal intervened, deactivated it, and resumed his prayer. This incident led to the unique tradition of reciting the Mizmor Shir L’Yom HaShabbat prayer twice during Friday night services at the Old-New Synagogue, a custom that remains unparalleled worldwide.

The Golem's story has transcended Jewish folklore and is embedded in Prague’s cultural identity. Souvenir shops often sell figurines of the Golem, marked with the word emet (truth) on their foreheads, representing the idea of life being infused into the clay figure.

A Living Legacy: The Brit Milah Ceremony

During my visit, I had the privilege of witnessing a profoundly meaningful event: a Brit Milah (circumcision) ceremony for the grandson of the local Chabad emissary, a 17th-generation descendant of the Maharal. This touching ceremony reflected the continuity of Jewish life in Prague, with the baby named Shneur Zalman after the founder of Chabad, a 7th-generation descendant of the Maharal.

This event symbolized the strength and resilience of Jewish tradition, which remains unbroken despite centuries of persecution. Photos of Israeli hostages currently held in Gaza were displayed on the synagogue walls, inspiring heartfelt prayers for their safe return. The Old-New Synagogue stands as a beacon of hope, continuity, and the enduring spirit of the Jewish people.

The Spanish Synagogue: A Jewel of Moorish Architecture

The Spanish Synagogue is often regarded as the most beautiful synagogue in Prague, with its stunning exterior and breathtaking interior. The synagogue’s name is inspired by the architectural style of the Alhambra Palace in Spain. Inside, colorful marble tiles and intricate Moorish-style mosaics adorn the walls and ceiling, while gold decorations—totaling two kilograms—accent the synagogue’s lavish design.

Photo: Prague City Tourism

A grand chandelier shaped like a Star of David hangs from the central dome, adding to the synagogue's magnificence. The women's section features an organ, which is played during Jewish holidays by a non-Jewish musician who composed the Czech national anthem. However, the organ remains silent on Shabbat, in adherence to Jewish tradition.

Today, the Spanish Synagogue functions as the Museum of Bohemian Judaism and Holocaust museum, housing exhibits that showcase religious artifacts, Holocaust relics, and memorabilia related to Jewish soldiers in the Czech army. The synagogue also hosts displays honoring prominent Jewish families and individuals. Notably, the synagogue once welcomed famous figures like Franz Kafka and Sigmund Freud during Jewish holidays.

Outside the synagogue, a unique statue of Franz Kafka riding atop a headless figure serves as a tribute to Kafka’s literary work, further enriching the cultural significance of the site.

The Maisel Synagogue 

The Maisel Synagogue, named after Rabbi Mordechai Maisel, the wealthiest Jew in 16th-century Europe, is another iconic Jewish site in Prague. Rabbi Maisel’s wealth helped fund the Austrian emperor’s wars against the Ottoman Empire, and he was celebrated within the Jewish community for his philanthropy, including donations to the poor and the establishment of synagogues, yeshivas, and a Jewish hospital.

Originally built in 1592 as a private synagogue, the Maisel Synagogue was rebuilt after a fire destroyed the original structure. The current building reflects renovations from 1905 and features impressive architectural elements.

After the Holocaust, the Maisel Synagogue ceased to function as a house of worship and now serves as a Jewish museum. Its exhibits include a vast collection of parochet (Torah ark curtains) and mantles (Torah scroll covers). At the entrance, a virtual tour of Prague’s Jewish Quarter before its destruction offers visitors a powerful, immersive experience of the area’s rich history.

The Klausen Synagogue

The Klausen Synagogue, the largest synagogue in Prague's Jewish Quarter, is a significant historical and cultural landmark. Situated near the Old Jewish Cemetery, it derives its name from the German word Klaus, meaning "small building," reflecting its origins as a complex of three smaller structures. The synagogue was founded by Mordechai Maisel, who built it for members of the Chevra Kadisha (burial society), alongside a yeshiva where the teachings of the Maharal were studied.

The original synagogue complex was destroyed by fire in 1689, and the current Baroque-style structure was constructed in its place. Although the Klausen Synagogue is no longer open to visitors, it remains an important symbol of Prague’s Jewish history. During my previous visit, I had the chance to view an exhibition showcasing Jewish ritual items, such as those used for brit milah (circumcision), bar mitzvah, and weddings. Even though the synagogue is closed, it continues to stand as a vital part of the Jewish Quarter's rich heritage.

The Pinkas Synagogue

The Pinkas Synagogue, built in the 15th century by Rabbi Aaron Meshulam Horowitz, is named after his brother Pinchas. Today, it serves as a solemn memorial to the Holocaust victims from Prague and the surrounding regions. The synagogue’s historical significance is evident in the few remaining original features, including the ornate Torah ark and the central reading platform.

The synagogue walls are inscribed with the names of 77,297 Jewish men, women, and children from Bohemia who perished during the Holocaust. The overwhelming number of names makes it difficult to grasp the full magnitude of the tragedy. Notable names include the parents of former U.S. Secretary of State Madeleine Albright, as well as Franz Kafka's three sisters.

On the second floor, which once served as the women’s section, visitors will find the Children’s Drawings from the Terezín Ghetto exhibition. This collection features drawings by children imprisoned at the Terezín concentration camp, where Jewish families tried to maintain a semblance of normalcy by running schools and kindergartens. Despite their dire circumstances, the children expressed their hopes and fears through art, much of which is displayed on the synagogue walls. Tragically, nearly all the children who created these drawings perished soon after.

The synagogue’s basement houses a mikveh (ritual bath) and a water well, though these are currently closed to the public.

The Old Jewish Cemetery

Located between the Klausen Synagogue and the Pinkas Synagogue, the Old Jewish Cemetery is one of Europe’s oldest and most significant Jewish burial sites. The cemetery’s history dates back to 1439, with the last burial taking place in 1787.

Due to local restrictions, the Jewish community was not allowed to expand the cemetery, leading to the unique practice of “layered burials.” When space became scarce, new burials were conducted atop older graves, and gravestones were preserved and moved to the upper layers. In some sections, up to 12 layers of graves are stacked, creating a dense and elevated burial ground.

The narrow, winding paths of the cemetery are lined with gravestones of varying styles, from simple markers to elaborate monuments. Informational signs throughout the site offer insights into the lives of notable individuals buried there. One of the most visited graves is that of the Maharal (Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel), located near the fence, where many visitors pause to pray.

The Chevra Kadisha Building

Adjacent to the Old Jewish Cemetery stands the Chevra Kadisha Building, which originally served as the tahara (ritual purification) room. Over time, a second floor was added to house the offices of the Chevra Kadisha (burial society). Today, the building is a tourist attraction, with Hebrew signage adorning its exterior.

The Chevra Kadisha provides a vital grave-finding service for visitors seeking the burial sites of their ancestors. If you wish to request assistance, it is recommended to contact the Chevra Kadisha at least a week in advance to ensure the necessary arrangements are made.

Visiting the Jewish Quarter

The Old Jewish Cemetery, along with five historic synagogues in Prague’s Jewish Quarter, forms part of the “Jewish Museum,” which is managed by the Jewish community. Tickets to these sites can be purchased at a booth on Maiselova Street 38/15, near the Old-New Synagogue. Due to the popularity of these attractions, long lines are common, so it is recommended to purchase tickets online in advance.

The cost of a combined ticket for all the synagogues and the cemetery is 500 Czech korunas (approximately $20 USD). While this price is relatively high compared to other tourist attractions in the Czech Republic, it reflects the unique and historic nature of these sites. Last year, the Jewish Museum welcomed approximately 800,000 visitors, generating an estimated $16 million in revenue. Some local Jews have expressed curiosity about how this revenue is allocated within the community.

The Jerusalem Synagogue

The Jerusalem Synagogue is one of the newest and most breathtaking synagogues in Prague, situated outside the historic Jewish Quarter. Inaugurated on Simchat Torah in 1906, the synagogue was initially named "Jubilee Synagogue" in honor of Emperor Franz Joseph's silver jubilee. After the fall of the Iron Curtain, it was renamed "The Jerusalem Synagogue" after its location on Jerusalem Street. Locally, it is also referred to as the "Tsineiner Synagogue" after its benefactor.

Built in the Art Nouveau style with Moorish design elements, the synagogue's facade features a striking blue arch inscribed with the verse: "This is the Lord’s gate; the righteous shall enter through it." A large stained-glass window adorned with a Star of David sits at the center, surrounded by intricate gold-painted carvings.

Inside, the synagogue is equally magnificent. The prayer hall is designed with two rows of seating and a women's gallery above, supported by seven vibrantly painted arches inscribed with Hebrew verses. The Torah ark is intricately carved with the Tablets of the Law and grapevines, enhancing the synagogue's spiritual ambiance. The gallery railings and arches are exquisitely decorated, creating a harmonious blend of color and design. Sunlight streaming through the large stained-glass windows casts a kaleidoscope of hues across the hall, adding to the synagogue’s enchanting atmosphere.

Services are held here on Shabbat mornings (Shacharit), and the women’s gallery now houses an exhibition on the Jewish history of Prague and Moravia. The Jerusalem Synagogue is a true gem of Jewish architecture and history, well worth visiting, despite being located outside the city center.

The Chabad Center

The Chabad Center in Prague is a welcoming place for Jewish visitors seeking spiritual and community connections. The center offers daily prayer services with a minyan three times a day, and during the summer, multiple Shacharit services are often organized.

In addition to its prayer services, the Chabad Center operates The Grill, a kosher meat restaurant that provides delicious meals—a highly recommended dining option for visitors. Nearby, Chabad runs a kosher dairy restaurant and a pizzeria within walking distance, offering a variety of kosher dining options to suit every taste.

The Chabad Center also operates the Lauder Jewish School, which educates around 300 students, half of whom are non-Jewish. The center runs a seminary for girls, primarily attended by students from the United States, many of whom assist in organizing community events, especially during Jewish holidays.

For Jewish travelers, the Chabad Center provides practical services such as Hebrew-speaking guided tours of Prague and its surroundings, as well as arranging airport transfers with drivers who speak Hebrew.

The Jewish Community in Prague:

A Resilient and Flourishing Heritage

Prague’s Jewish community officially numbers around 2,000 members, though Rabbi Barash estimates the actual Jewish population to be closer to 6,000, with many unregistered locals. This reflects the legacy of the Holocaust, when Nazi authorities used Jewish community records to identify and deport Jews to death camps.

Since the fall of the Iron Curtain, Prague has become home to Jewish immigrants from former Soviet countries, with many settling in the city after the Ukraine war. Thousands of Jewish refugees sought safety in Prague, though some have since returned to Ukraine or made aliyah to Israel. Notably, young men fearing conscription often remain in Prague, and both the local Jewish community and Chabad have invested significant resources in assisting these refugees.

Prague is also home to around 300 Israeli medical students studying at local universities, further contributing to the city’s Jewish community. The community is currently led by Chief Rabbi David Peter, a native of Prague who studied Torah at Israeli yeshivas, including Machon Meir in Jerusalem. Rabbi Peter’s leadership continues to strengthen Jewish life in the city, providing spiritual guidance to both local Jews and visitors alike.

General Attractions in Prague: Must-See Landmarks and Experiences in the City of a Hundred Spires

Prague, often referred to as “The City of a Hundred Spires”, is a captivating and romantic destination, brimming with a wealth of entertainment, sightseeing, and cultural experiences. From historic landmarks to scenic views, the city is home to numerous general tourist attractions that are not specifically tied to Jewish heritage but remain an essential part of the Prague experience. Here are some top recommendations for anyone visiting the Czech capital:

Old Town Square: Prague’s Historic Heart

Photo: Prague City Tourism

The Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí) is one of Prague's most iconic landmarks and a traditional starting point for sightseeing tours in the city. The square is best known for housing the famous Prague Astronomical Clock (Prague Orloj), which has been functioning with precision since 1410. This remarkable timepiece features an astronomical dial that displays the relative positions of the sun, moon, Earth, and zodiac constellations.

Every hour on the hour, a major tourist attraction takes place when two small windows above the clock open to reveal twelve figurines moving around. The figurines are accompanied by a crowing rooster and the sound of ringing bells.

The clock tower is also one of the oldest structures in Prague, dating back to 1308. Visitors can take an elevator to the top floor for stunning panoramic views of the city’s rooftops and historic architecture from the observation deck.

In addition to the clock, the square also features several churches, including one that might look familiar to Disney fans. The design of this church inspired the iconic symbol of Walt Disney fairy tales and films, making it a noteworthy stop for visitors interested in architecture and history.

Charles Bridge: A Historic Bridge Connecting Old Town and Prague Castle

Photo: Prague City Tourism

The Charles Bridge (Karlův most) is one of Prague's most renowned landmarks, connecting the Old Town to Prague Castle across the Vltava River. This beautiful bridge is approximately 500 meters long and 10 meters wide, adorned with 30 statues of significant cultural figures.

At the center of the bridge stands a statue of a cross inscribed with the Hebrew words “Holy, Holy, Holy is the Lord of Hosts,” which is made of gold and is a significant historical feature.

Although I had visited Charles Bridge numerous times before, I discovered its true beauty during my visit at sunrise. In the winter, the sun rises around 8 AM, and I was fortunate enough to witness the first rays of sunlight bathe the bridge and statues in a pink glow, with their gold accents gleaming in bright red hues. Minutes later, the sky turned a breathtaking purple, reflecting off the waters of the Vltava River. It was a rare and extraordinary sight that I highly recommend witnessing.

If you are in Prague, make sure to plan a visit to Charles Bridge at sunrise to experience this captivating moment of serenity and beauty.

Charles Bridge: A Historic Bridge Connecting Old Town and Prague Castle

Prague Castle (Pražský hrad) is an expansive historic complex that includes royal palaces, the massive Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral, picturesque buildings, and museums, as well as the official residence of the Czech president. The castle is a significant historical site and a symbol of Czech heritage.

The vast castle grounds are free to explore, but visitors must purchase tickets to access specific buildings and museums within the complex. Among the highlights of Prague Castle are the Golden Lane, the Old Royal Palace, and St. Vitus Cathedral, with its stunning stained-glass windows and intricate architecture. Exploring the castle's beautiful gardens offers a peaceful escape with panoramic views of Prague’s skyline.

River Cruise: Relax and Enjoy Scenic Views of Prague

After a long day of exploring Prague’s landmarks, a relaxing river cruise along the Vltava River is the perfect way to unwind and take in the city’s stunning scenery. Many cruise options feature heated boats with transparent walls that provide exceptional views of Prague’s historic architecture, including Prague Castle, Charles Bridge, and the Old Town.

During these cruises, live commentary is provided through speakers, offering interesting facts about the surrounding landmarks. There are two main boarding points for these cruises: one located behind the Chabad Center and another near Charles Bridge, making it easy for visitors to hop on and enjoy a scenic tour of the city.

Other Fascinating Attractions in Prague and Czech Republic

Prague is just one of many fascinating destinations in the Czech Republic. The Czech Tourism Office, along with the Czech embassy in Israel, actively promotes tourism to the country, highlighting its rich cultural and historical offerings. As part of these efforts, they are planning to organize an educational press delegation trip in early 2025, which will showcase more of the country’s must-visit tourist sites.

If I am included in the delegation, I will gladly share additional insights and recommendations about the Czech Republic’s most exciting attractions with you.

I want to give special thanks to Prague City Tourism and to Dr. Vladimira Turkova, who accompanied me on my recent tour.

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